Jetted tub installation best practices:
This article discusses best installation practices for jetted tubs, soaking tubs, whirlpool baths and spas.
A list of kitchen and bath product manufactures and sources is included. This article series discusses current best design practices for kitchens and bathrooms, including layout, clearances, work space, and accessible kitchen and bathroom layout, clearances, turning space, grab bars, controls, etc.
We include advice on choosing and installing kitchen countertops, cabinets, and kitchen or bathroom flooring, sinks, and other plumbing fixtures and fixture controls such as faucets.
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The simplest and least expensive installation is into a two-wall or three-wall cove with factory-supplied skirts to conceal the mechanicals. However, many customers prefer the look of a drop-in model with a custom tile surround (see Figure 6-53).
With either type of installation, it is critical that the weight of the tub be supported by the base, not the lip. With larger tubs, often holding 50 to 80 gallons of water (at 8 pounds per gallon), the framing and subfloor may need to be reinforced to support the total weight of the tub, water, and bathers. A larger water heater may also be needed.
The most common method to support the tub bottom and dampen vibration is to set the tub onto several small mounds of wet plaster or mortar mix that compress and conform to the shape of the tub bottom as it is installed. A non shrinking grout such as Sonogrout 10K (Sonneborn) is best since it will not leave gaps as it dries.
Partially filling the tub with water until the mortar sets will ensure a good fit. Many contractors recommend using mortar even with units including “self-leveling” bases, which are designed to sit on a level subfloor with no additional support.
A few tubs are designed with individual bearing points molded into the bottom of the tub. With this type, it is important to make sure that the bearing points fall on joists or solid blocking. Solid bridging should also be added to help distribute the load to the surrounding joists.
With a custom-built surround, it is necessary to leave an access panel. Although access to the mechanicals is rarely needed, it should not require tearing apart the tile surround.
A simple approach is to tile the access panel, hang it with magnets, and caulk the joint between the access panel and surrounding tiles.
If access is necessary, the caulk can be slit with a knife and the panel removed.
Where the tub rim meets tile at a wall or the top of the
surround, use a flexible caulk rather than grout, which will
crack as the tub flexes, and expands and contracts with
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Question: jetted tub elevation for basement installation
6/16/2014 Anonymous said:
Is it necessary to raise a jet tub installed in the basement by 12 inches to allow for drainage?
You have two general approaches to drainage options when installing a jetted tub or any other plumbing system in a building basement:
IF the outlet of the plumbing fixture trap is sufficiently high above the point at which the fixture drain connects to a building drain then the fixture can drain by gravity. Sometimes we gain a little height at the fixture to make a drain line work by building a platform onto which the toilet, tub, or shower is installed, allowing it to drain by gravity. You need between 1/8" and 1/4" of slope per foot over the entire run of the plumbing drain.
IF the fixture outlet trap is too low to drain by gravity and building a platform is not practical, for example when the building drain exits high on the basement wall, you'll need to install an ejector pump and check valve so that drainage from the fixture can be lifted to the height of the building drain. If a toilet also empties into the ejector pump then a grinder pump is needed.
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