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Mobile ViewBUILDING INTERIORS ACOUSTICAL SEALANT CHOICES AGE of a BUILDING - how to determine AIR BYPASS LEAKS AIR LEAK DETECTION TOOLS AIR LEAK MINIMIZATION AIR POLLUTANTS, COMMON INDOOR AIR LEAK SEALING PROCEDURE AIR SEALING STRATEGIES ANIMAL ALLERGENS ANTI SCALD VALVES APPLIANCE EFFICIENCY RATINGS ARCHITECTURE & BUILDING COMPONENT ID ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN buildings ATTIC LEAKS, CONDENSATION & MOLD ATTIC VENTILATION BASEMENT CEILING VAPOR BARRIER BASEMENT HEAT LOSS BASEMENT LEAKS, INSPECT FOR BASEMENT WATERPROOFING BATH & KITCHEN DESIGN GUIDE BATHROOM VENTILATION BEST CONSTRUCTION PRACTICES GUIDE Best Interior Finish Practices BLOWER DOORS & AIR INFILTRATION BLOWER FAN CONTINUOUS OPERATION BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING BLOWN-IN INSULATION BOOKSTORE BRICK LINED WALLS BRICK VENEER WALL INSULATION BRICK VENEER WALL Loose, Bulged BRICK WALL DRAINAGE WEEP HOLES BUCKLED FOUNDATIONS due to INSULATION? BUILDING SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE BUILDING NOISE DIAGNOSIS & CURE CACTUS FUNGI / MOLD CAR MOLD CONTAMINATION CARPET DUST IDENTIFICATION CARPET MOLD CONTAMINATION CARPET PADDING ASBESTOS, MOLD, ODORS CARPET STAIN DIAGNOSIS CARPET & other STAIN TESTS CARPET TEST PROCEDURE CABINETS & COUNTERTOPS CARPETING & INDOOR AIR QUALITY CARPETING, SELECTION & INSTALLATION CASEWORK, CABINETS, SHELVING INSTALLATION CATHEDRAL CEILING INSULATION CATHEDRAL CEILING VENTILATION CEILING FINISHES INTERIOR CEILINGS, DROP or SUSPENDED PANEL CEILINGS, PLASTER TYPES CERAMIC TILE FLOOR, WALL CERAMIC TILE, ASBESTOS in? CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS CLOGGED DRAIN DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR COMBUSTION AIR for TIGHT buildings CONDENSATION or SWEATING PIPES, TANKS COOLING LOAD REDUCTION by ROOF VENTS CRAWL SPACES DEW POINT CALCULATION for WALLS DEW POINT TABLE - CONDENSATION POINT GUIDE DOORS, INTERIOR DRYWALL HAZARDS, CHINESE DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices DRYWALL MOLD RESISTANT EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS EFFLORESCENCE, Salts & White / Brown Deposits ELDERLY & VETERANS HOME SAFETY ELECTRICAL INSPECTION, DIAGNOSIS, REPAIR ENERGY SAVINGS in buildings ENGINEERED WOOD Flooring ENGINEERED WOOD Products EXTERIOR WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES FIBERGLASS INSULATION FIBERGLASS HAZARDS FIBERGLASS INSULATION MOLD FLAT ROOF MOISTURE & CONDENSATION FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP FLOODS IN buildings-mold FLOOR TYPES & DEFECTS FORMALDEHYDE HAZARDS FOUNDATION BULGE or LEAN MEASUREMENTS FOOTING & FOUNDATION DRAINS FOUNDATION CRACKS & DAMAGE GUIDE FOUNDATION WATERPROOFING FRAMING DAMAGE, INSPECTION, REPAIR FRAMING DETAILS for BETTER INSULATION FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING FROST HEAVES, FOUNDATION, SLAB FUNGICIDAL SPRAY & SEALANT USE GUIDE GAS DETECTION & MEASUREMENT GAS EXPOSURE EFFECTS, TOXIC GAS EXPOSURE LIMITS & STANDARDS GAS TEST PROCEDURES HEAT LOSS in buildings HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS HEAT LOSS INDICATORS HEAT LOSS PREVENTION PRIORITIES HEAT LOSS R U & K VALUE CALCULATION HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams HEATING COST SAVINGS METHODS HOT ROOF DESIGNS: Un-Vented Roof Solutions HOT WATER HEATERS HOUSEWRAP AIR & VAPOR BARRIERS HOUSE DOCTOR, how-to be HUMIDITY LEVEL TARGET ICE DAM PREVENTION Ice Dams: Comparing Two Houses INDOOR AIR QUALITY & HOUSE TIGHTNESS INDOOR AIR QUALITY IMPROVEMENT GUIDE INSULATION CHOICES INSULATION FACT SHEET- DOE INSULATION for GREENHOUSE or SOLARIUM INSULATION IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT INSULATION LOCATION - WHERE TO PUT IT INSULATION MOLD INSULATION R-Values & Properties INTERIOR FINISHES: BEST PRACTICES INTERIOR FINISHES: DRYWALL KIT HOMES, Aladdin, Sears, Wards, Others KITCHEN & BATH DESIGN GUIDE LIGHTING, EXTERIOR GUIDE LIGHTING, INTERIOR GUIDE LOG HOME GUIDE METAL LATH, PLASTER & STUCCO MIXING / ANTI-SCALD VALVES MOBILE HOME INSPECTIONS MOISTURE CONTROL in BUILDINGS MOLD in FOAM INSULATION, RESISTANCE MOLD INFORMATION CENTER Nanomaterials Hazards NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE NOISE, AIR CONDITIONER COMPRESSOR NOISE, DUCT VIBRATION DAMPENERS NOISE CONTROL for HEATING SYSTEMS NOISE CONTROL for FLOORS NOISE CONTROL for PLUMBING NOISE CONTROL for ROOFS NOISE, PLUMBING DRAIN DIAGNOSIS NOISE, PLUMBING DRAIN REPAIR NOISE, PLUMBING CHECKLIST NOISE, WATER HEATER NOISES, WATER PUMP ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE PASCAL CALCULATIONS PAINT FALURE, DIAGNOSIS, CURE, PREVENTION PLASTER PLASTER & BEAVERBOARD & DRYWALL PLASTER BULGES & PILLOWS PLASTER LATH, METAL PLASTER, LOOSE FALL HAZARDS PLASTER TYPE IDENTIFICATION PLASTER VENEER Best Practices PLASTER VENEER Best Practices RADIANT HEAT RADIANT HEAT Floor Mistakes to Avoid RADIANT HEAT TEMPERATURES RADIANT SLAB FLOORING CHOICES RADIANT SLAB TUBING & FLUID CHOICES ROOF VENTILATION SPECIFICATIONS ROT, FUNGUS, TERMITES ROT, TIMBER FRAME SAFETY HAZARDS & INSPECTIONS SAFETY: Elderly & Veterans Home Safety SAFETY for ELECTRICAL INSPECTORS SEARS KIT HOUSES SINKHOLES, WARNING SIGNS SINKING BUILDINGS SLAB CRACK EVALUATION SOUND CONTROL in buildings Splits in Structural Wood Beams STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING EXTERIORS STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING INTERIORS STAINS & FINISHES, INTERIOR STAIRS, RAILINGS, LANDINGS, RAMPS STONE CLEANING METHODS STRESS SKIN INSULATED PANELS STUCCO WAll FAILURES DUE TO WEATHER STUCCO WALL METHODS & INSTALLATION STUCCO OVER FOAM INSULATION STUCCO PAINT FAILURES SUMP PUMPS GUIDE SWEATING (CONDENSATION) on PIPES, TANKS THERMAL EXPANSION of MATERIALS THERMAL MASS in buildings THERMAL TRACKING Indicates Heat Loss TILE INSTALLATION DETAILS TRIM, INTERIOR INSTALLATION TRUSS UPLIFT, ROOF TRUSSES, Floor & Roof VAPOR BARRIERS & CONDENSATION in BUILDINGS VENTILATION in buildings VINYL Siding or PLASTIC Window ODORS in buildings VINYL CHLORIDE HEALTH INFO WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES WALL FINISHES INTERIOR WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR BUILDING WATER ENTRY in buildings WINDOWS & DOORS WINTERIZE A BUILDING WOOD Burning Heaters Fireplaces Stoves WOOD FLOOR DAMAGE More Information |
Hanging drywall: this article describes tips and tricks that help follow the best practices when installing drywall in buildings. InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers nor with topics or services discussed at this website.© Copyright 2012 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Information Accuracy & Bias Pledge is at below-left. Use page top links to major topics or use links at the left of each page to navigate within topics and documents at this website. Green links show where you are in a document series or at this website. Drywall Types & Installation Procedures This article includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons. Photos at page top and left are provided courtesy of Eric Galow, Galow Homes. These pictures illustrate drywall installation by professionals. For speed, efficiency and profit, drywall installation is specialized, often using different crews to hang the rock from those who tape, finish, and paint the surface (shown below). As described in the book, Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction Chapter 5, Interior Finish: Interior finishes are the most visible and, on a square-foot basis, often the most expensive components in a house. However, since many of these products and materials are marketed directly to consumers, they are often not well understood by builders and designers. Making good decisions on such finish materials as flooring, carpeting, and lighting fixtures can make a critical difference to homeowner satisfaction. The builder or designer can play a key role in helping the homeowner choose finishes that are well-suited to the intended use, as well as providing the structural support and prep work the materials require for good performance. Single-layer, 1/2-inch drywall is the default wall and ceiling treatment in most residential construction. Done well, it goes largely unnoticed. Nail pops and cracks, however, are very conspicuous and remain the leading cause of builder callbacks. With wet or poor-quality framing, there are bound to be problems in the drywall finish. With dry lumber and proper detailing, however, drywall problems can be kept to a minimum. Types of DrywallDrywall consists of a gypsum core covered by two layers of treated paper. The long sides are tapered for easy finishing with joint compound. The short or “butt” ends are not tapered. Also see CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS. Standard Drywall Properties
For a stiffer wall and better sound deadening, use 5/8-inch drywall or a double layer of 1/2-inch drywall, with all joints staggered between layers and the second layer glued to the first for best performance. The 3/8-inch panels are useful for covering existing walls and ceilings in remodeling. One quarter- inch board, installed in layers, is useful for curves. Special 1/4-inch bending-type drywall has the smallest bending radius. Fire-Resistant Drywall SpecificationsFire-code drywall has special additives, including glass fibers, to increase its fire resistance. Residential building codes typically require Type X 5/8-inch fire-code drywall with a one-hour rating for party walls, ceilings over furnaces, and common walls between living space and garages. Moisture-Resistant Drywall
The material is denser and less rigid than regular drywall, so it is prone to sag on ceilings unless the framing is 12 inches on-center or less. Also it will fall apart, like regular drywall, if it gets soaked. For that reason it should not be used as a tile substrate in any application where it might get wet. Photo courtesy of Eric Galow, Galow Homes. Mold-Resistant DrywallThis is a relatively new product that uses an inorganic fiberglass matt instead of paper facing, since the paper facing readily supports mold growth. Panels are available with the fiberglass matt on one side or two. Glass fibers in the gypsum core add strength as well. Details about mold resistant drywall and an OPINION about its effectiveness are found at MOLD RESISTANT DRYWALL. Installation Procedures for Drywall: Best Practices GuideTo prevent problems, use good quality framing lumber and follow these recommendations:
Framing Specifications for Successful Drywall InstallationDrywall should be installed over straight and level framing. If the framing is excessively wet, it will crack the drywall and cause nail pops as it shrinks. If the framing is twisted, bowed, or out of alignment, it will cause weak points in the surface and possible cracking. Moderately bowed studs can be fixed by cutting a kerf at mid height, straightening the stud, and scabbing a section of 1x4 or plywood on either side. Repair or replace problem studs before installing the drywall. On ceilings, it is common practice in some parts of the country to install 1x3 furring strips at 16 inches on-center perpendicular to the ceiling joists before installing the drywall. The furring is shimmed to even out irregularities in the ceiling joists and creates a more stable substrate for the drywall with less chance of cracking. Also, the furring provides a wider nailing surface for hanging drywall. Framing Spans Recommended for Ceiling & Wall Drywall InstallationOn walls and ceilings, it is best to install drywall perpendicular to the framing. This ties together more framing members and provides greater racking strength. On walls, 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch drywall can span up to 24 inches whether it is installed parallel or perpendicular to the framing. On ceilings, 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch drywall can span 24 inches only if it is installed perpendicular to the joists and supports less than 1.3 pounds per square foot (psf ) of insulation. Otherwise, 16-inch on-center spacing is recommended. With latex spray textures or airless spraying of latex paints, perpendicular installation over 16-inch on center framing is recommended to prevent sagging. Guide to the Adhesive Installation Method for DrywallAnother way to minimize nail and screw pops is to minimize the number of fasteners. Gluing the drywall to the studs with construction adhesive allows the installer to eliminate 75% of the fasteners (Table 5-2). Using adhesives also helps to even out minor irregularities in the framing and results in a much stronger and stiffer wall. Use a construction or drywall adhesive that meets ASTM C557.
Apply a 3/8-inch bead down the center of each stud or joist, stopping about 6 inches from each end. Where two drywall panels meet, apply two 3/8-inch beads so each panel gets full contact with adhesive. No adhesive is needed at inside corners, top and bottom plates, or at bridging, diagonal bracing, or other miscellaneous framing. Also do not use adhesive over polyethylene sheeting or insulation batts with paper flanges stapled over the stud faces. To ensure a good bond, drywall manufacturers recommend pre bowing the drywall by stacking several sheets face up with a 2x4 under each end. Left overnight, this will leave a permanent bow, forcing the center of the sheet tight against the adhesive (except in very humid weather, when the boards may remain flexible). Push drywall panels into the adhesive with hand pressure along joists or studs. Do not apply more adhesive than can be covered in 15 minutes, or it may skin over. Allow the panels to dry at least 48 hours before adding joint compound or skim coating. How to Install Floating Corners to Avoid Drywall Cracks
Guide to use of Control Joints to Avoid Drywall CracksWhile control joints in drywall are not commonly used in residential construction, they are a good idea in surfaces over 30 feet long or at changes in floor level, such as stairway walls. On a stairway wall, locate the control joint at the top of the first-floor wall where the top plate meets the ceiling joists. The 1/4-inch joint can be painted with the wall and left as a reveal. Another option is to omit the metal control joint and simply leave a small gap between the upper and lower drywall, and cover the joint with wood trim. Installing Drywall Corner BeadOutside corners fashioned with metal corner bead are also prone to cracking and nail pops. To avoid problems, do not nail into the top plate, and leave a gap at the bottom of the wall to accommodate any settling. Nail with drywall nails at 9 inches on-center on both sides of the corner, with nails opposing each other. Newer “mud-on” or “tape-on” corner beads are less prone to edge cracking than traditional metal corner beads and, with no nails, eliminate nail popping. The corners are metal or plastic and are held in place by paper or vinyl flanges embedded in joint compound. Some of the vinyl corner beads can also be installed with spray-on contact cement. In general, tape-on corner beads require fewer coats and less joint compound than traditional metal corner beads, speeding up the finishing process. Method for Installing Drywall Curves on Radiused WallsFor radiused walls, the easiest approach is to use two layers of1/4-inch drywall, preferably the “high-flex” type, if available. If not available, it is possible to wet the side of the drywall that will be compressed (the inside of the curve) with a garden sprayer or short-nap roller. Then stack the boards with wet face to wet face and cover with plastic sheeting. After an hour, install the panels with their long dimension across the studs. Minimum bending radii are shown in Table 5-3.
Procedures for Taping and Finishing Drywall: Best Practices
Photo at left showing drywall expert Ron taping a cathedral ceiling is provided courtesy of Eric Galow, Galow Homes. The cooler and more humid it is, the longer it will take ready-mixed joint compounds to dry. If necessary, use supplemental heaters and provide adequate ventilation to remove excess moisture. Too much moisture can soften and weaken the bond between the drywall and the paper facing. Conversely, if the weather is too hot and dry, paper drywall tape may not bond well and joints may experience excess shrinkage and cracking. Mesh vs. Paper Tape Choices for Drywall SeamsMesh tape is easier to apply but not as strong as paper tape. It should never be used in inside corners, where it can tear or be cut by the trowel. However, if combined with setting-type compound, mesh tape is nearly as strong as paper tape and can produce a quality job. Mesh tape is also very useful for repairing cracks in older plaster walls or ceilings. Joint Compound Types for Drywall Installations
While this is acceptable, according to U.S. Gypsum guidelines, installers can produce stronger joints less prone to cracking by using special setting-type compounds for the first coat to embed the tape and corner beads and patch any big holes. Do not use setting-type compound on nail or screw indents. Photo at left showing drywall expert Ron taping a cathedral ceiling is provided courtesy of Eric Galow, Galow Homes. Setting compounds are mixed on-site and set up by a chemical reaction, rather than evaporation of the water. They dry rock-hard and do not shrink. Setting times range from 20 minutes to several hours, and the compound can be recoated as soon as it sets, rather than the next day as is typical for ready-mix compound. Durabond® 90 is the most commonly used. A new type of setting-type compound from USG, called Easysand®, overcomes the chief liability of setting-type compounds—that they are nearly impossible to sand. For nail and screw indents, and the fill and topping coats on seams, most contractors use premixed all-purpose compound; although special topping compounds are available. Premixed compound should be stored, applied, and allowed to dry at between 55°F and 70°F, preferably over 60°F. If allowed to freeze, manufacturers claim that readymix compound can be reused if thawed and remixed thoroughly with an electric mixer, but it is probably wiser to just throw it away. Specialty Drywall Trims Used with Windows & DoorsDrywall window and door trim, acute and obtuse angles, bullnose corners, and arches have been greatly simplified by the introduction of specialty drywall trims and accessories (see Buy Interior Finish Product Resources). Most profiles are available in metal and plastic in either nail-on or tape-on styles. Installing Drywall at Off–90 Degree AnglesStandard nail-on or tape-on corner bead provides the strongest 90-degree corner. However, for acute or obtuse outside corners—for example, around skylight wells—you are better off with flexible tape-on corner trims reinforced with metal or plastic that can be set at any angle. These help at inside corners as well, such as between intersecting roof planes, where standard paper tape tends to leave a wavy line. How to Make Rounded Drywall Corners
For miters and three-way corners, some suppliers provide special trim pieces. If these are not available, the trim will need to be miter-cut with a carbide or abrasive blade, depending on the trim material. Drywall Details for Windows and Doors
How to Construct Drywall Arches
-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Resources: Manufacturers, Industry Associations, & Sources of Indoor Wall Materials, Flooring, Carpeting, Lighting, Sound Control MaterialsDrywall Trims and AccessoriesClinch-On Products, A Deitrich Metal Framing Company www.dietrichindustries.com Nail-on and clinch-on galvanized metal corner beads Con-Form International/Strait Flex www.straitflex.com Strait-Flex fiber-composite mud-on corner bead for inside and outside off-90 degree angles Drywall Systems International www.no-coat.com No-Coat prefinished drywall tapes for inside and outside corners, off angles and bullnose trims Flex-Ability Concepts www.flexc.com Curved metal top and bottom plates for curved wood or metal stud walls Grabber Construction Products www.grabberman.com Drywall screws, corner clips, and fiberglass mesh tapes Insta Arch Corp. www.instaarch.com Galvanized steel preformed and custom arches for drywall National Gypsum Co. www.nationalgypsum.com ProForm tapes and finishing compounds Pla-Cor www.pla-cor.com ABS corner trims, bullnose, 3-way corner caps, and flexible arches Phillips Manufacturing Co. www.phillipsmfg.com Metal and vinyl corner beads, bullnose trim, and flexible bullnose and angled arch trim Trim-Tex www.trim-tex.com Vinyl drywall beads, flexible arch beads, and finishing accessories U.S. Gypsum Beadex and Sheetrock-brand tape-on metal corner beads and trims. Complete line of drywall finishing compounds Vinyl Corp., A Deitrich Metal Framing Company www.vinylcorp.com Full line of vinyl beads and trim Industry & Trade Associations for Carpeting, Lighting, Finishes, Wood Products, Flooring, Painting & DecoratingAmerican Lighting Association www.americanlightingassoc.com Association of the Wall and Ceiling Industries www.awci.org Carpet and Rug Institute (CRI) www.carpet-rug.org Drywall Finishing Council www.dwfc.org Forest Stewardship Program www.fscus.org FloorFacts www.floorfacts.com The Gypsum Association www.gypsum.org National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Association (NOFMA) www.nofma.com National Wood Flooring Association www.woodfloors.org Painting and Decorating Contractors of America www.pdca.org Smartwood/Rainforest Alliance www.smartwood.org -- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Questions & Answers regarding this articleQuestions & answers about the best methods used to install or hang drywall . Ask a Question or Search InspectAPediaHTML Comment Box is loading comments...
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