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InspectAPedia ® Home EXTERIORS of buildings ADHESIVES, EXTERIOR CONSTRUCTION AGE of a BUILDING - how to determine ALGAE, FUNGUS, LICHENS, MOSS ARCHITECTURE & BUILDING COMPONENT ID ATTIC CONDENSATION CAUSE & CURE BARK SIDE UP on DECKS & STEPS BASEMENT WATERPROOFING BEST CONSTRUCTION PRACTICES GUIDE BRICK VENEER WALL Loose, Bulged BRICK WALL DRAINAGE WEEP HOLES BOOKSTORE - EXTERIORS CAULK GUN TYPES, CHOICES CAULKS & SEALANTS, EXTERIOR CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR DECK & PORCH CONSTRUCTION DECK COLLAPSE Case Study DECK FINISHES COATINGS PRESERVATIVES DECK FLASHING LEAKS, ROT Case Study DEFINITIONS of ENGINEERED WOOD OSB LVL etc DRYWELLS, FRENCH DRAINS for FLAT SITES EARTHQUAKE DAMAGED FOUNDATIONS EIFS & STUCCO EXTERIORS ENGINEERED WOOD Flooring ENGINEERED WOOD Products EXTERIOR WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES ADHESIVES, EXTERIOR CONSTRUCTION CAULKS & SEALANTS, EXTERIOR FIBER CEMENT SIDING FLASHING MEMBRANES PEEL & STICK FLASHING for METAL ROOFS FLASHING ROOF-WALL SNAFU FLASHING WALL DETAILS GLUES ADHESIVES, EXTERIOR CONSTRUCTION HOUSE PARTS, DEFINITIONS HOUSEWRAP AIR & VAPOR BARRIERS HOUSEWRAP / SHEATHING WRAP HOUSEWRAP INSTALLATION DETAILS HOUSEWRAP PRODUCT CHOICES HOUSEWRAP at SILLS, SOLES, TOP PLATES LOG HOME GUIDE PAINT / STAIN SELECTION & PROCEDURES RAIN SPLASH-UP SIDING DAMAGE SIDING TYPES, INSTALLATION, DEFECTS SIDING, ALUMINUM SIDING, ASBESTOS FIBER CEMENT SIDING ASPHALT ROOF SHINGLES on WALLS SIDING ASPHALT SHINGLE or SHEET SIDING DAMAGE by SPLASHBACK SIDING EIFS & STUCCO SIDING, FIBER CEMENT SIDING HARDBOARD SIDING, LOG SIDING STEEL SIDING VINYL SIDING, WOOD PRODUCT CHOICES SIDING, WOOD INSTALLATION SIDING WOOD, FAILURES OVER FOAM BOARD SIDING WOOD, FLASHING DETAILS SIDING WOOD SHINGLE INSTALLATION STONE CLEANING METHODS STUCCO WAll FAILURES DUE TO WEATHER STUCCO WALL METHODS & INSTALLATION TRIM, EXTERIOR CHOICES, INSTALLATION VINYL SIDING INSTALLATION WOOD SHINGLE INSTALLATION WOOD SIDING PRODUCT CHOICES WOOD SIDING INSTALLATION WOOD SIDING FLASHING DETAILS WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR FIBERGLASS INSULATION FIBERGLASS HAZARDS FIBERGLASS INSULATION MOLD FLASHING, ASPHALT SHINGLE VALLEYS FLASHING, CHIMNEY Mistakes & Leaks FLASHING, CLAY TILE ROOFS FLASHING MEMBRANES PEEL & STICK FLASHING for METAL ROOFS FLASHING ROOF WALL DETAILS FLASHING ROOF-WALL SNAFU FLASHING SIDING DETAILS FLASHING WALL DETAILS FLASHING WINDOW DETAILS FLASHING WOOD ROOF DETAILS FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP FOOTING & FOUNDATION DRAINS FOUNDATION CRACKS & DAMAGE GUIDE FOUNDATION WATERPROOFING GUTTERS & DOWNSPOUTS HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams HOUSE PARTS, DEFINITIONS HOUSEWRAP / SHEATHING WRAP HOUSEWRAP INSTALLATION DETAILS HOUSEWRAP PRODUCT CHOICES HOUSEWRAP at SILLS, SOLES, TOP PLATES HUMIDITY LEVEL TARGET ICE DAM PREVENTION INDOOR AIR QUALITY & HOUSE TIGHTNESS INSECT INFESTATION / DAMAGE LEAD POISONING HAZARDS GUIDE LEAD TEST KIT for HOME USE LEED GREEN BUILDING CERTIFICATION LOG HOME GUIDE LIGHTNING PROTECTION MOISTURE CONTROL in BUILDINGS MOISTURE CALCULATIONS MOISTURE PROBLEMS: CAUSE & CURE MOLD DETECTION & INSPECTION GUIDE MVOCs & MOLDY MUSTY ODORS ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE PAINT & STAIN GUIDE, EXTERIOR PAINT FALURE, DIAGNOSIS, CURE, PREVENTION PAINT FAILURE DICTIONARY PAINT SURFACE PREPARATION PAINTING MISTAKES PORCHES & Sunrooms PORCH CONSTRUCTION & SCREENING RAILINGS, DECK & PORCH RAILINGS, STAIRWAY RETAINING WALL DESIGNS, TYPES, DAMAGE RETAINING WALL GUARD RAILINGS ROOF ARCHITECTURAL STYLES - PHOTO GUIDE ROOF CLEANING RECOMMENDATIONS ROOF COLOR RECOMMENDATIONS ROOF DORMER TYPES - PHOTO GUIDE ROOFING DIAGNOSIS INSPECTION & REPAIR ROT RESISTANT LUMBER ROT, TIMBER FRAME ROT, TIMBER ASSESSMENT SEARS KIT HOUSES SEPTIC & CESSPOOL SAFETY SHEATHING, FIBERBOARD SHEATHING, Gypsum board SHEATHING, OSB SHEATHING, Plywood SHEATHING, FOIL FACED - VENTS SIDING TYPES, INSTALLATION, DEFECTS SIDING, ALUMINUM SIDING, ASBESTOS FIBER CEMENT SIDING ASPHALT ROOF SHINGLES on WALLS SIDING ASPHALT SHINGLE or SHEET SIDING DAMAGE by SPLASHBACK SIDING EIFS & STUCCO SIDING, FIBER CEMENT SIDING HARDBOARD SIDING STEEL SIDING VINYL SIDING, WOOD PRODUCT CHOICES SIDING, WOOD INSTALLATION SIDING WOOD, FAILURES OVER FOAM BOARD SIDING WOOD, FLASHING DETAILS SIDING WOOD SHINGLE INSTALLATION SINKHOLES, WARNING SIGNS SOUND CONTROL in buildings STAINS on & in BUILDINGS, CAUSES & CURES STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING EXTERIORS STAIN DIAGNOSIS on BUILDING INTERIORS STAINS & FINISHES, INTERIOR STAINS on INDOOR SURFACES: PHOTO GUIDE STAINS & Thermal Tracking STAIN DIAGNOSIS on ROOFS STAIN DIAGNOSIS on STONE STAIRS, RAILINGS, LANDINGS, RAMPS STONE CLEANING METHODS STRESS SKIN INSULATED PANELS STRUCTURAL DAMAGE PROBING STUCCO WAll FAILURES DUE TO WEATHER STUCCO WALL METHODS & INSTALLATION STUCCO OVER FOAM INSULATION STUCCO PAINT FAILURES SURFACE GRADING, SITE DRAINAGE TERMITES TEST KITS for DUST, MOLD, PARTICLE TESTS Thermal Expansion Cracking of Brick THERMAL EXPANSION of HOT WATER THERMAL EXPANSION of MATERIALS THERMAL IMAGING, THERMOGRAPHY THERMAL IMAGING MOLD SCANS THERMAL MASS in BUILDINGS TRIM, EXTERIOR CHOICES, INSTALLATION TRIM, INTERIOR INSTALLATION TRAPPED MOLD BETWEEN WOOD SURFACES TRUSS UPLIFT, ROOF TRUSSES, Floor & Roof VAPOR BARRIERS & CONDENSATION in BUILDINGS VENTILATION in BUILDINGS VINYL CHLORIDE HEALTH INFO VINYL SIDING VINYL Siding or PLASTIC Window ODORS Volatile Organic Compounds VOCs WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES WALL FINISHES INTERIOR WALL CONSTRUCTION BARRIER vs CAVITY WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR BUILDING WATER ENTRY in buildings WIND ENERGY SYSTEMS WIND TURBINES & LIGHTNING WINDOWS & DOORS WINTERIZE A BUILDING WOOD, COAL STOVES & FIREPLACES WOOD STOVE SAFETY ZONE DAMPERS ZONE VALVES More Information |
This article series discusses best practices construction details for building exteriors, including water and air barriers, building flashing products & installation, wood siding material choices & installation, vinyl siding, stucco exteriors, building trim, exterior caulks and sealants, exterior building adhesives, and choices and application of exterior finishes on buildings: paints, stains. Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman. Exterior Building Adhesives & Glues: Product Choices, Installation DetailsSee CAULK GUN TYPES, CHOICES, also see CAULKS & SEALANTS, EXTERIOR. Some caulks and sealants also act as glues or adhesives. Adapted/paraphrased with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Steven Bliss. No exterior millwork should rely entirely on adhesives, since no glue is 100% waterproof, and any adhesive can fail with enough moisture cycling and movement in the wood. It is always wise to back up an exterior glue joint with mechanical fasteners, design the woodwork to shed water, and protect it with a good paint job. Still, there are several good options for gluing exterior work that should last indefinitely if well maintained (see Table 1-14) [click to enlarge].
There are several factors to consider in selecting a glue. For exterior woodwork, the biggest concerns are typically water resistance, strength, and cleanup. Working temperatures, clamping time, and gap filling abilities may also be important, depending on the specific job and conditions. A glue’s water resistance is classified as Type I or Type II. A Type I designation indicates that the glue bond can survive repeated submerging in boiling water. Type 1 glues are used for laminating structural timbers such as glulams. The most common Type 1 glue, resorcinol, has strict temperature and clamping requirements and is rarely used on residential job sites. Type II glues must maintain their bond after being soaked for four hours and then dried three successive times. These are suitable for all but the most punishing residential applications. Guide to Type II Yellow Glue on Building Exteriors
In our photo (left) the yellow Titebond™ glue (at left in the photo) is suitable for the applications discussed here. While Elmers™ also makes a yellow Type II glue, do not use the white "school glue" shown in the center of our photograph for construction purposes. White school glue lacks water resistance and strength and won't work outdoors. Similar to the older style white glue, yellow glue is formulated with a higher solids content to make it less runny and with other additives to make it set up quicker. Clamp time is about one hour. Any squeeze-out is simple to remove with a damp rag. Once the glue dries, however, it will resist paint and stain and needs to be scraped or sanded off. In general, yellow glue should not be applied in temperatures below 50°F or allowed to freeze before it cures. In freezing weather, store the glue indoors, since a couple of freeze-thaw cycles may ruin the glue. For exterior work subjected to moderate weather exposure, Type II yellow glue is a good option. Guide to Polyurethane Glues and Adhesives on Building Exteriors
For wood that has less than 10% moisture content or appears dry, you should moisten one of the two surfaces being joined with a sprayer or damp cloth and apply a thin coating of glue to the other. Polyurethane bonds well to wood, stone, most metals (not stainless steel), and ceramics, as long as at least one of the surfaces being glued is porous. Polyurethane foams up as it cures, expanding to three to four times its original size and filling any small gaps in the joint. But unlike epoxy, the filled gaps have no strength. Clamping time is one to four hours, depending on the specific formulation. For maximum strength, clamp for 24 hours. Because of its tenacious grip, you should protect any materials or finished surfaces from drips and protect your hands with latex gloves, as the glue cannot be removed except by abrasive cleansers. If wet glue drips onto a finished surface, wipe with a dry cloth, since anything wet will activate curing. After the glue has dried, scrape away the squeeze-out with a sharp chisel and sand any residue. The glue dries to a brownish tan, which can be painted. OPINION-DJF: we really enjoy almost everything about Gorilla Glue (photo above), and have used it very extensively in both repair (it will expand and secure a wobbly chair leg) and in construction indoors and out. Our favorite indoor project using this glue was building site-built built-up custom curved trim. Our photos (below) show the an in-process stage of constructing custom wood trim in a home as well as the finished result after sanding and finishing.
We ripped and planed a mix of Brazilian cherry and white oak into narrow strips that were bent to shape, glued, and clamped in place. Critical was to use enough wedges and later clamps to be sure that our wood strips remained closely aligned with no open gaps during drying. We cut away the flue overflow after it dried, by hand, using a sharp chisel. A final sanding with an orbit sander and a router to round the edge of our curved trim/stair was all that it took to produce a beautiful end product. What's not to enjoy: working wearing protective plastic gloves proved impossible - as soon as the gloves got sticky with glue it was impossible to pick up anything. Working bare-handed means you will have glue on your hands for several days. Washing the dishes in the kitchen sink every day will speed wearing off of this ooky mess. Continuing from from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction: Hot Melt Glue Uses in ConstructionUsing Epoxy Glues and Adhesives on Building Exteriors
epoxy is comparable in strength and water resistance to polyurethanes, requires minimal clamping, and can fill gaps with little loss of strength, making it an ideal choice for less-than-perfect carpentry joints. In our photo (left) an example of Loctite™ Epoxy is on the right. As a two-part system—with various hardeners to choose from and additives such as fillers to improve gap filling—epoxy is also the most complicated and costly approach. Once the resin and hardener are mixed, the working time ranges from about 10 minutes to an hour, depending on the ambient temperature and whether a slow or fast hardener is used. Heat speeds up the curing, so a slow hardener is recommended in hot weather, a fast hardener in cold weather. It is important to mix the correct proportions and mix thoroughly or un reacted resin or hardener may remain in the cured epoxy. For best results, use a disposable brush to coat both sides of the joint with liquid epoxy. After coating the joint, add fillers to the mix if required. Fillers change the viscosity of the mix and enable it to bridge gaps with minimal loss of strength (you can bridge small gaps up to about 1/16-inch without fillers). A small amount of filler helps keep the mix from running. Once the fillers have been added, apply the thickened epoxy to one side of the joint and clamp just enough to squeeze out a little epoxy. A common mistake with epoxy is clamping too tightly. This will create a weak, “glue-starved” joint. Cleanup of the wet epoxy requires solvents such as acetone or lacquer thinner. Workers should use rubber gloves to protect their skin. Any kind of clamping that holds the joint still is suitable, including staples, nails, or wood screws. Scrape off any squeeze-out with a putty knife or dry rag. Once the epoxy has cured to a solid state that cannot be dented with a fingernail, it has reached 90% of its final strength. Then the clamps can be removed and any excess sanded off. The epoxy continues to gain strength for several days and is paintable. -- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Resources for Building Exterior ProductsConstruction Sealant (Caulks) Suppliers & ProductsChemrex www.chemrex.com Polyurethanes and other high-performance sealantsDAP www.dap.com Acrylic latex caulks Dow Corning Sealants www.dowcorningsealants.com Silicone sealants GE Silicones www.gesilicones.com Silicone sealant Geocel Corp www.geocelusa.com Acrylic latex, tripolymer, copolymer, Kraton, and clear sealants Macklanburg-Duncan www.mdteam.com Acrylic latex sealants OSI Sealants Inc www.osisealants.com Polyseamseal PVA-based caulk. Pro Series includes latex, polyurethane, and Kraton sealants. www.phenoseal.com Phenoseal vinyl adhesive caulk Red Devil www.reddevil.com Acrylic, silicone, and butyl sealants Sashco Sealants www.sashco.com Big Stretch and Mor-Flexx water-based sealants, Lexel Kraton sealant Sika Corp www.sikaconstruction.com Complete line of Sikaflex polyurethane-based sealants, butyl sealant Tremco Inc. www.tremcosealants.com High-performance, architectural-grade sealants, UGL www.ugl.com Acrylic latex caulks White Lightning www.wlcaulk.com Tripolymer, butyl, polyurethane, silicone, elastomeric, and other high-performance sealants Exterior AdhesivesAbatron EpoxyWood Repair/Restoration 5501 - 95th Avenue, Kenosha, WI 53144 USA Tel: (262) 653-2000
Fax: (262) 653-2019, For orders: (800) 445-1754 Abatron provides a wide range of wood & building restoration epoxy products including a low-viscosity system that penetrates and solidifies rotted wood and a thicker wood repair putty type epoxy. Ambel www.excelglue.com Excel polyurethane glue Elmer’s Products www.elmers.com Yellow glues, ProBond polyurethane glue Custom-Pak Adhesives www.custompak.com Resorcinol and yellow glues DAP Inc. www.dap.com Weldwood contact cement, resorcinol, and construction adhesives Resources 49 Franklin International www.titebond.com Titebond yellow glue, Liquid Hide Glue, and construction adhesives Gloucester Co. Inc. www.phenoseal.com Phenoseal adhesive caulk Gougeon Brothers www.westsystem.com West System epoxy Gorilla Group www.gorillaglue.com Gorilla polyurethane glue MACCO Adhesives www.liquidnails.com Liquid Nails construction adhesive SI Sealants www.osisealants.com PL400 construction adhesive System Three Resins www.systemthree.com Quick Cure epoxy -- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction. Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)... Ask a Question or Search InspectApediaQuestions & answers or comments about construction glues & adhesives. Ask a Question or Enter Search Terms in the InspectApedia search box just below. Technical Reviewers & ReferencesRelated Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
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