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More Information

UFFI foam insulation in an old house (C) Daniel Friedman How to Remove & Avoid Formaldehyde Gas Hazards In buildings
InspectAPedia®  -    

  • How to get rid of indoor formaldehyde gas
  • How to avoid formaldehyde gas hazards indoors
  • List of sources of formaldehyde gas or odors in buildings
  • How to reduce formaldehyde exposure levels in a building
  • Questions & Answers about reducing formaldehyde gas odors in buildings
InspectAPedia offers impartial, unbiased advice without conflicts of interest. We will block advertisements which we discover or readers inform us are associated with bad business practices, false-advertising, or junk science. our contact info is at InspectAPedia.com/Contact.htm.

This article describes steps to reduce or eliminate exposure to formaldehyde gas in air or water indoors - how to remove formaldehyde gas and formaldehyde gas emitting building products. This article includes excerpts or adaptations from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss, courtesy of Wiley & Sons.

Also see Formaldehyde Hazards - a list of formaldehyde sources in buildings, see Air Pollutants, Common Indoor, and see ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS - INSPECT, TEST, REMEDY for our full list of environmental hazard identification and remedy related to buildings. For a discussion of urethane and polyurethane foam insulation outgassing, see URETHANE FOAM Deterioration, Outgassing.

© Copyright 2012 InspectAPedia.com, Daniel Friedman, Steve Bliss, Wiley & Sons, All Rights Reserved. Information Accuracy & Bias Pledge is at below-left. Use page top links to major topics or use links at the left of each page to navigate within topics and documents at this website. Green links show where you are in a document series or at this website.

As we described at Formaldehyde Hazards and as detailed in Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction:

Formaldehyde is a ubiquitous volatile organic compound (VOC) that occurs in nature and is widely used in building products, finishes, and furnishings because of its desirable properties and low cost. Nearly all products made with formaldehyde outgas to some extent, but only a few contribute significantly to indoor air problems.

Suggestions for Reducing Exposure to Formaldehyde Indoors

Particle board with mold (C) Daniel Friedman

The best way to limit exposure to formaldehyde is to avoid the use of bare pressed wood products made with urea-formaldehyde resins.

Also avoid cabinets, flooring, and furniture finished with acid- catalyzed urea formaldehyde coatings, which emit a very high level of formaldehyde when new. Individuals with formaldehyde sensitivity should take further steps to avoid permanent press draperies, wallpaper, and conventional paints, many of which use formaldehyde as a preservative.

Our photo (left) shows bare particle board visible on the under-side of a game table. The yellow growth happens to be a mold infection. If the bare particle board surface had been sealed with a clear sealant or a paint the moisture up-take of this particle board product would have been less friendly to mold growth and possibly to formaldehyde outgassing as well.

The highest emitting products are typically medium- density fiberboard, particle board, interior hardwood plywoods, such as lauan, and prefinished interior plywood paneling. In addition to underlayments and decorative panels, these product are widely used in cabinets, countertops, shelving, and furniture.

Where possible, substitute solid wood, softwood plywood, or products certified as low emitters of formaldehyde. All exterior-grade plywood and pressed-wood products and all APA-stamped plywood panels use phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are more chemically stable than urea- formaldehyde and have negligible emissions. Homasote products are also free of formaldehyde and can be used as underlayment and sound insulation.

For cabinetwork, look for low-emitting substrates using phenol-formaldehyde or methylene diisocyanate (MDI) resin, such as SierraPine’s formaldehyde-free medium-density-fiberboard called Medite II. There are also many “low-formaldehyde” panel products developed to comply with U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development (HUD) requirements for manufactured housing. While these generally have lower formaldehyde emissions than noncertified products, they may still have over three times the emissions of products made with phenolic or MDI resin.

Where panel products with urea-formaldehyde resins must be used, they should be covered or coated on as many surfaces as possible. Panels covered with an impermeable facing, such a vinyl or plastic laminate, have low emissions. Another option is to coat the panels with two or more coats of a water-resistant finish, such as polyurethane, lacquer, or alkyd paint. In general, unless a finish is visibly thick and an effective vapor barrier, it probably has little effect on formaldehyde emissions.

Controlling heat and humidity is also important, since hot, humid conditions significantly raise the level of formaldehyde emissions. Sensitive individuals should also launder permanent-press draperies before using and should avoid newly painted rooms for several days. Prior to use, any new furnishings or surfaces with formaldehyde-based materials should be allowed to air out for several days to several weeks in a well-ventilated space.

Generally, formaldehyde levels will drop off rapidly at first and eventually level off at very low levels. Monitoring of 40 new houses by Oak Ridge National Laboratory found that, after five years, nearly all houses, including those insulated with urea-formaldehyde (UF) foam insulation, had formaldehyde levels below 0.1 ppm.

-- Adapted with permission from Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction.

Questions & Answers about reducing formaldehyde gas odors in buildings

Question: Eliminating formaldehyde using Ammonia NH4 ?

My daughter purchased a used trailer that now apparently has a formaldehyde odor in it. It doesn’t bother her husband, but does irritate her nose and eyes. She ran across a homeopathic remedy to (apparently) “eliminate” the problem. It involves putting NH4 in the room. The chemistry is shown at a homeopathic remedy website in an article titled "FORMALDEHYDE and its ANTAGONISTS" . The reactions seem reasonable, but this begs the question of the effectiveness of the treatment itself. What do you think about this? Your opinion is appreciated. Thanks in advance. - Eric

Reply: Best approach to indoor formaldehyde: find and remove the sources of irritating indoor chemicals

OPINION: A discussion I had some time ago with a theoretical phyisist included her observation that while, as a theoretician operating at the edge of human understanding of particle physics, she was reluctant to say that anything is impossible, including the "water memory" theory underpinning the very-dilute-is-more-effective principle of homeopathic remedies that dilute a substance with water until not a single molecule of the original substance remains in the treated water.

We recognize that some people report using and being very satisfied with homeopathic remedies for a wide range of complaints, notwithstanding the scientific challenges involved. But the same physicist pointed out that for that latter homeopathic theory to hold, many other scientific observations that are widely accepted, ranging from observations of the earth circling the sun to the operation of internal combustion engines, would have to be found false. So I'm uncertain about citing a homeopathy product marketing website as a source of a "cure" for formaldehyde odors.

Even if the chemistry theory of putting ammonia into indoor air to attack formaldhyde has a theoretical basis, the practical theory may be a bit thin, as we elaborate below.

The procedure described in the article wants you to place the item that is a formadehyde source in a location with an open bowl of lemon-scented ammonia. There is no evidence given in the article that the concentrations of airborne ammonia in a living room populated with formaldehyde outgassing carpets, furniture, cabinetry, would be adequate to have the desired reaction without also producing a dangerous indoor level of ammonia.

Still from a more practical and in our opinion more significant viewpoint, when dealing with most indoor contaminants, it makes the most sense to correct (remove) the source of the contaminant than to try to keep dealing with it by disguising or neutralizing it as it is generated in the indoor environment. Otherwise, as I see it, we permit a continuing source of noxious outgassing to continue and then keep trying to deal with the result.

Watch out: The article to which you refer argues that using ammonia to "get rid of" formaldehyde invoves chemistry in which ammonia reacts with formaldehyde to produce "... a harmless imine with a byproduct of water". Ammonia too is a chemical (or gas) to which exposure can be dangerous and harmful.

In your daughter's case, if moving to a different home is out of the question, then identifying the in-home products that are the primary sources of irritating formaldehyde outgassing would be in order. Often those are carpet padding and in some cases chipboard-based cabinets and furniture. It may be possible to make just a few changes that remove the primary sources of formaldehyde sufficiently that the home no longer bothers her.

Also in at least some products, outgassing diminishes from new products after weeks or months. So the passage time alone, allowing product outgassing to complete (rather than exposure to ammonia) might explain the improvement in formaldehyde levels in many cases.

InspectAPedia is an independent publisher of building, environmental, and forensic inspection, diagnosis, and repair information for the public - we have no business nor financial connection with any manufacturer or service provider discussed at our website. We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles.

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  • InspectAPedia.com® - Daniel Friedman - Publisher & Editor.
  • Steven Bliss served as editorial director and co-publisher of The Journal of Light Construction for 16 years and previously as building technology editor for Progressive Builder and Solar Age magazines. He worked in the building trades as a carpenter and design/build contractor for more than ten years and holds a masters degree from the Harvard Graduate School of Education. Excerpts from his recent book, Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, Wiley (November 18, 2005) ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, appear throughout this website, with permission and courtesy of Wiley & Sons. Best Practices Guide is available from the publisher, J. Wiley & Sons, and also at Amazon.com.
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ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS - INSPECT, TEST, REMEDY

AIR CLEANER PURIFIER TYPES
AIR FILTERS for HVAC SYSTEMS
AIR POLLUTANTS, COMMON INDOOR
ALLERGEN TESTS for buildings
ALLERGENS in buildings, RECOGNIZING
ALLERGY TESTS for PEOPLE
ALLERGY TEST ACCURACY
ANIMAL ALLERGENS / PET DANDER
ANIMAL ENTRY POINTS in buildings
ANIMAL ODORS IN buildings
ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN buildings

BASEMENT MOLD
BATHROOM MOLD
BIBLIOGAPHY for ENVIRONMENTAL HEALTH, MOLD, IAQ
BIOLOGICAL POLLUTANTS
BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLAMES
BLUERAY Recall
BUILDING SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE
BUILDING SETTLEMENT

CARBON MONOXIDE - CO
CARBON MONOXIDE WARNING
CABINETS & COUNTERTOPS
CARPETING & INDOOR AIR QUALITY
CARPETING, SELECTION & INSTALLATION
CAT DANDER in buildings
Cell phone Radiation Hazards
CHAIN OF CUSTODY - TEST SAMPLE
CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS REPAIR
CHIMNEYS & Flues - Asbestos Transite Pipe
CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS

DRYER VENTING
DRYWALL INSTALLATION Best Practices
DRYWALL MOLD
DRYWALL MOLD RESISTANT
ENERGY SAVINGS in buildings
ENGINEERED WOOD Flooring
ENGINEERED WOOD Products

FIRE DAMAGE vs MOLD DAMAGE
FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP
MOLD: A COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOLD

ACTION GUIDE - WHAT TO DO ABOUT INDOOR MOLD
INDOOR AIR QUALITY & HOUSE TIGHTNESS
INDOOR AIR QUALITY IMPROVEMENT GUIDE
  Air Pollutants, Health Effects
  Air Pollutants, Common Indoor
  CABINETS & COUNTERTOPS
  CARPETING & INDOOR AIR QUALITY
  CHINESE DRYWALL HAZARDS
  INDOOR AIR QUALITY IMPROVEMENT, KEY STEPS
  VENTILATION, WHOLE HOUSE STRATEGIES
  VENTILATION, EXHAUST ONLY
  VENTILATION, SUPPLY-ONLY
  VENTILATION, BALANCED
  VENTILATION, BALANCED HEAT COST SAVINGS
  Air Filtering Strategies
  Particles in Indoor Air - Chart
  GAS EXPOSURE EFFECTS
  Gas Toxicity Levels
  Gases, Quick Guide to Indoor
  AIR CLEANER PURIFIER TYPES
  Air Filter Effectiveness
  Real-World Effectiveness of Air Cleaners
  Air Pollutants, Finding & Reducing
  Radon Hazards
  Formaldehyde Hazards
  Formaldehyde Gas Hazard Reduction
  BIOLOGICAL POLLUTANTS
  BLUE vs YELLOW COMBUSTION FLAMES
  BLUERAY Recall
  BUY PRODUCTS for MOLD & ALLERGY CONTROL
  Urea Formaldehyde Foam Insulation UFFI
  URETHANE FOAM Deterioration, Outgassing
  Volatile Organic Compounds VOCs
  Pesticide Exposure Hazards
  Lead Exposure Hazards
  Asbestos Exposure Hazards
  Combustion Appliance Contaminants
  Backdrafting Appliances
  Fireplace & Woodstove Contaminants
  INDOOR AIR HAZARDS TABLE
  INDOOR COMBUSTION PRODUCTS & IAQ
  ODORS, Smells, Gases in buildings
INDOOR AIR QUALITY METHODS COMPARED

LEAD POISONING HAZARDS GUIDE
LEED GREEN BUILDING CERTIFICATION
LEED Building Designation & IAQ

MILDEW in buildings ?
MILDEW ERRORS - MOLD PHOTOS
MILDEW REMOVAL & PREVENTION
MOISTURE CONTROL in buildings

MOLD: A COMPLETE GUIDE to TEST CLEAN PREVENT
MOLD ACTION GUIDE - WHAT TO DO ABOUT MOLD
MOLD ATLAS & PARTICLES INDEX
MOLD BY MICROSCOPE
MOLD in the PETRI DISH, PHOTOS
Mold on Books, Book Conservation
MOLD CLASSES, HAZARD LEVELS
MOLD CLEANERS - WHAT TO USE
MOLD CLEANUP COMPANIES
MOLD CLEANUP GUIDE- HOW TO GET RID OF MOLD
MOLD DETECTION & INSPECTION GUIDE
ODORS, Smells, Gases in buildings-Diagnosis & Cure
RENTERS & TENANTS GUIDE TO MOLD
SAFETY HAZARDS GUIDE
SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR
SICK HOUSE IAQ QUESTIONNAIRE
SEWAGE BACKUP TEST & CLEANUP
STAIN DIAGNOSIS

TECHNICAL & LAB PROCEDURES
THERMAL TRACKING

  • "Urethane Outgassing", Q&A article, Solar Age, April 1984

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

  • Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.
  • Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss. John Wiley & Sons, 2006. ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, Hardcover: 320 pages, available from Amazon.com and also Wiley.com. See our book review of this publication
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