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Mobile ViewINSULATION IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT AIR BYPASS LEAKS AIR LEAK SEALING PROCEDURE AIR SEALING STRATEGIES ASBESTOS FLOORING HAZARD REDUCTION ASBESTOS-FREE INSULATION MATERIALS ASBESTOS IDENTIFICATION IN buildings ATTIC LEAKS, CONDENSATION & ATTIC MOLD BATHROOM VENTILATION BASEMENT LEAKS, INSPECT FOR BASEMENT CEILING VAPOR BARRIER BASEMENT HEAT LOSS BIOGAS PRODUCTION & USE BLOWER DOORS & AIR INFILTRATION BLOWER FAN CONTINUOUS OPERATION BLOWER FAN OPERATION & TESTING BLOWN-IN INSULATION BRICK LINED WALLS BRICK VENEER WALL INSULATION BRICK VENEER WALL Loose, Bulged BRICK WALL DRAINAGE WEEP HOLES BUCKLED FOUNDATIONS due to INSULATION? BUILDING NOISE DIAGNOSIS & CURE CATHEDRAL CEILING INSULATION CATHEDRAL CEILING VENTILATION CATHEDRAL CEILING INSULATION CATHEDRAL CEILING VENTILATION CEILING FINISHES INTERIOR CEILINGS, DROP or SUSPENDED PANEL CEILINGS, PLASTER TYPES CHIMNEY INSPECTION DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR COOLING LOAD REDUCTION by ROOF VENTS COMBUSTION AIR for TIGHT BUILDINGS CONDENSING BOILERS/FURNACES DAMAGE CONDENSATION or SWEATING PIPES, TANKS COOLING LOAD REDUCTION by ROOF VENTS CRAWL SPACES DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS DEW POINT CALCULATION for WALLS DEW POINT TABLE - CONDENSATION POINT GUIDE ENERGY SAVINGS in buildings AIR CHANGE RATE ACH HEAT SAVINGS AIR LEAK SEALING PROCEDURE AQUASTAT OPTIMAL SETTINGS BIOGAS PRODUCTION & USE ENERGY AUDIT - How to Use a Free One ENERGY SAVINGS MAXIMIZE RETURNS ON ENERGY SAVINGS PRIORITIES ENERGY SAVINGS RETROFIT CASE STUDY ENERGY SAVINGS RETROFIT LEAK SEALING GUIDE ENERGY SAVINGS RETROFIT OPTIONS ENERGY STAR PROGRAM ENERGY USE MONITORING HEATING COST SAVINGS METHODS HIGH MASS TRADEOFFS, HEATING vs COOLING HOUSE DOCTOR, how-to be TIMERS for ELECTRIC WATER HEATERS ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS - INSPECT, TEST, REMEDY EXTERIOR WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES FIBERGLASS INSULATION FIBERGLASS HAZARDS FIBERGLASS INSULATION MOLD FLOOD DAMAGE ASSESSMENT, SAFETY & CLEANUP FOOTING & FOUNDATION DRAINS FOUNDATION CRACKS & DAMAGE GUIDE FOUNDATION WATERPROOFING FRENCH DRAINS FRAMING DETAILS for BETTER INSULATION FRAMING DETAILS for DOUBLE WALL HOUSES FRAMING METAL STUD PERFORMANCE FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING FROST HEAVES, FOUNDATION, SLAB GREENHOUSE DESIGN for SOLAR HEATING Insulating a Greenhouse or Solarium Sunspace or Greenhouse Air Movement Greenhouse or Sunspace Ventilation Green House or Solarium Roof Leaks GLASS vs HEAT MIRROR SOLAR GAIN/Loss GREENHOUSE / SUNSPACE GLARE SUNSPACE GLAZING for SUNTANNING GREENHOUSE / SUNSPACE GLARE HEAT LOSS in buildings HEAT LOSS RATE CALCULATIONS HEAT LOSS DETECTION TOOLS HEAT LOSS INDICATORS HEAT LOSS PREVENTION PRIORITIES HEAT LOSS R U & K VALUE CALCULATION HOT ROOF DESIGNS: Un-Vented Roof Solutions HOUSEWRAP AIR & VAPOR BARRIERS HOUSE DOCTOR, how-to be HUMIDITY LEVEL TARGET ICE DAM PREVENTION INDOOR AIR QUALITY & HOUSE TIGHTNESS INDOOR AIR QUALITY IMPROVEMENT GUIDE INSULATION CHOICES INSULATION FACT SHEET- DOE INSULATION IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT INSULATION LOCATION - WHERE TO PUT IT INSULATION MOLD INSULATION R-Values & Properties INSULATION IDENTIFICATION GUIDE INSULATION INSPECTION & IMPROVEMENT LEAD POISONING HAZARDS GUIDE LEED GREEN BUILDING CERTIFICATION LOG HOME ENERGY EFFICIENCY LOG HOME GUIDE INTERIORS of buildings MOISTURE CONTROL in buildings MOLD in FOAM INSULATION, RESISTANCE MOISTURE CONTROL in buildings MVOCs & MOLDY MUSTY ODORS MYCOTOXIN EFFECTS of MOLD EXPOSURE Nanomaterials Hazards NOISE / SOUND DIAGNOSIS & CURE NOISE CONTROL for HEATING SYSTEMS NOISE CONTROL for FLOORS NOISE CONTROL for PLUMBING NOISE CONTROL for ROOFS ODORS & SMELLS DIAGNOSIS & CURE PASCAL CALCULATIONS RADIANT BARRIERS ROT, FUNGUS, TERMITES ROT, TIMBER FRAME SOLAR ENERGY SYSTEMS BLOCKBED RADIANT FLOORS - SOLAR DESIGN GREENHOUSE DESIGN for SOLAR HEATING GREENHOUSE / SUNSPACE GLARE PASSIVE SOLAR DESIGN KEY ELEMENTS PASSIVE SOLAR DESIGN METHOD PASSIVE SOLAR ENERGY MONITORING PASSIVE SOLAR FLOOR TILES, PHASE CHANGE PASSIVE SOLAR HEAT PERFORMANCE PASSIVE SOLAR HOME, LOW COST PASSIVE SOLAR PERFORMANCE PROBE PASSIVE SOLAR Roof & Window Overhangs PHOTOVOLTAIC POWER SYSTEMS POLYCARBONATE GLAZING REMOTE ELECTRIC POWER, PHOTOVOLTAIC ROCK-BED SOLAR HEAT STORAGE DESIGN SLAB INSULATION, PASSIVE SOLAR SLATE THERMAL MASS for SOLAR HEAT STORAGE SOLAR COLLECTOR AIR or GAS COLLECTION SOLAR COLLECTOR EFFICIENCY COMPARISONS SOLAR COLLECTOR FILMS SOLAR COLLECTOR OUTGASSING SOLAR COLLECTOR WOOD HOUSINGS SOLAR GAIN CALCULATION SOLAR HEATING SYSTEM DESIGNS SOLAR HOT WATER HEATERS SOLAR HOUSE EVALUATION SOLAR MODULE MANUFACTURERS SOLAR SHADES & SUNSCREENS SOLAR SHADES, LOW-E EFFECTIVENESS SOLAR WATER DISINFECTION SOLAR HOT WATER HEATERS SUNSPACE DESIGN for SOLAR HEATING SUNSPACE GLAZING for SUNTANNING STORM WINDOW INTERIOR STORM WINDOW PLASTIC CHOICES STORM WINDOW WEEP HOLES SUNGAIN, FILMS, LOW-E GLASS SUNSPACE GLAZING for SUNTANNING SWIMMING POOL SOLAR HEAT, INDOOR SWIMMING POOL SOLAR HEAT, OUTDOOR DIAGNOSIS THERMAL MASS in buildings SOUND CONTROL in buildings STAIN DIAGNOSIS THERMAL MASS in buildings THERMAL MASS FLOOR SLABS THERMAL MASS in UPSTAIRS THERMAL MASS WALL DESIGN THERMAL MASS in HOMES - STUDY THERMAL MASS TRADEOFFS, HEATING vs COOLING THERMAL TRACKING & HEAT LOSS VAPOR BARRIERS & CONDENSATION in buildings VENTILATION in buildings WALL SIDING TRIM & FINISHES WALL FINISHES INTERIOR WATER BARRIERS, EXTERIOR BUILDING WATER ENTRY in buildings WIND ENERGY SYSTEMS WIND TURBINES & LIGHTNING WIND WASHING INSULATION At EAVES WINDOWS & DOORS ALUMINUM WINDOWS Best Practices Guide for Windows & Doors: CLIMATE, WINDOW CHOICES FOR CONDENSATION on WINDOWS & SKYLIGHTS Doors, Exterior, Energy Efficiency Guide Doors, Exterior Flashing Details Doors, Exterior, Frames DOORS, EXTERIOR, Selecting & Installing DOORS, INTERIOR FIBERGLASS WINDOWS GLASS vs HEAT MIRROR SOLAR GAIN/Loss HURRICANE, WIND, & STORM-Resistant WINDOWS LOW-E WINDOW GLAZING LOW-E VS QUAD-GLAZING LOW-E RETROFIT ADD-ON FILMS POLYCARBONATE GLAZING SITE BUILT DOUBLE GLAZED WINDOWS SKYLIGHTS, Guide to Choosing & Installing Skylight Condensation Problems Skylight Window Design Issues Skylight Energy Efficiency Skylight Installation Procedures SKYLIGHT LEAK DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR SKYLIGHT VENTILATION DETAILS SLIDING GLIDING WINDOW DEFECTS SLOPED GLAZING DETAILS STORM WINDOW INTERIOR STORM WINDOW PLASTIC CHOICES STORM WINDOW WEEP HOLES SUNGAIN, FILMS, LOW-E GLASS SUNSPACE GLAZING for SUNTANNING VERTICAL GLAZING DETAILS VINYL WINDOWS VINYL / PVC WINDOW WARPING WINDOW / DOOR ENERGY EFFICIENT, DOE WINDOW / DOOR AIR LEAK SEALING HOW TO Window Certification WINDOW EFFICIENCY Features & Ratings Window Flashing & Sealing Guide WINDOW HARDWARE PHOTOS Window Installation, Flange-Type Window Installation, w/ Integral Brickmold WINDOW LEAKS INTO BASEMENT Window Materials & Construction Window Types, Guide WINDOW TYPES - 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This article discusses how to ventilate a greenhouse used for solar heating, and how to connect the greenhouse to the house for effective heating. We include discussion of placement of vapor barriers and insulation in solar greenhouses under various conditions. InspectAPedia offers impartial, unbiased advice without conflicts of interest. We will block advertisements which we discover or readers inform us are associated with bad business practices, false-advertising, or junk science. Our contact info is at InspectAPedia.com/Contact.htm.The accompanying text is reprinted/adapted/excerpted with permission from Solar Age Magazine - editor Steven Bliss. Our page top photo shows a small sunspace designed into a New York City apartment. You will notice that the walls to the left of the sunspace had been opened to expose the structural brick wall - a step necessary during removal of mold contamination caused by skylight and exterior wall leaks. Readers should also see INSULATION for GREENHOUSE or SOLARIUM. Details about solar shades that may be useful in controlling solar glare are found at SOLAR SHADES & SUNSCREENS and SOLAR SHADES, LOW-E EFFECTIVENESS. Contact us to suggest text changes and additions and, if you wish, to receive online listing and credit for that contribution. © Copyright 2012 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Information Accuracy & Bias Pledge is at below-left. Use page top links to major topics or use links at the left of each page to navigate within topics and documents at this website. Green links show where you are in a document series or at this website. Advice for Insulating a Greenhouse or Solarium Against Night Time Heat Loss
The question-and-answer article about greenhouses or solariums, quotes-from, updates, and comments an original article, (see links just above) from Solar Age Magazine and written by Steven Bliss. Question about how to best insulate a greenhouse (sunspace) against night time heat losses:I plan to convert a carport to a greenhouse / dining room. The brick wall between the carport and the house contains a door to the kitchen and a window to the living room. How should the greenhouse be ventilated and how should the greenhouse be connected to the house for effective solar heating? - Michael Moran, Clemson SC Answer: direct sunlight defines value of thermal mass in buildingsSunspace or Greenhouse Air Movement Advice for Solar Heat Design - Getting Warm Air into the BuildingTo get proper air circulation from the sunspace to the house you will need two vents - one high and one low. The doorway and window should provide this ventilation, though a high vent can be added if required. Since natural air convection is relatively week in a one-story building, a thermostatically controlled fan in the wall would give greater control and move even more heated air from the greenhouse sunspace into the rest of the house. Greenhouse or Sunspace Ventilation - Summer Needs
Green House or Solarium Roof Leak Points to Watch For
Frequently-Asked Questions (FAQs) about Solar Greenhouse DesignQuestion: What is the best type and location of vapor barrier for solar greenhouse construction in moderate climates such as KentuckyFirst, my hardy congratulations to you for an absolutely fabulous website that gives better detailed help than anything else I have found on the Internet. Thank you for this generous public service. Across our country there is more and more interest in backyard solar greenhouse construction, yet there is very little expert direction on many of the issues involved. With the high humidity and warm temps inside these structures, and the emphasis on heavy insulation the issue of vapor barrier/retarder is important. I have explored your excellent website and the principles you give about the use of vapor barriers is thorough. (Thank you.) However, my question involving paint is not specifically answered hence my email question here. The South wall is glazed. The North, East, and West walls are stud construction with the layers inside to outside as follows: Hardy board vertical siding, 6 mil poly, studs and unfaced fiberglass R-21 insulation bats, 3/4" OSB, 15# felt, Hardy board vertical siding installed per manufacturer's guidelines. My question involves paint on the outside and paint on the inside. The outside siding is factory primed with acrylic latex. The manufacturer recommendations are for TWO additional finish coats of exterior acrylic latex paint. I am concerned that this paint will form a vapor barrier that will trap moisture in the walls and dampen my insulation. Is this any concern at all?? Similarly, for reflective purposes, I want to put a light-reflecting paint on the inside walls of the solar greenhouse. Do I need to worry about this painting making the inside wall a vapor barrier? This solar greenhouse is in Central KY. Some other solar greenhouses have been built in this climate zone with NO vapor barrier other than several coats of latex paint on the inside walls. Do you think this is advisable? Another greenhouse builder is putting 15 mil aluminum coil stock "carefully overlapped" on the inside of his greenhouse and no other vapor barrier. His reasoning: "If there is no air flow here, I won't have any moisture problems." His greenhouse is in Colorado. Again, I find this idea intriguing, but is it a safe way to protect a solar greenhouse from condensation, mold, and rot? I would appreciate your expert opinion. Warm Regards, R.B., Richmond KY Reply:RE: " Hardy board vertical siding, 6 mil poly, studs and unfaced fiberglass R-21 insulation bats, 3/4" OSB, 15# felt, Hardy board vertical siding installed per manufacturer's guidelines" It sounds as if you are describing wall construction the inside out. If so the poly is where I'd put it too, since a greenhouse will have higher moisture inside in nearly all climates. RE: your paint question, while I agree that paints form a moisture resistant barrier, a latex paint is the right coating to avoid adding to a moisture trap. Moisture moves through walls from the more moist area to the less moist area. Because you've got a good poly barrier on the inside of the wall (between the more moist greenhouse interior and the less moist wall cavity) it sounds to me as if latex on the wall exterior of the wall should not be a problem any more than it would be on an ordinary building that was not a greenhouse. When you paint the greenhouse interior wall surfaces, I'd stick with a latex paint for the same reasons. Latex paint is more porous or has a lower perm rating (moisture penetrates more easily) than alkyd (modern oils). That will leave your poly as the most moisture resistant barrier in the wall structure. You could argue for painting the interior surface with an alkyd (more moisture resistant) but I think it's a better design to use a paint that has a lower risk of trapping any moisture that finds its way behind the coating itself - latex. About Kentucky greenhouses built using no vapor barrier other than paint, if we look at comparative perm ratings, paint has a lower perm rating than poly and foil has a nearly zero perm rating. A design that relies only on paint on the interior of a KY greenhouse may work just fine provided that moisture can continue to move all the way through the insulation and to outside without ever condensing in the insulation. The risk in the no-vapor barrier design is that if the walls are also insulated, in some of your colder months you may well reach the dew point in the insulation, leading to condensation there, and wet insulation, and ultimately even a rot or mold problem in the wall cavity. The real answer is that the movement of moisture in and out of greenhouse wall cavities ... well it depends on at least these variables:
- all factors that determine whether or not we reach excessive in-wall-cavity moisture that won't simply dry out when weather changes. Finally, I agree mostly with your builder who uses aluminum coil stock "carefully overlapped" and I certainly agree with his point about airflow. Moisture movement studies reported at the Boston 1985 Journal of Light Construction building conference confirmed that most moisture movement into and out of building cavities occurs at penetrations where there are air leaks and air movement. Air may move in either direction - in or out of the wall cavity, depending on varying building conditions of temperature, humidity, and even building pressures. No air movement means no consequential moisture movement into the wall cavity in most construction designs. Further, aluminum coil stock would have a perm rating of zero, except that air could move thorough those overlapped joints unless they were taped with a foil tape. But in my opinion, for owners who don't want to look at aluminum greenhouse walls, an equally moisture-resistant wall could have been built using foil as the vapor barrier, over which you install a finish paneling or wall covering of your choice. The devil in both cases is in the details: how carefully does the builder seal wall penetrations left for electrical receptacles, switches, and around windows and doors. But all of the above is my OPINION. By copy of this note I'll invite our solar design expert Steven Bliss for any comments or corrections he may want to offer and I'll post any updates here. Comments on Greenhouse Moisture ControlIn general, as you point out, moisture is much more likely to enter walls via air leakage than diffusion (and most likely to get via exterior leaks due to capillary action, flashing problems, etc.) Air leakage into walls typically occurs around electrical outlets and penetrations for doors and windows, and where the wall finishes meet the floor. Assuming the greenhouse is a fairly moist environment, it would be important to seal these areas well. If moisture levels are very high and outdoor temperatures low, then diffusion could also play a significant role in the absence of an interior vapor retarder. Using a layer of polyethylene on the interior side of the wall, sealed well at joints and edges with a sheathing tape approved for use with polyethylene (3M Construction Seaming Tape and Tuck Tape are two brands) would work well as both the air barrier and vapor retarder. With a good seal and effective vapor retarder on the interior, the painted Hardiboard siding should not create any problems. - Steven Bliss Questions & Answers regarding this articleQuestions & answers about greenhouse and passive solar greenhouse design, insulation, and ventilation Ask a Question or Search InspectAPediaHTML Comment Box is loading comments...
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