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Where & How to Add Heat or Insulation to Prevent Frozen Pipes
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InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
Freeze-protection for buildings: this article explains where, why, and how to add heat at cold problem spots to avoid freezing pipes. We discuss the safe use of heat tapes in buildings and warn about unsafe heating tapes and fire hazards. The articles at this website will answer most questions about freeze protection for piping and other building plumbing and heating system components: how to winterize a building to avoid frozen pipes, and how to thaw frozen water supply & drain piping, wells, & water tanks. We discuss various methods to give each spot in danger of freezing its own heat source. For example simple passive heating may be sufficient to avoid freezing in some locations: in kitchens and bathrooms we may leave open vanity cabinet doors to permit warmer building air to reach pipes in those areas.
Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.
How & Where to add Heat to Protect Plumbing Pipes or Components from Freezing
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 Adding heat to protect plumbing in un-heated areas such as crawl spaces: you may add heat either by installing a short section of heating baseboard, an extra opening cut in a warm air supply duct running through a crawl area, a small thermostatically-controlled electric heater set to operate only at low temperatures, or in small but cold areas, a simple light bulb may provide enough heat to prevent freezing.
Check these auxiliary heaters frequently to assure that the heat source is still working; be sure to respect fire safety when installing any heat source. Adding small point-sources of extra heat in a building to protect from freezing is likely to be more economical than running the central heating system to a higher temperature just to warm up a cold corner or two. Particularly if the thermostat set-back temperature results in the heating system turning on less often, adding point source heating may be needed.
We can add heat to protect plumbing and heating piping using any of the methods listed below and described in detail in this article:
- Increase the flow of warm building air from the heated space into the cold corner or spot at risk of freezing by cutting one or more openings that let air circulate into the cold spot. In some bathrooms or kitchens we may simply leave the cabinet doors open to let room air reach sink plumbing.
- Add a point-source of heat such as a tiny low-temperature-on electric heater, a short section of hot water heating baseboard, or by cutting an extra opening to let warm air blow out of a warm air supply duct into the cold area.
Notice that the convector heater suspended from the crawl space ceiling (photo at left) has nothing combustible too close to the heater? Make sure that your added heat source does not create a fire risk.
We discuss adding heat to un-heated or chilly areas using fan convector units in more detail at FAN CONVECTOR HEATERS - HYDRONIC COILS
- Use heat tapes on piping in areas which are difficult to heat
- Use a light bulb as a heat source. Keep light bulbs at least two feet from any combustibles. Even a light bulb can start a fire if it's too close to combustibles.
- Add insulation on piping to protect it from freezing
- Change heating system controls to continuously circulate the water inside of heating baseboards or radiators even when the boiler is not itself heating the water.
- Leave water faucets open to a drip or very slow trickle: this is an emergency procedure that you may need to use if your building loses heat. Normally it's not a great idea to leave water running as we are wasting water, risking frozen drain lines, and if a septic system is installed, we risk flooding the septic system.
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Increase warm air flow: Another way we've added heat to problem areas where pipes freeze is to simply make one or more openings to permit warm air to circulate from the building into the cold area.
After finding freezing water pipes entering a bathroom located over a kitchen in a home with warm air heat, we cut an opening in the kitchen ceiling and installed a heating register there to make the hole look nice. Warm air rising from the kitchen proved sufficient to prevent a future freeze-up of the pipes in that location.
In any cold area where you are adding heat to avoid freezing pipes, the amount of heat you need to add will be reduced a lot if the cold area itself is insulated. Fiberglass insulation is fine for most building locations, but to reduce the risk of mold growth, we prefer to use solid foam insulation in areas like crawl spaces that are exposed to dampness.
Guide to Using Heat Tapes to Protect Pipes From Freezing
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Using heat tapes to protect pipes from freezing: heat tapes are one of the simplest and more commonly used methods of protecting sections of water pipes from freezing.
Avoid a fire hazard with heating tapes: But if the heat tape is not correctly installed it can be a fire hazard (as well as unreliable). Heat tape safety suggestions from the US CPSC are offered below.
Heating tapes work fine on copper, brass, or galvanized iron piping, for both supply and drain piping but we prefer the type that use an automatic thermostat so that we are not using electricity unnecessarily. Be sure that the heat tape is properly installed and that you don't cover the thermostat nor place it in a warm rather than cold spot on the piping.
How to Install Heating Tapes on Plastic or PVC Supply or Drain Piping
If your building plumbing pipes are plastic, such as PVC water piping, use only pipe heat tape that has an automatic thermostat to control the heat tape temperature. Otherwise a very hot heating tape may damage the piping or even cause a leak.
Watch out: some heating tapes cannot safely be used on drain pipes, particularly PVC piping, possibly because of a concern for heat damage to the piping. Be sure to check with the manufacturer about the intended application of their heating tape. The tape installation specs for PVC or other plastic piping may specify the spacing used when spiraling the heat tape around the pipe to avoid any risk of overheating. Be sure to read Pipe Heat Tape Safety Guide from the US CPSC (below in this same article)
Several manufacturers provide pipe heating cables that can be used on all types of piping materials including plastic or PVC, but be sure to read the instructions. Depending on the pipe material, different heat tape installation procedures are recommended. Here are some examples provided by Easy Heat®. The company also provides an electrical receptacle adapter that provides thermostatic control to turn the heating cable on and off as needed. [9] Other heating cables that can work in these applications are available from RayChem® [11] and other manufacturers.
Temperature-controlled cable runs straight along pipe and valves, held in place by application tape and plugs into grounded electrical outlet. Keeps water flowing down to -380. For odd lengths of pipe over 3/4 inches in diameter, we recommend two separate cables on opposite sides of the pipe with up to 3 feet of overrun at center of pipe run.
Metal pipe requires 1/2-inch fiberglass insulation around cable.
For plastic pipe, its recommended wrapping pipe with aluminum foil before cable installation.
The traditional resistance cable produces a fixed amount of heat based on the electrical line feed. It comes with a built-in thermostat that switches the flow of electricity on and off based on temperature. 120 volts. 7 watts per foot. Not U.L. Listed. [9]
How to Protect a Sump Pump from Freezing
Sump pump and drain piping freeze protection: for indoor sump pumps and drains follow our advice above regarding metal vs. plastic piping and heat tape selection. If your sump pump drain line is exposed to severe cold above ground outdoors it may be difficult to keep it from freezing.
A common water entry problem we've seen is during spring thaw in northern climates. The ground surface may be frozen but melting snow sends water into building around and through foundation walls, especially if you've shoveled snow piled up against the foundation walls.
If the building is relying on a sump pump to remove foundation water then this is just the time we don't want our sump pump drain to freeze. If the drain can't be buried below the frost line all the way from the building to its final destination, we've had some success using heat cables intended for outdoor and wet conditions, even placing the tape inside the pipe in some installations. Follow the heating tape manufacturer's instructions and be sure to provide a means of easy tape replacement when needed - you don't want to have to dig up the entire line over again just to replace a heating tape on a sump pump drain.
Heating tape safety and proper installation are discussed just below. |
Other Common Locations for Heating Cables or Tapes to Prevent Pipe Freeze Damage
Common locations where heating tapes are used on plumbing to prevent freezing pipes include:
- Water pipes run through attics
- Water pipes run through un-heated crawl spaces
- Water pipes and equipment in un-heated garages
- Water equipment in well pits
- Water pipes running under porches
- Heating oil piping where heating oil is stored in outdoor above ground oil storage tanks. - See HEAT TAPE HAZARD ON OIL TANK
Some older or less costly models of heating tapes present a fire risk, particularly if the heating tape is crossed over itself. Be sure to read the product specifications, safety warnings, and installation guide before installing a heating tape on building piping of any kind.
Pipe Heat Tape Safety Guide from the US CPSC
The U.S. CPSC has provided safety recommendations for homeowners using heat tapes to help prevent fires:
- Replace heat tapes that are older than three years
- Use only heat tapes certified to meet recognized voluntary fire safety standards such as those provided by Underwriters Laboratories (UL), the Canadian Standards Association (CSA), and the Factory Mutual Research Corporation (FMRC).
- Plug the grounded (3-prong) plug into a grounded GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) protected electrical outlet
- Don't cross the heat tape across itself unless the manufacturer says that's acceptable - crossed heat tapes can overheat and start a fire
- Put the heating tape on the surface of the pipe to be protected from freezing, not on top of pipe insulation, and do not cover the heating tape with insulation unless the manufacturer says that's acceptable. Use only non-combustible insulation on pipes where heating tapes are installed (like fiberglass insulation). Foam or vinyl pipe insulation may catch on fire from a faulty heat tape or faulty heat tape installation.
- Protect the sealed end-cap of the heat tape (see our photo above) from damage and water leaks which could cause a short circuit or fire.
- Use heating tape only for the application approved for that particular heating tape, such as for use on piping. Some heat tapes are designed for use in gutters or driveways while others are designed for use on piping or fuel piping.
- Be sure that the heat tape thermostat (if one is provided) is placed where the instructions say. For example some heat tape thermostats should be placed in contact with the pipe, others left hanging in air. (See our photo above)
- Replace any heat tape that is discolored (a sign of overheating), cracked, melted, or damaged in any way.
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Advice For & Warnings About Using GFCI-protected Circuits to Power Heat Tapes to Avoid Fires
Watch out: some models of heat tapes used for freeze protection can cause a building fire if the tapes are not installed according to the manufacturer's recommendations, particularly if the tape crosses over itself.
As Ryan Duffy points out, connecting the heat tape to a GFCI-protected circuit can substantially reduce the risk of heat tape fires. However if the GFCI-protected heat tape circuit trips-off during typical current leakage conditions and without drawing attention of the building occupants, the risk of freeze damaged piping, leaks, water damage, and mold damage will be increased.
The US CPSC recommended in 1994 that HUD consider dropping its no-GFCI-on-Heat-Tape-Circuit provision, and that heat tape powering electrical circuits be be protected with a GFCI device in the electrical panel rather than at the electrical receptacle or "outlet". Ground fault protection was first required in the 1987 NEC for heat tapes that did not have a metal covering. In 1996/1999 the NEC expanded the requirements for GFCI protection and specified that mobile homes would have at least one heat tape receptacle. [A significant number of heat tape-related fires occurred in mobile and manufactured homes.] Also see AFCIs ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS
Guide to Pipe Insulation to Prevent Freezing
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 Add Water Pipe insulation to prevent freezing: can be added to protect pipes routed through un-heated areas or near cold building corners. We particularly like to add slip-on foam pipe insulation where a plumbing line is run past a cold spot that is hard to warm up.
Some writers believe that if you insulate all of your water supply piping you won't have a frozen pipe problem. That may be a bit optimistic: we fear that a cold corner somewhere will be missed and left un insulated, or that a house left without heat for too long will get cold enough to freeze even an insulated pipe.
The advantage of insulating pipes is that it slows the rate at which a water pipe will freeze, possibly getting the pipe through the coldest part of the night and into a (hopefully) warmer daytime to warm-up again.
Remember, when insulating a water pipe, that you need to insulate all of it. Don't leave those awkward elbows or pipe tees un insulated.
Here is a speculative warning about relying on pipe insulation alone to avoid freezing, that is, we don't have hard science to back up this view: Insulation on a water pipe will protect the pipe from freezing during a brief very cold spell. But during a period of prolonged very cold nights and only moderately warmer days, we wonder if the insulation permits the pipes to accumulate "cold" rather than warmth, ultimately reaching the freezing point.
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Plastic piping to resist freezing: modern plastic piping is considerably more tolerant of freezing without bursting than copper or steel water pipes. In a home intended for regular winterization some builders use exclusively plastic pipes to resist freeze damage.
Watch out: even when freeze-tolerant piping is used, the piping connections, elbows, unions, couplings, and plumbing fixtures are still at risk of frost damage.
See FREEZE-PROOF A BUILDING where we describe GFCI protection on heat tape circuits powering heat tapes for manufactured and mobile homes. Similar issues regarding building water entry control are discussed at Sump Pump Inspection. Also see Testing Receptacles GFCIs AFCIs. AFCI's are discussed at AFCIs ARC FAULT CIRCUIT INTERRUPTERS. Readers should also see HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams where we describe outdoor use of heating tapes and de-icing cables to prevent ice dam leaks into buildings.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about where & how to add heat to freeze-proof water pipes in a house
Question: what about using heat tape on sewer pipes - our mobile home sewer line keeps freezing
You don't say anything regarding using heat tape on sewer pipes. We have an annual problem with a mobile home sewer line freezing. The line connects a toilet, shower and tub so when it freezes it is a mess. - Anon. 9/19/11
Reply:
Anon, you can add a heat tape on a sewer line provided the tape you choose is connected and secured to the sewer line the way the manufacturer instructs. Make sure that the bottom of the waste pipe is in contact with the heat tape, and provided the heat tape manufacturer permits, insulate the line as well. The combination of a proper heat tape and sewer line insulation is usually enough to stop freeze-up but here are some additional tips for mobile home waste line freeze problems:
- Watch out: some heating tapes cannot safely be used on drain pipes, possibly because of a concern for heat damage to the piping. Details are in the article above at How to install a heat tape
- Because the waste line typically has a vertical segment between the floor of the mobile home and the ground and because that segment is exposed to cold air in the crawl space beneath the home you will want to insulate it. But in termite prone areas the risk is that your insulation provides an insect path from the soil up into the floor of the home. Ask your local pest company for advice about protecting this area from insects or perhaps construct a surrounding (openable for inspection and repair) partition wall that uses termite shields.
- Watch out for dripping faucets and running toilets. A drain line does not normally contain standing water but when routed through freezing spaces and when there is a small rivulet of water in the drain due to a slow leak indoors such as a drip or running toilet, that water can freeze and accumulate until the line becomes blocked, frozen solid, and burst.
Question: what kind of heating tapes can be used on PVC plumbing drains?
I have a PVC drain line for my water softener that goes outside. When it got very cold two winters ago, the drain line froze and it backed up into house. The drain line lays on the ground. I went to a local store to look for heat tape and they specifically stated not to use on drain lines. Is there some type of tape I could use that would be safe, and how should it be installed? - Don Corbett 9/30/11
Reply:
Don:
A concern with heat tapes on plastic piping is that it may damage the pipes. And if your water softener drain is simply draining onto the ground surface, that is an improper and illegal disposition of wastewater in just about every jurisdiction. Unfortunately the proper fix is costly: reroute drainage to a drywell or other approved drainage destination.
If you use drain piping of sufficient diameter and proper slope, even exposed to cold temperatures the drainage will generally not freeze up in normal use. More help on avoiding freezing piping is at WINTERIZE A BUILDING.
Heating tapes and cables can be installed on PVC supply and drain piping provided you choose the right kind of heating tape or cable and that you follow the manufacturer's instructions. Details are in the article above at How to install a heat tape.
Question: is it OK for the water line to run atop a concrete slab or should it be under ground?
In a mobile home in N.E. should the water supply line be placed on top of the concrete slap for 30 feet or more. Would that be up to code?
Should the line from the street be 4 feet under ground to within 6 feet of the hot water heater? - Lee Broad 1/23/12
Reply:
Lee, if you are describing a water line atop the rat slab beneath a mobile home, there are a couple of hazards including freezing and also movement-caused abrasion and leakage. If the line is supported off of the slab by blocks and insulated you may be OK, else you'll need to add frost protection as well. Heating cables (see advice above in this article) are readily available in lengths up to 60 ft. so you won't have trouble finding one long enough. Don't buy one longer than you need and be sure it is connected according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Question: what is the best way to heat a well pit?
what is the best way to heat a well pit - Jim, 10/18/2012
Reply:
Jim:
A well pit is intended to protect its contents, well head, piping, possibly even a water tank and pump from freezing by its depth below ground. If you have to add heat then the pit was perhaps not properly constructed, not deep enough, or left uncovered.
That griping done, you could consider adding a small electric heater; We have also used a simple light bulb in a small, closed well pit. The risk of course is that electricity fails or the bulb burns out. That's why I think a small oil-filled electric heater is probably more safe. Be sure that ALL electrical components in a well pit are protected from water, including the occasional well pit flood. - See more at: http://inspectapedia.com/plumbing/Pipe_Heat_Add_Points.htm#sthash.Nk3hbfK8.dpuf.
Question: tips on how to use a circulating pump to prevent water from freezing
Great suggestions - good article!
Beside insulating pipes from cold weather, or trying to use heat tape, a very effective way of protecting pipes from freezing is to introduce a circulating pump into the water system. By installing a circulation system, the water from the 'hot' side of the system gets sent to the 'cold' water line. This greatly reduces the possibility of water pipes freezing because the water temperature never reaches the critical freezing point.
The best circulation system on the market that I've seen is available at http://avoidfrozenpipes.com/ It is the only circulating pump I've seen that doesn't need electricity to run. It can be installed anywhere in the water system, and save hundreds if not thousands of dollars in home repairs if frozen pipes burst from water expansion.
That's my two cents; I hope it helps! - Vincent 1/21/2013
Reply:
Thanks so much Vincent. We welcome content critique & suggestions for InspectApedia articles. Working together we are smarter than any individual. - Daniel
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Technical Reviewers & References
Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
- [1] "New Electric Heat Tapes Help Prevent Fires," US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) #00936
- Mark Cramer Inspection Services Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. Mr. Cramer serves on the ASHI Home Inspection Standards. Contact Mark Cramer at: 727-595-4211 mark@BestTampaInspector.com
- John Cranor is an ASHI member and a home inspector (The House Whisperer) is located in Glen Allen, VA 23060. He is also a contributor to InspectApedia.com in several technical areas such as plumbing and appliances (dryer vents). Contact Mr. Cranor at 804-747-7747 or by Email: johncranor@verizon.net
 Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 info@carsondunlop.com. The firm provides professional home inspection services & home inspection education & publications. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission for InspectAPedia to use text excerpts from The Home Reference Book & illustrations from The Illustrated Home. Carson Dunlop Associates' provides:
- Commercial Building Inspection Courses - protocol ASTM Standard E 2018-08 for Property Condition Assessments
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Special Offer: Carson Dunlop Associates offers InspectAPedia readers in the U.S.A. a 5% discount on these courses: Enter INSPECTAHITP in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
- The Home Reference Book, a reference & inspection report product for building owners & inspectors.
Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
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Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter inspectaehrb in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
- The Illustrated Home illustrates construction details and building components, a reference for owners & inspectors.
Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Illustrated Home purchased as a single order Enter INSPECTAILL in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.
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- [5] "Freezeproof Your House," Mike McClintock, Rodale's New Shelter, p. 30, October 1985 (approximate date)
- [6] "How to Winterize Your Pipes," Mike McClintock, Homeowners How-To Magazine, p. 59-62, Nov-Dec 1979.
- [7] "HUD Regulation for Manufactured Homes; Requirement that Heat-Tape not include a GFCI [ copy on file as /plumbing/GFCI_Heat_Tapes_HUD_CPSC_Letter1994.pdf ] - ", Meeting Log, US CPSC, HUD, Dennis McCoskrie, ESEE, 2/14/1994
- [8] Thanks to reader Ryan T. Duffy for discussing the suggestion for GFCI's on heat tape circuits to reduce fire risk, October 2010.
- [9] Easy Heat heating cables, "Easy Heat AHB-013 Cold Weather Valve and Pipe Heating Cable",
http://www.emersonindustrial.com/, retrieved 3/2/2013,
Product Description: Temperature-controlled cable runs straight along pipe and valves, held in place by application tape and plugs into grounded electrical outlet. Keeps water flowing down to -380. For odd lengths of pipe over 3/4 inches in diameter, we recommend two separate cables on opposite sides of the pipe with up to 3 feet of overrun at center of pipe run. Metal pipe requires 1/2-inch fiberglass insulation around cable. For plastic pipe, its recommended wrapping pipe with aluminum foil before cable installation. The traditional resistance cable produces a fixed amount of heat based on the electrical line feed. It comes with a built-in thermostat that switches the flow of electricity on and off based on temperature. Cable installs fast and easy. Each package contains grounded plug, built in thermostat and instructions. Cable has weather resistant PVC outer jacket and inner insulation. Keeps water flowing down to 40 F.
- [10] Easy Heat, "Easy Heat® Freeze Free® Preset Thermostat (EH-38)" , EGS Electrical Group, 9377 W. Higgins Rd.
Rosemont, IL 60018, USA or EGS Electrical Group, 99 Union Street
Elmira, ON N3B 3L7, Canada. Tel: 800.621.1506,
Product specifications: 15 amps, 120 volts
1800 watts
Thermostat for use with Freeze Free Self-Regulating pipe heating cable,
For dry location only,
UL listed,
CSA certified
- [11] RayChem "Self-Regulating Pipe Heating and Roof/Gutter De-Icing Cable", Rachem Corporation, 300 Constitution Drive, Menlo Park, California 94025-1164, U.S.A., Website: http://raychem.te.com/, retrieved 3/2/2013, Product Description:
Self Regulating Heating Cable, Mounting Location Dry, Cable Length 50 ft., Max. Circuit Length 200 ft., Voltage 120, 6 Watts per Foot @ 40F, 0.050 Amps per Foot @ 40FFeatures Self Regulating, Automatically Adjust Heat Output, For Use With Lighter Plastic or Metal Pipes Up to 8 In. Dia., Standards UL Listed and CSA Certified, Includes Cable Only;
Characteristics : Tough Metal Braided Self Regulating Heating Cables, Can be Overlapped and Insulated without Overheating or Burning Out, Automatically Adjust Heat Output at Each Point Along its Length without Using Thermostats, Standards : UL Listed and CSA Certified, Includes : Cable Only
Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair
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er- Plumbing Diagnosis & Repair: Water supply, drainage, septic systems, water testing, water contamination, defective plumbing materials & products.
 The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.
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