Winterizing Guide: How to Freeze-Protect Water Supply Piping, Drain Piping, Water Pumps, Tanks, Heaters - Turning HEAT OFF InspectAPedia® -
How to winterize or freezeproof a building - how to winterize when you plan to turn HEAT OFF
How to avoid freezing water supply pipes and drain piping, drains, traps, toilets, etc.
How to winterize pipes: frost protection for plumbing systems
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The articles at this website will answer most questions about freeze protection for piping and other building plumbing and heating system components: how to winterize a building to avoid frozen pipes, and how to thaw frozen water supply & drain piping, wells, & water tanks.
Is the building heat going to be left "on" or "off" - the answer determines the extent of freeze-proofing needed.
If heat is to be left on in a partially winterized building see the procedure at: Winterize - Heat On
If heat is to be turned off and the building completely winterized, see the procedure at: Winterize- Heat Off (continuing just below)
How to Winterize a Building If you are Turning the Heat Off
If you have decided to shut down the building's heating system, some steps to protect the building from freeze damage are simple (you don't worry about figuring out the thermostat set-temperature nor about finding "cold spots" where pipes may freeze). But other critical steps need to be performed:
Close the main building water supply valve. Check that the valve really closed fully during the process of draining the piping. Be careful: some valves that are seldom used or which are old may not close off completely. You just think you've turned off the water supply, but really your water main valve may still be slowly feeding water back into the supply piping.
If a water pump and pressure tank are installed, turn off electrical power to the water pump. (Draining the pump and water tank are discussed below.)
Drain the building water supply piping; because most homes other than some vacation cottages are not built with piping intended to be periodically drained, there may be long horizontal pipe runs that will not easily drain out all of their water by gravity, or even some supply pipes that slope "backwards" and refuse to drain.
Use air to remove water: Some plumbers try blowing air through the piping to force out water, or they may install multiple points at which piping can be drained. Below we address some steps to check for frozen, burst piping when turning the water supply back on.
Cut pipes to remove water: Other plumbers will simply cut open any water supply pipe that may not be draining properly, figuring that it's a much smaller repair to later close that cut connection than to fix a building that has been flooded.
Use the building drain: Most buildings include a building drain valve located at or near the lowest point in the building supply piping, but "inside" the building or past the main building water supply shutoff valve.
Drain the building plumbing fixtures, tanks, faucets, such as
Winterize toilets, and remove all toilet water from bowls and toilet tanks. Some winterizing companies pour an anti-freeze mix into building toilets and traps. Some anti-freeze chemicals are toxic and should not be discharged into a septic system. See notes below about use of antifreeze in buildings.
Winterize water heaters (never turn on electricity to a drained electric water heater, nor turn on power to a gas or oil fired water heater either - it is dangerous and is likely to destroy the heater too)
Winterize well water tanks and pumps: need to be completely drained of water - a frozen burst in-building water pump adds an expensive repair later
Winterize all building faucets: after water supply has been turned off, open every faucet and leave it open - water left in a faucet can freeze and break it.
Open outdoor faucets: be sure also to remove any garden hoses on outside faucets. A garden hose can retain water that freezes and damages the outdoor hose bib (faucet).
Winterize the building supply piping: above we recommended removing all water from the supply pipes, cutting pipes if necessary.
To be sure that you have not left water in a hidden corner of supply piping somewhere, if you have not done so, see our tips at Find & Fix Water Pipe Freeze-Up Points which was discussed under the "heat-on" winterization notes.
If your incoming municipal water supply piping is not well below the frost line it may be necessary to find or even install a water shutoff valve closer to the connection of your building's water piping to the municipal water main. Private water supply systems are easier to shut down but also need to be drained.
Turn off and drain the water softener or other water treatment equipment.
There we discuss water softener shut-down procedure, explain why we use the water sofener bypass valve, and how that can reduce the risk of freeze damaged pipes, leaks, and even indoor mold growth.
Winterize all building drains: if you have not already done so, review our tips at Freeze Protect Drains which was discussed under the "heat-on" winterization notes. Further steps include removing traps and use of a non-toxic antifreeze in traps or toilets that cannot easily be removed or emptied of all water.
Empty or remove building fixture traps; see our note below about use of antifreeze.
Use of antifreeze to winterize a building: Be careful: unless the anti-freeze is specifically designed for winterizing a building it could be highly toxic (such as automobile antifreeze).
We do not recommend using toxic antifreeze to winterize a building since later you're moving that contaminant into the public sewer or into soils (and possibly ground water) around a private septic system. Only inside of closed water systems such as a heating boiler do we recommend use of anti-freeze mix in a building.
Drain the hot water tank and other building tanks: the hot water tank and water pressure tank and pump itself if a private well and tank system are installed.
This sketch of a gas-fired water heater and its control valves is provided courtesy of Carson Dunlop.
Warning: do not drain a water heater tank before first turning off its energy source: oil, gas, or electricity.
Heating an empty water tank is very dangerous and is likely to quickly destroy the tank or its heating elements.
Also see Winterize Water Softener & Treatment Equip. - about turning off water softeners and, if heat is to be turned off, drain the softener and any other water treatment equipment.
Shut down the heating system when all other steps to protect the building have been completed:
Hot water heating systems: Drain the building heating boiler and heating supply piping, or install an anti-freeze mix in the heating boiler and its supply piping. Notify your oil heat supplier if you are turning off heat in the building, and remember to notify them again when it is turned back on.
Steam heating systems: drain the heating boiler and condensate lines and condensate pump if a pump or pumping station are used.
Electric heat or warm air furnaces: can simply be turned off.
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"New Electric Heat Tapes Help Prevent Fires," US Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) #00936
Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, Carson Dunlop, Associates, Toronto, for permission to use illustrations from their publication, The Illustrated Home which illustrates construction details and building components. Carson Dunlop provides home inspection education, publications, report writing materials, and home inspection services. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
"Freezeproof Your House," Mike McClintock, Rodale's New Shelter, p. 30, October 1985 (approximate date)
"How to Winterize Your Pipes," Mike McClintock, Homeowners How-To Magazine, p. 59-62, Nov-Dec 1979.
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HOT WATER HEATERS - a detailed guide to all types of hot water sources, problems, inspection, repair
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