Winter & Cold Weather Roof Problems & other Roof Replacement & Roof Maintenance Foul-Ups
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What are the effects of winter and cold weather on building roofs, and what particular problems and hazards should we associate between building roof systems and winter weather?
What effects do winter or cold weather roof troubles have on the rest of the building?
Besides ice dams, what other winter issues can hurt your roof?
If a roof needs to be re roofed or if shingles need to be replaced, is November too late?
Should a contractor remove leaves and sticks OR should a homeowner include this as part of their regular maintenance?
"What's newer"? Shingles installed 5 years ago or 2 years ago?
How would a homeowner know if their shingles are newer and if algae growth is a risk?
What happens if old roof flashing isn't replaced with new flashing during re-roofing?
Roof Snafu case history: "My new roof is leaking like mad every time it rains! ... "
Questions & Answers about the effects of winter and cold weather on building roofs and related building components: common problems, causes, prevention, cures

This article describes problems caused in building roofing systems by cold weather and winter weather conditions, and additional roofing troubles that come during roof maintenance (or lack of it) and during re-roofing, roof-overs, or roof replacement jobs. We also describe a case of severe roof leaks blamed on the roof contractor (who omitted roof flashing) but for which the homeowner also bore some responsibility.

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Winter & Cold Weather Roof Troubles: Q&A [1]

Question: Besides ice dams, what other winter issues can hurt your roof?

Reply: List of winter problems, risks, and damage to building roofs besides ice dams

If you restrict comments to hurting the roof itself, it's a too-narrow scope question, because some cold weather and winter roof problems can cause serious trouble in other building areas and with other building components too.

Heavy weight of accumulated snow, particularly near spring when heavy snow covering may absorb rainfall, can cause structural damage, breaking rafters and leading to catastrophic collapse.

This worry is more of a concern on older structures whose framing may be below modern standards, and on newer structures that either were not properly framed (wrong size and spacing of framing members (rafters, trusses, purlins)), or not properly connected (inadequate or improper nailing, improper or inadequate rafter bearing on the top plate or at the ridge.)
Serious fall injuries, even death, when people try to clear the snow off of their laden roofs without knowing safe procedures for doing-so - secondary damage from people chopping to try to get rid of ice, damaging shingles and gutters - ice pushing off gutters leading to later leaks and building water entry
Snow-blocked plumbing vents (too-short vents) leading to poor drainage and even sewer gas backups into the building - unsanitary and an explosion risk
Cracked broken shingles on older roofs that are walked-on when cold.
Skylight leaks if covered by deep snow followed by heavy rain, most likely at skylights that were already damaged or that were not properly installed, flashed, sealed
Other roof flashing leaks or leaks at worn roof areas are more likely to show up in the building interior when the weather begins to warm and there is accumulated snow on the building roof. The accumulated snow slows the mechanical drainage of water off of the roof surface, giving water more time to find its way into the structure through even the smallest defect at a hole in a roof valley, a loose section of chimney flashing, or an area of worn shingles.

Ice dams that leak into walls and lead to a costly mold or insect or rot problem can be a much bigger and more costly problem than first meets the eye. Our photo (left) shows severe ice dams at the eaves of a Poughkeepsie New York roof. Ice and water at this building leaked into and around some windows and walls on this structure.

So while your question excludes ice dams it is important for readers to understand that the problems caused by ice dams at roof edges can affect more building areas than the roof itself, including leaks into the attic or roof cavity, leaks into building walls, and an invitation to wood destroying insects or to serious building and building insulation mold contamination.

See our article on ice dams, condensation, and roof leaks caused by ice dams at ICE DAM PREVENTION. Also see FLAT ROOF MOISTURE & CONDENSATION.
And if you're using heat tapes at roof edges to avoid ice dam leaks, see HEAT TAPES & CABLES on Roofs for Ice Dams.

Cold weather roof noises: cracks, booms, crashes. We have fielded some interesting reports of annoying roof noises, some of which occur only in very cold weather. On flat and low slope roofs, expanding freezing ice can fracture with a terrific booming noise. Also, temperature-related movements in roofing materials can cause annoying roof noises that lead to building noise complaints by the occupants. See NOISE CONTROL for ROOFS for details.

Question: If a roof needs to be re roofed or if shingles need to be replaced, is November too late?

Reply: year round roofing procedures

In our opinion, no, not if proper cold-weather roofing procedures are followed. Experts install roofs throughout the year. However if your roofer is not an expert in cold-weather roofing the roof job may indeed not be properly executed and may leak or have a shorter life.

It is our OPINION however that the best roofing work is done in cool dry weather.

Too hot roof surfaces (asphalt shingle, roll roofing, modified bitumen) may be damaged by workers in very hot weather.

Too wet roof surfaces may result in materials being installed in violation of the roofing manufacturer's instructions, industry standards, and good practice, resulting in reduced roof life. Don't install roofing in the rain nor install roof coverings over wet surfaces.

Too cold roof surfaces and cold weather roofing conditions have a different set of concerns. Some examples of common cold weather snafus during re-roofing or new roof installation include:

Cracked shingles installed wherever shingles had to be bent, e.g. over a ridge or hip. Our roof ridge / hip cap shingle photo (left) shows both cracking wear and possibly foot traffic wear (and granule loss).
Inadequate nailing and hasty or sloppy shingle placement due to the rush that comes to some workers who are suffering cold fingers and general discomfort
Inadequate flashing or sealing, including later wind-damage if the shingle tabs didn't seal down well (requires sun exposure) before a wind storm occurs; use of mastics and sealants that don't work in low temperatures (there are now cold-weather approved caulks and sealants, and an expert warms the shingles to be bent by leaving them in a heated space until needed). See WIND DAMAGE to ROOFS for examples of wind damaged shingles

Question: Should a contractor remove leaves and sticks OR should a homeowner include this as part of their regular maintenance?

Reply: who is responsible for roof maintenance on a residential building?

This roof maintenance question needs some clarification before we can write a cogent answer.

A roofing contractor who is hired to install or repair a roof will have to remove debris as part of the job. If the roof does not otherwise need maintenance and repair, it is the homeowner responsibility to care for their roof just as for their yard, and their gutters. But as our roof debris (and moss) photos below show, some roof cleaning tasks are probably beyond the scope of an ordinary homeowner and would be dangerous for the homeowner to attempt, while other seemingly easy tasks still risk dangerous falls or damage to the roof itself.

Watch out: working on roofs and from ladders is inherently very dangerous. For people who lack the physical ability, knowledge, skill, and for high and steep-slope roofs, it's safer to hire an expert.

Watch out to make sure that your roof "expert" really is one. If you hire an amateur handyman who does not know safe procedures nor know just what's needed, the dangers include improper, inadequate work, reduced roof life, or worse, an injury.

See ALGAE, FUNGUS, LICHENS, MOSS on SHINGLES for one of several articles about moss and debris found on roofs.

Watch out for improper cleaning too: aggressive measures like power washers and even stiff brooms can damage shingles, removing their protective granules and reducing roof life.

See DEBRIS STAINING on ROOFS for examples of causes and steps to cure debris problems on building roofs.

Question: "What's newer"? Shingles installed 5 years ago or 2 years ago?

Reply: how do we predict the remaining age of a roof?

This is a trick question, right? Perhaps you are implying that five years ago roof products were better quality so would be "newer" in condition than poorer products on a chronologically newer roof? Perhaps you mean, which roof is likely to have a longer anticipated life? Or you are suggesting that more recent roof products are inferior to ones made five years ago? Nonsense.

Roof covering product quality varies by specific product, manufacturer, and even by occasional variations in the manufacturing process for a given roofing product.

Similarly, wide variations in the expected roof live may be traced very often to the roof installation and workmanship.

While we may be interested in knowing the chronological age of a roof as a way to guess its remaining life, a better rule of thumb used by home inspectors and roof inspectors is the wear age of a specific or individual roof.

In addition to the the quality of the shingles or other roofing materials, lots of factors influence the life of a roof covering

Even where workmanship and roof covering product quality are identical, not all roofs wear at the same rate. There are quite a few factors that affect the rate of wear on a roof (after excluding roof product quality or defects) including:

Roof shingle or other roof covering product quality
Roof covering material storage and handling. Believe it or not, leaving bundles of shingles unprotected from the weather for any length of time risks damage to the material and a shorter roof life.
Roof slope (steeper roofs drain better and resist water penetration as a result)
Roof color (lighter colors may resist the wear-effects of sunlight and heat)
Roof exposure (which way individual roof slopes and surfaces face affect the amount of sunlight and heat received by the surface)
Roof flashing installation details
Attic or roof cavity ventilation (ATTIC VENTILATION) affect the occurrence of moisture problems, ice dam leaks, and sometimes inadequate under-roof ventilation can cause or contribute to shingle curling (CURLING ASPHALT SHINGLES) and cupping (CUPPING ASPHALT SHINGLES) or "fishmouthing" (FISHMOUTHING ASPHALT SHINGLES) that in turn affect the life of the roof
Roof maintenance, for example keeping leaves and debris off of a roof, using non-damaging methods for roof cleaning
Roof installation workmanship, including the most important, most basic, and often ignored layout and nailing instructions provided by the roof covering manufacturer

For a more meaningful prediction of roof life: ask what is the roof's "wear age" ?

So if we see what looks like (or was claimed to be) a 20-year asphalt shingle roof, and in the judgment of an experienced roof inspector, a close inspection of the roof from outside and inside suggests that it's about half-way through it's predictable or usually-expected life, then we'd call the roof's wear age 10 years, even if the chronological age of the roof were different.

Watch out against giving a low "wear age" (longer remaining life) to an older roof without a close inspection.

Some wear signs such as shingle cracking and porosity and other shingle defects such as thermal splitting (CRACKS in FIBERGLASS SHINGLES) can be difficult or impossible to spot from ground level or even from a ladder at roof edge if the roof has other slopes or sections not accessible. (Roofs do not always wear equally on all slopes).

See ASPHALT SHINGLE LIFE / WEAR FACTORS for a list of factors that affect the life expectancy of an asphalt shingle roof.

See AGE OF ROOFING for help in determining the chronological or wear age of a building roof and for more factors that affect just how long a roof can be expected to last.

Question: How would a homeowner know if their shingles are newer and if algae growth is a risk?

Reply: AR - algae resistant shingles, & factors that affect algae stains on building roofs

Check to see if algae-resistant shingles or other algae-resistant roof covering materials were used. The manufacturers of mineral-granule-covered asphalt shingles indicate on on the package and/or in their product literature the algae resistance of various shingle products.

Nevertheless, algae-resistant is not "algae-proof" and green, brown, or black algae may show up on some roofs even where AR shingles were installed.

Other factors affect algae growth on roof surfaces include:

Under-roof ventilation (not enough),
Roof slope areas exposed to shade vs sun exposure (not always), including areas shaded by trees that may need to be trimmed back, areas shaded by other structural components
Roof maintenance - leaving debris on the roof keeps surface areas damp and shaded
Local climate - while we have seen algae growth on roof and other building surfaces throughout the U.S., Canada, and Mexico, including both cool and hot wet and hot dry climates, both hot wet and cool wet climates may increase algae growth rates on some roofs
Shingle or other roof covering chemistry: variations in the percentage and chemistry of algae-resistant mineral granules on the shingle surface.

There may also be variations even within a given shingle brand and product, as manufacturing consistency might vary, or as shingle storage-conditions (before the shingles were installed) may have varied from one building to another.

How to diagnose and remove or prevent algae stains on roofs

There may be other causes of black stains on roofs, including from debris and in some cases, EXTRACTIVE BLEEDING on SHINGLES. See STAIN DIAGNOSIS on ROOFS and if it's an algae problem, see ALGAE, FUNGUS, LICHENS, MOSS on SHINGLES for information about algae staining on roofs and see BLACK STAIN REMOVAL & PREVENTION for suggestions about cleaning black stains off of roof surfaces.

Question: What happens if old roof flashing isn't replaced with new flashing during re-roofing?

Reply: increased risk of roof leaks during a roof-over that relies on existing or old roof flashing

As our friend Mark Cramer, a building inspection educator likes to say, ... "It depends". [2]

Old flashing that is heavy, high quality material (such as heavy weight copper) might itself be fine depending on the location at which it is being left in place (for example at chimneys or roof sidewalls) for re-use by careful interleaving with the new roof shingles when they are installed. Other roof flashings (plumbing vents, valleys) really won't be properly integrated with the new roof surface if they are simply left "in place" below old roof materials during a re-roof (roof-over) job. (Some of these might be re-usable if the re-roof job includes removal of all of the old roof covering.)

What are the problems with relying on old roof flashing when re-roofing a building?

Roof flashing that is corroded, thin, worn, cracked, or otherwise damaged should not be relied upon when re-roofing. It should be replaced completely if a tear-off roof job is underway, or new flashing might be installed over old valley flashing during a roof-over.

Re-roof snafus at roof-sidewall and roof-chimney intersections

A basic problem with relying on old flashing to prevent roof leaks in the new roof covering is illustrated by flashing requirements at the roof-sidewall (the intersection of a lower roof surface with a vertical building wall) or at the abutment of the roof surface to the sides of a chimney.

Perhaps the old roof flashing and roof was not leaking at all in that location so the roofer and owner were happy just placing a new layer of shingles atop the old, with no new flashing whatsoever at the roof-wall abutment.

Leaks at roof-wall abutments or chimneys when relying on old roof flashing and when leaving old shingles in place

But properly installed step flashing at a roof-wall intersection is designed to bring water at each individual shingle back out onto the upper surface of the next shingle course below. Water that runs down the vertical wall or chimney side or that falls on the roof surface by the wall is constantly directed out onto the outer uppermost surface of the roof where it can drain away safely.

Chimney flashing details at left illustrate the positioning of step flashing and counterflashing along a vertical side wall or chimney surface. Courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates.

When a new layer of roof shingles is installed along the same abutting wall without its own step flashing and counter flashing, all of the water that runs down the wall or falls on to the roof surface in that area easily enters under the new layer of roof shingles where, depending on the conditions below water may run anywhere under the new roof covering and on top of the old roofing layer. Thus if there was a leak anywhere down-slope on the original roof, water entering at this roof-wall intersection has a better chance of finding it and leaking into the building, even though a new roof was installed above.

During a re-roof job, just gobbing on roof mastic or sealants is not a reliable substitute for properly-installed roof flashing

Later someone comes along and blobs flashing cement or mastic along the roof wall intersection to try to seal this un-flashed area. But because the various building materials expand and contract at different rates (wall, flashing, roofing, chimney side, roof deck, etc.), even a flexible mastic material is not a long term reliable substitute for properly installed flashing.

Roof flashing is intended to serve as a mechanical means of diverting water back onto the upper surface of roof shingles rather than permitting it to pass under the shingles where it finds a place to leak into the building.

When the installer stops relying on the mechanical drainage properties of flashing and relies instead on globbing on sealant, the risk of future leaks is increased. Even though there are some very good, durable, stick, flexible sealants on the market, the sealant has a difficult job to do: it has to bridge a variety of materials during times of widely changing temperatures.

Wood, copper, aluminum, asphalt shingles, roofing felt, roof decking plywood or boards, masonry chimneys, wall siding materials all have different coefficients of thermal expansion. That means pulling and tearing at the intersections where the installer relied on sealant. And often that leads to cracks or separation at the sealant, caulk, mastic, or other "flashing cement".

Re-using old flashing when old shingles have been removed may be OK

If the old roof shingles had been removed, and if the new shingle courses line up perfectly with the old step flashing left in place, then the old step flashing and counter flashing might be re-used with success, though there too there are some troubles to overcome. Removing the old roof shingles can leave the step flashing bent up away from the roof surface. If the roofer doesn't take steps to flatten out the old step flashing and leaves it curled up the new roof looks bad and may leak, especially during conditions of wind-blown rain. And the lifted shingles may fail prematurely.

Worse, "fixing" this curled lifted old, re-used step flashing by nailing down the flashing corners risks leaving a shingle penetration in the wrong location, where that too may leak.

Don't rely on thin, corroded, worn or damaged roof flashing materials when re-roofing

Old flashing that is crimped, cracked, leaky, punctured by nails now withdrawn, improperly installed in the first place, coated with roofing mastic (that corrodes through copper flashing even though it's a short term fix), is going to leak, especially in heavy rains, behind built-up on-roof debris, or when the roof is covered with wet snow (in such climates).

Distinguish between a tear-off re-roof job and a "roof over" re-roof job

It's useful to distinguish between a complete tear-off re-roof job and a "roof-over" job at which an additional layer of shingles is installed atop the existing covering.

A complete roof tear off won't leave any flashings on the roof except perhaps the counter-flashing at a chimney. In our photo (left) the roofer is removing all of multiple layers of roofing before installing a new asphalt shingle roof on this home.

So leaving old flashing isn't much of an issue except that when the new roof and flashing are installed around the chimney (or at the abutment of an upper sidewall or dormer to the lower roof surface) the counter flashing may need to be carefully bent down and sealed against wind-blown rain leaks.

A roof-over job too often leaves all old flashings in place for the obvious reason that to remove it means removing part of the old shingles that means in turn an uneven surface under the new shingles (unless it's built-up level using shingle pieces). At a roof valley where the old flashing is in excellent condition, both old and new layers of shingles may need to be sealed along the valley. That approach leads to come confusion about what flashing is, what it's for, and how it works.

See FLASHING, ASPHALT SHINGLE VALLEYS

See FLASHING ROOF-WALL SNAFU for roof-wall flashing SNAFUs to avoid

Roof Snafu case history: "My new roof is leaking like mad every time it rains! ... "

An pediatrician acquaintance in Poughkeepsie, NY, H.L., called me in desperation.

HL "Dan, my new roof is leaking like mad every time it rains!"

The low-bid roofer got the job.

Now I have to add that H.L. is a tightwad who pressed every bidder for his roof replacement to come in at the lowest possible price. He gave the job to the lowest bidder.

No roof flashing was installed anywhere.

I inspected the roof and found that following a complete tear-off, NO roof flashing had been installed anywhere. No flashing at the plumbing vents, no flashing at the chimneys, no roof flashing at the upper sidewall abutment to roof locations.

The roofer said that roof flashing would be an extra charge!

DF "H. I see that your roof has no flashing. Didn't the roofer discuss this with you ?"
HL "Well sure. He said he could "do" flashings but that the flashing would be "extra" so I decided to just skip it."
DF "I think your roofer was so anxious to win the job that he was less than straightforward with you. If he'd had any sense and wanted to avoid an argument later when your roof leaked, the roofer should have said 'Look Dr. L, the flashing will be an extra cost, but I'm warning you that if you don't have me install it, your roof will leak every time it rains."

Who really caused this leaky roof-job?

The roofer desperately wanted the job.

The homeowner desperately wanted the lowest price.

In my OPINION the homeowner was partly responsible for causing his leaky roof trouble because of his insistence on squeezing the last dime out of his roofing contractor.

But the roofing contractor was responsible for not making sure the client understood that flashing is required at roof penetrations and abutments and that without it the roof would sooner or later leak. In this case it was sooner- at the first rain.

The roofer should make clear to the client the significance of the different roofing choices being offered - in terms not just of cost but of roof durability.

The lowest price for your re-roof job is not always really the lowest cost.

More advice about choosing a roofing contractor is at CHOOSING A ROOFING CONTRACTOR

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COLD WEATHER ROOF TROUBLE

WINTERIZE A BUILDING

[1] The winter and cold-weather roof worries discussed here are an edited, expanded version of winter and cold weather roof SNAFUs questions asked by Kathleen Adele Fieffe for Mike Holmes Magazine, and answered by the InspectApedia.com staff, August 2011, personal communications, KF with DJF.Ms Fieffe can be reached at kathleenadele@gmail.com. Unfortunately and despite some exceptionally confusing text about it's status at holmesmagazine.com/, it appears that Mr. Holmes magazine ceased publication with its December 2011 issue.
Mark Cramer Inspection Services Mark Cramer, Tampa Florida, Mr. Cramer is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors and is a Florida home inspector and home inspection educator. Contact Mark Cramer at: 727-595-4211 mark@BestTampaInspector.com 11/06
[2] op cit.
Steven Bliss served as editorial director and co-publisher of The Journal of Light Construction for 16 years and previously as building technology editor for Progressive Builder and Solar Age magazines. He worked in the building trades as a carpenter and design/build contractor for more than ten years and holds a masters degree from the Harvard Graduate School of Education. Excerpts from his recent book, Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, Wiley (November 18, 2005) ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, appear throughout this website, with permission and courtesy of Wiley & Sons. Best Practices Guide is available from the publisher, J. Wiley & Sons, and also at Amazon.com.
Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 info@carsondunlop.com. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission to use illustrations from their publication, The Illustrated Home which illustrates construction details and building components. Carson Dunlop provides home inspection education including the ASHI-adopted Home Inspection Training Program (home study course), publications such as the Home Reference Book, report writing materials including the Horizon report writer, and home inspection services. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 2010, $69.00 U.S., is available from Carson Dunlop. The Home Reference Book is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. InspectAPedia.com ^® author/editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.

Best Practices Guide to Residential Construction, by Steven Bliss. John Wiley & Sons, 2006. ISBN-10: 0471648361, ISBN-13: 978-0471648369, Hardcover: 320 pages, available from Amazon.com and also Wiley.com. See our book review of this publication.
Decks and Porches, the JLC Guide to, Best Practices for Outdoor Spaces, Steve Bliss (Editor), The Journal of Light Construction, Williston VT, 2010 ISBN 10: 1-928580-42-4, ISBN 13: 978-1-928580-42-3, available from Amazon.com
The Journal of Light Construction has generously given reprint permission to InspectAPedia.com for this article. All rights and contents are ©Journal of Light Construction and may not be reproduced in any form.
Architectural elements: the technological revolution: Galvanized iron roof plates and corrugated sheets; cast iron facades, columns, door and window caps, ... (American historical catalog collection), Diana S Waite, available used out of Amazon.
Asphalt Roofing Residential Manual,
Building Pathology, Deterioration, Diagnostics, and Intervention, Samuel Y. Harris, P.E., AIA, Esq., ISBN 0-471-33172-4, John Wiley & Sons, 2001 [General building science-DF] ISBN-10: 0471331724 ISBN-13: 978-0471331728
Building Pathology: Principles and Practice, David Watt, Wiley-Blackwell; 2 edition (March 7, 2008) ISBN-10: 1405161035 ISBN-13: 978-1405161039
Built-Up Roof Systems, Manual, C.W. Griffin, Mcgraw-Hill (Tx); 2nd edition (July 1982), ISBN-10: 0070247838, ISBN-13: 978-0070247833
Concrete Folded Plate Roofs, C. Wilby PhD BSc CEng FICE FIStructE (Author), Butterworth-Heinemann, 1998, ISBN-10: 0340662662, ISBN-13: 978-0340662663
Concrete Shell Roofs, C. Wilby PhD BSc CEng FICE FIStructE (Author),
Concrete Dome Roofs (Longman Concrete Design and Construction Series),
Concrete Roofing Tile, History of the, Batsford, 1959, AISN B000HLLOUC (available used)
Copper Roofing, by CDA
Copper Roofing, Master specifications for copper roofing and sheet metal work in building construction: Institutional, commercial, industrial, I.E. Anderson, 1961 (hard to find)
Corrugated Iron, Building on the Frontier, Simon Holloway
Green Roof Plants: A Resource and Planting Guide, Edmund C. Snodgrass, Lucie L. Snodgrass, Timber Press, Incorporated, 2006, ISBN-10: 0881927872, ISBN-13: 978-0881927870. The text covers moisture needs, heat tolerance, hardiness, bloom color, foliage characteristics, and height of 350 species and cultivars.
Green Roof Construction and Maintenance, Kelley Luckett, McGraw-Hill Professional, 2009, ISBN-10: 007160880X, ISBN-13: 978-0071608800, quoting: Key questions to ask at each stage of the green building process Tested tips and techniques for successful structural design Construction methods for new and existing buildings Information on insulation, drainage, detailing, irrigation, and plant selection Details on optimal soil formulation Illustrations featuring various stages of construction Best practices for green roof maintenance A survey of environmental benefits, including evapo-transpiration, storm-water management, habitat restoration, and improvement of air quality Tips on the LEED design and certification process Considerations for assessing return on investment Color photographs of successfully installed green roofs Useful checklists, tables, and charts
Handbook of Building Crafts in Conservation, Jack Bower, Ed., Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, NY 1981 ISBN 0-442-2135-3 Library of Congress Catalog Card Nr. 81-50643.
Historic Preservation Technology: A Primer, Robert A. Young, Wiley (March 21, 2008) ISBN-10: 0471788368 ISBN-13: 978-0471788362
Historic Slate Roofs : With How-to Info and Specifications, Tina Skinner (Ed), Schiffer Publishing, 2008, ISBN-10: 0764330012 , ISBN-13: 978-0764330018
Low Slope Roofing, Manual of, 4th Ed., C.W. Griffin, Richard Fricklas, McGraw-Hill Professional; 4 edition, 2006, ISBN-10: 007145828X, ISBN-13: 978-0071458283
- Roof failure causes in depth (and specific methods for avoiding them)
- Roof design fundamentals and flourishes, based on voluminous industry research and experience
- New technologies and materials -- using them safely and correctly
- Comprehensive coverage of all major roofing systems pecifications, inspection, and maintenance tools for roofing work
Metal Roofing, an Illustrated Guide, R.A. Knowlton , [metal shingle roofs],
Patio Roofs, how to build, Sunset Books
Problems in Roofing Design, B. Harrison McCampbell, Butterworth Heineman, 1991 ISBN 0-7506-9162-X (available used)
Roofing The Right Way, Steven Bolt, McGraw-Hill Professional; 3rd Ed (1996), ISBN-10: 0070066507, ISBN-13: 978-0070066502
Slate Roofs, National Slate Association, 1926, reprinted 1977 by Vermont Structural Slate Co., Inc., Fair Haven, VT 05743, 802-265-4933/34. (We recommend this book if you can find it. It has gone in and out of print on occasion.)
Roof Tiling & Slating, a Practical Guide, Kevin Taylor, Crowood Press (2008), ISBN 978-1847970237,
If you have never fixed a roof tile or slate before but have wondered how to go about repairing or replacing them, then this is the book for you. Many of the technical books about roof tiling and slating are rather vague and conveniently ignore some of the trickier problems and how they can be resolved. In Roof Tiling and Slating, the author rejects this cautious approach. Kevin Taylor uses both his extensive knowledge of the trade and his ability to explain the subject in easily understandable terms, to demonstrate how to carry out the work safely to a high standard, using tried and tested methods.
This clay roof tile guide considers the various types of tiles, slates, and roofing materials on the market as well as their uses, how to estimate the required quantities, and where to buy them. It also discusses how to check and assess a roof and how to identify and rectify problems; describes how to efficiently "set out" roofs from small, simple jobs to larger and more complicated projects, thus making the work quicker, simpler, and neater; examines the correct and the incorrect ways of installing background materials such as underlay, battens, and valley liners; explains how to install interlocking tiles, plain tiles, and artificial and natural slates; covers both modern and traditional methods and skills, including cutting materials by hand without the assistance of power tools; and provides invaluable guidance on repairs and maintenance issues, and highlights common mistakes and how they can be avoided. The author, Kevin Taylor, works for the National Federation of Roofing Contractors as a technical manager presenting technical advice and providing education and training for young roofers.
The Slate Roof Bible, Joseph Jenkins, www.jenkinsslate.com, 143 Forest Lane, PO Box 607, Grove City, PA 16127 - 866-641-7141 (We recommend this book).
Slate Roofing in Canada (Studi4es in archaeology, architecture, and history),
Smart Guide: Roofing: Step-by-Step Projects, Creative Homeowner (Ed), 2004, ISBN-10: 1580111491, ISBN-13: 978-1580111492
Solar heating, radiative cooling and thermal movement: Their effects on built-up roofing (United States. National Bureau of Standards. Technical note), William C Cullen, Superintendent of Documents, U.S. Govt. Print. Off (1963), ASIN: B0007FTV2Q
Tile Roofs of Alfred: A Clay Tradition in Alfred NY
"Weather-Resistive Barriers [copy on file as /interiors/Weather_Resistant_Barriers_DOE.pdf ] - ", how to select and install housewrap and other types of weather resistive barriers, U.S. DOE
Wood Shingle Roofs, Care and Maintenance of wood shingle and shake roofs (EC), Stanley S. Niemiec (out of print)
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Winter & Cold Weather Roof Troubles: Q&A [1]

Question: Besides ice dams, what other winter issues can hurt your roof?

Reply: List of winter problems, risks, and damage to building roofs besides ice dams

Question: If a roof needs to be re roofed or if shingles need to be replaced, is November too late?

Reply: year round roofing procedures

Question: Should a contractor remove leaves and sticks OR should a homeowner include this as part of their regular maintenance?

Reply: who is responsible for roof maintenance on a residential building?

Question: "What's newer"? Shingles installed 5 years ago or 2 years ago?

Reply: how do we predict the remaining age of a roof?

In addition to the the quality of the shingles or other roofing materials, lots of factors influence the life of a roof covering

For a more meaningful prediction of roof life: ask what is the roof's "wear age" ?

Question: How would a homeowner know if their shingles are newer and if algae growth is a risk?

Reply: AR - algae resistant shingles, & factors that affect algae stains on building roofs

Other factors affect algae growth on roof surfaces include:

How to diagnose and remove or prevent algae stains on roofs

Question: What happens if old roof flashing isn't replaced with new flashing during re-roofing?

Reply: increased risk of roof leaks during a roof-over that relies on existing or old roof flashing

What are the problems with relying on old roof flashing when re-roofing a building?

Re-roof snafus at roof-sidewall and roof-chimney intersections

Leaks at roof-wall abutments or chimneys when relying on old roof flashing and when leaving old shingles in place

During a re-roof job, just gobbing on roof mastic or sealants is not a reliable substitute for properly-installed roof flashing

Re-using old flashing when old shingles have been removed may be OK

Don't rely on thin, corroded, worn or damaged roof flashing materials when re-roofing

Distinguish between a tear-off re-roof job and a "roof over" re-roof job

Roof Snafu case history: "My new roof is leaking like mad every time it rains! ... "

The low-bid roofer got the job.

No roof flashing was installed anywhere.

The roofer said that roof flashing would be an extra charge!

Who really caused this leaky roof-job?

The lowest price for your re-roof job is not always really the lowest cost.

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