Inspecting &Testing the Septic System Distribution Box

SEPTIC D-BOX INSPECTION - How to find the septic drainfield D-box - septic distribution box
Questions & Answers about septic system D-box installation, inspection, troubleshooting, and repair or replacement
References

Click to Show or Hide Related Topics

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

Septic system D box inspection, diagnosis, and repair: here we describe the best procedures for locating and inspecting, repairing or replacing the septic drainfield distribution box, or the "D-box" or "Splitter box". This series of articles discusses Inspection and Reporting the Condition of Private Residential Waste Disposal Systems - or - Where Does it Go When I Flush? and ... Will We Meet Again?

INSPECTING THE D-BOX - Inspecting the Septic System Distribution Box

The distribution box (more than one may be in use) connects a single effluent line from the septic tank to a network of absorption system components such as drainfield leach lines or to a network of seepage pits or galleys.

The photo (left) shows the adjustable weir outlets that permit balancing flow among drainfield lines. (Source EPA who used photo from Ayres Associates.) More sketches of D-box layouts and configurations are shown in this EPA drawing.

Regulating effluent distribution: In good system design the outlet openings from the distribution box to each drainfield line can be adjusted to regulate the flow among the various absorption lines.

Elegantly simple, a plug with an eccentric hole is inserted into the end of each leach line fed from the D-box. By turning the plug in the end of the leach line pipe one can place the eccentric hole higher or lower with respect to the bottom of the distribution box, thus compensating for a slightly tipped box, differences in leach line length, or differences in leach line condition.

Uneven effluent distribution: If a distribution box becomes tipped (or clogged) effluent may be routed to only a portion of the absorption system, thus overloading it and leading to a "breakout" of effluent at the surface or to clogging and system backup.

An examination of the septic system distribution box interior may show flood lines in the box if the drain field has been clogged or saturated in the past even if at the time of inspection the box is not flooded.

If the septic drainfields have been flooded you should be pessimistic about the remaining life of the absorption system.

If the septic drainfield distribution box is tipped and/or septic system effluent arriving from the septic tank has not been uniformly distributed among the drainfield lines (assuming they are of equal length and in equally good soils), only a simple adjustment of the outflow may be needed.

Round plugs with eccentric openings may be present or can be inserted in the D-box outlet openings to regulate flow among the individual absorption lines. (C)Trap Daniel Friedman Copyright Protected text. Also see ALTERNATING BED SEPTIC SYSTEMS.

Tipped or flooded distribution boxes, resulting in uneven loading of soil absorption system lines. This condition can flood one or two lines leading to early field failure.

Signs of D-Box Trouble, Advice on Repairs

Question: Tipped septic effluent distribution box, standing water at end of one leach line

Septic D box in trouble (C) Daniel Friedman N Day

I am being told that my D box is bad. When no levelers are in place all effluent runs into only one port.

I have been told that the way that fitting is angled down low and how it comes in angled is bad. It is making me worried. I am essentially being old that it should be redone.

We have Type III soils, very sandy with 2 - 75' long infiltrators. Three years ago during the wet season I noticed some standing water at the end of one of the laterals.

It was the lateral that receives all the effluent when no levelers are in place. - Nicholas Day

Reply:

We were not sure from the two photos but the D-box looks small, and as if it has been invaded by sewage (suggesting the tank was not pumped on schedule or your tank baffles may be bad).

With thanks to clarifications from reader Doug (March 2013), we recap the effluent distribution piping connections to this D-box as follows:

At left: the down-facting elbow marks the effluent inlet to the D-box. The elbow is intended to prevent effluent from short-circuiting through the box to the opposing outlet. The downward pointing effluent promotes even flow through the box and into the two outlets.

Without the elbow, effluent flows more forcibly across the box and into the opposing outlet, but very little effluent will make the 90-degree turn into the perpendicular outlet. This is a very common installation practice

We can see at least two effluent utlets, at the photo's top and bottom. There could have been a third outlet at the right end of the box - one can't quite see for sure. If you look closely at the photo [click to enlarge this or any InspectAPedia image], you can see the teeth on the adjustable outflow limiter, which is installed almost flush with the box wall.

If you knew for example that one of your lines was much longer than the other, you'd send more effluent to the longer line - presuming they are both working ok.

As you report that one of the laterals showed a sign of failure during wet weather several years ago, you might want to try to re-balance the effluent flow sending more (or perhaps temporarily, most) of the effluent into the other drainfield line. But to have an accurate idea of the condition of the drainfield sections or leach lines before adjusting the effluent flow in your D-Box, the best step would be to carefully excavate near the end of each of the two leach lines (presuming you don't already have inspection ports installed). Look at the condition of the soils there, particularly, look for standing water or effluent.

Because the D-box is a small thing and not deep, it shouldn't be a big job nor too costly to dig it out, install a larger one, make sure the D-box is not tipped, and that effluent is flowing as desired into both of the drainfield lines.

But you should also check the septic tank condition, especially the outlet baffle, and the scum/sludge levels, to be sure the tank is pumped on schedule (SEPTIC TANK PUMPING SCHEDULE) and that the baffles are in place and working. (SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES).

Another problem that could send sludge into the D-box would be a septic tank that floods from groundwater leaking into it, so you will want to check that too. At also see SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE, and SEPTIC TANK INSPECTION PROCEDURE, and finally, see Septic Tank Leaks.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about septic system distribution box (D-box) troubleshooting

Question: water is leaking out of my distribution box. Should the lid be sealed?

I have septic water leaking out of my distribution box. I the lid suppose to be sealed or does it just sit on top?? My system is is pumped up hill to a ditribution box - Robert

Reply: water leaking into or out of a D-box is a sign of trouble that needs investigation and repair;

Water leaking out of the distribution box

If you see "water" leaking out of the septic drainfield D-box it's a sign of trouble. I suspect one of two typical causes.

The soils around the septic field may be saturated with groundwater, flooding the drainfield and backing up and out through the D-box cover. Just sealing the cover wouldn't fix anything in this case. You'd need to divert groundwater away from the drainfield.
The septic drainfield or leaching beds may be saturated from having become clogged - at end of life. If this is the case the backup of effluent is occurring because the soil is no longer absorbing effluent. You'll need to investigate to decide if the problem is a blocked or damaged or clogged drainfield line or if the whole field needs replacement.

Water leaking into the distribution box

You don't want surface or ground water leaking into the D-box since in any quantity that water will flood the drainfield. If the D-box cover fits pretty flush and smooth atop the distribution box, the amount of water that leaks in through the top should be trivial. If the top is quite uneven and leaky, and if you can't correct surface drainage to keep water away from the distribution box you might need to add a compressible rubber or foam gasket between the D-box lid and the edges of the distribution box itself to reduce leaks there. Don't cement the distribution box lid in place or you won't be able to open it for inspection, adjustment, or repair.

Question: distance from the septic tank to the D-box?

how far away from the septic tank is the dbox?? - Kristin Clary

How far from the main tank is the D box located on average? - Fishass

Reply: Distance from the Septic tank to the D-Box:

Kristin & Fishass: there is not a fixed distance from the septic tank to the distribution box; rather, its location depends on the space for and layout of the septic drainfield. But you can often get a fair idea where the D-box is likely to be by any of several means:

- running a snake or probe from the septic tank outlet until it stops will give the distance to the D-box (probably)

- look for a depression in the ground a couple of feet in diameter and between the septic tank and the drainfield.

- Look at the site layout for where the D-box could possibly be located. For example, if the drainfield site is level and rectangular, the D-box would typically be at or near the edge of the drainfield closest to the septic tank.

See SEPTIC DRAWINGS for some sketches that give an idea where the distribution box is typically found.

Question: are the pipes from the D-box solid or perforated?

are the pipes leading from the dboxI have a drywell system) solid or perferated, , one side of the yard is very wet, the other side seems bone dry, could one the pipes either clogged or the other broken, not sure which one to dig up 1st - Joe M

Reply: It depends on septic drainfield layout

Joe the use of solid vs. perforated pipes downstream from the D-box would depend on the septic field layout, but typically from the D-box there will be a solid effluent-carrying pipe serving as a manifold that then feeds individual perforated lines in drainfield trenches.

In theory in my OPINION there is nothing preventing the beginning of gravel-trenches quite close to the d-box, in which case wherever the pipe is running in a gravel trench intended to absorb effluent, the pipe would be perforated. But I would NOT run perforated effluent piping through mere soil backfill (i.e. not a gravel-filled trench) as you'd be inviting soil infiltration and clogging of the line.

Question: during a septic test the trenches "took on water" - they think the D box is kiltered. What does that mean and how do I fix it?

I had a Hydraulic Load test done and the trenches were taking on water...they think the D box is kiltered. Can you explain this and what are the recommendations to have it fixed? - Reen

Reply: a tipped d-box does not distribute effluent evenly among the drainfield lines and can cause flooded drainfields

Sure Reen: someone is making things sound like rocket science instead of simple ditch-digging.

A "kiltered" Dbox is lingo for a "tipped distribution box". As you can read above, the D-box is basically a plumging junction box that receives incoming effluent from the septic tank and routes it out to multiple drainfield lines where the effluent can be further treated and absorbed into the ground. If the D-box is "tipped" that means it's sending too much effluent down just one line (perhaps flooding it) and not enough effluent down other lines (not using them).

Also if surface runoff or ground water is leaking INTO your D-box, that water will add to the septic effluent liquid load and risks flooding and ruining the drainfields.

Question: The d-box is not distributing effluent evenly among my three drywells. Is it likely to be a tipped d box or a clog?

I have an old 3-drywell system fed from a d-box in the center of the 3 drywells (laid out on 3 points of an equilateral triangle). The system has had minimal use but one drywell is full and the other 2 are bone dry. Should they all be being fed in parallel or in series (one fills before the next)? Is there likely a tip or a clog? - Jeff O

Reply: Drywells are often installed and fed in series; if yours are in parallel, set the D box to send effluent to all of them.

Often drywells were installed in series - not in parallel. If that's how yours were piped, then if you can confirm that the full drywell has an outlet pipe that drains into the next (dry) one in the series you should be OK. If that connection is missing I'd add it.

Question: My d box is damaged, can I just eliminate it and plumb directly to the leach field lines?

My d- box is only covered by 2" of dirt, I think the harsh winter last year did it in. Is it possible to just plumb the outlet from wetlands to the two drain field pipe?
I have excavated the box and there is a plastic bottom to it, the waste water is flowing into the fields evenly - Dave Brannen

Reply: yes but just in emergency - it's better to replace and set the D-box properly

Dave,

While you could just connect the effluent line from the septic tank directly to one or more drainfield lines using tees and elbows, what is lost by that approach is the ability to

- adjust or change the amount of effluent flow among drainfield lines in order to rest a line, avoid a low line that tends to flood, or otherwise balance effluent flow

- inspect the system for signs that one or more leachfield lines is in trouble

- assure that flow is properly balanced among the various drainfield lines

You have to figure that builders and septic installers don't waste time and money on components - there was a reason for the D-box in the first place. So while I agree that in an emergency, to keep the septic system in use, it's ok to make a TEMPORARY connection such as you describe.

But because your D-box is not deeply buried, because D-boxes are not expensive, and because they serve a useful purpose, the proper repair is to replace the damaged distribution box, set the new one to the proper depth, make sure it's level, and then install and set effluent flow balancing devices at the entry to each of the leach lines fed out of the D box.

Question: What's the difference between a septic system D-box and a Splitter?

What is the difference in splitter box and a D box? - T.C.

Reply: why we might need a Zoeller Tru-Flow Splitter inplace of a conventional Septic D-box - alternating drainfields & effluent flow balancing

Basically there is no difference in function between a D-box and a Splitter box. All D-boxes have some capability of adjusting the flow of effluent among different D-box outlets - a techique that can extend drainfield life by giving some drainfield sections a rest for two years or so between services. In some literature the control that permits diverting effluent among drainfield segments, or shutting it off entirely, is called a splitter valve.[4] In other installations, a simple manual plug or cap is inserted or adjusted at each outlet opening inside the distribution box.

Some "splitter" boxes such as Zoellers are more sophisticated than the simple concrete or plastic Distribution Boxes illustrated in the article above.[3]

Zoeller Pump Co who make septic system grinder pumps and other onsite wastewater piping and pump components, also produce and sell component that most of us call a "distribution box" and that accomplishes that function - routing effluent among drainfield lines: the Zoeller Splitter System. What's the difference?

In a convenational concrete D-box, it's just that: a plastic or concrete or fiberglass "box" into which one pipe delivers septic effluent from the septic tank, and from which two or more pipes carry effluent to drainfield trenches, galleys, or other disposal sysems. The box routes effluent among the various lines and if properly installed we hope effluent is distributed evenly. Some D-boxes include a round cover with an eccencrtic hole that can be rotated up or down to balance the efflent load among different drainfield sections.

Higher velocity pumped septic effluent may require careful effluent distribution control in the D-box - the Splitter

Zoeller's Splitter uses a series of internal baffles to control the routing of effluent among drainfield lines. One rason we might need the baffles and more precise control of effluent distribution through the D-box (or Splitter) is that Zoeller, who manufacture sewage grinder pumps and septic effluent pumps, (we pose) may have found that pumped septic effluent arrives in the Splitter (or D-box) at a higher velocity than effluent that drains into the box from a septic tank by gravity.

At high velocity, effluent entering a conventional D-box may not flow uniformly among the multiple box outlets - instead it would charge across the box and flow mostly into the effluent line directly across from the inlet pipe. Zoeller's baffles appear intended to prevent that problem by diverting flow uniformly among the various Splitter box outlets.

Zoeller's Tru-Flow [D-box] Splitter system includes diverter adjustments that help you fine tune and balance the effluent flow among various drainfield sections. The system can handle varying septic flow rates depending on the number of openings in use in the "box" - that is, depending on the number of outlets and drainfield sections that are in use.

Septic Effluent Flow Rate Capacity - Zoeller's Tru-Flo Splitter [D-box]
Number of outlet openings (drainfield segments fed)	Maximum effluent inflow rate handled by the Splitter
5 openings	30 gpm
4 openings	21 gpm
3 openings	17 gpm
2 openings	13 gpm

See our contact information for Zoeller at the reviewers section at the end of this article for a link to the Zoeller D-Box-Splitter for septic effluent distribution system information.

Watch out: Zoeller warns that if you use this device, which does a more careful job of routing effluent among the different drainfield branches, it is clog-prone if you don't include a septic filter in the system at the effluent outlet end. Indeed, an effluent filter will protect and extend the life of any drainfield and its components.

Question: Clogged D-box Repair Procedures?

I have a system with a pump station that pumps gray water uphill about 50 yards. Today I noticed water percolating out of the ground near my drain field. I started digging and found what I assume is the d box. It was packed full of roots and the plastic seal around the pipe coming from the pump had been pushed out by the roots. I removed the roots but I could not remove the seal from the box. It has 5 more holes in it which 4 are closed and the other has a pipe leading to another concrete box 4-5 feet further out. The second box is much deeper than the first. It appears that the pipes T out after the first box. More digging tomorrow. I ran the pump after replacing the lid and packing dirt around the pipe but it just came out of the box instead of going through the system. The downstream pipe is open.
Can the seal be replaced around the incoming pipe or should the box be replaced?
Do the other "boxes" typically have a lid like the first one does? I was wondering if I should dig them up and check for clogs.

The system is 9 years old and is pumped every year.

Thanks for any info and for this great website.

Kenneth M. 1/8/2012

Reply:

Clogged:

Sure, if the D-box has become clogged by roots, and probably tipped and askew too, it needs to be cleaned, leveled, and the surrounding roots cut back to slow their re-invasion. Because you have just one pipe in and one pipe out of this D-box, and because you found a second deeper distribution box on your septic system, I suspect the first one is an access or inspection port and a connection between pipes, not much more. Ultimately, presuming there is more than one leach line at your drainfield, there will be a D-box that distributes effluent among multiple lines - you'll want to find and check the condition of that device. The T-pipes you describe make it sound as if the septic installer forgot what the D-box was for but just stuck one in anyway. Too bad.

About the damaged seal on the first D-box, the choices are to replace the whole unit (this is not a costly part) or you could try cutting away the offending roots and digging around the pipe that enters or leaves the D-box, pouring concrete around the pipe at the outside of the D-box to try to get a decent seal.

Question: one side of my fields never dries out, we installed speed levelers and a new D-box. Should we cap off the wet area lines?

I have 8 lines coming off my d box. my yard is slightly pitch to one side. that side also sees most of the rain water. The surface never seems to fully dry like my other lines. speed levelers were installed when the dbox was replaced. should those 2 lines be capped and shut off for a while to regain a better saturation point? i you, JB 5/10/12

Reply:

JB:

I agree with your idea to cap off saturated drainfield lines. Drainfield trenches tend to wear out (clog the soil) beginning at the trench end most distant from the D-box, slowly working the clogging back towards the D-box. Giving the drainfield a rest for 5 years or more might help those sections recover provided that they are not being soaked from some other water source.

Keep in mind that effluent breakout at ground surface is not only a failure indicator, it is unsanitary. In sum, if the area is wet, the effluent distribution lines in that area are not treating efflent anyway, just contaminating the environment.

Finally, if the wet area were in say the last 5 feet of a 60-foot line, you might try excavating and capping off the wet ends to see if that gives you longer use of the rest of the leaach line.

Question: How to repair a bad D-box lid or cover

My D box is level, it flows nicely and is made of concrete. Unfortunately the lid has failed and the sides are starting to crumble. Do I have to replace the whole box or could I simply form and pour concrete around the old one? Would this be an acceptable repair method? - Scott 5/1/12

Reply:

Scott, if you can repair the dbox to be water tight in place that's fine, but I worry its a wasted effort ad if it's crumbling the original concrete mix may have been bad - if so the box will continue to crumble - replacement may be in order and not too costly. Certainly you don't want to pour a new "lid" in place that seals the D-box making it impossible to open, inspect, adjust, in the future.

Question: standing water over the [septic tank?] cleanout covers

Question:

our cleanout access covers get about an inch of water on it when we run the washer and shower in the house. The water comes up quickly on just the cover and then two minutes later it's gone. We have the tank cleaned once to twice a year; we call the company that cleaned it and the are telling us they need to dig up the D box. I have chedk the yard and there is standing water anywhere. Does diging up the D box sound correct. Or sholuld they just check for a clog? - John 6/26/12

Reply:

John if the septic tank or dbox is flooding as you describe it sounds as if the fields are clogged or flooded. Your system is in trouble, needs diagnosis and repair for sure. Because it's easy and quick it's a great quick-check to look into the D-box to see what's going on.

Open the D-box covers, flush a few toilets in the home, or run the washer, and watch in the D-box. If you see efflent entering and flooding the box then we figure the outlet lines and drainfield are either blocked or saturated.

Start a more throughou inspection at the septic tank, include piping to the D-box, the D-box, and the fields. For example if the tank inspection shows us that the tank baffles are gone, we know we've been pushing solids into and ruining the fields.

Question: Repairman says hard water will ruin my water treatment system and drainfield

xI have hard water and treat it with a culligan system. My neighbor had a title five and needed to have his D-box replaced to pass. The repairman said the whole street will have the same problem because of hard water will my treated water system help or hurt my system - Kevin 9/29/12

How do they test for Title 5?

Reply:

Kevin,

Water softeners, installed to improve water that is too high in mineral content, do not specifically attack D-boxes, but an improperly adjusted softener can increase salt dose into a drainfield, impacting its function and life, and a softener stuck in backwash mode can flood the field.

And it doesn't quite make sense to me for your repairman to say that hard water will damage your water softener. The purpose of the water softener is to treat hard water. That's its job.

Search InspectApedia for

Water Softener Impact on Septic Systems

to read the details.

If you search InspectAPedia for

Massachusetts Septic System Testing Law

you'll find a discussion of the law, specifications, and test procedures. It's more than a "test" - involving site inspection, history, water table depth, etc.

...

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Questions & answers or comments about septic system D-box installation, inspection, troubleshooting, and repair or replacement.

Ask a Question or Enter Search Terms in the InspectApedia search box just below.

Technical Reviewers & References

Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.

[1] Readers of this page should also see System Design Regulations 75-A.7 Distribution lines, distribution boxes, gravity flow, pressure distribution, dosing, siphons design specifications for septic systems.
[2] Thanks to reader Nicholas Day for discussing D-box troubles and repairs, September 2010
[3] Zoeller Pump Company, 3649 Cane Run Rd., Louisville, KY 40211, Phone: 1-800-928-7867, 502-778-2731 Fax: 502-774-3624. Technical support and/or quote related emails: zcotechnical@zoeller.com. Zoeller produces just about every kind of septic, sewage, effluent, grinder, and sump pump. Homeowners who need a sewage pump are asked to contact their local representative or retail sales outlet. Zoeller classes their pumps into these categories:
- Grinder pumps, such as Zoeller's 810/815 Turnkey Grinder Systems, 800-series Grinder Pumps, Cold-Climate grinder pumps, Simplex prepackaged grinder pump systems, and Simplex and Duplex (two pumps) grinder systems including four outdoor use.
- Utility, pedestal, & gas engine pumps. These are portable gas-engine powered pumps used typically in construction, service, or emergencies
- Sewage & Dewatering pumps, such as certain Aqua-Mate Models and Waste-Mate models, and Sewage-Waste 600-series pumps
- Splitter for septic effluent distribution. Web search 5/1/12, original source
  https://app.qleapahead.com/rtp/LibraryGet.aspx?asset=85356,63 [copy on file as septic/D-boxes/Zoeller_D-BOx_Splittert.pdf ] Website: www.zoeller.com
- Sump, Effluent, Dewatering pumps, such as Water Ridd'r , Mighty-Mate, Aqua-Mate, Flow-Mate, and High Head Flow-Mate pumps - of certain models - be sure to read the manufacturer's intended use for a pump model before purchasing it
[4] "Drainfield Rehabilitation", Pipeline, Winter 2005, Vol. 16, No. 1, NESC, National Environmental Services Center, 800-624-8301 [copy on file as [/septic/D-boxes/NESC_2005-16_1.pdf
[5] Advanced Onsite Wastewater Systems Technologies, Anish R. Jantrania, Mark A. Gross. Anish Jantrania, Ph.D., P.E., M.B.A., is a Consulting Engineer, in Mechanicsville VA, 804-550-0389 (2006). Outstanding technical reference especially on alternative septic system design alternatives. Written for designers and engineers, this book is not at all easy going for homeowners but is a text I recommend for professionals--DF.
[6] Builder's Guide to Wells and Septic Systems, Woodson, R. Dodge: $ 24.95; MCGRAW HILL B; TP; Quoting from Amazon's description: For the homebuilder, one mistake in estimating or installing wells and septic systems can cost thousands of dollars. This comprehensive guide filled with case studies can prevent that. Master plumber R. Dodge Woodson packs this reader-friendly guide with guidance and information, including details on new techniques and materials that can economize and expedite jobs and advice on how to avoid mistakes in both estimating and construction. Chapters cover virtually every aspect of wells and septic systems, including on-site evaluations; site limitations; bidding; soil studies, septic designs, and code-related issues; drilled and dug wells, gravel and pipe, chamber-type, and gravity septic systems; pump stations; common problems with well installation; and remedies for poor septic situations. Woodson also discusses ways to increase profits by avoiding cost overruns.
[7] Country Plumbing: Living with a Septic System, Hartigan, Gerry: $ 9.95; ALAN C HOOD & TP; Quoting an Amazon reviewer's comment, with which we agree--DF:This book is informative as far as it goes and might be most useful for someone with an older system. But it was written in the early 1980s. A lot has changed since then. In particular, the book doesn't cover any of the newer systems that are used more and more nowadays in some parts of the country -- sand mounds, aeration systems, lagoons, etc.
[8] Onsite Wastewater Disposal, R. J. Perkins; Quoting from Amazon: This practical book, co-published with the National Environmental Health Association, describes the step-by-step procedures needed to avoid common pitfalls in septic system technology. Valuable in matching the septic system to the site-specific conditions, this useful book will help you install a reliable system in both suitable and difficult environments. Septic tank installers, planners, state and local regulators, civil and sanitary engineers, consulting engineers, architects, homeowners, academics, and land developers will find this publication valuable.
[9] Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems, Bennette D. Burks, Mary Margaret Minnis, Hogarth House 1994 - one of the best septic system books around, suffering a bit from small fonts and a weak index. (DF volunteers to serve as indexer if Burks/Minnis re-publish this very useful volume.)While it contains some material more technical than needed by homeowners, Burks/Minnis book on onsite wastewater treatment systems a very useful reference for both property owners and septic system designers. We refer to it often. While Minnis says the best place to buy this book is at Amazon (our link at left), you can also see this book at Minnis' website at http://web page .pace.edu/MMinnisbook
[10] Septic Tank/Soil-Absorption Systems: How to Operate & Maintain [ copy on file as /septic/Septic_Operation_USDA.pdf ] - , Equipment Tips, U.S. Department of Agriculture, 8271 1302, 7100 Engineering, 2300 Recreation, September 1982, web search 08/28/2010, original source: http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfimage/82711302.pdf
[11] Percolation Testing Manual, CNMI Division of Environmental Quality, PO Box 501304, Saipan, MP 96950
[12] Septic System Owner's Manual, Lloyd Kahn, Blair Allen, Julie Jones, Shelter Publications, 2000 $14.95 U.S. - easy to understand, well illustrated, one of the best practical references around on septic design basics including some advanced systems; a little short on safety and maintenance. Both new and used (low priced copies are available, and we think the authors are working on an updated edition--DF. Quoting from one of several Amazon reviews: The basics of septic systems, from underground systems and failures to what the owner can do to promote and maintain a healthy system, is revealed in an excellent guide essential for any who reside on a septic system. Rural residents receive a primer on not only the basics; but how to conduct period inspections and what to do when things go wrong. History also figures into the fine coverage.
[13] Test Pit Preparation for Onsite Sewage Evaluations, State of Oregon Department of Environmental Quality, Portland OR, 800 452-4011. PDF document. We recommend this excellent document that offers detail about soil perc tests, deep hole tests, safety, and septic design. Readers should also see Soil Percolation Tests and for testing an existing septic system, also see Dye Tests
[14] Grass is Always Greener Over the Septic Tank, Bombeck, Erma: $ 5.99; FAWCETT; MM; This septic system classic whose title helps avoid intimidating readers new to septic systems, is available new or used at very low prices. It's more entertainment than a serious "how to" book on septic systems design, maintenance, or repair. Not recommended -- DF.
[15] US EPA Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual Top Reference: US EPA's Design Manual for Onsite Wastewater Treatment and Disposal, 1980, available from the US EPA, the US GPO Superintendent of Documents (Pueblo CO), and from the National Small Flows Clearinghouse. Original source http://www.epa.gov/ORD/NRMRL/Pubs/625R00008/625R00008.htm
[16] Water Wells and Septic Systems Handbook, R. Dodge Woodson. This book is in the upper price range, but is worth the cost for serious septic installers and designers. Quoting Amazon: Each year, thousands upon thousands of Americans install water wells and septic systems on their properties. But with a maze of codes governing their use along with a host of design requirements that ensure their functionality where can someone turn for comprehensive, one-stop guidance? Enter the Water Wells and Septic Systems Handbook from McGraw-Hill.
Written in language any property owner can understand yet detailed enough for professionals and technical students this easy-to-use volume delivers the latest techniques and code requirements for designing, building, rehabilitating, and maintaining private water wells and septic systems. Bolstered by a wealth of informative charts, tables, and illustrations, this book delivers:
* Current construction, maintenance, and repair methods
* New International Private Sewage Disposal Code
* Up-to-date standards from the American Water Works Association
[17] Wells and Septic Systems, Alth, Max and Charlet, Rev. by S. Blackwell Duncan, $ 18.95; Tab Books 1992. We have found this text very useful for conventional well and septic systems design and maintenance --DF. Quoting an Amazon description:Here's all the information you need to build a well or septic system yourself - and save a lot of time, money, and frustration. S. Blackwell Duncan has thoroughly revised and updated this second edition of Wells and Septic Systems to conform to current codes and requirements. He also has expanded this national bestseller to include new material on well and septic installation, water storage and distribution, water treatment, ecological considerations, and septic systems for problem building sites.
[18] The NSFC Products List has an excellent list of design manuals/modules available from their website or by telephone 800-624-8301

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 25th Ed., 2012, is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume. Special Offer: For a 10% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference Book purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space. InspectAPedia.com editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author.

Or choose the The Home Reference eBook for PCs, Macs, Kindle, iPad, iPhone, or Android Smart Phones. Special Offer: For a 5% discount on any number of copies of the Home Reference eBook purchased as a single order. Enter INSPECTAEHRB in the order payment page "Promo/Redemption" space.

Building inspection education & report writing systems from Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd

Inspecting Septic Systems: Online Book, Inspection, Test, Diagnosis, Repair, & Maintenance: our Online Septic Book: Septic Testing, Loading & Dye Tests, Septic Tank Pumping, Clearances, details of onsite waste disposal system inspection, testing, repair procedures.
...


	InspectAPedia^®	InspectAPedia
	Free Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair	Ask a Question or Search InspectAPedia

Free Encyclopedia of Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, Repair

Ask a Question or Search InspectAPedia

Inspecting &Testing the Septic System Distribution Box (function() { var po = document.createElement('script'); po.type = 'text/javascript'; po.async = true; po.src = 'https://apis.google.com/js/plusone.js'; var s = document.getElementsByTagName('script')[0]; s.parentNode.insertBefore(po, s); })();

INSPECTING THE D-BOX - Inspecting the Septic System Distribution Box

Signs of D-Box Trouble, Advice on Repairs

Question: Tipped septic effluent distribution box, standing water at end of one leach line

Reply:

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about septic system distribution box (D-box) troubleshooting

Question: water is leaking out of my distribution box. Should the lid be sealed?

Reply: water leaking into or out of a D-box is a sign of trouble that needs investigation and repair;

Water leaking into the distribution box

Question: distance from the septic tank to the D-box?

Reply: Distance from the Septic tank to the D-Box:

Question: are the pipes from the D-box solid or perforated?

Reply: It depends on septic drainfield layout

Question: during a septic test the trenches "took on water" - they think the D box is kiltered. What does that mean and how do I fix it?

Reply: a tipped d-box does not distribute effluent evenly among the drainfield lines and can cause flooded drainfields

Question: The d-box is not distributing effluent evenly among my three drywells. Is it likely to be a tipped d box or a clog?

Reply: Drywells are often installed and fed in series; if yours are in parallel, set the D box to send effluent to all of them.

Question: My d box is damaged, can I just eliminate it and plumb directly to the leach field lines?

Reply: yes but just in emergency - it's better to replace and set the D-box properly

Question: What's the difference between a septic system D-box and a Splitter?

Reply: why we might need a Zoeller Tru-Flow Splitter inplace of a conventional Septic D-box - alternating drainfields & effluent flow balancing

Higher velocity pumped septic effluent may require careful effluent distribution control in the D-box - the Splitter

Septic Effluent Flow Rate Capacity - Zoeller's Tru-Flo Splitter [D-box]

Question: Clogged D-box Repair Procedures?

Reply:

Question: one side of my fields never dries out, we installed speed levelers and a new D-box. Should we cap off the wet area lines?

Reply:

Question: How to repair a bad D-box lid or cover

Reply:

Question: standing water over the [septic tank?] cleanout covers

Reply:

Question: Repairman says hard water will ruin my water treatment system and drainfield

Reply:

Ask a Question or Search InspectApedia

Technical Reviewers & References

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

Inspecting &Testing the Septic System Distribution Box