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Peat mound septic system, Two Harbors MN, (C) Daniel Friedman Septic Systems
Home Page & Article Index

This page provides an index to key articles about septic system design, installation, maintenance & repair.

We include step by step procedures explaining how to install, inspect, troubleshoot & repair septic tanks & drainfields or soakbeds.

These septic system articles explain how to buy, inspect, install, test, diagnose, maintain, and repair septic tanks, drainfields, and all other components of all types of septic systems.

We discuss how septic systems work, and how to provide septic system care to avoid replacing the septic system unnecessarily.

We provide septic cleaning and septic maintenance procedures, septic inspection methods, septic repair guides, and septic system design information. Page top: a peat mound septic system in Two Harbors, MN.

InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.

Septic Systems - ST/SAS Septic Tanks & Soil Absorption Systems

Photograph of  a conventional septic tank during installation.Installation, inspection, diagnosis, maintenance & repair

Here we give in-depth information about conventional septic tanks, septic digesters, drain fields, soakaway beds, reed beds, seepage pits, cesspools, drywells, soakpits, and also septic pipes, and septic waste handling.

We describe and explain the need for and how to install alternative septic system designs for problem sites where the need is to save water or where it is difficult to dispose of septic waste.

We include tables for septic tanks: pumping frequency, septic tank size, septic tank design, and clearances between septic systems, wells, and other site features and boundaries.

This page organizes and links to our detailed septic system inspection, test, repair, and design articles, including our online septic systems book.

Septic testing class presentations, septic system photos, septic system design sketches, septic care tables, links to products and consultants are provided.

"How-To" articles at our Septic System Information Website are in these groups (these links are also at the ARTICLE INDEX the bottom of this article).

Shown above: a building main drain has just been connected to a concrete septic tank that has not yet been covered with backfill. [Click to enlarge any image]

To find what you need quickly, if you don't want to scroll through this index, you are welcome to use the page top or bottom SEARCH BOX to search InspectApedia for specific articles and information.

  1. SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN BASICS

    Septic maintenance and septic care instructions for home owners and home buyers; steps to take when buying a home with a septic tank and septic fields, and basics septic system information about:

    Septic soil & percolation tests, septic tank size, septic tank depth, septic tank tees, filters, graywater, clearances for septic system to other site features, drainfield size, drainfield shape, tank pumping frequency, tank pumping procedure, tank repair, septic treatments & chemicals, steep slope systems.
  2. SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN ALTERNATIVES

    Septic system designs, designers, suppliers & products for Aerobic, Alternating Bed, Biogas, Cesspools, Disinfection, Drywells, Evaporation-Transpiration, Filters, Fixed-Film, Gravelless, Greywater, Lagoon, Latrines, Media Filter, Mound, Outhouses, Pressure dosing, Raised Bed, Sand Bed, Sequencing Batch Reactor, sewage treatment, toilet alternatives, Vegetative Submerged Bed, wastewater treatment, & wetland septic systems.
  3. SEPTIC SYSTEM DESIGN & INSTALLATION

    Articles on how to design & install an on-site private wastewater treatment system, that is, in normal talk: a septic system.
  4. SEPTIC SYSTEM INSPECTION & TESTING

    How to find and diagnose septic system problems.
  5. SEPTIC SYSTEM MAINTENANCE & REPAIR

    Septic system care, maintenance, repair or replacement procedures and products.
  6. SEPTIC SYSTEM & PRODUCT SUPPLIERS

    Lists of suppliers and repair experts for septic systems - where to buy septic system parts.
  7. SEPTIC SYSTEM VIDEOS

    "How to" videos describe how to find the septic tank, how to find the drainfield, dealing with septic pump alarms, and other septic system inspection, maintenance, and repair tutorials in short videos hosted at You Tube.
  8. SEPTIC TANK FAQs

    Frequently asked questions about septic tanks.
  9. Free Online Septic System Inspection Class Notes

    Septic System Design Types, Inspection, Diagnosis, Safety - Power Point presentation Handouts - NY Metro ASHI Seminar, White Plains NY, 11 Sept. 2010(PDF File © 2010 Daniel Friedman). - Class text & references - NY Metro ASHI Seminar, Crowne Plaza Hotel, 66 Hale Ave., White Plains NY 10601, 11 Sept. 2010 text and refrerences for that seminar. (PDF File © 2010 Daniel Friedman).

    Also see Septic System Inspection Class original draft - generously provided by ASHI inspector Victor Faggella.

Photograph of  a seepage pit collection at the factory

We discuss just about every septic system topic and product at this website: septic tank and septic system drainfield or soakaway bed design, septic tank size, septic tank pumping frequency, septic tank cleaning, and septic tank inspection.

We also discuss cesspools and drywells, aerobic septic systems, septic system repairs, treatments, and additives or chemicals. If you find that something is missing from this website just CONTACT us and ask for it.

"Septic tanks" are what home owners or home buyers think of when buying or maintaining a home with a private septic system. But we should be thinking about the whole septic system - since the drain field or leach field makes up half of a typical septic system cost.

Septic tank care and septic tank cleaning need to be done on a regular frequency (we provide a septic tank pumping schedule table) in order to avoid ruining the drainfield.

Septic tank maintenance is not enough. Proper septic system design for the level of usage and soil conditions is critical if the system is going to have a long useful life.

We are also quite concerned with septic system health and safety since there are potential collapse hazards which can be fatal, and there are bacterial and pathogen hazards for both site occupants and for the environment if a septic system is not working properly.

The articles listed at this website form an extensive guide to septic systems care, inspection, testing, and installation. We welcome questions and suggestions for content.

Septic System Basics

How Septic Systems Work, Septic Inspection, Septic Maintenance, Septic Repairs

You are at the (C)Copyright Protected 2006-1986 Septic System Information Website - Septic Tanks, Septic Fields, Septic System Repairs, Septic System Design - this sketch is a Septic tank

Directories of Septic System Parts Sources / Suppliers

Listing submissions welcome, there is no listing fee. DIRECTORY LISTING & LINK EXCHANGE Instructions. Add your listing & support InspectAPedia.com by exchanging links - no listing fee & no conflicts of interest.

 




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Reader Comments, Questions & Answers About The Article Above

Below you will find questions and answers previously posted on this page at its page bottom reader comment box.

Reader Q&A - also see RECOMMENDED ARTICLES & FAQs

On 2022-03-03 by Bekah - found out we have a hand-built septic tank

@Inspectapedia Com Moderator, and a great service you and the whole team have done!! Just found out yesterday that we have a hand built septic tank that is about 300 gallons. (no records in the county of our septic, so must be pre 1980 !)

We actually don’t have a cesspool- it’s site built septic connected to site built seepage pit (and I only know these terms and the difference because of your site!).

Upgrading the septic tank asap after reading your page on site built systems.

SEPTIC TANKS HOME MADE SITE BUILT

With 2 small children absolutely terrifying. Though for now seems to be in working order.

I don’t even bother to google issues anymore- I just come straight to this site ! Thanks again.

On 2022-02-09 by Inspectapedia Com Moderator

@Bekah,

Thank you so much for the lovely note about your new -old home, the silly septic "pro", and our website.

We've worked hard on this material since the 1980s, and in its website form for many years too, so we are especially grateful when a reader finds it useful and trusted.

I agree with you that SEO'd pages, aka "clickbait" are worse than a disappointment, and to that end we very much welcome questions, content suggestions, and criticism of our own work. It's not just a platitude when I say that "working together makes us smarter".

Indeed as a long time resident of the Hudson Valley too, I've a long affection for old houses and for many years worked on old house inspection, renovation, and repair. Our intent at this website is to include information on what goes wrong, what stumbling blocks occur in making homes comfortable, safe, and appreciated, and what to do about those conditions.

Cesspools are a particular worry as they can be a fatal safety hazard: I know from first hand consulting in such a death, so I'm especially glad that you discovered that installation at your own home. It was an in-expert "septic pro" who pumped out a site-built cesspool built of concrete blocks that later led to a death when the homeowner stepped over the cesspool only to fall into it and be buried alive. Share that with your own septic pro as a warning.

Thank you too for the offer of having me inspect your home. After decades of field investigation and forensic lab work, with exception of a few pro-bono or research assignments, I have retired from field work and also from forensic laboratory analysis work to concentrate full time on pure research and writing for InspectApedia.com.

But indeed if you haven't already done-so, it would be useful to have your home inspected by a person who has experience and interest in old farmhouses and who will actually inspect thoroughly and provide a report that helps set priorities of attention for your home: things that are causing rapid expensive damage, things that are dangerous, or things that just don't work with acceptable reliability.

We will welcome seeing and trying to respond to any specific questions that arise.

The most immediate step you should take is to rope off and keep people away from the area where they could possibly walk over the site built septic tank because we don't know the safety of its cover or its construction. And obviously falling in would likely be fatal.

We also are grateful for your kind comments.

We have worked on developing this information for many years, so we are especially grateful when readers find it useful and trusted.

We also very much welcome to your questions, content suggestions, or critique.

On 2022-02-09 by Bekah - thank you so much for creating this incredible and detailed actual home encyclopedia.

I just want to say thank you so much for creating this incredible and detailed actual home encyclopedia.

As a new home owner of a very old farmhouse in Hudson Valley - previously a life long renter - this has been beyond helpful. It’s essential. I work in marketing and appreciate that you don’t have the same over SEO-ed listicle with useless regurgitated “information “.

The work you’ve put into this - I’m sure it’s hard to find a book that comes close.

Because of your site I was able to discover that we had a seepage pit and how exactly our septic is connected and the issues and limitations. I had to explain it to countless “septic pros” before finding anyone with experience dealing with it.

I dealt with getting literally laughed at by a young septic pro who pumped our tank and dismissing my concerns because he had never seen one before - until I was able to explain it properly thanks to your site.

Just a comment to let you know what a valuable resource you’ve created and wondering if you still work in the field ! Would love to have you assess our very old home!

 

On 2021-10-21 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - in Oregon is it ok to use 60 ft of pipe from septic tank to the leach field ?

@Don,

The concern isn't the distance per-se but rather the depth at which it will put the drainfield (at 1/8 to 1/4 " per foot of run) and the soil properties - those are questions to take to a local septic designer and to your building department. The concern is that if the drainfield is too deep in the soil it won't get enough oxygen and you'll starve the aerobic bacteria and won't adequately process the sewage effluent pathogens.

On 2021-10-21 by Don

@Bruce in KY, I had this same thing happen to us the smell not the fence , , when tanks are full or close to full Hotter and wetter weather can cause septic tank burp ), and the gases follow lines into house ,

I was wondering in Oregon is it ok to use 60 ft of pipe from septic tank to the leach field ? My Question is their a maximum amount of feed line to a leach field ? I ask because I am adding on to my existing leach field and where I want new leach runs to go is 60 ft away so can I run 60 ft of supply line to reach new proposed leach field ?

On 2021-10-14 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod)

@zack jennen,

Watch out: What you describe is unsafe and a danger to your uncle - the occupant - as well as to neighbors and local waterways.

Ultimately, you as the property owner are responsible for meeting any building and health code regulations.
You could, of course, contact your local building official, who is the final legal authority, and find out what the requirements and potential penalty are.

Having said that, no jurisdiction in the US will allow the system your uncle is using. And quite apart from the legalities, please recognize the damage to the environment and neighboring properties that is occurring by allowing untreated wastewater and sewage to enter the soil.

If you're the property owner of the site you describe, your immediate focus should, in our OPINION, be on stopping an unsafe and unsanitary health hazard at your property by having a properly-designed septic system installed.

On 2021-10-12 by zack jennen

if i have an uncle living on property w/o a legal septic, can i be charged if i have a legal septic and he doesnt? (just a hole in thr ground with rocks for drainage.)

On 2021-10-05 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - Can you have a septic system with just a leach field and no septic tank?

@Dennis b,
A properly working septic system requires more than just a leach field. If a building's waste was allowed to flow directly into a leach field, the solids contained therein would quickly render the leach field unusable not to mention damaging to the environment.

A private onsite septic system means that the waste from your building drains (sinks, showers, toilets) goes into a septic tank which retains the solids and lets the effluent flow into the soils on the property (leach field).

To avoid contaminating the environment, including nearby wells and waterways, septic system wastewater must be treated to reduce its pathogenicity.

Luckily naturally-occurring bacteria found in the septic tank AND leach field soils accomplish this task - as long as the septic system is working properly.

In a standard septic tank and leach field system, about 40% of the treatment of sewage wastewater occurs in the septic tank, and the remaining 60% occurs in the leach field trenches and surrounding soils.

Please read more at:

COMPLETE HOME BUYER'S GUIDE TO SEPTIC SYSTEMS

https://inspectapedia.com/septic/Septic_Tank_Guide_for_Home_Buyers.php

On 2021-10-05 by Dennis b

Can you have a septic system with just a leach field and no septic tank?

On 2021-08-18 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod) - selling home, failed septic test

@Darlene in NY,

I agree with your attorney that it's not going to be useful for you to argue about test results particularly on an old and Highly Questionable septic system.

What makes most sense, in my OPINION, is to move forward with getting some septic experts on sight to determine what repairs or replacements are needed and to get that done so that the property is salable.

On 2021-08-18 by Darlene in NY

Denial of property transfer(selling for vacant home). The New York Erie County Health denial reads “dye was discharging to the ground surface at the discharge point of the sand filter system.” Health department assumes there is no downfield absorption field, and not compliant Article IV, Erie County Sanitary Code, New York.

Health inspector will not talk to me, since I am not new owner. I told him I paid for test, my money held in escrow to pay for repair and my contract states I get to choose repair service, not the new owner. I asked inspector why he did not do the Biological Oxygen demand test, no answer. The BOD test would determine if I need a new septic system. Why am I denied information and communication? I did not expect this. Is this legal? I assume I can not legally go on the property now to investigate?

I told my lawyer about this but he is dismissive and says get someone do the repair, they will know what to do. My lawyer doesn’t get my point about the BOD test and the possibility of needing a new septic.

The septic system is 33 years old. The cement tank Is even older. I didn’t notice any seepage or greener grass.
I don’t know where dye is coming up.

There is a capped vertical pipe 2 ft. above ground AFTER the sand filter. I saw liquid flow under ground when I opened this pipe. I thought this was a discharge box? It is not the tank, it is downfield from tank, passed the sand filter.

There is a buried pipe angled toward the vertical pipe, goes about 30 ft. long. I assume it is a discharge trench pipe but the end is open to ground just before a very steep drop down to a ravine. Because this open pipe is exposed to ground I assume this makes it not compliant Article IV?

Maybe the inspector never saw this buried pipe? Should I tell him? This isn't over yet. I am having a problem with well water test also, so left I commented under this category also.

On 2021-07-28 by (mod)

@Bruce in KY,

I thought perhaps during the repair a lot of sewage-contaminated earth was brought to the surface; if so that could take some time to dissipate;

Also you or the neighbour might want to have the lines scoped using a sewer line camera to confirm that everything is in good shape; better to find a problem now than to have a sewage backup into their home later.

Keep us posted as what you find will help other readers.

On 2021-07-28 by Bruce in KY

@inspectapedia.com.moderator, thanks for the feedback. Sorry if I sounded like I expected you to know the cause. I will continue to research the links on odor.

But what I think I’m looking for expertise in is this: It has been 4 weeks since the repair. I realize that we disturbed a key part of the septic ecosystem over there (20 year old system)…is it rational for that to somehow be continuing to spew gasses and/or odors that are finding their way into my house each day?

That’s the only thing that has changed in house during this time frame. We breached their system accidentally, the smell started. It has been repaired, but the smell in my home continues - it’s the only logical source. Should it still be smelling after a month?

On 2021-07-27 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod)

@Bruce in KY,

I don't know what the cause is,

But if you will take a look in the article index given above you will find a number of articles on tracking down and curing septic odors. Please take a look and let me know how you progress or what questions arise.

On 2021-07-28 by Bruce in KY

We recently decided to put in a four-rail fence in our back yard. Due to a mistake of location (on my part) while digging the post holes, they hit the next door neighbor’s septic.

We hit the effluent pump line, one distribution box, and two connecting pipes for additional distribution boxes (each lateral line has a d-box connected to it). I had these elements repaired in agreement with the neighbor. That was on June 26. I had it repaired on June 30.

Since this issue, I have had a septic smell in my house (I’m typically down wind). There is no material smell outdoors, or near the repair. But the smell in my home continues, and seems to increase during hotter/heat of the day, and when the air conditioning is running.

We have inspected multiple times, and do not find any water on the ground near that area. So it doesn’t appear the fix could be leaking. And, again, no real smells over there. But the smell in my house persists, and can get quite disruptive at times. Any ideas on what could be causing this?

On 2021-06-23 by danjoefriedman (mod) - homes that pump sewage to a destination higher than the homes lowest plumbing fixtures.

@Royce_0331,

We are glad to assist.

Your questions and comments are helpful and showing where we need to add or clarify material, so we both benefit from the conversation.

I forgot to add that if you use the on Page search box just above to search for the phrase

Septic tank Pumpers truck distance

You will find our article on septic tank pump or truck specifications including the usual maximum pumping distance. I hope you will look at it , but I will point out that the answer is 150 ft

On 2021-06-23 by Royce_0331

@inspectapedia.com.moderator, Sorry, forgot to say Thank you. WOW, that was a fast response.

On 2021-06-23 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod)

@Royce_0331,

It's common for homes to have systems that pump sewage to a destination higher than the home's lowest plumbing fixtures.

Of course if that system fails then you don't have a way to dispose of waste water.

So you might be interested in the frequency with which there are power failures and you might need to consider a battery backup for your pumping system.

You also might ask your inspector or plumber to point out to you what check valves are installed to prevent backflow from the piping between house and septic tank.

And you certainly want to take proper care of your septic tank and drain field since a back flowing or flooded septic tank could in that unusual event put those check valves to a test.

None of these concerns ought to be a showstopper. Every system has its personality and its strengths and weaknesses.

On 2021-06-23 by Royce_0331

I'm considering purchasing a new home. The home consists of a full basement at ground level with a first floor. The septic tank is located on a hill behind the house. When I stand on top of the tank I am at roof level of the house, so really two floors above where it leaves the house.

Can this cause problems? Second question, what's the max distance from the truck to the tank? I'm concerned the pump truck won't be able to reach the tank to pump it. Thank you very much.

On 2021-05-31 by inspectapedia.com.moderator (mod)

@Beth,

In theory, yes; your septic design engineer can answer that question; there is a lot of information one needs and that's not in your question, such as

- wastewater volume of the new home
- condition of the existing drainfield - age, functionality, soil conditions
- size and condition of the existing septic tank

On 2021-05-31 by Beth

We are building a new house on property that already has a house and traditional septic with leach field. The current house will be removed after we build the new house. We have had no issues for the last two years with the current septic and we had it pumped and inspected when we purchased the property as well.

What I am wondering is. Could we not just hook the black water for the new house up to the existing septic and then install a grey water only aerobic system that we can use to water pastures? Topography and distance from new house to current septic are favorable and provide enough slope. Thank you in advance!

On 2021-05-29 by (mod) - flooded septic lines = "problem"

@Mark,

Yes it sounds as if your lines are blocked or the field is flooded which equal a septic drainfield failure.

So your inspector did something useful and important, but if you paid Working Dog Septic Service for an inspection and report and they won't tell you what their report means, I'd ask for a refund.

On 2021-05-29 7 by Mark

Is this a problem?

On 2021-05-12 - by (mod) - septic report interpretation

@Daniel Shill,

Sorry to say, but it's correct that any time a seepage pit is full to near its inlet, it's no longer serviceable.

You probably used so much less wastewater than would a family occupying 2 or 3 bedrooms thst you never observed the failure.

I'm not sure what a dye test is going to add.

On 2021-05-11 by Daniel Shill

Selling my home. Only used on weekends and mostly by myself. 3 bedroom 3 bath. Bought from bank 10 years ago. Not knowing anything about septic only had it pumped one time. Buyers inspection failed the septic.

According to the report- The absorption area was found in "Unsatisfactory Condition."

Liquid from the treatment tank enters the absorption area through a conveyance line which directs the effluent into the seepage pit. The seepage pit was located and inspected by camera.

Liquid was found to be elevated to the inlet invert. Please note, once the liquid in the seepage pit is elevated to the inlet invert, the pit is no longer draining as designed and is in unsatisfactory condition.

Is this an automatic failure? I have an engineer coming to inspect to confirm I need a new system. He wants to do a dye test.

Says the system might be ok....maybe high water ? your thoughts please. thanks Dan

On 2021-04-19 - by (mod) - can I clean a septic tank through a 4-inch pipe?

@Jim,

Sorry but no, not in in a useful way. Even if it were directly over the tag the pumper could not adequately break up the floating system and settled sludge sufficiently to clean the septic tank in a way that benefits the drainfield.

On 2021-04-19 by Jim

Have an old farmhouse with a septic system that appears to have a 4 inch vent pipe coming out of the ground , but no cover . Can it be pumped through the 4 inch vent pipe ?

On 2021-03-29 - by (mod) -

@Benji, it's not normal for the septic field area to be constantly wet or smelly and if you are observing that that's a sign that the system has failed or is blocked or damaged

On 2021-03-28 by Benji

I'm curious about my septic system as the septic is out past our back yard but in occasion and usually there is a smelly odor and wet area where the septic is at. There are no issues from the home at this time. My question is, is the area that is wet normal?

On 2021-03-13 - by (mod) -

@Anonymous,

If you use the laundry detergent in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, any laundry detergent is "safe".

However using a low-phosphate detergent can reduce the chances of drainfield discharge of phosphates into the environment, and

also I've found that some homeowners who use powdered washing machine detergent sometimes use too much, leading to white detergent clogs in the plumbing system or in a sewage ejector pump.

For more suggestions about "safe" detergents, somewhat confounded by opinion, see

DISHWASHERS vs SEPTICS

On 2021-03-13 by Anonymous

What laundry detergent is safe for septic tank

On 2021-03-09 by (mod) - A septic tank is normally always full to just below or just at the bottom of the exit pipe

@john cox,
From just your text I don't know what kind of septic tank you have.

A septic tank is normally always full to just below or just at the bottom of the exit pipe that sends effluent to the drainfield. If you have a normal septic tank that is one that doesn't use a pump to remove the fluid than the septic tank should be filled to that level in normal use. If it's not your tank is damaged and leaking and needs repair or replacement.

On 2021-03-09 by john cox

My tank is always 1/ 2 full . Never pumps out fully to my drain field

On 2021-03-08 by (mod) - What's needed to repair a failed drainfield depends on what's wrong with it.

@David E.,

What's needed to repair a failed drainfield depends on what's wrong with it.

A broken or collapsed pipe or a field that is seasonally flooded by groundwater won't ever repair itself.

A drainfeld whose trench borders have become clogged by a too-thick biomat can "heal itself" given a rest period but not in one year; more likely you need 5-10 years in most soil conditions; during that interval other soil bacteria break down the biomat sufficiently that the field may begin to percolate and absorb effluent again.

That's the reasoning behind a septic design that uses alternating drainfelds that are switched, usually, by controls found in the D-box.

On 2021-03-08 by David E.

I read somewhere that a "sick" septic field that is left unused for a period will repair itself. For example, in the circumstance of a cottage (or similar), if it left for a year (or so) will repair itself. Is there any truth to this?

On 2021-03-07 - by (mod) -

@Mary, Please take a look at NO ROCK SEPTIC SYSTEM LIFE

where we will move this discussion and offer a detailed reply - I invite your further questions or comments.

On 2021-03-07 by Mary

We are buying a home in New England and had the septic inspection done. Tank and baffles were in good shape. Inspector had trouble finding 2 distribution boxes from the “as built,” but used a probe/dipstick to penetrate infiltrators.

In multiple places, probe showed dripping liquid and determination was made that drain field was saturated. 29 year old, gravel-less infiltrator system. No pooling, odor or other evidence of failure.

Seller next had drain field inspection with backhoe to dig out distribution boxes. Camera showed pipes clear and exam of d-boxes showed very little effluent. Determination: drain field is perfect.

We now have dueling inspection reports. Is there any way to reconcile them? Can infiltrators be full, yet distribution boxes and surrounding soil fine?

On 2021-03-03 - by (mod) - home buyer says septic inspection was improper or inadequate

@Hunter, First I need to emphasize that I can't possibly assess the safety of your building or septic system from text. But safety is my first concern with any septic system particularly an old one in unknown condition.

The far greater hazard is not that there may be bacteria on the soil surface since all soil has bacteria but rather the hazard would be an old septic tank of unknown condition with an unsafe cover into which someone could fall, usually resulting in a fatality. So the first thing to review with your septic inspector is the safety of a septic tank and its cover.

Beyond that question if there's not actual open sewage or effluent on the yard surface there's no appropriate step for you to take concerning septic bacteria that maybe in the soil below. If you're concerned just keep your kids from playing in that area.

Last, you're correct to expect to face a significant expense replacing at least the drain field and possibly other components.

In my opinion the septic inspector who sees an old septic tank with no baffles is derelict in not warning you that the result of no baffles is having pushed solids into the drain field and therefore damaging and shortening is life - which means you have no predictable forward life of that system.

But whether or not the amount that you think you're budgeting is going to be adequate is not something that can be answered by text at a website. You need an on-site septic engineer who would do to soil perc testing, look at the lay of the land in the amount of available space, and other conditions in order to give you an idea of what kind of drain field is going to be needed and what is cost is likely to be.

On 2021-03-03 by Hunter

Uh. Am in process of buying a house with a 50(!) year old septic system. In NC. Had what I guess would qualify as a level 1 inspection done, i.e. inspected by a licensed septic company who excavated the inlet and outlet covers and visually inspected inlet and outlet pipes as well as drain field.

System has no (!) baffle walls, but has an outlet baffle T (no filter). Didn't seem to raise any alarm in the report given to us.

Didn't perform any dye testing or locate the D-box. I mean jokes on me for not researching this stuff before seeing the pictures, but am I right to just budget like $25k over the next few years to fix it properly? I mean, it's concrete, but from poking around on here there's basically no way there can be any expected life of the drain field, right?

Additionally, is it wise for me (as a homeowner) to try and locate and inspect the D-Box? original permit show it located relatively close to the septic system and parallel with the outlet. Figured looking at it might give me a better idea of how bad the field is at this point.

One more- is it possible to, just in the interests of protecting my kids while we budget out the eventual replacement/overhaul, do some surface mitigation to reduce the potential for exposure to pathogens? I've got a green thumb, so is there any (obviously shallow rooted) planting that can temporarily mitigate contamination risk through increased soil microbiology?

Thanks

On 2021-01-25 - by (mod) -

Warren

Let's take a look at

SEPTIC TANK SIZE septic tank size and capacity vs. usage determine the required septic tank size, calculate size of an existing septic tank

and in that article take a look at the septic tank sizing vs average daily wastewater inflow in gallons and a separate table of tank size vs # of people. and you'll see that a 2000 gallon tank is likely to be too small

The result is insufficient settling time in the tank and thus solids pushed into the drainfield and thus a short drainfield life.

On 2021-01-24 by Warren

Can a 2000 gallon holding tank handle 5 adults and 2children on two mobile homes. One home has three bedrooms and two baths. The other home has two bedrooms and one bath.

Part two is there a standard leaching rate in inches when the tank is full to lower back down to the leaching field pipe? Thank You,

On 2021-01-24 - by (mod) -

A documented and illustrated report from an independent expert may be helpful in this dispute, but your inspector, given what you say about the neighbour, isn't likely to be able to actually do a septic dye test in the neighbor's septic system, so you're still going to have denial and finger pointing;

Supplement that report with groundwater tests for eColi level

Supplement that with a report showing that the source is or is NOT your own septic system

Then ask your health department for help, and

if that doesn't work you will (ugh) need help from an attorney who is expert in real estate law

On 2021-01-24 by jlus0166

I live in PA. Our neighbor has a stream discharge system. The neighbor has violated their permit on the regular. We live on a slightly lower elevation than our neighbors. We also live next to wetlands. A little over two years ago, we had a stream going through our yard down to the water basin. Our neighbors are trying to say that it is rainwater. The stream is coming through the ground from where their septic system is.

Our well is so high in total coliform that the instrument can not read the level. Our well is also two and a half times the rep limit but negative for ecoli. Is there a way to manipulate the lab test to not show ecoli? We had an independent inspector inspect.

The inspector had the neighbors system pumped right before he did a dye test and put the dye in the tank in the winter. Is this normal procedure for a licensed inspector? And when laws are set on distance for a septic system, do the distances change with the laws when it's a different time, like years later?

On 2020-12-10 - by (mod) -

Scott:

How old is the drainfield? If fairly new the settlement may be due to construction - and still will need to be repaired as a sagged drain line is going to fail early - as we already see in the case you describe.

Standing water in the drainfield tells us it has failed. It cannot be treating sewage effluent pathogens in that condition, so we're discharging pathogens into the environment, contaminating groundwater and if nearby, any waterways.

I would start by scoping the lines to be sure it's settlement and not a blockage that might be a less costly and less dramatic repair.

Past that you might have to excavate a cross section of the failed area.

On 2020-12-10 by Scott

I have 6 drain lines in my leach field. Each over 100' long. Three of them has significant settling (maybe 12-16", hard to tell, because it is on a sloped yard. I have no trees on the leach field and had zero problems with the leach field.

The other day I noticed standing water (under the grass level) in one of the 3 drain lines. We did have quite a bit of rain lately, however, the other two settled lines did not have standing water. It still is a little wet, but certainly no standing water. What is the proper diagnosis process for determining the standing water.

On 2020-09-09 - by (mod) -

Jared

As long as the slope of sewage piping is adequate (1/8 to 1/4 inch per foot) the waste will make it from home to septic tank; however nothing in that tells us the actual condition of the septic tank and drainfield.

Please see the advice we offer at HOME BUYERS GUIDE to SEPTIC SYSTEMS

On 2020-09-08 by Jared

I am purchasing a new mobile home the septic system is about 10 year's old but the location of my new home is 60foot away it will work properly as long as the fall on the septic pipe is correct form the house to the tank?

On 2020-06-29 - by (mod) - is it possible that in the early 80's an additional outlet was added to the existing concrete septic tank

Root-clogged septic line (C) InspectApedia.com CarrieCarrie

Not meaning to sound glib, anything's possible in the range of buried septic components going back roughly four decades. Often someone finds a failure, a dispute, or some other problem and makes a change - with little or no documentation.

Most residential septic tanks have just one inlet and one outlet opening.

You'll want to have your pipes located and mapped and to do some exploring to see if there is any usable drainfield or leachfield whatsoever.

There are various methods for doing that using drain snakes, sewer line cameras, above ground detection - in a series of articles here starting at

SEPTIC DRAINFIELD LOCATION

On 2020-06-29 by Carrie

Picture of outlet pipe from tank [shown above].

Hello. I recently purchased a 100 year old home. Documentation states that a septic system with a shared leech field was installed in 1983. Inspection of the tank showed a blocked outlet pipe assumed by tree roots as the neighbor was not having any issues.

We are not able to find the septic plan for our house, and the neighbors permit plan shows a leech field that is not connected to our tank.

All other documentation states that there is a shared leech field between us.

Excavation of the area to investigate the blocked pipe (PVC) shows an outlet pipe not connected to anything - no D box, just the end of the pipe in the ground.

My question is - is it possible that in the early 80's an additional outlet was added to the existing concrete septic tank that leads to a D box and leech field?

Not sure if that can be done. What do you suggest for next steps? I will try to add a picture. Thank you.

On 2020-06-25 - by (mod) -

George

A septic system that only backs up some of the time is still a septic system that's not working properly, is contaminating the environment, and worst is perhaps giving you advance notice of a future more total failure that risks a sewage backup into the building.

On 2020-06-22 by George A

Have a small sinkhole near septic tank which after heavy rain had grey water in it about 10" down .

Later that day some backup appeared in both showers and one toilet wouldn't flush. An hour later everything was fine. Is this a septic problem or leach field issue or just a result of a very heavy rain and high water levels?

On 2020-06-17 - by (mod) -

Dan:

I don't understand your situation: no water coming out of the tank exit or no water coming out of the building into the tank?

I don't understand "tank with stone" - is your septic tank really filled with stone?

Before suggesting a solution one needs to understand the problem and its cause, then of course I'll be glad to help think through what might be done.

Meanwhile, with not a shred of other information, I speculate that perhaps groundwater is flooding your septic tank and needs to be directed away and the tank sealed against leakage into it.

On 2020-06-17 by dan

I have no water coming out of drain. tank with stone is overfilling. what is the solution

On 2020-05-22 - by (mod) -

No, Anon,

Watch out: If you take a look at a typical MSDS fir sodium polyacrylate such as published by Fisher Scientific you'll see that it is a harmful toxic chemical that should not be released into the environment.

On 2020-05-22 by Anonymous

Can I pour sodium polyacrylate down my sink, into my septic tank without damage?

On 2020-05-01 - by (mod) -

i thought so too.

But the curtain drain requirement may not be connected to the lack of perc test - rather it's addressing surface and subsurface runoff.

If those waters saturate the drainfield area it won't work

On 2020-05-01 by Gayla Stahl

I was trying to find a map that i ran into online a couple of weeks ago, that showed what type of septic system was needed in certain areas , I should have bookmarked it, but at the time I did not think I would need it,

but then the inspector that is in my area, told me that all three systems that I was having put in were going to need a curtain drain , this added 1400.00 to each one, pretty pricey, and the problem that I have is that as far as i know no perc test was ever done for any of them, How can this be? I thought a perc test was always required?

On 2020-04-23 - by (mod) -

Amber

What you describe sounds like a health hazard.

If you've contacted the home management or owner both orally and in writing and nobody is responding you will need to get outside help; start by giving your health department a call.

Keep me posted.

Daniel

On 2020-04-22 by Amber Sutherland

Time sensitive. I'm in a sober living home, for woman n children. There's been a septic issue, right out front door, n many windows, n a.c unit. There's standing water, if u can even call it that..its majority feces, and excrement.

The soil has consistent standing waste, and the septic people have left it half done, even left their hose, they r pumping it to near by.. So I'm vomiting now w bad headache. No sign of sanitary relief and I feel this is super hazardous.

On 2020-04-08 - by (mod) -

That sounds to me as if your third "tank" is a pumping chamber that's pumping or otherwise distributing clarified septic effluent to a drainfield.

If effluent is spraying out at the drainfield vent, either the drainfield is well downhill from the final tank or the tank is actually a pumping chamber using an effluent pump to send effluent to the drainfield.

In any event, if effluent is spraying out of the vent then the drainfield or its piping has become blocked or clogged and needs repair or replacement.

I can't say from just your note if the problem is something easy to fix - a broken or blocked pipe - or if the original installation was faulty. So further investigation, perhaps using a sewer line camera, is in order.

On 2020-04-08 by Glenn Galer

We have a new house ( 2 yr old) with a new leach field. It has three tanks in series that feed to the leach field.

I observed today that one of the vents on top of the leach field was spraying liquid out. I checked the closest tank to the leach field and it was about one third filled. Any suggestions?

On 2020-04-04 - by (mod) -

Lynn

Discharging septic effluent to the surface is a public health hazard that is illegal in Texas. If the property owner isn't taking steps to fix the problem you need to ask for help from your local department of health.

Hunt County Texas Department of Health
Address: 2700 Johnson St, Greenville, TX 75401
Opens 8AM Mon
Phone: (903) 408-4140

On 2020-04-04 by Lynn

My neighbors are renters the septic system in the mobile home they rent and is 100 ft from my property line and 200 ft from my mobile home. The system has roots in it and has been leaking sewage for at least 30 days. On to my property and a third neighbors property. This is in Hunt County in Texas. Can someone tell me what to do. Help.

On 2019-07-03 by (mod) - just cleaning out tree roots will not be a lasting septic system repair

Clearing the roots may get the waste system flowing again but I'm not optimistic that it's a long-term fixed since the same roots will be fractions of an inch away on the other side of the pipe and will rapidly invade the pipes again.

More like what you're going to need to remove the trees or plants whose roots are invading the field and quite likely the field itself is going to need to be replaced. So without those repairs, I'm not optimistic about the ongoing life of your septic system.

Cost to simply clear pipes is going to range significantly depending on country and city where you live, ease of access to the side length, and accessibility of the piping, but it certainly is going to be more than $500 and less than $10,000 just to do the clearing you can go ahead and do that but keep in mind that it's a Band-Aid.

On 2019-07-03 by Deb

I am purchasing a home and during the septic inspection the system failed and it was found that the tank and seepage system were root bound. I have been told that the system will need to be cleared of roots. Is this an acceptable fix for the problem? The tank would be about 37 years old. And what would the cost range for a service of this type?

On 2019-06-20 by (mod) - need a contractor repair failed drainfield field

Sherry

To protect reader trust we do not sell any product or service. You can find some septic experts in the experts directory whose link is given at the top of any of these pages. But most likely what you need is a local contractor so it would be perfectly reasonable to just search for plumbing and septic contractors near your country and city.

I'll be glad to help further with specific questions about the nature of the work needed or repair options when you report what your contractor has seen and proposed.

See our page top EXPERTS DIRECTORY for help in finding a septic expert in your area.

On 2019-06-20 by Sherry Cook

@Linda,
Septic system failed need a contractor to come out field need to be repaired for drainage asap

On 2019-05-22 by (mod) -

Linda

The sprinkler heads that disperse effluent above ground are in effect marking the area of the "drainfield" for an aerobic septic system that uses that effluent disposal method.

But if you are seeing standing water then the field is flooded and isn't working - it's time to call your aerobic septic maintenance company for inspection and repair. Let me know what you're told and we may be able to offer more comment.

On 2019-05-22 by Linda

Does the aerobic system have a drain field close to the sprinkler head, sprinkler works, but water standing around it

On 2019-05-16 by (mod) -

KC

The diagnosis of an alarm light on aerobics varies a bit by system brand and model but in general it's probably telling you you the air pump isn't working OR the sewage level is abnormally high - meaning the effluent pump is not working or its control is stuck. It's time to call an aerobic septic service company.

Let me know what you're told and we may have further suggestions.

On 2019-05-10 by K Chance

I have a 7 year old lake house used about one week end a month and the red light is staying on on my aerobic septic system. What do I need to do?

On 2019-05-05 by (mod) -

I agree that it sounds as if water is leaking into the tank

On 2019-05-05 by Ellen

Have a 1000 gallon concrete holding tank that we had installed a couple of years ago. We were ready to hook our rv up to it. The tank was full of fairly clean water. The opening does sit in a low spot. Have a 12" plastic riser. Had it pumped out.

Dug out around the riser and filled with rock around the opening and riser. After a full week of rain the tank has about a foot of water in it. This water looks muddier than the time before we had it pumped.

Could it be that the riser wasn't sealed very good and that we need to add another riser?

On 2019-04-30 by (mod) -

I think we discussed this on another page. Certainly you can call your health department and before identifying yourself asking the question that you're asking me. I would think your health department would be quite concerned and would cooperate. After all they certainly can investigate for themselves.

On 2019-04-30 by Alfred's

I know of a D-box that has no bottom. It is within 50 feet of Hood Canal. Can the County Health Dept. be notified anonymously by concerned neighbors?

On 2019-04-03 by (mod) -

Chris:

Well sort-of. When a drainfield fails from normal use (i.e. not flooding, crushing, roots, etc) it's usually the soil around the edges of the trenches that has become occluded with a thick biomat that stops passing effluent.

If one simply opened the original trench to the original width and replaced pipes and perhaps gravel I see several serious issues:

1. if the biomat is left undisturbed the new trenches have no forward life

2. driving the machinery over the absorption bed in this manner compresses the soil, further damaging the ability of the fields to absorb effluent

So yeah you can replace a leachfield in its original area but to do so effectively you'll probably need a lot of additional excavation to break up and possibly even re-mix the biomat-clogged soil.

A better approach to discuss with your septic contractor *might* be to dig new trenches in the middle of the spaces between the original trenches.

The soil compression concern remains but you can place the new trenches parallel to but offset from the originals. At one side - left, right, or both, the final "new" trench will be in new ground if it fits.

On 2019-04-02 by Chris

Hi, I need to replace my leech field. When we had them installed 15 years ago, they were placed in the only location on my property that works with all setbacks.

My question: is it possible to dig out the existing leech fields and re-use the same location? If not, what options do I have when no other location on my property works? Thank you for any/all advise.

On 2019-02-24 by (mod) -

Gaston

Take a look at the chamber or gravelless septic system designs and specifications found at

https://inspectapedia.com/septic/Gravelless_Septic_System_Design_Guide.php

GRAVELLESS SEPTIC SYSTEMS

On 2019-02-24 by gaston

i am replace my hold systeme for the new systeme b101 diffuser do not use rock , my question is this i was thinking to have 3 drain chanel of 40 feets each is it ok good for my house of 3 bed room and i leave in florida and how deep it have to be thanks in advance gaston

Question: septic tank size determination

(Feb 24, 2014) cyvrn8822@yahoo.com said: what size of septic system would be needed for a 5000 sure ft home?

Reply:

Hi CYVRN

If you take a look in the ARTICLE INDEX given at the end of any of our septic system pages you'll find this article live link

SEPTIC TANK SIZE: septic tank size and capacity vs. usage determine the required septic tank size, calculate size of an existing septic tank

that will answer you - there is a bit more that needs to be said than just the size of a home - after all we might have a big house with a single occupant.

Question: septic tank fails when it rains

(Mar 16, 2014) debbie said:

We have a septic tank that is fairly new but every time it rains, no matter how lightly, our toilet won't flush correctly and when it rains all day we have the septic odor in our house but not outside and the toilet fills to the rim when you try to flush it.

Reply:

Debbie it's a troubling question - it sounds as if rain runoff, perhaps from groundwater, surface runoff, or roof runoff is entering and flooding the septic tank, or worse, the drainfield. Even if the tank is new a failed older drainfield could be at fault;

I'd ask your septic contractor to excavate and open the septic tank access ports to see if the tank level is flooding from surface runoff; And if you pump the tank and water runs back into the tank from the drainfield that'd diagnose a flooded drainfield. Either can back up into the house.

If the problem is really controlling surface runoff then you'll fix it by directing water away from the tank and drainfield.

See SEPTIC TANK BACK FLOODING or for drainfield flooding to read details.

Question: sewage storage tank distance from well

(Mar 18, 2014) Kim Hall said:

What is the distance a storage tank for sewage be from a well. We have a cabin and space is limited.

Reply:

Kim please see CLEARANCE DISTANCES, SEPTIC SYSTEM

Question:

(May 16, 2014) Fran said:

We own a lake home with a holding tank. We thought it was a septic when we purchased the home but our septic man told us it was a holding tank when he came to pump it out.. We have it pumped regularly but we only see one tank. Is there a second tank? How would we find it, if so? We see no holes, pipes, nothing going into this tank when it's open for cleaning.

Also, our home was built in 1962. Is there any way to get the sewer & drain plots for this house? And, are holding tanks legal for a permanent residence?

Reply:

Fran, your local building department might have plans on file, but often those agencies don't. Even if there was a filed plan, we can't know if the plan shows what was approved or instead, what was actually built. Nor do we know what repairs or changes may have rearranged things in the intervening decades.

This article shows how to find buried septic tanks and piping

SEPTIC TANK, HOW TO FIND

Question: filter bed septic tank leaks

(June 11, 2014) wanda said:

I have a filter bed septic tank, water was coming on the top of the ground for about a month. Then it stopped, and my toilet stop flushing, and I couldn't wash clothes. We took the lid off the sewer and it was filled up with alot of water(it's only 5 years old and it's a 500gal.

Reply:

Sounds as if the outlet is blocked or the field is blocked. It's time to investigate the effluent absorption system or drainfield. Meanwhile stop using water as much as you can and pump the septic tank - that will give a few days of relief during which the problem can be diagnosed by your septic contractor or septic engineer.

Question: leaks at septic system D box

(July 12, 2014) matt with the d box leak! said:

New septic put in 6 years ago. I have a pump chamber after my septic tanks (twin 750 gals), the chamber pump (100 or 150 gal ) kicks on when the level gets high enough. The grey water is pumped to my d- box about 25 feet. The d box has 2 outflow pipes leading to a leach field with baffles etc.

The d box seems level and the problem is no matter what we have used to keep the cover on the box ( a piece of blue stone 1 " thick as it sits in the middle of a brick patio ) the d box leaks. Again on the 4th of July with 12 -15 folks over ( part of my problem?) ,

I heard the pump chamber kick on, 15 seconds later could smell it and then about 3 to 5 ounces of water came out. The leaks came from the corners opposite the inflow.

I can't get it to stop leaking, every time the pump chamber kicks on. This is the 3 time in 6 years that I am faced with a dbox with a cover ( modified cover since its blue stone ) that leaks. If we cement the blue stone onto the d box how can this keep happening?

Can the water just "eat" the concrete seal over a year? pls let me know by email when there is a response to my question - - many thanks!

Matt

Reply:

Matt,

You could convert to a more-easily sealed D-box but I don't think that's the problem. I suspect that the D-box is too small AND that with the small size, the effluent (it's not graywater) is not being accepted into the drainfield rapidly enough.

The result is the pump is filling the D-box faster than its outflow rate, causing backup and odor complaints.

A much larger D-box, sufficient to receive and then drain by gravity into the drainfields the whole pump cycle volume would be one approach that may tempt you but I don't recommend it.

Rather, you need to look at the inflow capacity of the drainfield - it may be that the drainfield is undersized, or worse, that it is poorly designed / installed and is flooding, or possibly the line balancing openings in the D-box that balance flow into different drainfield lines are too small.

In sum, if you watch the D-box when the effluent pump cycles you'll probably see that around 125 gallons of effluent are surging into the D-box and overflowing it because the in-flow rate is faster than the outflow rate.

If the D-box overflows only at the very end of the pump cycle you could see if your pumping system rate can be adjusted to send effluent to the D-box more slowly.

Please see our article on Distribution box (drop box) install, inspect, troubleshoot & repair advice at D-BOX INSTALL REPAIR where I will include your question and our comments

Question: outlet end of septic tank smaller than inlet end

(July 26, 2014) Steve said:

I have a two compartment septic tank. The outlet end tank is smaller then the inlet tank . my inlet tee is 16 inches long down the tank . The outlet drain pipe is in the centre of the bottom of the tank . How far or how long should my drain pipe be up in the tank ?

Reply:

Maybe if you send me a sketch I can try to find an answer; from just the e-text I'm a bit confused about what's installed. Generally however the septic tank drain outlet is lower than the bottom of the inlet pipe's bottom surface.


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