Septic Tank Inlet and Outlet Tee Installation & Repair Details
- SEPTIC TANK TEES - Septic tank baffle or tee repair guide - step by step photos for how to replace a lost or damaged septic tank baffle using a septic tank tee
- SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES - separate article
- Questions & Answers about septic tank inlet tee and outlet tee requirements, function, and installation or repair
- References
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InspectAPedia tolerates no conflicts of interest. We have no relationship with advertisers, products, or services discussed at this website.
This article describes the methods of septic tank baffle repair by the installation of replacement septic tank inlet and outlet tees. A septic tank replacement "Tee" is simply a standard plastic pipe in the shape of a "Tee", typically 4" or 6" in diameter, that is inserted at the septic tank inlet or outlet to serve the function of the original septic tank baffle that may have been damaged or lost. Septic tank baffles and their problems that can lead to need for replacement are also discussed at SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES. See SEWAGE LEVELS in SEPTIC TANKS for details on normal and abnormal levels and what they mean. We also recommend septic tank outlet filters installed at the tank outlet tee to extend the drainfield life. When repairing or installing a septic tank baffle or tee, to extend drainfield life see Using Septic Filters.
Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.
SEPTIC TANK TEES - Sizing and Installing Septic Tank Tees
This article explains the requirements for septic tank inlet tees and septic tank outlet tees and explains why
the length of the tee extensions is important to prevent septic tank or septic piping clogging and to protect the life of a drainfield.
Links to related septic system testing and design information are given. We address septic waste line tee sizing and we include tank tee installation suggestions.
Use of this information at other websites, in books or pamphlets for sale is reserved
to the author. See our copyright warning above and our copyright link at page bottom.
What is a Septic Tank Tee or Baffle or Gas Baffle?
Septic tanks may come with a baffle to prevent scum from clogging the inlet or outlet piping and septic fields. Often the baffle is insufficient in design, and on steel septic tanks the baffle may rust off, leading to blocked septic systems and septic field failure.
A common repair or improvement is to install plastic pipe septic tees in the septic tank to perform the function of these baffles.
In the septic tank photo at left you can see the green PVC sewer line entering the tank at left, and at right you can see black sewage debris atop the concrete septic tank baffle. (This indicates a septic tank problem, probably at the outlet, discussed at SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES).
The septic tank baffle or tee is a device on the inlet or outlet of a septic tank which prevents sewage back-flow into the inlet or outlet pipe.
The device may be made of concrete, steel, plastic, or other materials, but in all cases the septic tank tee or baffle forms a barrier between
the septic tank and the inlet or outlet pipes to or from the septic tank.
Level the septic tank: The septic tank inlet tee is designed to be higher than the septic tank outlet tee. This helps assure that incoming sewage clears the baffle and enters the tank correctly, while outgoing effluent does not carry along floating solids, scum, or grease (which would clog the drainfield).
For this reason the when the septic tank itself is placed into the ground, the septic tank should be installed level. If the septic tank has settled and is no longer level it would be very difficult to re-position the tank, but it may be possible to make corrections at the tank inlet tee and outlet tee to cope with this change.
Septic tank inlet baffle inspection
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Where a replacement PVC plastic septic tank tee is installed into a steel or concrete septic tank, the outlet or inlet tee is a standard pipe tee, typically of the same diameter as the incoming sewer line, placed at the inlet of a septic tank to prevent the inlet sewer line from being clogged by floating scum and waste in the tank (resulting in a blocked septic system).
On the inlet side the septic tank baffle is intended to permit waste to enter the tank, but to avoid clogging of the tank inlet. The septic
tank inlet baffle accomplishes this job by blocking the floating scum layer, a thick layer of debris that forms naturally at the top of a working septic tank, from
blocking the tank inlet pipe.
At SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES we describe inspecting the condition of the septic tank baffles when the tank access ports have been opened, for example when the septic tank is about to be pumped. |
The septic tank inlet baffle also reduces the movement of gases from the septic tank backwards into the building that it serves. Any gases that do escape the tank in this direction should be venting above the building's roof through its plumbing vent system, provided that system is itself correctly installed.
Septic tank outlet baffle (gas baffle) inspection
The septic tank outlet tee blocks floating scum and sewage from flowing out of the tank where it would rapidly clog the drain field and effluent piping.
Located on the septic tank's outlet end where the tank is connected to piping intended to conduct clarified septic effluent to the absorption system (drainfield), the septic tank baffle or tee, also called a Gas Baffle in some literature or regulations, keeps
solid waste and gas bubbles away from the septic tank outlet, thereby reducing the carry over of solid particles from the septic tank.
This job is
critical since sending solid waste out of the septic tank into the drainfield (absorption area) will certainly lead to clogging of the soils there, shortening the life of the drainfield. We describe this septic tank baffle or tee inspection in more detail at SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES.
Signs of Trouble With Septic Tank Baffles or Tees
Diagnosing septic odors in the building, or in the septic tank or drainfield areas
Odors around the drainfield might be due to loss of the gas-baffle in the septic tank. Of course such odors may also be due to a failing drainfield, so further diagnosis is in order. Checking the presence and condition of the septic tank outlet baffle (gas baffle) is done at the septic tank and should be quick and easy.
If the outlet baffle is lost it should be replaced, but you should also assume that the drainfield has a somewhat reduced future life.
Failing drainfields may have been caused in part by a previous loss of the septic tank outlet baffle. Because lost septic tank baffles are both a possible cause and a diagnostic aid in the occurrence of septic system smells or odors, see the detailed articles on tracking down and curing septic or sewer gas odors inside or outside buildings listed at
SEPTIC & CESSPOOL SAFETY
SEWER GAS ODORS
SEWER GAS ODORS in COLD WEATHER
TOXIC GAS TEST PROCEDURES
Diagnosing septic piping backups between building and septic tank
Backups at the waste line leaving the building, or apparent clogs in the pipe between the building and the septic tank could be caused by a lost septic tank inlet baffle which has led to clogging of the tank in that area, resulting in a slowed or even totally blocked flow into the tank.
If the plumber simply clears the line between house and tank, without repairing or replacing a lost septic tank inlet baffle, the repair will not be long-lasting.
See CLOGGED DRAIN DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR for help in diagnosing slow or clogged drains or septic backups; also see
SEPTIC BACKUP PREVENTION.
Diagnosing septic piping leaks into the septic tank, flooding the tank and drainfields
See SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES for an explanation of how to observe clues at the septic tank baffles or tees to look for signs of tank flooding when opening the septic tank for cleaning, pumping, or inspection.
See Septic Tank Leaks - for an explanation of how and why septic tank leaks cause septic system failures.
Replacement Septic Tank Tee or Baffle Procedure & Specifications
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 If the septic tank baffles have been damaged, lost, or are inadequate,
a septic tee should be installed at both the tank inlet and outlet
.
Our photo at left, compliments of architect Jerry Waters, shows a badly deteriorated concrete septic tank baffle.
A damaged baffle such as this one will permit floating scum and solids in the septic tank to block the septic tank inlet, leading to a sewer backup in the building. Damaged tees may also increase the movement of sewer gases back up the sewer line into the building.
While a septic tank designer could specify the exact numbers
that s/he would want us to use for installing the inlet and outlet tees for a septic tank,
we have not yet found such a specification. Most installers use local "rules of thumb" for septic tank baffle design.
Perhaps this is because the inlet and outlet tee
dimensions for a septic tank depend on the size and depth of the tank as well as the anticipated
thickness of the floating scum layer in the septic tank. |
To install a pipe tee at a septic tank inlet or outlet pipe where the original baffle has been lost, it is necessary to excavate the septic tank, remove the cover, and gain access to the inlet and outlet pipes just inside the tank near the top. The cost of the 4" to 6" diameter plastic pipe tee will be trivial, just a few dollars each, for a total of usually less than $20.00. The cost of excavating and opening the septic tank so that the tee can be installed depends on your particular septic tank installation, the depth of the tank, and its condition.
As you can see in this photo of standard 4" PVC pipe fittings assembled to form a replacement septic tank tee to repair the tank with the damaged concrete septic tank baffle shown above, the parts are assembled into a tee with the longer extension to be inserted downwards into the septic tank.
In architect Waters' photograph of these septic tank baffle repair parts (above left), he has used a 22 degree elbow to connect the tee to the sewer line entering the septic tank. Mr. Waters used the angled elbow rather than a straight connection on the tee to avoid bringing the top of the "tee" fitting too high in the septic tank. You don't want the replacement tee to slope upwards nor do you want any obstruction in these fittings that could cause a blockage of sewage entering the septic tank.
The center of the plastic tee is inserted into the septic tank inlet opening just inside the tank, and the tee is installed vertically as you can see in our sketch above. If the center of your plastic tee is female rather than male, the larger hub may not fit into the septic tank inlet or outlet opening. In that case your installer may need to glue a short length of plastic pipe into the female tee hub so that you can install this fitting. Keep the new inlet or outlet septic tank tee close to the tank wall as shown in our sketch.
Sample Specifications for a Septic Tank Inlet Tee
Mr. Waters' photograph (left) shows the new PVC septic tank tee parts in position in the septic tank. You'll notice that he had to chip away the remains of the concrete septic tank baffle to get the new plastic parts in place. On steel septic tanks removing the remains of the steel baffle will also be necessary - don't get cut or you risk a serious infection.
What you'd want to see at the inlet is that the top of the tee clears the tank cover when it's put on and that it's clear of the top of the floating scum layer - otherwise it'll get blocked.
The bottom of the tee should be BELOW the BOTTOM of the floating scum layer when the tank is filled to its normal level. Otherwise your incoming line is going to be blocked by the scum layer.
The inlet tee also slows the water as it flows into the tank so that you don't stir things up inappropriately. In the informal drawings we have at hand the bottom of the inlet extends to just above the middle of the tank depth - we guess the presumption is that this clears the bottom sludge layer and the top scum layer.
Just as the inlet tee needs to extend below the floating scum so as not to become blocked by it, the outlet tee needs to extend 2 or 3 inches DEEPER than the bottom of the inlet tee. This keeps sewage and floating scum from running out the tank outlet where it would quickly clog the absorption system or drainfield.
So, and let's take a typical septic tank that is maybe 5 feet of internal depth.
The inlet pipe enters the tank perhaps 6 inches below the very top edge of the tank (top edge of the tank to top edge of the inlet hole) and is about 4 inches in diameter. So the bottom of the septic tank inlet opening (and outlet opening) in our theoretical example is about 10 inches from the top of the tank.
This will define, roughly, the height top of the floating scum layer. (Even though the scum layer is blocked from flowing out of the tank by the outlet tee, it will rise up to about the same level as the
bottom of the outlet tee, or slightly above it. Septic effluent will flow up the outlet tee from the bottom of the outlet tee up out of the septic tank, keeping the total sewage level in the tank from rising any higher.)
The bottom of the floating scum layer will vary depending on the thickness of that layer. Let's allow
for an 8 inches thick floating scum layer. (A rental house septic tank which we examined recently had a 4 inch scum layer when it was pumped after 7 years of use by an average of 1 person occupancy.)
That means the bottom of the 8 inch thick floating scum layer would extend down in the tank to about 8 inches below the bottom of the tank inlet opening.
Your inlet tee had better be at least a couple of inches deeper than that or your scum layer, else the floating scum will clog and back up the septic system. So for these example dimensions I'd make my inlet tee extend down into the tank at least 12 inches below the bottom of the tank inlet at a minimum. In the septic tee replacement parts photos shown above, Mr. Waters assembly was just under 30" in total length, including the vertical dimension of the PVC pipe tee itself.
Should we make the inlet tee bottom extension longer? Yes. I'd bring it to perhaps a little above
the mid-depth of the waste that's going to be in the tank - putting it between the bottom of the floating scum layer and the top of any sludge on the tank bottom. A bit longer means the tee does a bit better job of slowing the incoming wastewater down. So I might make my inlet tee extend down 14 inches to 16 inches into the tank.
Are Septic Tank Tees Open or Shut at their Top End?
What is to be done at the top of the new septic tank tee after it's inserted into the tank inlet (or outlet) pipe? We leave the tee top open, yielding a septic tank function and design similar to that found on concrete septic tanks. Jerry Waters' photograph of the finished septic tank replacement tee (left) shows that he installed a grate on top of the septic tank tee top opening.
The grate body needed to be trimmed down to minimize its height as the top of the tee in this installation was very close to the under-side of the septic tank cover. Waters wanted to reduce the chances of solids flowing over the top of and clogging the septic tank inlet tee should there be a tank outlet blockage.
DO NOT install any grate or blocking device on the bottom of the septic tee extension of the system will clog very quickly.
Open septic tank tee tops have some advantages:
- Waste may flow more easily into the tank, reducing gas pressure or debris blockage at the tank inlet
- If the septic tank tee outlet bottom end becomes clogged with debris, the open tee top provides an emergency "overflow" outlet that may keep the system working without backup until it's discovered at the next septic tank pumpout.
In fact, when cleaning the septic tank we like to inspect the tank inlet and outlet baffles or tees specifically to look for evidence of sewage flowing over the top of the tee or baffle - a condition that would indicate a problem, perhaps a blockage at the tank outlet tee or baffle, a blockage in the tank outlet effluent line en route to the drainfield or distribution box, or a problem with the drainfield itself. We describe this inspection at SEPTIC TANK BAFFLES.
To complete the septic tank tee insertion project that replaced the damaged original concrete (or steel) septic tank baffles, make sure that all of the septic tank covers and access port covers are sound, safe, and child proof. Falling into a septic tank is likely to be fatal.
Also check that ground water or surface runoff are not entering the septic tank at the sewer pipe inlet or outlet ends of the tank and similarly that runoff is not entering the septic tank at its covers. Flooding the septic tank (see Septic Tank Leaks) speeds the demise of the drainfield.
Finally, to maximize the septic system drainfield life, make sure the septic tank is cleaned (pumped out) on a regular schedule. See SEPTIC TANK PUMPING SCHEDULE.
Thanks to architect Jerry Waters for contributing these septic tank tee replacement photos and for suggesting clarification on the requirement to leave the top of the septic tank tee open.
Specification for a Septic Tank Outlet Tee - outlet tee should extend deeper into septic tank than inlet tee
The septic tank outlet tee is slightly different from that found on the inlet side of the septic tank. As you see in the sketch and in the sketch of both inlet and outlet tees in the septic tank at the top of this page, the bottom of the outlet tee (drawn in blue in the sketch) should be 2 or better 3 inches deeper into the tank than the inlet tee.[2]
That green dashed line - - - we added to the drawing is just to illustrate that the bottom end of the septic tank inlet tee is about 3-inches higher in the septic tank than the bottom end of the septic tank outlet tee in the right in the sketch. The red dashed line is explained just below at "backwards septic tanks".
Image adapted from Alaska DEC [3]
This is insurance against pushing solids out of the tank when a toilet is flushed and the waste levels in the tank rise up briefly. If we didn't have this insurance of the
extra length on the outlet tee extension, the surge of waste into the tank might push some of the floating scum layer and sewage through the outlet where it would quickly clog the septic piping or drain field.
As we mention under diagnosing drainfield odors, the outlet tee also has the job of reducing the movement of gases back out of the tank into the drainfield.
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If you agree with the inlet tee dimensions discussed above, that means your outlet tee is going to extend down from the bottom of the tank outlet 16" to 18".
Septic Tanks Can Actually Be Installed Backwards! Wrong tank elevations lead to sewer line clogs.
The dashed red line - - - in our septic tank illustration above illustrates the 3-inch drop in elevation between the height in the septic tank of the inlet pipe opening and the height in the vertical tank wall of the septic tank outlet pipe opening. The red dashed line also shows the top of the liquid level in a properly functioning septic tank.
Watch out: In addition to recommendations for a longer outlet septic tank tee than inlet tee, at least equally important, the actual septic tank outlet pipe opening in the vertical tank wall will usually be about 3-inches lower than the inlet opening. The Alaska DEC septic tank installation manual explains this septic tank design details as
A built-in vertical drop of approximately three inches between the inlet and outlet pipe is common. During installation [of a septic tank] if the inlet and outlet ends of the septic tank are reversed, water will back up into the building sewer [piping], stranding solids that could block the line. [3]
We have received a few reader reports of exactly this backwards septic tank installation problem that shows up as recurrent sewage line clogs between the house and the septic tank. In some cases these clogs were eventually traced to the septic tank having been installed "backwards" with its inlet end opening lower than its outlet end opening. [Note that on occasion we see septic tanks that are symmetrical - with inlet and outlet ends at the same elevation in the tank - a design that depends only on the inlet and outlet tee length differences discussed above.]
No the fix was not to dig out the whole septic tank and turn it around. Once the tank has been installed, excavation and removal and rotating of a backwards-installed septic tank is probably cost prohibitive. But depending on the tank construction materials, it may be possible to adjust the inlet and outlet openings, sealing and repairing the tank end(s) as needed.
Watch out: if the septic tank was installed backwards, the elevation of the waste line entering or leaving the septic tank is also going to need to be changed - this is not a trivial job, especially depending on site terrain. It may be easier to effect the repair at one of the tank than the other - raising the inlet end, or adjusting the inlet and outlet baffles or tees.
Add a Filter at Septic Tank Outlet to Protect the Leach Field
Now if you want to add protection for your drainfield, you might add a filter at the outlet tee. A number of companies sell these devices which will add life to your drainfield by reducing the level
of suspended solids flowing out of the tank. If you buy a septic tank outlet filter you'll see that the filter product will typically be of about the dimensions of the outlet
tee we cited above, or perhaps an inch or two deeper. See the links below for more information about septic filters and septic media filter systems.
See FILTERS SEPTIC & GREYWATER for details.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
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Technical Reviewers & References
Related Topics, found near the top of this page suggest articles closely related to this one.
- Jerry Waters, Architect, is in Granby CT. Mr Waters contributed photographs of a damaged concrete septic tank baffle and the plastic PVC pipe parts used to repair this condition, as well as the suggestion to clarify the open status of the replacement septic tank tee at its top.
- [1] Pennsylvania State Fact Sheets relating to domestic wastewater treatment systems include
- Pennsylvania State Wastewater Treatment Fact Sheet SW-161, Septic System Failure: Diagnosis and Treatment
- Pennsylvania State Wastewater Treatment Fact Sheet SW-162, The Soil Media and the Percolation Test
- Pennsylvania State Wastewater Treatment Fact Sheet SW-l64, Mound Systems for Wastewater Treatment
- Pennsylvania State Wastewater Treatment Fact Sheet SW-165, Septic Tank-Soil Absorption Systems
- Document Sources used for this web page include but are not limited to: Agricultural Fact Sheet #SW-161 "Septic Tank Pumping," by Paul D. Robillard and
Kelli S. Martin. Penn State College of Agriculture - Cooperative Extension, edited and annotated by
Dan Friedman (Thanks: to Bob Mackey for proofreading the original source material.)
- [2] Septic Tank/Soil-Absorption Systems: How to Operate & Maintain [ copy on file as /septic/Septic_Operation_USDA.pdf ] - , Equipment Tips, U.S. Department of Agriculture, 8271 1302, 7100 Engineering, 2300 Recreation, September 1982, web search 08/28/2010, original source: http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfimage/82711302.pdf.
- [3] "How to Maintain Your Septic System", Alaska Department of Environmental Conservation, Division of Water, retrieved 8/8/12, original source: http://dec.alaska.gov/water/wwdp/onsite/maintain_septic.htm [copy on file as Alaska_Septic_Care.pdf]
- [4] Installers Manual for Conventional Onsite Domestic Wastewater Treatment and Disposal Systems", Alaska Department of Environmental Conservation, Division of Water, retrieved 1/15/2001, original source: [copy on file as Alaska_Certified_Installer's_Manual.pdf]
- US EPA Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual [online copy, free] Top Reference: US EPA's Design Manual for Onsite Wastewater Treatment and Disposal, 1980, available from the US EPA, the US GPO Superintendent of Documents (Pueblo CO), and from the National Small Flows Clearinghouse. Original source http://www.epa.gov/ORD/NRMRL/Pubs/625R00008/625R00008.htm Onsite wastewater treatment and disposal systems,
Richard J Otis, published by the US EPA. Although it's more than 20 years old, this book remains a useful reference for septic system designers.
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, Office of Water Program Operations; Office of Research and Development, Municipal Environmental Research Laboratory; (1980)
- Eco John® Innovative Toilet Solutions, Global Inventive Industries, Fountain Valley CA, PDF, product brochure
- "International Private Sewage Disposal Code," 1995, BOCA-708-799-2300, ICBO-310-699-0541, SBCCI 205-591-1853, available from those code associations.
- "Manual of Policy, Procedures, and Guidelines for Onsite Sewage Systems," Ontario Reg. 374/81, Part VII of the Environmental
Protection Act (Canada), ISBN 0-7743-7303-2, Ministry of the Environment,135 St. Clair Ave. West, Toronto Ontario M4V 1P5 Canada $24. CDN.
- Manual of Septic Tank Practice, US Public Health Service's 1959.
- Advanced Onsite Wastewater Systems Technologies, Anish R. Jantrania, Mark A. Gross. Anish Jantrania, Ph.D., P.E., M.B.A., is a Consulting Engineer, in Mechanicsville VA, 804-550-0389
(2006), Advanced Onsite Wastewater Systems Technologies.
Outstanding technical reference especially on alternative septic system design alternatives. Written for designers and engineers, this book is not at all easy going
for homeowners but is a text we recommend for professionals--DF.
- Builder's Guide to Wells and Septic Systems, Woodson, R. Dodge: $ 24.95; MCGRAW HILL B; TP;
Quoting from Amazon's description: For the homebuilder, one mistake in estimating or installing wells and septic systems can cost thousands of dollars. This comprehensive guide filled with case studies can prevent that. Master plumber R. Dodge Woodson packs this reader-friendly guide with guidance and information, including details on new techniques and materials that can economize and expedite jobs and advice on how to avoid mistakes in both estimating and construction. Chapters cover virtually every aspect of wells and septic systems, including on-site evaluations; site limitations; bidding; soil studies, septic designs, and code-related issues; drilled and dug wells, gravel and pipe, chamber-type, and gravity septic systems; pump stations; common problems with well installation; and remedies for poor septic situations. Woodson also discusses ways to increase profits by avoiding cost overruns.
- Country Plumbing: Living with a Septic System, Hartigan, Gerry: $ 9.95; ALAN C HOOD & TP;
Quoting an Amazon reviewer's comment, with which we agree--DF:This book is informative as far as it goes and might be most useful for someone with an older system. But it was written in the early 1980s. A lot has changed since then. In particular, the book doesn't cover any of the newer systems that are used more and more nowadays in some parts of the country -- sand mounds, aeration systems, lagoons, etc.
- Onsite Wastewater Disposal, R. J. Perkins;
Quoting from Amazon: This practical book, co-published with the National Environmental Health Association,
describes the step-by-step procedures needed to avoid common pitfalls in septic system technology.
Valuable in matching the septic system to the site-specific conditions, this useful book will help you install a reliable system in
both suitable and difficult environments. Septic tank installers, planners, state and local regulators, civil and sanitary engineers,
consulting engineers, architects, homeowners, academics, and land developers will find this publication valuable.
- Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems, Bennette D. Burks, Mary Margaret Minnis, Hogarth House 1994 - one of the best septic system books around, suffering a bit from small fonts and a weak index. (DF volunteers to serve as indexer if Burks/Minnis re-publish this very useful volume.) While it contains some material more technical than needed by homeowners, Burks/Minnis book on onsite wastewater treatment systems a very useful reference
for both property owners and septic system designers. We refer to it often.
While Minnis says the best place to buy this book is at Amazon (our link at left), you can also see this book at Minnis' website at http://web page .pace.edu/MMinnisbook
- Septic Tank/Soil-Absorption Systems: How to Operate & Maintain [ copy on file as /septic/Septic_Operation_USDA.pdf ] - , Equipment Tips, U.S. Department of Agriculture, 8271 1302, 7100 Engineering, 2300 Recreation, September 1982, web search 08/28/2010, original source: http://www.fs.fed.us/t-d/pubs/pdfimage/82711302.pdf
- Test Pit Preparation for Onsite Sewage Evaluations, State of Oregon Department of Environmental Quality, Portland OR, 800 452-4011. PDF document. We recommend this excellent document that offers detail about soil perc tests, deep hole tests, safety, and septic design. Readers should also see Soil Percolation Tests and for testing an existing septic system, also see Dye Tests
- Grass is Always Greener Over the Septic Tank, Bombeck, Erma: $ 5.99; FAWCETT; MM;
This septic system classic whose title helps avoid intimidating readers new to septic systems, is available new or used at very low prices.
It's more entertainment than a serious "how to" book on septic systems design, maintenance, or repair. Not recommended -- DF.
- US EPA Onsite Wastewater Treatment Systems Manual Top Reference: US EPA's Design Manual for Onsite Wastewater Treatment and Disposal, 1980, available from the US EPA, the US GPO Superintendent of Documents (Pueblo CO), and from the National Small Flows Clearinghouse. Original source http://www.epa.gov/ORD/NRMRL/Pubs/625R00008/625R00008.htm
- Water Wells and Septic Systems Handbook, R. Dodge Woodson. This book is in the upper price range, but is worth the cost for serious septic installers and designers.
Quoting Amazon: Each year, thousands upon thousands of Americans install water wells and septic systems on their properties. But with a maze of codes governing their use along with a host of design requirements that ensure their functionality where can someone turn for comprehensive, one-stop guidance? Enter the Water Wells and Septic Systems Handbook from McGraw-Hill.
Written in language any property owner can understand yet detailed enough for professionals and technical students this easy-to-use volume delivers the latest techniques and code requirements for designing, building, rehabilitating, and maintaining private water wells and septic systems. Bolstered by a wealth of informative charts, tables, and illustrations, this book delivers:
* Current construction, maintenance, and repair methods
* New International Private Sewage Disposal Code
* Up-to-date standards from the American Water Works Association
- Wells and Septic Systems, Alth, Max and Charlet, Rev. by S. Blackwell Duncan, $ 18.95; Tab Books 1992. We have found this text very useful for conventional well and septic systems design and maintenance --DF.
Quoting an Amazon description:Here's all the information you need to build a well or septic system yourself - and save a lot of time, money, and frustration. S. Blackwell Duncan has thoroughly revised and updated this second edition of Wells and Septic Systems to conform to current codes and requirements. He also has expanded this national bestseller to include new material on well and septic installation, water storage and distribution, water treatment, ecological considerations, and septic systems for problem building sites.
- The NSFC Products List has an excellent list of design manuals/modules available from their website or by telephone 800-624-8301
Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair
- Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.
Questions & answers about septic tank inlet tee and outlet tee requirements, function, and installation or repair Online Book, Inspection, Test, Diagnosis, Repair, & Maintenance: our Online Septic Book: Septic Testing, Loading & Dye Tests, Septic Tank Pumping, Clearances, details of onsite waste disposal system inspection, testing, repair procedures.
- Soil Percolation Tests soil perc testing guide and instructions
- Percolation Testing Manual, CNMI Division of Environmental Quality, PO Box 501304, Saipan, MP 96950
- Planting Over Septic System Component", Daniel Friedman (author/editor, InspectAPedia.com), The Innovator, Winter/Spring 2008, BCOSSA, British Columbia OnSite Sewage Association, 201-3542 Blansard St., Victoria BC V8X 1W3 Canada
- Save the Septic System - Do Not Flush These Items Down the Toilet, Daniel Friedman, InspectAPedia.com - PDF document, printable
- SEPTIC STANDARDS
- SEPTIC MAGAZINES
- Septic System Owner's Manual, Lloyd Kahn, Blair Allen, Julie Jones, Shelter Publications, 2000 $14.95 U.S. - easy to understand, well illustrated, one of the best practical references around on septic design basics including some advanced systems; a little short on safety and maintenance. Both new and used (low priced copies are available, and we think the authors are working on an updated edition--DF.
Quoting from one of several Amazon reviews: The basics of septic systems, from underground systems and failures to what the owner can do to promote and maintain a healthy system, is revealed in an excellent guide essential for any who reside on a septic system. Rural residents receive a primer on not only the basics; but how to conduct period inspections and what to do when things go wrong. History also figures into the fine coverage.
- Submissions welcome. send us a suggested document link or request an exchange of website links
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