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How to control indoor humidity to avoid indoor air quality complaints, mold and dust mites.
This article answers the question "What indoor humidity level should I maintain to avoid mold and indoor air quality issues?" We explain the need for maintaining an anti-mold low humidity level indoors to avoid mold and other indoor pathogen growth in buildings.
We also discuss where and how to measure indoor humidity, what indoor humidity targets to set, and we explain relative humidity, dew point, and moisture condensation in and on building materials.
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What are the more common problematic indoor molds?
We recommend use of dehumidifiers and humidity instruments or humidity transmitters to monitor your building. But no dehumidification system will be up to the task of preventing mold if a building has serious leaks, flooding, or water entry.
No dehumidifier, no "air cleaner," no "ozone generator," nor other magic machine, spray, or air treatment will correct a mold problem in a building if there is a significant problem reservoir.
For that case, what's needed is to find the mold problem, remove it, and correct its cause. And as a last warning, there are about 1.5 million mold species - some of them may be able to grow in very dry or very wet or other inhospitable conditions.
Mold spores are everywhere all the time, entering from outdoor air as well as on pets and clothing.
A mold spore landing on an indoor surface is likely to be insignificant and amount to little more than a common component of indoor dust, until such a mold spore lands on an organic surface (such as drywall) and the indoor humidity level and thus the humidity or moisture level of the surface on which the mold spore rests, is sufficiently high. Since a mold spore requires moisture to propagate and grow, the indoor humidity level is a key gating factor in the control of indoor mold (and dust mites) in buildings.
Certain common mold genera and species, such as some members of the Aspergillus sp. and others grow readily on common building materials if they also have enough moisture. While there are fungal species that are able to grow under a remarkably wide range of environmental conditions, keeping indoor humidity at the appropriate level will reduce the chances of growth of the most common indoor problem molds.
We refer to common problem indoor toxic or allergenic molds such as Aspergillus sp., Penicillium sp., Stachybotrys sp. /S. chartarum /Memnoniella echinata, Trichoderma sp. /T. viride, Ulocladium sp. /U. chartarum, and at a less significant level of concern, Cladosporium sp. and its common indoor species such as C. sphaerospermum and C. cladosporioides.
A number of Basidiomycetes and Ascomycetes also appear indoors as wood rotters and on other wet or damp building materials, though they may as a group be less often toxic or pathogenic to humans and more often an indicator of wet or damp mold-conducive indoor conditions.
Our table of the most commonly found indoor molds growing in buildings has been moved to a separate online document. See Table of Most Common Indoor Molds Found in buildings. Use the back button on your browser to return to this page.
DUST MITES & BACTERIA - Excessive Humidity Encourages Dust Mites, Dust Mite Allergen Production, Bacterial and Insect Hazards Indoors
High indoor humidity can encourage more problems than indoor mold. The same moisture conditions that support growth of problematic indoor molds also encourage the development of bacterial hazards, dust mite populations, a mite fecal allergen problem, and possibly other insect problems in buildings.
The same measures to control humidity to prevent mold growth are what's needed to discourage the dust mite population that exists in all living areas. Measures discussed in this article including choosing and maintaining the proper humidity level to avoid indoor mold will also work to minimize the level of dust mites and dust mite allergens.
What humidity level is needed? - How low should we keep the interior moisture level to avoid a mold problem?
Suppose a building does not currently have a mold problem, or a mold cleanup project has been completed. How can we avoid a future mold problem in the building?
1. be sure there are no ongoing building leaks, water entry, or venting problems.
2. keep the indoor humidity level in the mid-comfort range. A maximum indoor relative humidity of 55% RH may be acceptable, 50% RH better, 45% RH for an attic knee wall provided there are no ongoing leaks and the attic space is not one which is being vented to outside (in that case you're not in control of the humidity. If you run humidity too low or too high the building occupants will be uncomfortable.
The text below offers more technical background on indoor relative humidity (RH) control. This is getting slightly more technical about measuring the relative humidity - knowing a little more about how indoor air moves, how moisture levels vary in air and in building materials, and how to set the best humidity targets will improve the management of indoor moisture levels.
HUMIDITY IN BASEMENTS - How do We Control Basement Humidity to Reduce Mold and Dust Mite Allergen Risk
If the RH in the center of a basement is 55% it is likely that at the walls or corners, where there is less air circulation, the RH may be different. The local temperature difference close to a cool masonry wall surface means that both temperature and measured relative humidity close to the wall will be different than in the center of a room.
But it's at the cooler wall surface that condensation may be expected to occur. If you measure the RH at the worst-case location such as the most-suspect-of-dampness corner of a basement and you're 55% close to the wall you're likely to be ok.
Reader Question: what is the best way to reduce humidity level in a basement? Vent the drop ceiling?
I was thinking of installing an attic-style vent fan horizontally through that wall in the area between the drop ceiling and the subfloor to create air movement and to vent the air to the outside. Will that help reduce the RH? Thanks. - D.M. 6/4/2013
Our illustration at left shows where to look for moisture in and leak problems in basements, courtesy of Carson Dunlop Associates. Click to enlarge.
Reply: here are the basic steps in reducing & controlling basement humidity level
Interesting question; I think we need more information to make an answer beyond mere arm-waving;
While years ago we thought that we should vent crawlspaces and perhaps basements with outdoor air - still reflected in crawl space or foundation vent opening size ratios found in some building codes.
Current best construction practices, now better informed, have shifted to making the indoors a closed, conditioned space. That's because the moisture level and temperature of outdoor air vary so widely in many areas that under many conditions mere venting makes indoor moisture levels worse not better.
Generally your best approach to reducing the high humidity in a basement combines
Also take a look at the collection of suggestions under CRAWL SPACE DRYOUT - home
In the case of an attic crawl space, perhaps a knee-wall area abutting an upper floor bedroom, the risk of excessive inside humidity at a wall is much less than in a basement. In the attic we don't face a cool concrete-block wall surface in the attic.
But what about an un-vented attic in a cold weather climate? Heat loss into such a space and warm moist air leaking into such a space can indeed create high levels of problem moisture - enough to wet surfaces or even form frost and later drip onto the attic floor.
On the other hand, if the attic is vented to outside (ridge vents and soffit vents as I recommend) you'll never control the attic RH. You'll be trying to control the whole outdoors.
On the third hand (if that's possible), if an attic is not vented to outside, the RH there is most-likely a function of and approach the levels of the humidity levels in the air in the rooms abutting and below the attic area.
TARGET HUMIDITY - How to Choose the Target Humidity Level or Relative Indoor Humidity Level to avoid Mold and Dust Mite Problems
One client said he could keep the basement at 55% Relative Humidity (RH) but he didn't want to push it below that. Is this enough safety margin?
At 60% indoor RH we're entering the indoor problem mold-formation risk zone of high interior moisture in building wall or ceiling cavities or on wall and floor surfaces, possibly conducive to mold growth.
If you set the RH target at 55%, you're operating with **not much safety margin** of dryness. A small change in outdoor conditions (spilling water by the foundation) or indoor conditions (a nearby roof, wall, window, plumbing leak) can increase the moisture and RH into the problem zone. If for reasons of dehumidification cost you have to operate close to the edge, extra attention to leaks, moisture proofing, roof and surface drainage are even more important.
REACHING THE TARGET - When Have You Reached the Indoor Humidity Target to Avoid Mold and Dust Mites?
When have you reached your mold avoiding relative humidity RH target? If a building has been damp for some time, moisture has been absorbed into various materials such as wood framing and masonry surfaces. It may take weeks or even longer to drop the humidity in such an area, as the moist materials also have to dry out, not just the air. Using a fan to increase air movement in the area being dehumidified can speed this process.
Warning: if you cannot get the indoor RH down to a low level in a below-grade area such as a basement or crawl space, I'd suspect that too much moisture is continuing to enter through the slab or masonry walls. Attention to outside drainage may not be enough. In such cases, coating the walls with a masonry sealer (Thoro-Seal™ or Dry-Lok™ are example products) might help.
If you want to get past this practical discussion of indoor humidity and mold, check out "Understanding Ventilation," by John Bower. The Healthy House Institute, 1995.
More than a normal person can stand to read about what to do about mold in buildings is at our website. You might start at the "Mold Information Center - What to Do About Mold in buildings"
Relative Humidity vs. Absolute Humidity in buildings
A variety of instruments can measure the amount of moisture in air, which we call "humidity." For example an inexpensive indoor "weather station" often includes a "humidity" gauge along with a barometer and thermometer. But just knowing the level of moisture in air (absolute humidity) is not enough. Usually, the humidity targets we use in these articles, and in academic or scientific texts are numbers expressed as relative humidity which takes into account not only the absolute water level in the air, but also the air temperature.
Relative humidity, by taking into account both the absolute humidity in the air and the temperature of the air, is telling you the humidity level as a function of the maximum amount of water that the air is capable of containing at a given temperature. If we're trying to control mold and other indoor pathogens for which water is a gating factor, it's relative humidity that is important.
Why? Because water condenses out of air onto a building surface (and thus supports mold or other indoor pathogens) only when the air at that surface contains more water than it can hold at that temperature. When warm, moist air contacts a cool surface, your basement drywall near the floor, for example, the air touching that surface may cool and give up some of its moisture to condense on the surface.
See TOOLS for MEASURING HUMIDITY for accuracy and options for indoor humidity measurement equipment.
Variations in Indoor Relative Humidity by Building Area and Surface Type
The relative humidity, or "RH" will vary significantly in a building at a given moment, depending on where you make your observations.
Here are some example RH measurements from a recent investigation at a 1970's wood frame two story home in generally good condition, after an extensive mold remediation and dryout project, where the owner had been running two dehumidifiers in the basement, and where there were no building leaks:
Notice, with no surprise, that the RH is higher close to the (cool) masonry surface? This explains our reasoning in suggesting a fairly low basement RH target for buildings if we're going to measure the RH in the center of the room.
Some dehumidifiers have an RH meter built right into the machine, so it will tell you what RH level it's seeing in its incoming air. But for operating efficiency you'll often run the machine in the center of the room.
The target humidity for a building, if measured at room center, needs to be low enough to avoid condensation out on cool surfaces at the room perimeter or floor.
To avoid moisture condensation on cool basement or other building surfaces, we need to keep the RH down below the dew point at those surfaces. The "dew point" is the temperature at which moisture will condense out of the air. The dew point is determined by the combination of the current temperature of the surface, the air temperature, and the humidity level.
If we were being scientifically precise we'd monitor all of the pertinent data - surface temperature, air temperature, relative humidity, and indoor air movement across surfaces. For our purposes, setting a reasonably low room-center target RH will usually be enough. But remember, even if you don't see water condensing on and running down your basement walls, it doesn't mean that the walls won't be at a notably higher moisture level than the air in the center of the room.
See DEW POINT TABLE - CONDENSATION POINT GUIDE for details about the dew point and how to measure or calculate it for a building area or surface.
Water molecules are very smart. They will naturally move from a moist area or surface to a more dry one, tending to seek equilibrium moisture across all surfaces and materials in a building, always considering the factors We have discussed above: temperature, relative humidity, and dew point. So if humidity increases in a basement from warm moist air entering that space, moisture will begin to enter the more dry drywall and insulation materials.
Conversely, as you run a dehumidifier in the basement, moisture will be removed first from the basement air, and then as that dry air contacts more-moist basement surfaces (drywall and insulation, for example), moisture will move from those materials back into the air. Moisture moves in either direction, into the air from materials, or into materials from air, always moving from the more-moist to the less moist substance, seeking equilibrium. This is why there will be a lot of water output from a basement dehumidifier when it is first run in an area, and then later water output will slow.
No. Why does water condense on your cold water pipes overhead in the basement before it condenses on the steel Lally columns supporting your main girder?
Perhaps because cold water (at 40 deg.F.) is running through the water pipe, cooling its surface to a lower temperature (40 deg.F.) than that of the Lally column (perhaps 55 deg.F.). Water pipes do not "sweat" as people say - water is not exuding out of pores in the pipe. Water is condensing from moist air onto the surface of the cold water pipe. Insulate your cold water pipes to avoid condensation and drips onto the floor. It looks like sweat, but it's not.
For a different reason, that of energy efficiency, you might want to insulate your hot water and heating pipes in a basement as well, though in some conditions we are so desperate to warm and dry a problem area that we deliberately leave the hot water and heating pipe insulation off so that we can steal some of their heat to warm and dry an area.
Similarly, moisture will condense out of moisture-containing air on cool building surfaces like stone, brick, metal, concrete floors or walls or ceilings, and on tile floors or walls set over cool or cold surfaces.
I have 3 dehumidifiers going plus the central air and the basement and first floor are at 50 - 55% humidity but I can not get the top floor where the bedrooms and bathroom is below 60% in the spring/summer/fall. Some days it even goes to 65%.
We had a mold problem 7 years ago and had professional remediation and have not seen any evidence of mold since but I have developed chronic sinus and bronchial problems that I wonder if it is being caused by mold spores.
I thought maybe humidity coming from the attic but then the floor downstairs would be affected also as it is a multilevel house and the kitchen/dining/living room area is directly under the attic also and it is 50% down there so I do not know how to fix the humidity problem. Any help would be appreciated as I am tired of being sick. Thank you. (this is the first summer I have been sick like this and can not get over it) - Anonymous 9/12/11
Reply: a strategy for correcting high indoor moisture levels and possible mold or dust mite reservoirs
Although sometimes we find surprising down-currents of air and moisture from a building attic, that's not the most common indoor moisture problem source.
Since we haven't inspected your building and know next to nothing about it, we have to outline a more general strategy for reducing high indoor moisture:
At MOISTURE CONTROL in BUILDINGS and also with more focus on sources of indoor moisture
At MOISTURE METER STUDY we include examples of the difficulty of measuring moisture in building walls and ceilings and we show points of hidden leaks that may affect indoor humidity levels.
Reader Question: Supply-only Vent System Troubles: PIV system not dehumidifying an interior space consistently
I have recently installed a PIV system and have been logging the temperature and humidity in the most suspect corner of a wardrobe of a north facing bedroom. In general, the PIV system is keeping us in the 55% RH area but for no apparent reason it will drift up to 60-62% which is really frustrating.
I have no idea why I am seeing these variations. Any thoughts on how I should analyse and draw conclusions on my data logs?
[Click to enlarge any image]
Photographs here of a Nuaire owner-installed system were provided by the reader, R.L.
Reply: Nuaire Ventilation System Installation Details
Assuming you refer to PIV meaning a "positive input ventilation" system like the NuAire system sold in the U.K., the operating premise of the system is the continued introduction of filtered outdoor air into the building at a continuous rate, presumably putting the building at positive pressure with respect to the outdoors and thus causing indoor air to move outside through other building leaks or vents.
A further underlying premise is that the relative humidity of outdoor air is always below that of indoor air. This is true for buildings in which there are significant moisture sources (use of plumbing, cooking, occupants, or a wet basement or crawl area). But it may not always be the case.
Relative temperatures between indoors and outside are also a factor. A commissioned installation by experts would include measurements of building air flow, air changes per hour ACH, and humidity levels.
In the U.K. Nuaire offers an HRV Best Practices Guide (cited below) that may be helpful. The company warns that installing any ventilation system without first studying building conditions is (in my words) a bit uncertain.
Here is what Nuaire says about controlling condensation or moisture when installing a PIV system:
An expert, if one designed and installed your system would also have looked at building air flow rates or air change rates expressed as air changes per hour (ACH).
An improperly-sized, installed, or located unit can give unsatisfactory results including indoor moisture and moisture-related mould problems, poor indoor air quality or fan noise issues.
I would also look for both apparent and clandestine moisture sources in the building. The fact that you found most concern at a wardrobe (do you mean a closet or a piece of furniture?) may simply reflect temperature differences in that location.
In the U.S. we also refer to PIVs as Supply Only Ventilation Systems. The operation of supply ventilation systems or PIVs is discussed in more detail by our contributor and expert Steven Bliss at
VENTILATION, SUPPLY-ONLY - inspectapedia.com/BestPractices/Ventilation_Supply_Only.htm
Heat Recovery Ventilation System Installation Requirements
For U.K. readers, as of 1 October 2010 revisions to Approved Document F-F1 the Means of Ventilation, applicable to people living in England and Wales requires that all Mechanical Ventilation & Heat Recovery System (MVHR) installations require that such systems be commissioned using a qualified, competent expert in compliance with 2010 ADF2010 regulations.
Among the requirements for these ventilation systems are conditions that will improve the installation and performance of any mechanical ventilation or heat recovery ventilation system wherever you live: [Paraphrasing from the Nuaire Best Practices Guide cited above and again in detail at REFERENCES]
[Click to enlarge any image]
1/1/2015 Anonymous said:
Thanks for getting back that's really helpful. You guessed correctly, I am in the UK and I am using a Nuaire Drimaster. We noticed the skirting boards in our bungalow in several places and different rooms smelled mouldy and taking some of them off revealed white mould growth on the back but the bricks in the walls behind the skirtings seemed dry in general so we suspected the moisture source was internal (people, baths, cooking, etc.). We measured the humidity with a cheap device and saw it at 70-75%.
Due to cost reasons, I fitted it myself in the location they were proposing. I don't think they did any complex analysis of air movement. There are not many companies in the UK who specialize in analyzing these types of issues and it's not obvious who to go to here to be honest.
I also have a monitoring device in the wardrobe which is logging RH and temperature every 10 minutes. [See graph shown above]
If you are interested I have posted my data here for the last few days since I have been monitoring.
As you can see, after some initially encouraging results, 50-55%, the RH has risen to over 60% today which is a little disappointing and it's night time now so it may rise more in the next few hours. Today has been warmer than the last few days so this is extra confusing as a higher temperature should mean a lower RH I think?
Anyway, I will continue to monitor and think about things. Other factors could be whether or not we open our trickle vents above each window or not. At the moment we are trying it with them closed. Nuaire think it shouldn't matter too much but I guess this could affect the direction of airflow quite a bit away from the PIV as the air will take the path of minimum resistance I expect. i.e. an open window.
Regards and thanks again
By the way, the "white mould" on bricks may not be mould at all but simply effloresence - a mineral salt left behind as moisture evaporates. Still that high moisture does mean there's a risk of mould contamination in the area.
Also see the white or light colored mold discussed at MILDEW in BUILDINGS ?
I took a look at your data (and would like your OK to add your nice graphs to the article above) - but I can't see any data about the incoming (outdoor or loft) air humidity or temperature. You want to compare incoming air temperature and RH with that from inside the building to know if you're gaining or losing ground.
Is your Nuaire Drimaster installed in a loft and in keeping with the company's recommendations or have you installed it in a different schema?
You might do some simple, low -cost tests using toilet tissue or talcum powder or smoke or even a match to see which way air is flowing at your windows or doors.
Don't forget to look for condensate leaks in the ducting too.
Also, have you experimented with the fan boost that the company describes as
1/2/2015 Richard wrote
The white spots on the back of some of the wooden skirtings are definitely mould because there is a distinctive smell, I was aware of efflorescence but thanks for pointing out that possibility. Feel free to use my graph. I think I may get hold of another monitoring system and install that into the loft space so that I can simultaneously log that as well, I think that's a good suggestion. If I get better plots showing both I am happy to share. I could supply photos of my installation if you are interested? I believe it is all in keeping with the Nuaire information.
As I write this, the RH is 62% when it was as low as 51% a few days ago. At the moment I have the system running on the highest speed setting. The lights are a little confusing but 3 LEDs on means the highest and it sounds like the highest from the fan sound.
Agreed, Richard. White on wood can certainly be a fungus. I was referring to white on masonry which is more likely effloresence.
Please use our email found at the CONTACT US link at page top or page bottom to send photos. I'd like to see photos of the venting installation as well as of the moisture effects such as mold growth.
Regarding the Nuaire PIV installation you sent and that are shown above, the installation workmanship looks neat.
Watch out: I can't see enough of the attic / loft to know conditions there. Is there good fresh air intake and outlet throughout the loft itself? If not we could have a wierd situation in which the Nuaire blower intake located in the loft creates a negative pressure in the loft that draws air from the occupied space instead of from outside. IF that were the case we'd be short-circuiting the whole design concept.
The loft is generally well ventilated. This was improved several years ago when we noticed large amounts of dripping condensation in the loft, the stains are still visible in 20150102_184020.jpg, but the loft is now pretty dry. This is probably all related to the same problem we are dealing with now. The loft work several years ago involved two aspects:
(1) clearing the fibre glass insulation material away from the the soffit boards around the edges of the roof which provide ventilation and were being blocked since the original build of the property 12 years ago.
(2) installation of some small white sprung devices to help push apart the roofing felt and create extra air flow. These little devices are visible in image 20150102_184020.jpg above the Nuaire equipment within the roofing felt.
This greatly reduced the condensation problem we were seeing in the loft. The loft was inspected by the consultants who recommended the Nuaire and they made no recommendation for extra ventilation.
Could you send me a URL for any articles you put together please relating to this, as I would be interested.
Sure. See these articles on attic ventilation:
I'm not thrilled about pushing openings as your illustrations show as I worry about condensation and moisture between the felt and the roof deck - but then there's a lot more to know: what is covering the roof outside, where the insulation is located, and the balance of air intake to air exhaust for the loft. Basicallly you want more air intake than air exhaust opening, maybe 2:1 to be sure you're not sucking conditioned air out of the building below.
Continue reading at DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS or select a topic from the More Reading links shown below.
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Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Question/Comment: excessive indoor humidity traced to high velocity air conditioning system coil condensation blow-off
For years I've been trying to figure out the excessive humidity problem in my home too. I finally found it after working with foundation people, plumbers, a/c techs -- nobody could figure it out, but I finally did. When the cooling kicks on, the moisture level skyrockets. It has affected the inside of my home tremendously. We thought it was the a/c drain. They re-routed it, made sure it was draining well and clear. It is. Leak near or under the foundation. We checked everything-that wasn't it.
What's happening is the fan is actually sucking the moisture out of the evaporator coils before the condensation off the coils can drain away. The design of this Lennox horizontal system in the attic is such that the small space right above and right below the squirrel type fan, creates a venturi effect, increasing the velocity of the air being sucked into the fan.
The velocity of the air is so strong that the coils (about 12 in. away) have the moisture sucked right off of them and into the fan, which, of course is then blown into the ducting. I'm not sure if this is an engineering design problem, if the a/c co. wired the fan to a speed that's too high, or if perhaps a part is missing that is supposed to prevent this.
Regardless, the inside of the unit is now so covered with mildew and mold and the electrical connections on the heating elements as well as all the electrical connections on the inside of the unit, are so corroded and rusted, it's a wonder that love thing works at all. (This also probably explains why sometimes the heat works and sometimes it doesn't. The a/c repair guys have never been able to figure out why. They always seem to think it's the t'stat. It's not. It's new and has recently been completely re-wired when I moved it from an outside wall to an inside wall.)
Anyway, that's where MY moisture problem is coming from. Good luck! - Mike / DFW 12/13/2012
Mike, gold star to you for good detective work. We will keep your note in this article, as it will surely help other readers.
More about dehumidifcation problems traced to central air conditioning systems can be read at DEHUMIDIFICATION PROBLEMS.
Question: effect of spray foam insulation on relative humidity with different vent systems
(Apr 21, 2014) if you have sprayed foam insulation in an attic in louisiana and fiberglass insulation in rafters at correct r factor will the relative humidity be better with no ridge vents or whirlybirds.i think the attic is air tight with foam sprayed on the underside of the roof.the attic does stay cooler but i was just wondering about air flow or ventilation .
Adding insulation and cutting ventilation do not themselves reduce indoor humidity in a warm humid climate, but operating air conditioning, provided it is not over-sized, will reduce the indoor humidity level. The contribution of the insulation in this case is the reduction of heat gain by the buidling, reducing the cooling costs.
Beware that if the building design drives moisture into any building cavities (roof, walls for example) trapped moisture there invites mold, rot, and insect trouble. So the building design needs to include attention to ceiling and wall vapor barriers (in LA typically on the warm outside) and penetrations or air leaks.
Question: will adequate roof venting reduce indoor relative humidityu
(May 22, 2014) Chi said:
Should a sufficient roof/attic ventilation reduce the RH??
Without trying to re-calculate your numbers against a standard, I'd say of course in humid weather your indoor RH won't be down at 35%, but probably more useful is this comment:
IF you run your A/C and the interior cools off enough to satisfy the thermostat but the humidity is still uncomfortably high then your A/C system may be oversized - and so not dehumidifying.
Roof ventilation, or attic ventilation, properly balanced between intake and exhaust may cool an attic but it would not directly affect the humidity of the occupied spaces below - with an exception that in circumstances of excessive condensation or even frost formation in an attic, that space can become a moisture source against the ceiling or occupied spaces below.
Question: where to start with excessive condensation on windows
(Oct 6, 2014) TonyC said:
Living in CT, experiencing condensation on the inside glass of my windows on the main living area, and second floor, none in the basement. The indoor temperature read 66 degrees and humidity indicated at 46%, not sure if this is RH or absolute. The outside temperature was 39 degrees with the weather station indicating 94% humidity.
We seem to experience these problems during the Fall seasons as temperatures gradually change to Winter where we require the heat to be on. We can find no visible drivers for excessive moisture in the home. We use bathroom fans that ventilate to the outside when showering and for 20 minutes afterward.
We have an exhaust fan that ducts to the outside over our cooktop and that is on when we cook. Some windows are worse than others particularly those that face the north and east and this is always noticeable in the morning. Is it possible all my windows are failing. They are 10 years old, but we have had this problem for several years, I am only just finding this site to ask a question. We are lost as to where to begin to try to solve this. Any ideas would be appreciated
IF windows are "failing" and we are referring to insulated glass, you'd more likely see moisture collecting between the panes.
If windows are failing by becoming leaky or drafty you can detect that using a smoke test or perhaps thermography.
I'd start by asking why moisture might be higher in the problem room than in others.
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