What Causes "Water Pump Short Cycling" - a water pump turning on and off too rapidly InspectAPedia® -
well system do-it-yourself repairs -->
How to diagnose & correct short cycling "on-off" of the building water pump
How to adjust the water pump pressure control switch
How to add air back to a water pressure tank
Well pump & water tank diagnosis & repair procedures
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CAUSES OF SHORT CYCLING - What causes short cycling of a water pump?
The most-common cause of pump short-cycling is loss of air in the water pressure tank. This is the
topic discussed at length below, and corrective steps are detailed. However there could be other, less
common plumbing problems that cause this symptom. Before "fixing" a problem it's useful to identify
the correct problem, less we waste time, effort, and money. Some water pump short cycle causes include the
following:
Loss of sufficient air charge in the water tank - this is a common problem with older
water tanks, and its remedy is discussed in great detail below at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS.
This website tells you how to restore lost air in the water tank, starting
at HOW TO ADD AIR.
A defective water pressure control switch. Switch contacts can burn-up, or the opening into the switch
which senses the water pressure in the system can become clogged with sediment or debris. This usually
shows up as failure of the pump switch to turn on or off at all, rather than short cycling. But the switch could be damaged or improperly adjusted, causing "short water pump cycling."
Technical note: Clogging of the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch if your water has a high level of silt, debris, or minerals, it's possible
that the tubing or piping connecting the pump pressure switch to the pump or water piping, or the pump switch bottom orifice through which the pressure switch senses the water pressure in the system has become clogged.
The small diameter of this tubing and still smaller diameter of the pump switch orifice makes clogging easy if your well water is high in sediment or minerals.
A clogged water pump pressure control switch will often fail to turn on the well pump at all, even though the pressure in the system has dropped
below the water pump "cut in" pressure. Reader Jeff Crosby reported an example of this pressure switch clog problem:
[When our well pump kept short cycling and I was unable to get the well pump pressure control switch to work properly, ...] I ended up calling the pump service company to come over. There was an extreme amount of mineral buildup inside the pump where the copper tubing initially comes out to travel to the pressure switch. I thought about checking that out but did not know how funny. There has always been an awl sitting on the pump base for the longest time. One of their maintenance guys left it there long ago. Now I know why - ever since that date when they come do their yearly check up they knock out this sediment [using the awl to open the tubing so that the pressure switch can accurately sense the water pressure in the system]. -- Jeff Crosby
On rare occasions we can tap on the well pump control switch and it will begin
working again, but not for long, and not reliably. Another water pressure control switch failure is the
rupture of a rubber disk or "bladder" inside the switch itself. If you detect or suspect a defective pressure
control switch, try replacing it with a new one.
We see a similar problem affecting water pressure gauges on private water systems: debris or mineral deposits can clog the pressure sensing orifice on the water pressure gauge, causing it to fail to respond at all, or to respond inaccurately to changes in water pressure.
When we find a clogged water pump pressure switch or the tubing connected to it, or a clogged water pressure gauge, we replace those items. A well pump pressure gauge that does not respond to pressure changes is potentially unsafe as it could lead to excessive pressurization of the water tank and building piping.
A blockage in the water supply piping. For example, a clogged or nearly-clogged water filter can cause the
pump control to cycle on and off rapidly. This is because the blockage causes water pressure (between the pump and the filter)
to rise very rapidly when the pump turns on. The author once replaced a pump control switch only to discover that
the real problem was a clogged filter, so check this item if you have filter(s) installed on the system.
A clogged water filter can block water flow between a pump and water tank or between a water tank and
the rest of the building. Try changing the water filter by installing a new cartridge; temporary diagnosis can be
made by simply removing a suspect water filter cartridge from its canister entirely. I've also seen a clogged
water filter cause water pump short cycling, with a rapid "on-off" pump cycle (which is bad for the pump and
pump relay switch.)
Tips for diagnosing water filters as a cause of well pump short cycling:
If your water filter has a bypass valve, try opening that valve to see if the short cycling stops. If there is no bypass valve for your water filter, turn off the pump and valves around the water filter, then remove the water filter cartridge and reassemble the unit. If the short cycling problem stops you probably had a clogged water filter. Replace the water filter cartridge.
Technical note: the same clay, silt, or other debris that clogs a water filter
can clog up the pressure sensing opening in the bottom of a pump pressure control switch, as we discussed just above.
So if you are looking for a clogged filter, if changing
the water filter does not correct a problem with the water pump cycling operation, also consider a possibly-clogged pump pressure switch.
Too much air in the water pressure tank - overcharging: If a well pump pressure control switch is set to cut on at 30 psi and off
at 50 psi, at the cutoff point the water tank is empty (a bladder type captive air tank) or nearly empty (a traditional water tank)
of water, and the air pressure in the tank is about at 30 psi.
The well pump comes on and re pressurizes the tank with incoming water, until
the tank pressure of both air and water increases to the pump cut-off point of 50 psi. If someone puts too much air in a conventional
water tank (overcharging) the excess air usually simply blows out of a nearby faucet the next time the water is run, and the system
will correct itself. But if someone overcharges a captive air water tank the excess air can't escape.
Overcharging when water tank is full: If the previous air charge was set to 50 psi and the system was working normally, and you've now put in a little more than 50 psi,
and if you did this deed when the water tank was full or close to full (the pump has pumped
up to its shutoff point) you've increased the volume of the air above the water-bladder and therefore
decreased the volume of water that will be in the tank on future run cycles.
This reduced water volume in the tank will shorten the pump on-cycle and depending on how much air you put in, it could give a
very short pump-on cycle or cause pump "short cycling".
Overcharging when water tank is empty: If you pumped just over 50 psi into the air portion of the
tank above the water bladder when the pump was
turned off and the water tank was empty it will be like having no water/pressure tank on the system at all.
When you open a faucet the pressure in the system immediately drops to close to zero, the pump comes on immediately, and because
water is not very compressible, the pump cuts off almost immediately, unless you are running lots of water so fast out
of the piping that the pump can't catch up to its cutoff point. In that case the pump will run continuously until
you turn off the water, then the pump will shut off right away.
Overcharging can damage a water tank - safety warning: overcharging can damage or even break the bladder in a captive air type water tank,
converting it
to a (short-lived, poor performing) more traditional bladder-less system. The water bladder might also be damaged if
water pump pressure is set too high though both of these don't seem highly likely. But watch out! overcharging
a water tank with very high air pressure is very
dangerous and could cause a water tank to burst, causing severe injury. Don't rely on the presence of the relief valve.
Effects of ambient air temperature on water tank and pump control operation are not normally any concern whatsoever, but
in the off chance that your water tank is installed in an unusually hot or cold location, you'll want to review
The mathematics to calculate exactly how much difference a given air pressure or air volume change makes inside a
water tank is presented in our companion article
Water Tank Pressure Calculations
Adding air when previous charge was too small: If the previous air charge in the water tank above the water-bladder was too small
in volume and the pump was short cycling, adding more air to the water tank would increase the draw-down time or water volume taken out of the system
before the pump has to come back on. This would reduce rather than increase pump short cycling.
How to correct an improperly-charged water tank: If your water tank has been
overcharged and is a bladder type you'll probably have to turn off the pump, let all the water out of the tank, and then reset
the air charge to the factory-specified pressure for your pump system - probably a little under 20 psi for a 20-40 water pump
system or a little under 30 psi for a 30-50 water pump control system. The procedures for properly charging a water
tank with air are discussed in complete detail at
HOW TO ADD AIR.
A defective or ruptured captive-air water tank bladder: it sounded so weird we didn't believe it at first, but one reader explained
that the water-containing bladder in their WellXTrol™ type water tank had collapsed and become stuck on itself.
The effect of a water tank air bladder that has collapsed and adhered to itself was that the
water pressure tank would accept only a very small volume of water before the stuck-up bladder would reach the pump shut-off pressure.
The bladder was replaced and things got back to normal.
If your water pressure tank has a ruptured or torn or leaky bladder that can cause short cycling of the water pump. You might "get by" temporarily by forcing air into the water tank - sometimes this works until you can get a new bladder installed or until you install a new water tank entirely.
But sometimes adding air to the water tank with a torn or ruptured bladder won't work - that suggests that the bladder has become adhered to itself inside the water tank.
An air leak at a rust-perforated, leaking water tank can lose the air charge in the water tank along with the leaking water.
See
Older steel Tanks for photos and text describing how this happens and how you might spot an intermittent air leak
from a faulty water storage tank.
A water leak somewhere else in the system, causing tank pressure to drop too rapidly regardless of actual
water use. An example might be a hidden plumbing leak in the building, or a leak in the water line
between the well and building, or a leak in the piping within the well itself. If the system has this defect
you'll hear the pump coming on and off periodically even when (as far as you know) no plumbing fixture
is running in the building. If the leak is severe, the pump may run continuously or nearly so.
Before digging up well lines one should check for a running toilet - the most common
leak which is missed in buildings.
In humid climates a running toilet can often be spotted by the constant presence of condensation on the outside
of the toilet tank.
Since some running toilets can be hard to spot, we use septic dye, or sometimes just food coloring, in the toilet water tank
to prove that the tank is leaking into the bowl below.
Well piping foot valve leaks: in some cases a defective foot valve in the well can cause water to drain back out of
the building system into the well, dropping pressure in the water tank and causing the pump to run mysteriously.
The "foot valve" is an anti-siphon device intended to hold water in the pipe that rises up inside the well after the
pump has shut off. If the foot valve is damaged you'll need a plumber to pull the well line and replace the valve.
The foot valve itself is an inexpensive part but pulling the well line can be costly. On the author's well the foot valve lasts typically
about 20 years.
Ask your plumber, as this expert may know other causes and remedies that I've not thought of.
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Thanks to reader Jeff Crosby for discussing well pump pressure switch diagnosis and repair 12/02/2008
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