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Causes of water pump short cycling on and off: this article explains the most common causes of well pump short cycling - what causes the well pump to run too often or to turn on and off too rapidly.

Short cycling of a water pump which is defined at SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP means that the water pump or "well pump" turns on and off too rapidly or too frequently when water is being run in the building. If this is the problem with your water pump, SHORT CYCLING CAUSES describes the most common causes of this problem. We also provide a complete SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE that lists all possible causes of well pump rapid cycling on and off. If you are not sure what "water pump short cycling" means or how it is recognized, read SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP.

Intermittent water pump cycling which is discussed at Intermittent Water Pump Cycling When No Water is Running means that the water pump comes on for no apparent reason.

Loss of water pressure means that the pressure with which water enters a plumbing fixture has become too slow, or is sometimes too slow or weak in water flow rate, or water flow may stop entirely. See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

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COMMON CAUSES OF WELL PUMP SHORT CYCLING - What usually causes short cycling of a water pump?

The most-common cause of pump short-cycling is loss of air in the water pressure tank. This is the topic discussed at length below, and corrective steps are detailed. However there could be other, less common plumbing problems that cause this symptom. Before "fixing" a problem it's useful to identify the correct problem, less we waste time, effort, and money.

A quick list of most likely water pump short cycle causes include the following, listed more or less in the order of probability:

  SHORT CYCLING CAUSES
    Loss of Air Charge in the Water Tank
    Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Problems
    Blocked Water supply Piping
    Clogged Water Filter
    Overcharged Air in Water Tank
    Damaged Water Tank Bladder
    Water Tank Leaks
    Well Water Piping / Check Valve/Foot Valve
    Other Causes of Water Pump Cycling

Our complete diagnostic list of all known causes, diagnostic steps, and repair procedures for well pump short cycling is at SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE

CONTACT us by email to suggest additions or corrections to these causes of well pump cycling on and off, or to let us know if the articles are not clear.

Loss of Air Charge in the Water Tank as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

Loss of sufficient air charge in the water tank is perhaps the most common cause of water pump short cycling, and is a particularly common problem with older non-bladder type water pressure tanks or with newer bladder type water tanks if the bladder has become damaged.

The remedy for a water tank that has lost its air charge is pretty easy and is discussed in great detail below at

• WATER TANK AIR LOSS SIGNS - how to figure out if your water tank has lost its air charge
• WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD - how to restore lost air in the water tank, starting

Here is our full list of diagnostic and repair articles for water pressure tanks

WATER TANK: USES, TROUBLESHOOTING
WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD
  WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROLS
  WATER TANK AIR ADD AT AIR VALVE
  WATER TANK AIR ADD BY DRAINING
  WATER TANK AIR HOW MUCH TO ADD
  WATER TANK AIR HOW OFTEN TO ADD
WATER TANK AIR INLET VALVE
WATER TANK AIR LOSS SIGNS
WATER TANK AIR VALVE REPAIRS
WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROLS
WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR
  How Water Pressure Tanks Work
  Bladder Type Captive Air vs. Bladderless Water Tanks
  Bladder type Water Tank Failures
  Repair for Burst Tank Bladder
  WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
WATER TANK CAPTIVE AIR vs TRADITIONAL WellMate

Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Problems as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

A defective water pressure control switch. Switch contacts can burn-up, or the opening into the switch which senses the water pressure in the system can become clogged with sediment or debris. This usually shows up as failure of the pump switch to turn on or off at all, rather than short cycling. But the switch could be damaged or improperly adjusted, causing "short water pump cycling." Technical note: Clogging of the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch if your water has a high level of silt, debris, or minerals, it's possible that the tubing or piping connecting the pump pressure switch to the pump or water piping, or the pump switch bottom orifice through which the pressure switch senses the water pressure in the system has become clogged. The small diameter of this tubing and still smaller diameter of the pump switch orifice makes clogging easy if your well water is high in sediment or minerals. A clogged water pump pressure control switch will often fail to turn on the well pump at all, even though the pressure in the system has dropped below the water pump "cut in" pressure. Reader Jeff Crosby reported an example of this pressure switch clog problem: [When our well pump kept short cycling and I was unable to get the well pump pressure control switch to work properly, ...] I ended up calling the pump service company to come over. There was an extreme amount of mineral buildup inside the pump where the copper tubing initially comes out to travel to the pressure switch. I thought about checking that out but did not know how funny. There has always been an awl sitting on the pump base for the longest time. One of their maintenance guys left it there long ago. Now I know why - ever since that date when they come do their yearly check up they knock out this sediment [using the awl to open the tubing so that the pressure switch can accurately sense the water pressure in the system]. -- Jeff Crosby On rare occasions we can tap on the well pump control switch and it will begin working again, but not for long, and not reliably. Another water pressure control switch failure is the rupture of a rubber disk or "bladder" inside the switch itself. If you detect or suspect a defective pressure control switch, try replacing it with a new one. We see a similar problem affecting water pressure gauges on private water systems: debris or mineral deposits can clog the pressure sensing orifice on the water pressure gauge, causing it to fail to respond at all, or to respond inaccurately to changes in water pressure. When we find a clogged water pump pressure switch or the tubing connected to it, or a clogged water pressure gauge, we replace those items. A well pump pressure gauge that does not respond to pressure changes is potentially unsafe as it could lead to excessive pressurization of the water tank and building piping.

Blocked Water supply Piping as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

A blockage in the water supply piping. For example, a clogged or nearly-clogged water filter can cause the pump control to cycle on and off rapidly. This is because the blockage causes water pressure (between the pump and the filter) to rise very rapidly when the pump turns on. The author once replaced a pump control switch only to discover that the real problem was a clogged filter, so check this item if you have filter(s) installed on the system.

Clogged Water Filter as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

A clogged water filter can block water flow between a pump and water tank or between a water tank and the rest of the building. Try changing the water filter by installing a new cartridge; temporary diagnosis can be made by simply removing a suspect water filter cartridge from its canister entirely. I've also seen a clogged water filter cause water pump short cycling, with a rapid "on-off" pump cycle (which is bad for the pump and pump relay switch.) Tips for diagnosing water filters as a cause of well pump short cycling: If your water filter has a bypass valve, try opening that valve to see if the short cycling stops. If there is no bypass valve for your water filter, turn off the pump and valves around the water filter, then remove the water filter cartridge and reassemble the unit. If the short cycling problem stops you probably had a clogged water filter. Replace the water filter cartridge. Technical note: the same clay, silt, or other debris that clogs a water filter can clog up the pressure sensing opening in the bottom of a pump pressure control switch, as we discussed just above. So if you are looking for a clogged filter, if changing the water filter does not correct a problem with the water pump cycling operation, also consider a possibly-clogged pump pressure switch.

Overcharged Air in Water Pressure Tank as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

Too much air in the water pressure tank - overcharging: If a well pump pressure control switch is set to cut on at 30 psi and off at 50 psi, at the cutoff point the water tank is empty (a bladder type captive air tank) or nearly empty (a traditional water tank) of water, and the air pressure in the tank is about at 30 psi.

The well pump comes on and re pressurizes the tank with incoming water, until the tank pressure of both air and water increases to the pump cut-off point of 50 psi. If someone puts too much air in a conventional water tank (overcharging) the excess air usually simply blows out of a nearby faucet the next time the water is run, and the system will correct itself. But if someone overcharges a captive air water tank the excess air can't escape.

1. Overcharging when water tank is full: If the previous air charge was set to 50 psi and the system was working normally, and you've now put in a little more than 50 psi, and if you did this deed when the water tank was full or close to full (the pump has pumped up to its shutoff point) you've increased the volume of the air above the water-bladder and therefore decreased the volume of water that will be in the tank on future run cycles. This reduced water volume in the tank will shorten the pump on-cycle and depending on how much air you put in, it could give a very short pump-on cycle or cause pump "short cycling".
2. Overcharging when water tank is empty: If you pumped just over 50 psi into the air portion of the tank above the water bladder when the pump was turned off and the water tank was empty it will be like having no water/pressure tank on the system at all. When you open a faucet the pressure in the system immediately drops to close to zero, the pump comes on immediately, and because water is not very compressible, the pump cuts off almost immediately, unless you are running lots of water so fast out of the piping that the pump can't catch up to its cutoff point. In that case the pump will run continuously until you turn off the water, then the pump will shut off right away.
3. Overcharging can damage a water tank - safety warning: overcharging can damage or even break the bladder in a captive air type water tank, converting it to a (short-lived, poor performing) more traditional bladder-less system. The water bladder might also be damaged if water pump pressure is set too high though both of these don't seem highly likely. But watch out! overcharging a water tank with very high air pressure is very dangerous and could cause a water tank to burst, causing severe injury. Don't rely on the presence of the relief valve.
4. Effects of ambient air temperature on water tank and pump control operation are not normally any concern whatsoever, but in the off chance that your water tank is installed in an unusually hot or cold location, you'll want to review The mathematics to calculate exactly how much difference a given air pressure or air volume change makes inside a water tank is presented in our companion article Water Tank Pressure Calculations
5. Adding air when previous charge was too small: If the previous air charge in the water tank above the water-bladder was too small in volume and the pump was short cycling, adding more air to the water tank would increase the draw-down time or water volume taken out of the system before the pump has to come back on. This would reduce rather than increase pump short cycling.
6. How to correct an improperly-charged water tank: If your water tank has been overcharged and is a bladder type you'll probably have to turn off the pump, let all the water out of the tank, and then reset the air charge to the factory-specified pressure for your pump system - probably a little under 20 psi for a 20-40 water pump system or a little under 30 psi for a 30-50 water pump control system. The procedures for properly charging a water tank with air are discussed in complete detail at HOW TO ADD AIR.

Damaged Water Tank Bladder as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

• A defective or ruptured captive-air water tank bladder: it sounded so weird we didn't believe it at first, but one reader explained that the water-containing bladder in their WellXTrol™ type water tank had collapsed and become stuck on itself.

• The effect of a water tank air bladder that has collapsed and adhered to itself was that the water pressure tank would accept only a very small volume of water before the stuck-up bladder would reach the pump shut-off pressure. The bladder was replaced and things got back to normal.
• If your water pressure tank has a ruptured or torn or leaky bladder that can cause short cycling of the water pump. You might "get by" temporarily by forcing air into the water tank - sometimes this works until you can get a new bladder installed or until you install a new water tank entirely.
• But sometimes adding air to the water tank with a torn or ruptured bladder won't work - that suggests that the bladder has become adhered to itself inside the water tank.

Water Tank Leaks as a Cause of Well Pump Short Cycling

An air leak at a rust-perforated, leaking water tank can lose the air charge in the water tank along with the leaking water. See Older steel Tanks for photos and text describing how this happens and how you might spot an intermittent air leak from a faulty water storage tank.

• A water leak somewhere else in the system, causing tank pressure to drop too rapidly regardless of actual water use. An example might be a hidden plumbing leak in the building, or a leak in the water line between the well and building, or a leak in the piping within the well itself. If the system has this defect you'll hear the pump coming on and off periodically even when (as far as you know) no plumbing fixture is running in the building. If the leak is severe, the pump may run continuously or nearly so. See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
• Before digging up well lines one should check for a running toilet - the most common leak which is missed in buildings. In humid climates a running toilet can often be spotted by the constant presence of condensation on the outside of the toilet tank. Since some running toilets can be hard to spot, we use septic dye, or sometimes just food coloring, in the toilet water tank to prove that the tank is leaking into the bowl below.
• Well piping foot valve leaks: in some cases a defective foot valve in the well can cause water to drain back out of the building system into the well, dropping pressure in the water tank and causing the pump to run mysteriously. The "foot valve" is an anti-siphon device intended to hold water in the pipe that rises up inside the well after the pump has shut off. If the foot valve is damaged you'll need a plumber to pull the well line and replace the valve. The foot valve itself is an inexpensive part but pulling the well line can be costly. On the author's well the foot valve lasts typically about 20 years. See also WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
• Water pressure tank located too far from the pressure control switch: if you place the water pressure tank too far from the pump pressure switch, or at a different elevation from the pressure switch, the pressure switch control may not operate properly. Here is what Amtrol™ says about tank location:

  The Well-X-Trol should be installed as close as possible to the pressure switch. This will reduce the adverse effects of added friction loss and pressure switch bouncing, and the difference in elevation between WELL-X-TROL and switch.

  Really most pressure tanks will work if placed almost anywhere. But if you have a problem such as pressure switch bouncing (the switch turning the pump on and off rapidly at the start or end of a pumping cycle) you can relocate the pressure switch to the new larger tank and run a longer wire to the pump or pump control relay. Other causes of pressure switch bounce and well pump short cycling are discussed in this same document.

Be sure to see our separate diagnostic guide Table to well pump short cycling in table form at SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE.

Well Water Piping or Check Valve/Foot Valve Leaks as a Cause of Water Pump Short Cycling On and Off

At CHECK VALVES and at AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES we describe two sorts of leaks in the well piping system that can let air (and contaminants) into the well piping:

• a leaky check valve (this includes a leaky or stuck foot valve in the well). See
    WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES
    WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES
• a leak or hole in the well piping that leaks air into the pipe when the pump stops and leaks water out of the well pipe when the pump is running. See
  WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
  
• See SHORT CYCLING CAUSE: WELL PIPE LEAKS for a case report and photos of steps taken to trace well pump short cycling to well piping leaks, where the leaks were located, how they were found, how the well piping leaks were repaired.

If there is a hole in the well piping anywhere between the bottom of the well and the water tank itself, water squirting out of this hole during every pump-on cycle tends to enlarge the hole over time. When the water loss at this leak is great enough, the well pump has to run longer to reach the pump control cut-off pressure, and at the same time, water running back out through this same hole drains pressure and water from the system, causing the pump to have to run more often.

If the leak in the well pipe is below the water level inside the well you will still have water and water pressure loss back through the leak when the pump stops, but you probably won't find air entering the well piping.

Watch out: If the well piping leak is severe enough the well pump may run continuously - a problem you'll notice quickly if the well pump is inside the building. But if the pump is an in-well submersible unit, it may be running continuously without anyone noticing it - until the pump fails.

Other Causes of Water Pump Frequent Cycling On and Off

Bad water pressure tank location: Locating the water pressure tank too far from or on a different level from the pressure control switch can cause pressure control switch bouncing and rapid water pump on-off cycling at the start or end of a water pump operating cycle. See Where to Locate the Replacement Water Pressure Tank

Ask your plumber, as this expert may know other causes and remedies that we have not identified here or at Well Pump Short Cycling Diagnosis Table. CONTACT us to add that helpful information for others.

Short cycling of a water pump (which is discussed in this article) means that the water pump turns on and off too rapidly or too frequently when water is being run in the building. If this is the problem with your water pump, see our description of the most common SHORT CYCLING CAUSES. We also provide a complete SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE that lists all possible causes of well pump rapid cycling on and off. If you are not sure what "water pump short cycling" means or how it is recognized, see SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP.

Intermittent water pump cycling which is discussed at Intermittent Water Pump Cycling When No Water is Running means that the water pump comes on for no apparent reason.

Loss of water pressure means that the pressure with which water enters a plumbing fixture has become too slow, or is sometimes too slow or weak in water flow rate, or water flow may stop entirely. See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

Readers of this document should also see Water pump and pressure tank repair diagnosis & cost an specific case which offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost.

Readers of this document should see WATER PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY, and also see WATER TANK LIFE EXPECTANCY and WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY, but before assuming that a water problem is due to the pump or well itself, see Water pump and pressure tank repair diagnosis & cost a specific case which offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about rapid on-off cycling of a well pump: what are the causes of water pump "short cycling" ?

Question: well pump is short cycling every 2-3 seconds and we are not finding air pressure in the bladder. I keep emptying air out and the problem remains.

Good morning, I have a rubber bladder tank, water is pumped from a deep water well. We seem to have a problem, the tank was fitted but kept having to be bled monthly as air was in the tank, last week we emptied the tank and found no air pressure in the bladder, so we pressured up the bladder, and now we find its recycling all the time every 2-3 secs when running a house tap. I emptied the air out of the bladder, but re-cycling fault is still there. Help please. I am not a plumber, and there is no decent plumber here in the Philippines!!!!! - John Nieurzyla

Reply: Figure out if we're talking about excess air or simply lost air charge in the water pressure tank

John,

Normally we want air in the water pressure tank to avoid well pump short cycling and we do not bleed that air out. And you are reporting well pump short cycling - which can be caused by loss of air charge in the water tank. So if that's what's going on with your system you should not be bleeding air out, you should be making sure that your pressure tank has the proper charge of air remaining in the tank. See WATER TANK AIR HOW MUCH TO ADD.

If you are sure that you're really seeing excess air entering the water pressure tank, then take a look at AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES. Excess air entering the bladder in a water pressure tank suggests that there is a leak in the well piping that is admitting air, or the water level in the well is abnormally low and the pump is sending up a mix of air and water.

Question: Rapid on and off cycling at the low-end of a 30/50 or 40/60 pressure switch setting; why cycling at the low-pressure end?

The article is good. I have a rapid on off cycling problem at the specific low setting of the pressure switch, 30 lb when I used a 30/50 and 40 when I replaced it with a 40/60.

Water pressure tanks, and pressure and filter between pump and tanks (have 2 pressure tanks) are checked and perfect. Have large reserve tank and will check foot valve and try to test for draw side air leaks, but that is buried and not easily remedied. why exactly at low pressure setting does it rapidly recycle? - Graham

Reply: check for a clogged water filter or closed valve or stuck tank bladder

Graham, I am GUESSING that the reason you are seeing the well pump short cycling around the low pressure setting value is simply that that's the cut-on point for the pump, AND that you've got a clog or blockage somewhere downstream from the output end of the water pump.

I've seen this problem when there was a clog or closed valve between the well pump and the water tank (such as valves around a water filter being shut off and then the water filter itself being shut off). If the pump can't push water into the pressure tank, as soon as the pump comes on it reaches the cutoff pressure and BANG it turns off the pump; at that point, anything that allows the pressure to bleed down even a little bit (say a valve that is shut but not totally shut) drops the pressure. Since the pump cut on at the cut-in pressure, say 30 psi, and immediately reached the cutout and stopped, it doesn't take much volume of water bleed down to quickly drop the pressure to below the pump cut-in pressure.

A similar problem can happen if the pressure switch is not able to properly sense water pressure due to clogging in the small diameter pressure switch mounting tube or within the switch itself. Even if you swapped out the switch, if the switch mount tube is clogged you could have this problem, so be sure to check or swap out that little tube or pipe too.

Question: The well pump was going on and off every 30-40 seconds

Thank you! your info has helped me try to figure out why my pump keeps coming on so often. the pressure in the house has never been to strong but not bad, a little stronger wouldn't hurt. my concern was my electric bill because of the pump going on and off like ever 30 to 40 seconds when im outside watering some flowers. now if i can change it to a longer period then i would. any advice would help. - zisa300@gmail.com

Reply: how to fix short cycling well pumps: diagnose cause, add water tank air if needed, adjust the pressure switch if needed

Thank you for the nice note Zisa300. We are dedicated to making our information as accurate, complete, useful, and unbiased as possible: we very much welcome critique, questions, or content suggestions for our web articles.

At SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP we explain why a well pump starts to turn on and off too frequently. A common cause is loss of the air charge in the pressure tank, but there can be other causes as we explain in that article.

Once you have made sure that your air charge in the water pressure tank is correct (see WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD) the frequent pump cycling problem will be reduced and should be eliminated if nothing else is wrong.

In a separate article WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH and articles listed there we discuss WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT - that may help.

Watch out: Just don't set the pump cut-off pressure so high that the pump cannot achieve it. Doing so would mean the pump would never shut off and you'd ultimately burn up the pump motor.

Question: well pump comes on every 1-2 minutes and goes off in less than 2 seconds

We have a captive air tank and a deep well submersible water pump in a shallow well (abt 25 feet). Over time the pump has been coming on more and more often even when no water seems to being drawn. It is now coming on every 1-2 minutes and going off in less than 2 seconds. I plan on replacing the tank but wonder but am afraid this might not solve the problem. Can you give me an educated guess as to what the problem might be. - Pat

Reply: waterlogged pressure tank may be the problem, but also check for water system leaks

Pat you are describing a short cycling well pump - the cause might be elsewhere but I'd start by looking into a lost air charge at the water pressure tank. Start at SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP or see WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD

But your question sounds to me as if there is probably just one cause (a waterlogged pressure tank) but there could be two problems:

The rapid shut-off of the pump can be caused by a blocked water filter or a water-logged pressure tank.

The fact that the pump comes on every 1-2 minutes, with a water-logged pressure tank would be "normal" IF water is being run somewhere in the building - say a filling toilet or a sink or tub faucet on.

But if you think that no water is being run in the building, then there is also a leak somewhere or a bad check valve or foot valve. Diagnosis of those problems begins at INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS.

Question: well pump turns on every 20 minutes or so even with no water running in the house and no visible leaks.

My pump turns on about every 20 minutes with no water running in the house and no visible leaks. also my brine tank which is usually 1/4 to half full is completely dry. i checked my water tank with an air gauge and it read 45psi and appears to be full of water. I changed my water softener to bypass and the pump has not turned on since doing so. any ideas? thank you. - Anon

Reply: intermittent well pump cycling causes & cures

Anon,

Intermittent cycling well pumps as you describe can be caused by a bad check valve or foot valve or a well piping leak.

Please see INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS for suggestions on how to track down and fix a pump running for no apparent reason.

The rest of your question sounds like a water softener issue. Perhaps the brine float is stuck?

Question: freezing pipes, no water delivery, pump is short cycling

Had a new pump installed 3 weeks ago. no water today. 2 below zero last night, might have frozen pipe from well head, so I put a 100 watt bulb next to it, and an hour later, water began to run (weakly) then pump started to short cycle. I cleaned the house filter, I have some water flowing, but none to upstairs bath, and pump is still short cycling.

In fear of burning out pump, I hit the breaker to turn it OFF. Is this the right thing to do, or do I risk freezing by not letting water run. I've called the well people 4 times today and have not heard, so I'd greatly appreciate any advice. Thank you - Barb

Reply: diagnose & cure freezing pipes before changing the pump pressure control switch setting

Barb:

Yes turning off a well pump that is rapidly short cycling or that won't turn off on its own is a way to protect the pump from overheating and damage, and to catch one's breath before launching into diagnosing the trouble.

Watch out: In an emergency, if the pump is delivering water OK but won't shut off, and while you're waiting for the plumber to arrive, in order to have some water in the building you can turn the pump on long enough to repressurize the water tank and then shut it back off again. But if the pump is running without any increase in water pressure you should leave it OFF.

Your comments indeed sound like a frozen water line because when you added heat you started to get water. Often if we can get any water flowing at all and if we can keep the pump running without damage, the flow of water through the piping will finish the thaw-out and recover the system. Of course if the piping and equipment are not protected from freezing the problem will recur.

When the pump wouldn't shut off it may be because it was unable to draw water from the well sufficient to reach the cut-off pressure at the pressure tank. You could set the cutoff pressure lower (WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT) but if the root cause is a water flow rate problem at the well or through frozen piping, adjusting the pump control switch may be barking up the wrong tree.

Question: My water pressure booster pump cycles on and off and won't build up pressure.

My boaster pump is on and off frequently,and it will not build up a pressure,this pump is pressure tank bladder type /pressure switch equipped with,it will work normal, but after 3 to 4 days it will come back to the problem again how can i fixed this type of trouble to our pumping system thanks. - Maximo Genese

Reply:

If your problem is a water pump not reaching cut-off pressure and it's intermittent, I suspect that the water source is intermittently low. If it were a damaged pump itself, I think its pressure troubles would be more constant.

Question: Water leak damaged the pump controls. Could a water leak cause well pump short cycling?

I have a summer place that has a outside community well, and I had a water leak last winter, which caused the controller on the well to go out, and the association is saying it was do to the problem that I had with my place causing the well to short cycle. I have talked to other well companies and my plumber, and they say my problem had nothing to do with this happening. What is your opinion - Ron

Reply: Short cycling is a separate problem from a water leak but here's how they might be related

Ron, in general, running water continuously would not damage the control switches for the equipment nor cause a well to short cycle. Short cycling of a well pump is caused by a loss of proper air charge in the pressure tank (or other problems as you can read in our articles here).

If the water pressure tank on your community system uses an internal bladder it should not run out of its air charge and that would be the end of this question.

If the water pressure tank on your system does NOT use an internal bladder and if the water was kept running for days or longer, it is conceivable that because of the volume of water that was run out of the system the air charge in the pressure tank was lost and the well pump then began short cycling, which could burn up points on a pressure control switch, for example.

But for the air charge to be lost in a bladderless tank we need a second defect: the air volume control device that should have been installed and should have been working to maintain the air charge in the pressure tank must also have been absent or broken.

If the air volume control device was absent or broken, it's not at all likely that that defect was caused by your running water - the chances of that multiple fault are just too small - it would have been a pre-existing condition.

Therefore the short cycling well pump may have indeed happened and burned up a control because your property had a water leak, but behind the damage was either a defective bladder-type water pressure tank or a defective or missing air volume control on a bladderless water pressure tank, or there was another problem that caused the loss of air charge in the water tank.

Question: Water flow stops when filling the clothes washer traced to sudden changes in water pressure

I recently replaced my old water pressure tank with a new Red Lion 20 gallon tank. Also replaced the 30-50 pressure switch.

My problem started with low pressure when the clothes washer was being filled (and the bath tub). The washer would fill normally (large load setting) to about a third capacity then the water flow would stop for about 20 seconds and come on again for another 20 seconds and stop again and repeat this process until the washer started its cycle.

So,I crawled under the house and noticed that the pressure guage would drop to nearly zero psi, then I could hear a gush of water flow to the tank where the pressure would rise to 30 psi and then quickly drop to zero again as the washer was filling up. For some reason, when the pressure drops below 30 psi, the pump will kick in but only increase pressure back up to 30 psi.

Shouldn't it be reaching the 50 psi cutoff point? The pressure switch is set for 30 - 50 and the air charge is 28 psi. I was told that my control box may be the problem?? Same issue was occurring when the bath tub was filled. The water would flow normally for a while, then stop altogether, then flow again, etc. Any suggestions? Water seems to work fine at the faucets although since I replaced the tank with a new one, the pressure is a little less than what it used to be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. - Kevin Andrews

Reply: Check the pump relays and switches

Kevin: it sounds as if your system uses a submersible pump (in the well) so you can't see nor hear it running; all you might hear is the pressure control switch clicking on and off and maybe, if your pump uses one, a separate pump relay.

If your system uses a separate heavy duty relay to run the water pump, the pressure control switch is serving as a light duty switch that in turn activates the heavy duty switch that powers the water pump on and off. When you replaced the pressure control switch you probably never touched the actual pump relay switch.

If the pump relay switch has dirty or burned contacts it might be sticking and causing the problem you describe.

Verify that you have a separate pump relay, turn off (and confirm off - SHOCK HAZARDS) all electrical power to the system, inspect the pump relay contacts for evidence of arcing or burning; the switch may need to be replaced though in an emergency sometimes we can carefully clean the relay contacts to keep going.

The other sort of problem that can cause intermittent pump operation is clogging in the pressure sensor of the pump pressure control switch or its mounting tubing.

Question: water pump continuously runs on and off when the water tap is turned on

How do you fix The pump from continuously running on & off when tap is on? - Brad

Reply: Short cycling well pump is not the same as a low-flow well and pump system

Brad depending on the water outflow rate at one or more plumbing fixtures it's normal for the well pump to cycle on and off. But if the cycling is rapid, say every few seconds, then the water tank has probably lost its air charge.

Take a look at the diagnostic discussion for well pump short cycling in the article above, and if it looks like a saturated water pressure tank (lost air charge) try recharging the air using one of the methods we describe.

On if the pump keeps running when you're running a single water tap, it may be that the pump (or perhaps pump and well) simply can't keep up with the water flow rate being used in the building. A well with a poor flow rate might be paired with a pump and controls that are set to never exceed the flow rate of water entering the well - that prevents pump burnup. See WELL FLOW RATE if you suspect this problem.

Question: How do I install a filter on the well water system?

How do I install a well water filter? Michael

Reply:

Michael: see WATER FILTERS to see details on water filter types and where they are installed on the system. It's usually pretty simple plumbing to install a filter near the point where water enters the building.

Watch out: a clogged water filter is a common cause of poor building water pressure and flow as well as well pump short cycling

Question: why does water come out of the air fitting at my water pressure tank?

What causes water to exit the air fitting when fitting is depressed? - Georgewilk

Reply: Water coming out of the air inlet valve may be normal or it may indicate a saturated water tank or a burst internal tank bladder

George,

If the air inlet/adjustment valve is located high on or near the top of a water pressure tank, under normal conditions air will be released if you press the pin in the center of that valve.

If an air valve in that location on a water pressure tank squirts water then the water pressure tank has become filled with all-water: it has lost its air charge. If it's a bladderless type tank the "fix" is to add air back into the tank. See WATER TANK AIR ADD AT AIR VALVE

If this is a water pressure tank with an internal bladder and you're seeing water at the air inlet valve, the bladder has probably burst. See WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR.

An air valve on a typical well and pump system is designed to allow air to be pumped into the water pressure tank when the air charge has become lost in a bladderless water tank. If this valve is located on a water pipe (typically near the pressure tank bottom but possibly even on the tank itself) and if that pipe is filled with water, not air, then pressing the pin in the valve center will send water squirting out. See WATER TANK AIR INLET VALVE for details.

Some air valves used on submersible well systems are actually a snifter valve that is designed to automatically allow air to enter the well piping at the end of a pump-on cycle. Working in concert with a vent or drain inside the well, this system attempts to maintain the air volume in the pressure tank automatically. These valves too will squirt water if the pin is depressed. See Snifter Valves for details.

Question: Air comes out of my water lines? How do I fix it?

How do I get the air out of my water lines? - Tony

Reply:

Tony, take a look at AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES for a guide to correcting air discharge at plumbing fixtures. Typically excess air in the water piping system will purge itself through fixtures but if you keep seeing air discharge at plumbing fixtures then there is a source of excess air in the water supply system - that will need to be tracked down and corrected.

Question: My water pump runs ok but won't come back on on its own.

My water pump is giving trouble, when its turn on and you are using the water everything is okay but it comes off it's not coming back on unless you turn off the switch and then put it back on. What is the cause off that? - Shane

Reply:

Shane if your water pump is not turning on when it should the pressure switch may not be working properly. A common cause is burned contacts or debris in the switch mounting pipe nipple or in the switch pressure sensor opening.

Question: My water pump runs, gets hot, won't turn off. Can I adjust it to stop when it should?

I have two Grundfos pumps, one for backup. I had to replace one last week, it stopped pumping, I tried to get it on. but nothing, so I installed the back up, primed it, but it wouldn't start right away. It took me about 6 times to finally get it going, but come to find out it stopped too. The pump was hot. I let it cooled down and tried it again, finally I got it going, but discovered, it wouldn't shut off. So I turned the main electric switch off, then I turned it back on, it would still continue to run.. Is there an adjustment to where I can adjust it to stop when it's suppose to? - Ernie

Reply: Check for lost prime and maybe a bad check valve or foot valve before re-setting the pump pressure switch

Ernie,

I can't be sure with so little information, but your question sounds as if your well system is losing prime. If the pump motor runs but doesn't deliver water, especially if it's a new pump, I suspect loss of prime. Under WELLS CISTERNS & SPRINGS you 'll find articles describing how to prime the pump WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE and under WATER PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES you'll find articles on bad check valves or foot valves that might explain the loss of prime. See   CHECK VALVES and see  FOOT VALVES, WELL PIPING

Questions & Answers regarding this article

Questions & answers about how to diagnose and repair short-cycling well pumps: what are the causes of well pump short cycling.

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WATER PRESSURE REPAIR GUIDE - WELLS
  PRESSURE GAUGES
  PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY
  PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
  PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR
  WATER PRESSURE REDUCER / REGULATOR
WATER PUMPS, TANKS, WELLS - BASICS
WATER PUMP CAPACITIES TYPES RATES GPM
WATER PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES
WATER PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY
WATER PUMP SAFETY
WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING

WATER TANK REPAIRS
  CONTROLS & SWITCHES on WATER TANKS
  INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS
  SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP
  SHORT CYCLING CAUSES
  SHORT CYCLING CAUSE: WELL PIPE LEAKS
    Loss of Air Charge in the Water Tank
    Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Problems
    Blocked Water supply Piping
    Clogged Water Filter
    Overcharged Air in Water Tank
    Damaged Water Tank Bladder
    Water Tank Leaks
    Well Water Piping / Check Valve/Foot Valve
    Other Causes of Water Pump Cycling
  SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE

WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD
  WATER TANK AIR LOSS SIGNS
  WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROLS
  WATER TANK AIR ADD AT AIR VALVE
  WATER TANK AIR ADD BY DRAINING
  WATER TANK AIR HOW MUCH TO ADD
  WATER TANK AIR HOW OFTEN TO ADD
WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR
WATER TANK REPLACEMENT
WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
WATER TANK PRESSURE CALCULATIONS
WATER TANK PRESSURE GAUGE
WATER TANK SIZE & VOLUME

• Carson, Dunlop & Associates Ltd., 120 Carlton Street Suite 407, Toronto ON M5A 4K2. (416) 964-9415 1-800-268-7070 info@carsondunlop.com. Thanks to Alan Carson and Bob Dunlop, for permission to use illustrations from their publication, The Illustrated Home which illustrates construction details and building components. Carson Dunlop provides home inspection education including the ASHI-adopted Home Inspection Training Program (home study course), publications such as the Home Reference Book, report writing materials including the Horizon report writer, and home inspect ion services. Alan Carson is a past president of ASHI, the American Society of Home Inspectors.
• Thanks to reader Wayne Ouellette for discussing water tank replacement needs May 2010
• Pumptrol® Pressure Switch Adjustment, Square D, Schneider Electric Corporation, 8001 Knightdale Blvd., Knightdale< NC 27545 1-888-778-2733 - Square D Technical Library, web search 07/24/2010 original source: http://ecatalog.squared.com/techlib/docdetail.cfm?oid=09008926800a93be
• 9013 Pumptrol® Commercial Pressure Switches Type F and 9013 Commercial Pressure Switches Type G, Catalog, SquareD, Schneider Electric Industries SAS, Schneider Electric Industries SAS, web search 02/23/2011, original source: http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Machine Control/
  Pressure-Float-Vacuum Switches/Pressure Switches-Water and Air/9013CT9701.pdf
  Square D is a brand of Schneider Electric.
• Class 9013 Square D Commercial Pressure Switches: Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Class 9013, Type F, G, Manual, Square D Company, 8001 Highway 64 East, Knightdale, NC 27545-9023, USA, (919) 266-3671, www.squared.com, web search 02/24/2011, original source: stevenengineering.com/tech_support/PDFs/45COM.pdf. Quoting:
  
  The Type FSG, FYG, FRG - PUMPTROL® Water Pump Pressure Switches are used to control Water Pump Pressure Switches are used to control
  electrically driven water pumps and have the following features:
  • The Type FSG is the standard water pump switch, suitable for all types of pumps: jets, submersible,
    reciprocating, etc.
  • The Type FYG is designed to meet higher horsepower and pressure requirements.
  • The Type FRG is reverse acting: the contacts open on falling pressure.
    All are diaphragm actuated.
    
  
  The Type G - PUMPTROL® Commercial/Light Industrial Pressure Switch is used to control electrically driven water pumps and air compressors. It has higher electrical ratings for direct control of motors in pump and compressor applications. The Type G switch is diaphragm actuated and has contacts that open on rising pressure.
  

Water Supply & Drain Piping, Wells, Pumps, Water Supply Equipment

• Access Water Energy, PO Box 2061, Moorabbin, VIC 3189, Australia, Tel: 1300 797 758, email: sales@accesswater.com.au Moorabbin Office: Kingston Trade Centre, 100 Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin, VIC 3189
  Australian supplier of: Greywater systems, Solar power to grid packages, Edwards solar systems, Vulcan compact solar systems, water & solar system pumps & controls, and a wide rage of above ground & under ground water storage tanks: concrete, steel, plastic, modular, and bladder storage tanks.
• Cheating on water tests: Testing Water for Real Estate Transactions - make sure your water test is valid
• Diagnosing Clogged Drains: Is it a blocked drain or the septic system? - A First Step for Homeowners
• Drinking Water Contaminant Levels - Maximum Allowed
• Drinking Water Supply, Contamination Levels, Water Testing Procedures
• Drinking Water Testing Advice for home buyers home owners home inspectors
• Interpreting Drinking Water Test Results and Correcting Unsatisfactory Water
• Lead Contamination in Drinking Water: Testing & Correction - Advice (This Article)
• Lead Testing & Correcting Contamination from Lead Water Supply Lines/Entry Mains - Lead Pipe Problems/Advice
• Life Expectancy of Water Pumps - Well Pumps: how long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?
• Life Expectancy of Wells & Water Tanks how long should a water well and its components last?
• Plumbing Diagnosis & Repair: Water supply, drainage, septic systems, water testing, water contamination, defective plumbing materials & products.
• Shock or Chlorinate a Well, How to - Procedure for Shocking a Well to (temporarily or maybe longer) "Correct" Bacterial Contamination
• Smart Tank, Installation Instructions [ copy on file as /water/Smart_Tank_Flexcon.pdf ] - , Flexcon Industries, 300 Pond St., Randolph MA 02368, www.flexconind.com, Tel: 800-527-0030 - web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/st_install.pdf
• Typical Shallow Well One Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect_Jet_Pumps_1.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
• Typical Deep Well Two Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
• Water Fact Sheet #3, Using Low-Yielding Wells [ copy on file as /water/Low_Yield_Wells_Penn_State.pdf ] - , Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences, Cooperative Extension, School of Forest Resources, web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/XH0002.pdf
• Water pressure tanks - how to diagnose the need for air, how to add air, stop water pump short cycling to avoid damage - water storage water pressure tank safety.
• Water pump and pressure tank repair diagnosis & cost an specific case offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost
• Water pressure tank failures & water pump short cycling diagnosis and repair
• Water Supply & Drain Piping, water and drain pipe types, inspection, diagnosis, repairs, problem materials, clogging, etc.
• Water Tests & Fees this water test fee schedule applies when testing is combined with other onsite building inspection services
• Water Testing: background comments on classes of water contaminants, & links to home buyer advice about water testing, drinking water, water supply
• Water Requirements, Home & Outdoor Living

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

• Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 2010, $69.00 U.S., is available from Carson Dunlop, and from the InspectAPedia bookstore. The 2010 edition of the Home Reference Book is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. InspectAPedia.com ® author/editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.

• Crystal Clear Supply provides portable ceramic water filter purifiers and portable reverse osmosis water treatment equipment - see http://www.crystalclearsupply.com/category_s/7.htm
• Handbook of Disinfectants and Antiseptics, Joseph M. Ascenzi (Editor), CRC, 1995, ISBN-10: 0824795245 ISBN-13: 978-0824795245 "The evaluation of chemical germicides predates the golden age of microbiology..." -
  This well-focused, up-to-date reference details the current medical uses of antiseptics and disinfectants -- particularly in the control of hospital-acquired infections -- presenting methods for evaluating products to obtain regulatory approval and examining chemical, physical, and microbiological properties as well as the toxicology of the most widely used commercial chemicals.
• Potable Aqua® emergency drinking water germicidal tablets are produced by the Wisconsin Pharmacal Co., Jackson WI 53037. 800-558-6614 pharmacalway.com
• Principles and Practice of Disinfection, Preservation and Sterilization (Hardcover)
  by A. D. Russell (Editor), W. B. Hugo (Editor), G. A. J. Ayliffe (Editor), Blackwell Science, 2004. ISBN-10: 1405101997, ISBN-13: 978-1405101998.
  "This superb book is the best of its kind available and one that will undoubtedly be useful, if not essential, to workers in a variety of industries. Thirty-one distinguished specialists deal comprehensively with the subject matter indicated by the title ... The book is produced with care, is very readable with useful selected references at the end of each chapter and an excellent index. It is an essential source book for everyone interested in this field. For pharmacy undergraduates, it will complement the excellent text on pharmaceutical microbiology by two of the present editors."
  The Pharmaceutical Journal: "This is an excellent book. It deals comprehensively and authoritatively with its subject with contributions from 31 distinguished specialists. There is a great deal to interest all those involved in hospital infection ... This book is exceptionally well laid out. There are well chosen references for each chapter and an excellent index. It is highly recommended." The Journal of Hospital Infection.: "The editors and authors must be congratulated for this excellent treatise on nonantibiotic antimicrobial measures in hospitals and industry ... The publication is highly recommended to hospital and research personnel, especially to clinical microbiologists, infection-control and environmental-safety specialists, pharmacists, and dieticians."
  New England Journal of Medicine: City Hospital, Birmingham, UK. Covers the many methods of the elimination or prevention of microbial growth. Provides an historical overview, descriptions of the types of antimicrobial agents, factors affecting efficacy, evaluation methods, and types of resistance. Features sterilization methods, and more. Previous edition: c1999. DNLM: Sterilization--methods.
• U.S. Army Field Manual 21-10, Field Hygiene and Sanitation, 1988, web search 07/02/2010, original source: http://www.enlisted.info/field-manuals/fm-21-10-field-hygiene-and-sanitation.shtml
  The purpose of this manual is to assist individual soldiers, unit commanders, leaders and field sanitation teams in preventing disease and environmental injuries. The manual provides information on preventive medicine measures (PMM) to the individual soldier as well as essential information for the unit commander, unit leaders, and the unit field sanitation team on applying unit level PMM.
• When Technology Fails, Matthew Stein, Chelsea Green Publisher, 2008,493 pages. ISBN-10: 1933392452 ISBN-13: 978-1933392455, "... how to find and sterilize water in the face of utility failure, as well as practical information for dealing with water-quality issues even when the public tap water is still flowing". Mr. Stein's website is www.whentechfails.com/
• ...