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This article describes how to adjust building water pressure by setting the water pump cut-in and cut-out pressure on the well water pump pressure control switch. We also point to our article on how to adjust building municipal or community water pressure at a building. If you don't see information you want, ask us for it using the comments box on this page.

We discuss diagnosing and repairing a water pressure control switch that sticks "on" or "off" or simply won't operate, at water pump Pressure Switch Repairs. At WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD we discuss adding the right amount of air to a non-bladder steel or glass-lined well tank. At WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT we discuss fine tuning the pump pressure control switch to work perfectly with the exact air pressure pre-charge in a bladder type well tank.

© Copyright 2012 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Information Accuracy & Bias Pledge is at below-left. Use page top links to major topics or use links at the left of each page to navigate within topics and documents at this website. Green links show where you are in a document series or at this website.

• How to Adjust Water Pump Pressure: The detailed, step by step procedure for inspecting and adjusting the water pressure control switch is discussed in detail at ADJUST PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL.
• Diagnosing Water Pump Short Cycling on and off: If your water pump is clicking on and off too often or quite rapidly see SHORT CYCLING.
• Diagnosing Water Pressure Drops without explanation when the pump stops, see Water Pressure Falls Slowly, Erratic Pumping: bad pressure control switch, building water running or leak, bad pressure gauge, bad check valve, bad foot valve.
• Diagnosing & Repairing Poor or Lost Water Pressure and Flow: we still have water flowing but pressure and flow quantity are reduced. See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
• Diagnosing & Repairing Lost Air in the Water Tank: The problem of lost air in the water pressure tank along with how to correct that condition are discussed beginning at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS. Also see WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD followed by WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR and WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
• Diagnosing & Repairing a Water Pressure Control or Water Pump Control Switch: We discuss diagnosing and repairing a water pressure control switch that sticks "on" or "off" or simply won't operate, at water pump Pressure Switch Repairs.
• How to boost water pressure in a building by installing a pressure booster pump and pressure tank is discussed in detail at WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP

ADJUST PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL - how to set the water pump pressure

How to Adjust the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch If the length of time that you can run water between pump turning on and off is short, say just a minute or less, the pump is short cycling - or your water pressure tank is a small one that doesn't give a big draw down cycle.

Here we are discussing setting the water pressures at which a water pump will turn on (to get more water) and off (to stop pumping water from the water source into the water tank). Water pumps use a pressure control that specifies the pump cut-in (turn on) and cut-out (turn off) water pressures. Don't confuse the water pressures we discuss here with the air pressures we discuss at WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD.

Watch out: SAFETY WARNING OF FATAL SHOCK HAZARD: if you remove the cover of the pump pressure control switch you can get access to the two nuts that adjust the operating pressures of the water pump. But watch out! There are also live electrical contacts exposed in this area. If you touch them, especially being near water piping, there is a serious risk of death by electrocution. Watch what you touch, or have a professional plumber or electrician do this job for you. More pump and tank safety warnings are below.

If the water pump apparent "short cycle" is say 1-3 minutes this may be all your system can provide. If however something has changed, and the pump used to run longer, say 2-5 minutes, I suspect loss of air in the pressure tank or an internal problem in the tank (like a hole in the bladder if it's a "captive air" pressure tank). The problem of lost air in the water pressure tank along with how to correct that condition are discussed beginning at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS.

If the "short cycle" is very short, clicking on and off, there could be a different problem with the pump control pressure switch or with a dirty, clogged water filter if one is installed on the system. Dirty water filters as a source of rapid pump on-off cycling are discussed at CAUSES OF SHORT CYCLING.

If you want to set up the cut-out pressure on your pump control, while leaving the "cut-in" down where it is, you'll also get a longer "off" cycle, but if you set the cut-out pressure too high, the pump will just run forever since it can't reach that high pressure. This is easy to figure out since if you set it too high the pump will just keep running. (Then turn it off electrically and set the cutout pressure a bit lower.)

In sum, it might be possible to improve this condition by adjusting the pump control which sets the cut-in water pressure (to start the water pump) and the cut-out water pressure (to stop the pump).

Usually this isn't going to help with pump short cycling but adjusting the water pump can give a longer on-cycle for the pump and it can increase the water system pressure up to a point.

If you ask the pump for more pressure than it can deliver it will simply keep running without ever reaching the cut-out pressure you've specified. If your pump short-cycling behavior has recently gotten worse, don't try to fix it by adjusting the pump pressures, go on to look at other problems like loss of the air charge in the water tank or a defective or clogged pump control or water filter.

Which nut adjusts water pump cut on or cut off?

The larger nut on the larger spring in the pump pressure switch: changes cut-in AND cut-out simultaneously moving them both up (higher pressure) or down (lower pressure). It has the practical effect of raising or lowering the operating pressure range of the switch.

Usually the larger nut in the pump pressure control switch (green arrow in our photo at left) adjusts the pump cut-on ("cut-in") AND pump cut-off pressures simultaneously. This is the left-hand spring (and nut) in our photo and is pointed-to by the green arrow.

That means that whatever the gap is between the cut-on pressure and the cut-off pressure, that gap is maintained, but the entire operating range of the pump is raised or lowered. Turning the large nut clockwise RAISES BOTH the cut-on and cut-off pressures. So turning the large nut clockwise shifts the whole operating pressure range of the pump UP to HIGHER pressures.

Conversely, turning the large nut counter-clockwise will lower the whole pump operating range. This is the simplest adjustment to make.

Photo (left) courtesy of a reader.

The smaller nut atop the smaller spring in the pump pressure switch: changes the differential between cut-in and cut-out pressure. It has the practical effect of raising or lowering the cut OFF pressure only.

This nut is used to narrow or widen the gap between the pump cut-on and pump cut-off pressures. This is the right-hand spring (and nut) in our photo - pointed to by the red arrow.

Turning the small nut clockwise (tighter) will RAISE the CUT-OFF pressure, and vice versa, loosening or turning the nut counter-clockwise will lower the cut-off pressure. Watch out! If you loosen this nut too much you can set the cut-off pressure below the cut-on pressure and the pump will turn on and run forever (or until it burns up.)

Which nut to turn in the pump pressure switch control, and which direction to turn it, are usually visible on a label inside the pressure switch cover. Above we show photos of a common Square D water pump pressure control switch (Schneider Electric) and the label with pump control adjustment details. [Click to enlarge].

Here are Example Pump Pressure Switch Adjustment Instructions from Square -D

Understanding how pump pressure control switches work and which way to turn which of the two nuts in the control can be confusing.

On a Square-D Pumptrol® 9013FSF-2 pump pressure switch, for example, Square D tells us that we

• Turn the Range Nut #1 (green arrow at left, the larger spring and nut) clockwise (to the right or "down") to raise [both] cut-on and cut-off pressures. This is "tightening the nut down" against the spring. ("Rightie-tightie, leftie-loosie" as Mara Gieseke says to her kids). Thanks to reader Rise for this clarification.
  
  In other words, adjusting the pressure on this spring shifts the whole operating range of the switch up or down, but keeps the difference between cut-in and cut-out the same, whatever it happens to be (typically it's about 20 psi from the factory.)
  
  If you want the pump to turn ON (cut-in) sooner, that is, at a higher water pressure, turn the nut clockwise or "tighter".
  
  If you want the water pump to turn ON (cut-in) later, that is, at a lower water pressure, turn the nut counterclockwise or "looser".
  
  
• Turn the Differential Nut #2 (red arrow at above left, the smaller spring and nut) clockwise to raise the cut-out pressure.
  
  If you want the water pump to turn OFF (cut out or cut-off) at a higher water pressure, turn this nut clockwise or "tighter".
  
  If you want the water pump to turn OFF (cut out or cut-off) at a lower water pressure, turn this nut counter clockwise or "looser"
  
  Here is why the small nut is called the "Differential"
  
  Adjusting the pressure on this spring shifts just the pump cut-out pressure up (clockwise) or down (counter-clockwise). But as readers Don Travis has pointed out, it's a bit more complicated than this.
  
  On at least some pressure control switch models, the small nut on the pressure control switch increases (turn down or tighten) or decreases (turn up or loosen) the differential between the cut-off and cut-on points on the switch.
  
  In other words, If you leave the large nut alone and change the smaller one, you increase the gap between pump cut-in and pump cut-out pressures. A larger gap between cut-in (cut on pressure) and cut-out (cut off pressure) means you will run water longer in the building before the water pump is turned on.
  

Watch out: After adjusting nut#2 you may need to check the actual operating water pressures in your system and adjust nut#1 to be sure that you are not pushing the cut-out (upper pressure) so high that the water pump never turns off (dangerous).

Especially if the well pump is a submersible (hidden and silent down inside the actual well) you may not realize that the pump motor is not shutting off. This can burst a pipe, burst a water tank, cause in-building leaks (especially at pressures over 70 psi), or burn up the well pump. You may be best to leave this adjustment screw alone.

In sum, the "Range" nut shifts the whole operating range of the pressure control up or down, but keeps the gap between cut-in and cut-out the same. The "Differential" nut widens or narrows the gap between the cut-in and cut-out pressures. But messing with the gap also shifts the operating pressure of the control so you may have to re-visit the range - or leave this nut alone.

Pump Pressure Control Switch Safety Warnings from the Manufacturer

Square D also has these safety warnings printed on a label attached to new switches. We have expanded the text a bit for clarity:

• Hazardous Voltage: disconnect electrical power before removing the pump control switch cover
• Excessive Pressure: the switch is rated to handle up to 220 psi .

Watch out: But we add that this kind of pressure could certainly explode some water tanks so be sure not to set the pump to a pressure that is higher than what your water tank or piping are intended to withstand.We know of a fatality that happened from just that problem. Absent any other guidance I would not set the water pressure in a building over 70 psi. And we would be sure that a pressure relief valve has been installed on the water tank.

Watch out: more subtle than the dangers than the overpressure dangers we describe above, if you increase the pump-out rate on a water well that has a marginal flow rate (the rate that water flows into the well), you may pump the well dry, losing pump prime, losing all water pressure, or in the case of running the pump "dry", damaging the pump.

For these reasons it's best to not over-do the cut-out pressure. From a cut out of 40 to even an experimental cut out of 50 psi is ok if you monitor for signs of trouble. But setting the cut-out from 40 psi all the way up to 70 psi is asking for trouble.

What are the Usual Water Pump and Tank Pressure Control Settings in PSI?

Most residential water systems using a water pressure tank and water pump use one of these two pressure operating ranges:

Low-pressure operating range pumps like low horsepower pumps and many jet pumps

• Cut in (start pumping) - 20 psi
• Cut out (stop pumping) - 40 psi

Higher-pressure water pumps, like submersible pumps, and higher horsepower 2-line jet pumps

• Cut in (start pumping) - 30 psi
• Cut out (stop pumping) - 50 psi

How High Can we Set the Water Pressure in My Building?

You can't just set the pump pressure as high as you want to. Here's what can go wrong with excessive pump pressure control settings:

• Exceeding well pump pressure capability: If you set the cut out (stop pumping) pressure higher than the water pump is capable of reaching, the pump will just keep running indefinitely until it burns up or blows a fuse or trips a circuit breaker or overheats.
• Causing a ruptured water tank internal bladder: we have had a number of reports of ruptured bladders in water tanks. In normal use the bladder in most water tanks is not stressed at all - the internal water tank bladder simply moves up and down as water enters or leaves the tank - pressure on either side of the bladder (air on one side, water on the other side) remains the same.
  
  If your water tank were a less common model in which air were inside the bladder rather than outside it, excessive air pressure could burst the bladder. If you set the water pump pressure too high on one of these systems, you might cause the water bladder to rupture inside the tank. In an extreme case you might blow up the water tank itself. Most water tanks are not designed this way.
• Blowing up a water pressure tank - serious safety hazard: if you set water pressure too high, even if the pump is capable of reaching that pressure it may be unsafe. Most water pressure tanks are designed to operate safely in the water pressure ranges we cited above. If you had the bad luck (and stupidity) as to be using a water tank that has no pressure relief valve installed, it is possible to cause the tank to rupture or even explode, risking damage to the building or even serious injury or fatality if anyone is nearby.
• Causing leaks at fixtures: even if your water tank were rated for high pressure, and even if your water pump is capable of high water pressure, if you run water pressure in a building over 70 or 80 psi you can expect to have recurrent leaks at plumbing fixtures: most water faucets and tub faucets are not designed for high pressure use.
• Also see HOW MUCH AIR TO ADD - How Much Air is needed in the water pressure tank?

WATER PUMP & WATER TANK SAFETY - Water pump and water pressure tank or water storage tank safety advice

While you're on the topic of water pumps, tanks, and controls, here are some safety tips about water pressure tank relief valves and electrical safety around this equipment. Be sure to see our full article on water pump and water tank safety, located at WATER PUMP SAFETY .

Frequently-Asked Questions (FAQs) about Setting the Water Pump Pressure Switch and Improving Water Pressure

Question: How can I increase the well pump cut-in pressure without setting the cut-out pressure too high?

We have a well and have been experiencing intermittent low water pressure. I checked the pump and it cuts in at 25 PSI and cuts off at 65 PSI. But the diagram on the inside of the pump switch cover indicates that it should be cutting in at 40 PSI and out at 60 PSI. It has a maximum PSI of 80. How do I get the well pump to cut in at 40 PSI instead of 25 PSI? I believe this would give us adequate water pressure at all times. According to the information on your website adjusting the mainspring will change both the cut in and cut off pressures and adjusting the differential will adjust only the cut off pressure. Apparently, there is no way to adjust only the cut in pressure? Thanks for your help. - L.W.

Reply: Here is how to change the cut-in pressure without pushing the cut-out pressure too high

A competent onsite inspection by an expert usually finds additional clues that help accurately diagnose a water pressure or pump problem.

And your cause of inadequate water pressure might be due to more than just the static pressure capability of the pump. For example, the pump's maximum flow rate in gpm could be inadequate, or you could have a partly closed water valve or clogged water pipe. Put another way, many homes that operate between 30 and 50 psi have very good water pressure and flow rate at the fixtures. So if you don't there may be another problem besides the pressure switch settings.

That said, here are some things to consider:

Most pump pressure controls are tricky to adjust in the way you mentioned, but you should be able to set the cut-in to a higher number and then adjust the cut-in - cut-out pressure differential to keep the cut-out pressure from being too high. That will cause your well pump to turn sooner when you start running water (and will cycle it more often, a factor in pump wear).

Above at PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT we explain that the smaller nut on the pump control switch adjusts the differential or gap between cut in and cut out and the larger nut raises the cut-in pressure (as well as cut off).

In other words you can set the cut in pressure higher and then narrow the differential so that the cut-off pressure is not dangerously high or above what the pump can reach.

Watch out: don't run the water pressure control with too narrow a differential between the cut-in and cut-out or the pump may just sit there short-cycling until you burn up the motor. If your pump is staying on for less than 30 seconds (I prefer longer), you may be heading for trouble.

Watch out: setting the cut-out water pressure too high can cause the pump to never turn off or at high pressures you may find leaks at fixtures. And high water pressure that exceeds the rated water tank pressure can burst the tank - a very dangerous event. Also make sure your pressure tank has a relief valve installed.

Don't Forget to Check For Other Causes of Bad Water Pressure

Finally, I suspect that after you have increased the pump cut-in or cut-on pressure to a higher number, say 30 psi, if you will find that this does not fix your water pressure problem.

The fact that your low water pressure is intermittent might in fact point to a problem with the well flow rate itself. (Well Yield: Well Flow Rate)

Once the well pump turns on and presuming you are running water continuously, especially if more than one fixture is running, you may see that your pump runs continuously until you turn the water off. If this is the case, it's not the starting water pressure setting that is at fault, it's the pump or piping or well that is limiting the water flow rate.

If I'm right that means that the water flow rate through the system, from well through pump and pipes, elbows, valves, etc. is just not enough, and further diagnosis is in order.

Our photo of copper supply piping (above left) was sent by reader Tom.C. who was tracking down a clog in the supply piping that meant poor water pressure from the point of the fitting you see above onwards through the plumbing fixtures served by that pipe.

Follow-up and Water Pressure Problem Solved:

Looks like I will call a plumber.  I adjusted the mainspring to raise the cut-in/cut-out range but there was no change.

The water pump switch was faulty and had to be replaced.  Also the line going into the water tank was clogged and had to be rodded out.  Working fine now.

The homeowner attempted to adjust the pressure control switch for the water pump. When he turned the adjusting nut the water pump behavior and water pressure did not change. That observation led to calling a plumber who replaced the pressure control switch - which solved the water pressure problem.

Question: My water pump makes horrible noise when pressure drops - what's wrong?

My pump pressure starts at 55 psi. I turn my irrigation on and the pressure starts to drop till about 30 psi. Then the well pump kicks in and the pressure starts to go up and a few minutes later it starts to go down until 10 psi. The pump is still running. When the pump kicks in, it sounds nice and smooth and when the pressure start to drop to 10 psi, it sounds pretty bad. But when I turn the irrigation off the pump sound goes from bad to good until pressure start to build up. Is the pump cavitating or one of my valve is going bad? - Phil.

Reply:

The horrible noise you describe is often caused by air cavitation in a water pump that has either lost its prime or is attempting to pull water from a well whose water supply has been exhausted.

At WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR and at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE we include a diagnosis of how to figure out what's the root cause of bad water pressure.

Question: Should I be using a 30-50 psi switch when running 38-64 psi cut-in/cut-out? Should I change the air pre-charge pressure in the water tank?

I have a 20 gal wellxtrol with a 30-50 psi squareD pumptrol switch with pressure reading that are unusual. The pressure switch needed replacing because contacts were sticking. I put in a new pressure gauge and measured before I replaced the switch: tank pressure 18 psi, cut in 42 psi, cut out 67 psi. The system seems to work fine. It's 25 years old.

I replaced the switch with the same, and adjusted it to 38 psi cut in, 64 psi cut out. Do I need to increase the tank pressure to 36 psi? Should I be using a 30-50 psi switch when running 38-64 psi cutin-cutout? - D. Hurry

Reply: The 30-50 psi pressure control switch is acceptable. Set the water pressure tank air pre-charge to 2 psi below the cut-in pressure

D Hurry:

First, if your present pressure control switch is handling your (somewhat high) setting of 38/64 psi cut-in/cut-out you don't need to change the switch itself. Square D's pressure control switches typically can handle pressures up to 220 psi - much higher than a typical residential water pressure tank setting will ever be.

In the article above we list the factory air pre-charge settings for models of Well-x-Trol water pressure tanks.

Please read the WARNINGS about messing with tank air pre-charge in the article above. Then you can set your pre-charge pressure (with all water drained out of the tank) to 2 psi below the cut-in pressure on your pressure switch, or as you suggested, for a 38 psi cut-in, you'd set the air charge to 36 psi.

That 4 psi difference, however, is not very significant. Leaving the tank at factory pressure and setting the pressure control switch to a higher cut-in/cut-out pressure means that the volume of water you can draw from the tank before the pump turns on is a bit reduced.

Details about how to adjust the water pressure control switch are at PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENT.

Questions & Answers regarding this article

Questions & Answers about Setting the Water Pump Pressure Switch and Improving Water Pressure.

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WATER PUMP CONTROLS & SWITCHES
  CHECK VALVES
  FLOW CONTROL VALVES
  FOOT VALVES, WELL PIPING
  RELIEF VALVES - Water Tanks
  MAIN WATER SHUTOFF VALVE
  WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES
    WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
    PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR
    PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
  WATER PUMP RELAY SWITCH
  CHECK VALVES
  WATER FILTERS
WATER PUMP PROBLEM DIAGNOSTIC TABLE

WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE
  AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
  CONTROLS & SWITCHES
  INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS
  WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP
  PUMP & TANK REPAIRS & COSTS
  SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP
  SHORT CYCLING CAUSES
  SHORT CYCLING CAUSE: WELL PIPE LEAKS
  SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE
  WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE BOOSTER
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
  WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE
  WATER PUMP RELAY SWITCH
  WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
  Water Tank & Pump Costs
  WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD
  WATER TANK PRESSURE GAUGE
WATER PUMP SAFETY
WATER PUMP SHORT CYCLING
WATER PUMP TYPES & LIFE EXPECTANCY
WATER PUMP SAFETY
WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
WATER SHUTOFF VALVE LOCATION, USE
WATER SHUTOFF VALVE, WELL PUMP

WATER TANK REPAIRS
  CONTROLS & SWITCHES on WATER TANKS
  INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS
WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD
WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR
WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
WATER TANK PRESSURE CALCULATIONS
WATER TANK PRESSURE GAUGE
WATER TANK SIZE & VOLUME
WATER TANKS HOW THEY WORK

• Thank you to Jason Gapco at Education Solutions for careful editing and text suggestions, 12/2008
• Thank you to Steven Prior, a reader, for questions leading to our clarification of the function of the large and small pump pressure control switch springs, and for his photograph of the pump switch springs, 3/23/2009
• Thanks to reader Rise for pointing out that turning a nut clockwise means "to the right" or to the "more tight" position in the convention of how most threaded devices work. Nov 2009.
• Thanks to reader Don Travis for discussing water pump adjustment details - July 2010
  
  
• Pumptrol™ Pressure Switch Adjustment, Square D, Schneider Electric Corporation, 8001 Knightdale Blvd., Knightdale< NC 27545 1-888-778-2733 - Square D Technical Library, web search 07/24/2010 original source: http://ecatalog.squared.com/techlib/docdetail.cfm?oid=09008926800a93be
  
• How to Adjust Water Pump Pressure: The detailed, step by step procedure for inspecting and adjusting the water pressure control switch is discussed in detail at ADJUST PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL.
• Diagnosing Water Pump Short Cycling on and off: If your water pump is clicking on and off too often or quite rapidly see SHORT CYCLING.
• Diagnosing & Repairing Lost Air in the Water Tank: The problem of lost air in the water pressure tank along with how to correct that condition are discussed beginning at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS.
• Diagnosing & Repairing a Water Pressure Control or Water Pump Control Switch: We discuss diagnosing and repairing a water pressure control switch that sticks "on" or "off" or simply won't operate, at water pump Pressure Switch Repairs.
• Details on how to Repair the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch are discussed at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR
• Replacing a Bad Water Pressure Control Switch is discussed step by step at PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE

Water Supply & Drain Piping, Wells, Pumps, Water Supply Equipment

• Access Water Energy, PO Box 2061, Moorabbin, VIC 3189, Australia, Tel: 1300 797 758, email: sales@accesswater.com.au Moorabbin Office: Kingston Trade Centre, 100 Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin, VIC 3189
  Australian supplier of: Greywater systems, Solar power to grid packages, Edwards solar systems, Vulcan compact solar systems, water & solar system pumps & controls, and a wide rage of above ground & under ground water storage tanks: concrete, steel, plastic, modular, and bladder storage tanks.
• Cheating on water tests: Testing Water for Real Estate Transactions - make sure your water test is valid
• Diagnosing Clogged Drains: Is it a blocked drain or the septic system? - A First Step for Homeowners
• Drinking Water Contaminant Levels - Maximum Allowed
• Drinking Water Supply, Contamination Levels, Water Testing Procedures
• Drinking Water Testing Advice for home buyers home owners home inspectors
• Interpreting Drinking Water Test Results and Correcting Unsatisfactory Water
• Lead Contamination in Drinking Water: Testing & Correction - Advice (This Article)
• Lead Testing & Correcting Contamination from Lead Water Supply Lines/Entry Mains - Lead Pipe Problems/Advice
• Life Expectancy of Water Pumps - Well Pumps: how long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?
• Life Expectancy of Wells & Water Tanks how long should a water well and its components last?
• Plumbing Diagnosis & Repair: Water supply, drainage, septic systems, water testing, water contamination, defective plumbing materials & products.
• Shock or Chlorinate a Well, How to - Procedure for Shocking a Well to (temporarily or maybe longer) "Correct" Bacterial Contamination
• Smart Tank, Installation Instructions [ copy on file as /water/Smart_Tank_Flexcon.pdf ] - , Flexcon Industries, 300 Pond St., Randolph MA 02368, www.flexconind.com, Tel: 800-527-0030 - web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/st_install.pdf
• Typical Shallow Well One Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect_Jet_Pumps_1.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
• Typical Deep Well Two Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
• Water Fact Sheet #3, Using Low-Yielding Wells [ copy on file as /water/Low_Yield_Wells_Penn_State.pdf ] - , Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences, Cooperative Extension, School of Forest Resources, web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/XH0002.pdf
• Water pressure tanks - how to diagnose the need for air, how to add air, stop water pump short cycling to avoid damage - water storage water pressure tank safety.
• Water pump and pressure tank repair diagnosis & cost an specific case offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost
• Water pressure tank failures & water pump short cycling diagnosis and repair
• Water Supply & Drain Piping, water and drain pipe types, inspection, diagnosis, repairs, problem materials, clogging, etc.
• Water Tests & Fees this water test fee schedule applies when testing is combined with other onsite building inspection services
• Water Testing: background comments on classes of water contaminants, & links to home buyer advice about water testing, drinking water, water supply
• Water Requirements, Home & Outdoor Living

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

• Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 2010, $69.00 U.S., is available from Carson Dunlop, and from the InspectAPedia bookstore. The 2010 edition of the Home Reference Book is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. InspectAPedia.com ® author/editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.

• Crystal Clear Supply provides portable ceramic water filter purifiers and portable reverse osmosis water treatment equipment - see http://www.crystalclearsupply.com/category_s/7.htm
• Handbook of Disinfectants and Antiseptics, Joseph M. Ascenzi (Editor), CRC, 1995, ISBN-10: 0824795245 ISBN-13: 978-0824795245 "The evaluation of chemical germicides predates the golden age of microbiology..." -
  This well-focused, up-to-date reference details the current medical uses of antiseptics and disinfectants -- particularly in the control of hospital-acquired infections -- presenting methods for evaluating products to obtain regulatory approval and examining chemical, physical, and microbiological properties as well as the toxicology of the most widely used commercial chemicals.
• Potable Aqua® emergency drinking water germicidal tablets are produced by the Wisconsin Pharmacal Co., Jackson WI 53037. 800-558-6614 pharmacalway.com
• Principles and Practice of Disinfection, Preservation and Sterilization (Hardcover)
  by A. D. Russell (Editor), W. B. Hugo (Editor), G. A. J. Ayliffe (Editor), Blackwell Science, 2004. ISBN-10: 1405101997, ISBN-13: 978-1405101998.
  "This superb book is the best of its kind available and one that will undoubtedly be useful, if not essential, to workers in a variety of industries. Thirty-one distinguished specialists deal comprehensively with the subject matter indicated by the title ... The book is produced with care, is very readable with useful selected references at the end of each chapter and an excellent index. It is an essential source book for everyone interested in this field. For pharmacy undergraduates, it will complement the excellent text on pharmaceutical microbiology by two of the present editors."
  The Pharmaceutical Journal: "This is an excellent book. It deals comprehensively and authoritatively with its subject with contributions from 31 distinguished specialists. There is a great deal to interest all those involved in hospital infection ... This book is exceptionally well laid out. There are well chosen references for each chapter and an excellent index. It is highly recommended." The Journal of Hospital Infection.: "The editors and authors must be congratulated for this excellent treatise on nonantibiotic antimicrobial measures in hospitals and industry ... The publication is highly recommended to hospital and research personnel, especially to clinical microbiologists, infection-control and environmental-safety specialists, pharmacists, and dieticians."
  New England Journal of Medicine: City Hospital, Birmingham, UK. Covers the many methods of the elimination or prevention of microbial growth. Provides an historical overview, descriptions of the types of antimicrobial agents, factors affecting efficacy, evaluation methods, and types of resistance. Features sterilization methods, and more. Previous edition: c1999. DNLM: Sterilization--methods.
• U.S. Army Field Manual 21-10, Field Hygiene and Sanitation, 1988, web search 07/02/2010, original source: http://www.enlisted.info/field-manuals/fm-21-10-field-hygiene-and-sanitation.shtml
  The purpose of this manual is to assist individual soldiers, unit commanders, leaders and field sanitation teams in preventing disease and environmental injuries. The manual provides information on preventive medicine measures (PMM) to the individual soldier as well as essential information for the unit commander, unit leaders, and the unit field sanitation team on applying unit level PMM.
• When Technology Fails, Matthew Stein, Chelsea Green Publisher, 2008,493 pages. ISBN-10: 1933392452 ISBN-13: 978-1933392455, "... how to find and sterilize water in the face of utility failure, as well as practical information for dealing with water-quality issues even when the public tap water is still flowing". Mr. Stein's website is www.whentechfails.com/
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