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InspectAPedia ® Home WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES AIR INLET VALVE, WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROLS, WATER TANK BIOLOGICAL POLLUTANTS BOD WASTEWATER TEST Bisphenol-A, BPA CHEMICAL CONTAMINANTS in WATER CHECK VALVES, HEATING SYSTEM CHECK VALVES, WATER SUPPLY CHLORAMINE / CHLORINE Tests CHLORINE IN DRINKING WATER CHLORINE in WATER, HOW TO TEST FOR CISTERNS DEBRIS in WATER SUPPLY, Water Heater DRINKING WATER TESTING DRINKING WATER - EMERGENCY PURIFICATION DRINKING WATER - EMERGENCY SOURCES EPA GUIDE to WATER QUALITY FHA WATER TESTS REQUIRED FILTERS, WATER FOOT VALVES, WELL PIPING GALVANIC SCALE & METAL CORROSION GREYWATER SYSTEMS HARD WATER - SOFTENERS HEAT TAPE USAGE GUIDE LEAD POISONING HAZARDS GUIDE Legionella Legionnaires' Disease METHANE GAS SOURCES MVOCs & MOLDY MUSTY ODORS MSDS Material Safety Data Sheets MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENTS ODORS GASES SMELLS, DIAGNOSIS & CURE ODORS IN WATER OZONE HAZARDS PLUMBING SYSTEM INSPECT DIAGNOSE REPAIR Pesticide Exposure Hazards PIPING IN buildings, Clogs Leaks Types PLASTIC CONTAINERS, TANKS, TYPES PLUMBING SYSTEM ODORS PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH ADJUSTMENT RADON HAZARD TESTS & MITIGATION RELIEF VALVES - Water Tanks REVERSE OSMOSIS CONCENTRATE DISPOSAL SEWAGE PATHOGENS in SEPTIC SLUDGE SEWER GAS ODORS TANK TYPES: WATER, OIL, EXPANSION, ALL VALVES, PLUMBING WATER CONTAMINANT LEVELS WATER FILTERS WATER HAMMER NOISE DIAGNOSE & CURE WATER HEATERS WATER ODORS, CAUSE CURE WATER PRESSURE & FLOW MEASUREMENT WATER PRESSURE VARIATION CAUSES WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH: DANGERS Definition of Static Water Pressure Definition of Dynamic Water Pressure Measure Municipal Water Pressure Measure Pump & Well Water Pressure WATER FLOW RATE MEASUREMENT HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE WATER PRESSURE GAUGES WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE WATER PRESSURE REPAIR CORRECTLY? 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Water supply systems installation, diagnosis, repair of wells, well pumps, water tanks: these water, well, and water supply equipment articles answer inspection, diagnosis, and repair questions about the building water supply sources and equipment including water testing, water piping, water pumps, water wells, & water tanks. This water supply home page lists key articles on all building water supply topics including wells, water supply pumps, water tanks, water testing and water treatment equipment. New York State License # 16000005303 (inception to 2008). Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman. Drinking Water Tests, Water Contamination Limits, Drinking Water Testing Procedures
Water Supply Piping, & Drain Piping
Water Tanks: installation, adjustment, troubleshooting, repair of water storage tanks & water pressure tanks
Water Treatment Equipment: water disinfection, water filters, water purifiers, water softeners, water odor removal
Water Pumps, Pump Controls, Water Pressure, troubleshooting, repairs
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Two months ago I started having problems with our water well. The first thing to happen was the pressure switch caught fire, it was 25+ years old, I replaced it. Then I had the problem of the well pump kicking on and off every few seconds so I had to adjust the air in the air tank. Everything was fine for a month, then last week we started getting air in the lines, at first it was just a little air but as time went on there was more and more air until there was more air than water coming out of the faucets.
Two days ago I turned on the faucet and just a trickle of water was coming out, I went outside, looked at the pressure gauge and it was at 20 pounds and the pump was still running. I turned off the pump, checked for leaks in the house as well as all around the well housing to the home, no leaks. I left the pump off for a hour or so because I thought the water level maybe low, 20 inches of rain this month, didnt really think it would be low but I thought it maybe a possibility. A hour later when I turned on the pump it still would only go up to 15-20lbs of pressure and the pump was still running.
When I turn off the pump I don't lose any pressure, it stays at 15-20lbs until I use water in the home. I looked again for leaks, didnt find any so I replaced the pressure switch, the pressure gauge, the wires from the breaker box to the pressure switch and the wires from the pressure switch to the other bigger switch.
I thought maybe the wires were bad and not allowing enough current to run the pump properly. I filed all the points on the bigger switch box and cleaned all the connectors. I tried the pump again, still it will only go up to 15-20lbs of pressure and the pump will keep running.
The well is around 400 feet deep, I opened the top of the well housing and put my ear to it, I don't hear any water leaking back into the well and I can hear the pump running. We replaced the pump and air tank 5-6 years ago. We have lived here for 20 years and have had only a problem one time with low water levels and that was in the middle of summer with very little rain for months, its always had water.
I also checked the air tank, the rubber thing inside of it is busted or something, I'm getting water out of the air valve on top of the tank. I don't think the air tank has anything to do with the amount of pressure the pump pumps up to the home but it will have to be fixed. There is no one close that has a pump puller in service, the closest is almost 100 miles away, and its going to take them almost two weeks to get here to check out the problem.
So if anyone has any ideas, suggestions, or anything that maybe able to help please post! It will be greatly appreciated! We have 5 children with no water, its getting kind of crazy!!! Thank you! - Woody
Usually we start diagnosing a well pump and water problem by focusing first on the obvious, known problem, assuming that the chances of multiple problems happening at once are less likely. But in fact multiple well pump, water tank, piping, and pump control switch problems can occur in a given interval and might even be related to a single root cause.
In this case it sounds as if:
1. You need to replace the water pressure tank. A burst bladder in the tank can briefly send air out through faucets and will end up leaving the well pump short cycling on and off as the water tank air charge becomes lost. A burst bladder in the water tank can also interfere with water entering the tank and it might even interfere with proper operation of the pressure control switch.
2. A short cycling well pump for any cause can burn-up the pump pressure control switch. On occasion it can also damage the pump itself - which in your case is a submersible down in the well, costly and a lot of trouble to replace. So we ought to be as thorough as we can with the above-ground tests and fixes before pulling the pump out of the well.
3. Some causes of a well pump running on without shutting off include loss of water in the well, a damaged pump, a well piping leak, and a pressure control switch set to a cut-off value higher than the pump can reach. at Related Topics under WATER PUMP PROBLEM DIAGNOSTIC TABLE take a look at the article named WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING.
But first swap out that bad water pressure tank and give us a comment back here on what happened. See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR for our complete diagnostic series.
Concrete blocks from the well pit wall fell onto my pump and pressure control switch, smashing everything. I'm trying to get it working again. How do I fix-up and get the pump switch going?
Amy, take a look at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH to see details on how these switches work, are wired, and are repaired or replaced. If the blocks broke off the switch from its mount, you'll probably find it easier and more reliable to just replace the switch and its mounting tubing or hardware.
What would cause a water pressure drop throughout whole house and after runs a little bit a loud humming sounds is produced through the pipes - anon
About a water pressure drop throughout the whole house and humming pipes: the observation that it's the whole house that's affected argues that the problem is with your well or pump. But with no other information a diagnostic guess would be just too speculative.
See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
or WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE to see our diagnostic guide for loss of water pressure in a home.
After shocking my well, i had to replace my whole house water filter about 6 to 8 times, because it would plug up with black sediment. Is this normal? - Tom
Tom, no it's not normal for shocking the well itself to cause the water filter to clog up.
If by shocking the well you simply poured a bleach solution into the well casing, that alone wouldn't explain the debris clogging at your water filter, but if you followed our recommended procedure of washing down the casing sides with recycled chlorinated water then indeed you may have stirred up debris in the well. After replacing the filter a couple of times this problem should stop.
If the clogging of your water filter continues then I suspect that something has happened either to the well casing (a crack or opening admitting dirt), the aquifer (changed, perhaps due to nearby drilling or blasting), or the well piping (a leak).
If the problem persists you'll need to install a higher capacity sediment filter system on your water supply. See FILTERS, WATER.
Watch out: the conditions you describe would lead me to also have a bacteria test for well contamination.
I'm a "newbie" when it comes to water pumps, so I've been looking over your website to try and educate myself. However, I still have some questions - and also need some advice.
The outside water feed pipe from the public system to my house is almost 90 years old. The feed pipe is 7/8" and there is no pressure regulator (at least not inside the house.) Plus, the outside feed pipe runs uphill for about 40 feet at roughly a 50% grade (20 degrees). So, I'm pretty sure this is the reason why the water pressure to my house is not great. (My current pressure provides only 1-1/3 GPM. I'd prefer - at a minimum - 2.0 GPM. More would be better.) I don't doubt that there might be a kink somewhere in the feed pipe, but I'm sure there is no leak.
As I can't (as of now) afford to have a new outdoor feed pipe installed, I was looking into a water pressure booster pump and tank system. My questions are:
(1) Would a new outdoor feed pipe installation (which I can't afford right now) solve my problem?
(2) In the interim, would a water pressure booster pump and tank system solve my problem?
(3) Finally, what type of system and components should I get? (The system would have to be electric, and would - at a minimum - provide 2.0 GPM of pressure. More would be better. We are a family of five with a house that has two full baths.)
Any info and advice you can give would be appreciated. Thanks much! - F.B. 8/2/12
(1) Would a new outdoor feed pipe installation (which I can't afford right now) solve my problem?
Probably not. The problem you describe is a well with limited flow rate or water supply capacity. Adding a larger diameter pipe beyond 1" nominal ID is not likely to improve water pressure. Adding a larger diameter pipe can improve the flow rate in a plumbing system. But in most homes poor water flow within the home is due to in-home piping, controls, valves, combined with a low starting pressure at the in-home water pressure tank.
(2) In the interim, would a water pressure booster pump and tank system solve my problem?
Possibly, especially if your booster pump were combined with an in-home water pressure tank
or a more powerful well pump at the starting end, but
Watch out: installing a more powerful pump often makes the inadequacy of the well's flow rate immediately apparent - you can pump water faster or to a higher pressure but if the well inflow rate doesn't keep up you just run out of water sooner
(3) Finally, what type of system and components should I get? (The system would have to be electric, and would - at a minimum - provide 2.0 GPM of pressure. More would be better. We are a family of five with a house that has two full baths.)
A higher HP well pump can improve pressure and better overcome the head or lift between your well and building. But I'd check and confirm the well flow rate.
If the well flow rate is inadequate there are steps you can take to increase well yield or to add water storage (discussed here as well)
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