Diagnostic Guide for Poor Water Pressure or Lost Water Pressure InspectAPedia® -
Checklist of water pressure problem diagnosis and repair steps
Well pump problem diagnostic checklist
Well water problem diagnostic checklist
Water pressure loss or poor water problem diagnostic checklist
How to diagnose loss of water pressure or loss of water in a building - both municipal water supply and private well systems are addressed
Questions & answers about how best to diagnose the cause of poor building water pressure or lost water pressure
This WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE provides a table giving step by step checklist for diagnosing water pressure, water pump, and water well problems. We give diagnostic and repair procedures for both municipal water supply problems and well water supply problems.
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Table of Diagnostic Steps for Poor Water Pressure from a Pump & Well System
Keep in mind that if water is running elsewhere in the building (another shower, sink, dishwasher, clothes washer, garden hose, etc) then the water pressure you will observe at your location will usually be reduced.
How to Diagnose & Correct Poor Well Water Pressure or Flow or Well Pump Problems
Well Pump Runs, but Poor Water Pressure or No Water Pressure
Poor Water Pressure Cause
Diagnostic Procedure
Repair Procedure
No Water at All
There is no water pressure. See the water pressure problem diagnostic steps in this table (below) or go to our diagnostic article series beginning at No Water Pressure
If municipal building water pressure varies independently of the number of fixtures you are running then the incoming pressure may be changing. Install and monitor a pressure gauge at the water meter or main water shutoff valve.
If water pressure varies depending on the number of fixtures running then the incoming water pressure may be inadequate or the building piping diameter may be too small.
See the diagnostic items listed in this table (below)
MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS explains how to diagnose poor municipal or community water supply quantity or pressure in complete detail
Well Pump Runs but Does Not Deliver Any Water or Does Not Deliver Enough Water
Closed or partly closed water supply valve
Be sure that you haven't forgotten and left a valve closed between the pump and water tank. This can happen if someone closes a valve to perform other work on the plumbing system.
Be sure at least one clear water piping pathway is open between the water pump outlet side and the water pressure tank inlet side.
Low Well Water Level or Loss of water in the well
If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously.
Turn off the well pump and allow the well to recover - one to several hours may be needed.
Re-start the well pump. Note how much water can be drawn before the water supply or flow rate drops or stops.
Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.
Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate.
Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage.
Switch from a shallow-well (one line jet pump) to a deep well equipment system (2-line jet pump or in-well submersible pump).
Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well.
Use a VOM to check the line voltage at the pressure switch or pump motor wiring terminals
If the voltage is under the recommended voltage (see pump label or installation manual) check that the wiring is of proper gauge for the amperage and length of run.
Confirm that voltage at the electrical panel is normal
If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug.
If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue.
A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime.
Water piping problem: undersized or clogged water pipes
Water pressure is weak in all building areas or only in some building areas, but at some or all fixtures in that area.
If water supply piping is too small in diameter, or if there are many, perhaps unnecessary elbows and fittings, especially if there are long piping runs in the building, water flow will be impeded.
If water pressure is consistently poor regardless of pump settings, or if when you turn on water the pressure is strong for a moment or two, then falls off quickly you may have clogged piping or under-sized piping.
Install larger diameter water supply piping in part or all of the supply system. Installing larger piping in even part of the system will help.
Check for & clean or repair clogged water filter, blocked or clogged water treatment equipment.
Blocked water piping, clogged water filter or other water treatment equipment
A blocked or clogged water filter or pipe or other water treatment equipment close to the water pressure tank can cause very rapid on-off cycling of the water pump, particularly if the filter, valve, or equipment is located between the water pump and the water pressure tank.
Check the order of installation of equipment. Be sure at least one clear water piping pathway is open between the water pump outlet side and the water pressure tank inlet side.
Watch out: turn off the pump right away to avoid damage.
Plumbing Fixture Problem: poor flow at individual fixtures
If water pressure is good at some fixtures and bad at others, remove the faucet strainer or shower head at the bad-flow fixture. If water pressure is good without the strainer, the strainer was clogged.
Check that the control valves for the fixture are fully open.
Check for a clogged pipe, elbow or valve serving the poor-flowing fixture.
Clean or replace clogged fixture strainers.
Open or replace stuck, partly shut fixture water supply control valves.
If cold water pressure is more than hot water pressure and flow then the hot water piping, tankless coil, or water heater may be clogged with minerals.
Clean blocked piping or coil with acid (dangerous and not permanent) or replace clogged piping and equipment.
Check the hardness level of the water supply and if necessary install a water softener.
Well piping problem: Air lock in well piping suction line
If the horizontal well piping between well and building does not slope continually upwards or if it has a high spot, an air lock can form in the piping.
Piping or fitting leak on the suction side or well side of the system
A leak in the well supply piping anywhere between the water pick-up point in the well bottom and the entry to the water pressure tank can cause loss of water pressure and water pump short cycling. (It can also cause air entry into the piping system).
For shallow wells install a pressure gauge on the suction side of the system. If your well is a deep well (2-line jet pump) install a pressure gauge on the pump if an attachment point is available.
Let the pump run until it reaches its cut-off pressure. Note the pressure on the gauge. Turn off power to the pump. Turn off water leaving the pressure tank and feeding the building - the valve on the "discharge" side of the system.
Alternatively, after closing the water valve on the output or discharge side of the system (stop feeding water to the building), use a bicycle pump to pump air into the system at the air inlet valve (if your system has one). Pump to 30 psi.
Watch for a pressure drop. If the system won't hold pressure then there is ale a leak on the "suction side" of the water system.
Leaks may be a bad check valve, foot valve, or piping connection anywhere between the pressure tank and well bottom.
First check and tighten all above-ground well piping connections to be sure nothing is leaking. Remember to check or replace any above-ground check valves that may be leaking.
Repeat the test.
If the system still won't hold pressure you will need to pull the well piping and check for a defective or leaky piping connection, check valve, or foot valve.
Bad water pump control switch tubing, clogged or leaky
Clogged or leaky tubing connecting a water pump pressure control switch to the water system results in failure to properly sense and respond to water pressure.
Debris clogging can also occur in the bottom of the pressure control switch where it mounts or connects to the tubing.
Check and clear tubing blockage (blow air through tubing). Or install new tubing.
Be sure tubing is proper diameter and type to seal properly with other fittings.
Tighten tubing fittings to be sure there are no water or air leaks. Soap solution may help find air leaks in tubing fittings.
Clear or replace clogged pressure control switch if the bottom sensor opening is clogged and cannot be cleared.
Pressure regulating wire or valve stuck or incorrectly set (deep wells only)
Check the valve setting, inspect the valve for defects
Reset, clean, or replace the pressure regulating valve on the deep well pump or piping
Well pump parts worn or defective
Worn or broken pump impeller parts or bearings, or debris clogging inside the impeller assembly will reduce pump output even though the motor appears to run normally. Complete clogging or badly damaged impeller parts or bearings will stop water output completely.
Disassemble the well water pump impeller assembly, inspect for damage, clean or replace suspect or damaged parts.
If necessary, for example if parts are badly rusted and cannot be disassembled and cleaned, replace the entire pump.
Wrong well pump ejector assembly installed in the well
Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece
If the wrong ejector has been installed in the well, not properly matched to the pump, water flow may be inadequate.
If the ejector is clogged, damaged, or leaky, water flow to the building will be reduced.
To diagnose and correct this problem it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging
Notes: Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.
Frequently Asked Questions about the causes and cures of water pressure, well, and pump problems
Comment: working on well and piping systems can cause water filter clogging & loss of water pressure
Just wanted to share a problem that occurred with us the last time we put air in the water pump tank. After putting air in the tank, we turned the pump on and the pump worked fine. Pressure to the first water filter was excellent but there was little to no water coming out in the outlets in the house. Turns out it was the primary filter.
Apparently when you run the water down in the tank to zero, there is a lot of sediment in the line when you turn it back on. This clogged up the primary filter causing little to no water to go to the house outlets.
We discovered this was the cause by removing the filters and just putting the casing back on and then checking the water pressure in the house. Without the filter we had great pressure. So we changed the filters and everything was fine (even though we had just changed the filter two months before). Lesson to learn is when you zero out the pump, make sure you change ALL the filters after the water has built back up (want to wait until it builds back up or you will just get the sediment in the new filters). - Douglas Erb
Reply:
Thanks for this helpful tip, Douglas - indeed we need to remember that doing any plumbing work can stir up debris in the system that then clogs a water filter. Sometimes where there is no main water filter installed, we can see a similar problem showing up as reduced flow at individual faucets after some work on the plumbing system - unscrew the faucet strainers and flush out the piping and clean the strainers if you see that additional problem.
Question: After replacing a hot water tank we've got lost water pressure. Is it electrical, a clogged filter, bad tank bladder or what?
I have an outside well with an above ground pump. Until a year ago, when I replaced the gas hot water tank located in the attic, I had no well water pressure or water flow problems . The most I could complain about was the occasional specks of fine dirt in the garden tub. Its one year later, and I have started to experience good pressure on hot and cold water for about a minute and half before the water slows and then stops. I simply shut the faucets off and wait for about a 2 minute period and then turn them both back on and the water flows without interruption or loss of pressure. In two recent times the outside sub panel breaker box which houses the A/C and the Well pump breakers, the Well pump breaker was tripped. Do I have an electrical issue (electric pump intermittent failure), a filter or bladder clog, or some other age or sediment related issue. The well is 12 plus years old and delivers throughout the worse droughts here in NC. What should and could I do to fix this? - Vince NB, Charlotte NC
Reply: a clogged water filter stays clogged until it's replaced - it won't get better on its own. A stick tank bladder or control can, however give intermittent water pressure behavior
I'm not sure, Vince, but I don't think that a clogged filter will recover when water is shut off; a flapping bit of debris at a hot water tank or cold water pressure tank can behave that way. The tripping pump breaker is a clue that the pump motor may be failing or overheating. I'd check there.
Question: Water pressure tank is empty after replacing our hot water heater. I think there is a sediment clog somewhere
I recently replaced my water heater without any problems and filled it according to standard practice. While refilling, I noticed a lot of sediment from the faucets, which is pretty common in this area every time water is cut off. I replaced my sediment filter but noticed the pressure tank is empty. Water pressure of the house meets any single appliance demand, but it we try to run two fixtures at once, the water will cut off, about thirty seconds, then turn on again. My current well level is relatively high. My guess is that I have a sediment clog preventing the tank from filling. Would you please offer your insight and perhaps supply a link if this specific issue has already been addressed? Thank you. - Kevin
Reply:
Kevin:
I agree that your diagnosis sounds reasonable - if water is not entering your water pressure tank a symptom will be short cycling on and off of the water pump. The sediment you report could have clogged the water entry port at the tank.
Provided your water tank is not waterlogged (lacking any air charge) you could try forcing water into the pressure tank by temporarily holding the pressure control relay closed to pump water to say 70 psi to see if you can force through a blockage at the tank entry.
WATCH OUT not to over pressurize your tank and blow it up (you can be hurt or killed) and Watch out not to get shocked - there are live wires in the pressure control switch.
See SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP,
and if you confirm that the water tank is not taking in water, you'll probably need to drain the tank, then
make sure it's air charge is correct (WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD)
Question: Bad well pump control box, relay switch, or pressure switch can give water pressure problems
I found your articles extremely helpful for trying to diagnose my poor water pressure/quantity problem. They helped me to understand how my system works and to figure out that our problem wasn't with the pressure tank or pressure switch. I did, however, figure out on my own that the problem was with the control box/relay switch (your articles did help me figure out what the heck that box was and what it did, though). It was an easy fix once I diagnosed the problem. Maybe there should be more mention of the control box and that being a potential cause of poor water pressure. I'm glad I didn't believe the well technician who thought our well was running dry! - Dawn T.
Reply: tracking down a bad well pump relay switch
Dawn thanks for the nice note, and I'm so glad our information was helpful.
If you would take a moment to let me know what you did to track down the problem to the "control box relay" (I am guessing you mean the pump control relay switch) I'll be glad to write up and add that information as it would certainly help other readers. Some photos of the equipment you are discussing would be very valuable too. Use the CONTACT link found on our pages to send me photos or more suggestions.
Thanks so much
Question: Sudden loss of water pressure, adding air to the pressure tank didn't help
I have a 7yr old submersible that feeds our whole house. Turned a faucet on and it has low pressure. Worked fine hours prior. Never had low pressure so never checked air pressure in bladder tank. I looked at the PSI gauge and it reads 10psi. The tank seems empty or close to it. When turning the breaker on and off I hear a gurgling in the pipes tool. The contacts look perfect, I put some air in the tank with a hand pump but nothing changed. I have low low pressure but don't want the pump running so i turned it off for the night. its of course 2am now.
I have read the website and still cannot figure out where to start diagnosing this mess. It happened suddenly so that scares me but do have some although very low pressure. It just seems like the pump is on low speed and just pumps to the house an not the tank.
Does the piping have a valve in it or just the pipe that goes up to the switch box and the spigot for the PSI gauge? Other than that don't see why the tank wouldn't get filled. any help on this would be awesome. Thanks
my email is 3010ict @ Gmail - King Ray
Reply: track down why the well pump is not turning on
KingRay it sounds as if your pump is not coming on, or if it is running, that it is not reaching pressure, either because of a control problem or perhaps low water level in the well. Try going to the table above and scan through the steps from the top of the table (making sure there is electrical power, figuring out if the pump is turning on) to see what helps.
Question: lost water pressure after changing over our pressure tank
I just replaced my "non-pressurized" cold water tank with a "pressure tank". Now, when the pump reaches the low, "on" pressure, my water slows way down and my pressure drops. What could be causing this? It did not do this prior to the tank change. - Anon
Reply: check for sediment clogging of the pressure control switch; check for wiring errors if you touched wiring connections.
Particularly if your new pressure tank installation did not include a new pressure control switch, the tank change out may have stirred debris that has clogged the sensor port on your pressure switch. Clogging occurs in the small diameter mounting tube (typically 1/8" NPT) that connects the pressure control switch to the water supply piping at the tank bottom, or at the still smaller orifice at the bottom of the pressure control switch. A quick fix is to simply replace these parts.
Questions & Answers regarding this article
Questions & answers about how best to diagnose the cause of poor building water pressure or lost water pressure.
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Thanks to Jeneral Sewer Service - George - 845-297-2285, a New York Hudson Valley drain and sewer cleaning and de-clogging expert for technical details and consulting on drain clog diagnosis and repair, including proper use of the Kinetic Water Ram for drain clearing - 3/14/2009
Thanks to our reader, Carole Cimitile, 2/17/2009, for reminding us that small problems like faucet o-rings, clogged faucet strainers and similar local plumbing fixture defects can have a big impact on hot water flow, cold water flow, or both hot and cold water flow and pressure problems.
Thanks to reader EK Woodard, Boise State University, Boise ID, for assistance in diagnosing poor water pressure following an electrical power loss.
3/14/2010
Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual, National Pump Co., LLC., includes helpful well pump troubleshooting tips as well as basic jet pump installation details. Web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.nationalpumpcompany.com/Documents/OIM/Betta%20Flo%20IOM%20Jet%20Pump.pdf
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Typical Shallow Well One Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect_Jet_Pumps_1.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
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