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WATER TESTS, CONTAMINANTS, TREATMENT
WATER TREATMENT EQUIPMENT CHOICES
WELLS CISTERNS & SPRINGS
WELL FLOW RATE
WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
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WINTERIZE A BUILDING

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Diagnostic Guide for Poor Water Pressure or Lost Water Pressure       Checklist of water pressure problem diagnosis and repair steps Well pump problem diagnostic checklist Well water problem diagnostic checklist Water pressure loss or poor water problem diagnostic checklist How to diagnose loss of water pressure or loss of water in a building - both municipal water supply and private well systems are addressed Questions & Answers about how best to diagnose the cause of poor building water pressure or lost water pressure References

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This WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE provides a table giving step by step checklist for diagnosing water pressure, water pump, and water well problems. We give diagnostic and repair procedures for both municipal water supply problems and well water supply problems.

Green links show where you are. © Copyright 2013 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Author Daniel Friedman.

Table of Diagnostic Steps for Poor Water Pressure from a Pump & Well System

Keep in mind that if water is running elsewhere in the building (another shower, sink, dishwasher, clothes washer, garden hose, etc) then the water pressure you will observe at your location will usually be reduced.

Our discussion of bad water pressure or flow begins at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR and continues, divided into water pressure loss symptoms and diagnostic steps for MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS and separately, WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS.

Also see our other diagnostic guides for water pumps, wells, motors, in table form:

• ELECTRIC MOTOR DIAGNOSTIC GUIDE - table format and text.
• SHORT CYCLING DIAGNOSIS TABLE - table format. Also see SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP - text.
• WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE - table format. Also see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR - text.
• WATER PUMP PROBLEM DIAGNOSTIC TABLE - table format.

How to Diagnose & Correct Poor Well Water Pressure or Flow or Well Pump Problems
Well Pump Will Not Start or Will Not Run - see the diagnostic table at ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH and see WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR - pump relay turns on pump or turns on a separate water pump relay WATER PUMP RELAY SWITCH - heavy duty relay turns on submersible pump WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES - electrical power switches
Well Pump Keeps Running, Pump Will Not Shut Off - see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
Well Pump Turns On and Off to Often - water pump short cycling - see SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP
Well Pump Runs Intermittently for No Apparent Reason - no water running - see INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS
Well Pump Runs, but Poor Water Pressure or No Water Pressure
Poor Water Pressure Cause	Diagnostic Procedure	Repair Procedure
No Water at All	There is no water pressure. See the water pressure problem diagnostic steps in this table (below) or go to our diagnostic article series beginning at No Water Pressure	Also see How to Test Well Water Quantity and see How to Get More Water From a Well.
Poor city or municipal water pressure or flow	If municipal building water pressure varies independently of the number of fixtures you are running then the incoming pressure may be changing. Install and monitor a pressure gauge at the water meter or main water shutoff valve. If water pressure varies depending on the number of fixtures running then the incoming water pressure may be inadequate or the building piping diameter may be too small. See the diagnostic items listed in this table (below)	MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS explains how to diagnose poor municipal or community water supply quantity or pressure in complete detail Also see WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP WATER PRESSURE REDUCER / REGULATOR PLASTIC PIPE LEAK CAUSES MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE IMPROVEMENTS
Poor private well water pressure, quantity, or flow diagnosis article	If private well water pressure, flow, or quantity vary or are inadequate See the diagnostic items listed in this table (below)	WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS provides a detailed article on diagnosing poor water pressure or flow
Water pressure comes and goes	Water pressure starts, stops, or is intermittent the problem may be in the equipment or more likely in the well itself.	See the steps in this table below. Also see this diagnostic article: Water Pressure Intermittent Also see WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY
Water Runs Out Water pressure is fine but run out of water - then none or very poor	If water pressure seems ok for a while but sometimes you run out of water or water pressure becomes poor and weak your well may be running dry.	see How to Test Well Water Quantity and see How to Get More Water From a Well.
Well Pump Runs but Does Not Deliver Any Water or Does Not Deliver Enough Water
Closed or partly closed water supply valve	Be sure that you haven't forgotten and left a valve closed between the pump and water tank. This can happen if someone closes a valve to perform other work on the plumbing system.	Be sure at least one clear water piping pathway is open between the water pump outlet side and the water pressure tank inlet side.
Low Well Water Level or Loss of water in the well	If the well water level has fallen too low or the well recovery rate is too poor, or if the well pump is oversized for the well flow rate, the pump may run continuously. Turn off the well pump and allow the well to recover - one to several hours may be needed. Re-start the well pump. Note how much water can be drawn before the water supply or flow rate drops or stops. Other symptoms of this problem include air discharge at plumbing fixtures.	Install a properly-sized well pump matched to the well flow rate. Install a tailpiece and/or low water cutoff device to protect the pump from damage. Switch from a shallow-well (one line jet pump) to a deep well equipment system (2-line jet pump or in-well submersible pump). Investigate and fix the cause of a poor flow rate or low-yield well. See WELL FLOW RATE Define Safe Yield for a Well. WELL LIFE EXPECTANCY WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR WATER QUANTITY IMPROVEMENT WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Low Line Voltage - slow pump operation	Use a VOM to check the line voltage at the pressure switch or pump motor wiring terminals	If the voltage is under the recommended voltage (see pump label or installation manual) check that the wiring is of proper gauge for the amperage and length of run. Confirm that voltage at the electrical panel is normal
Partial loss of pump prime	Air in the pump or piping system may reduce water flow. See AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES If no water is being delivered and the pump is running and it's an above ground pump, turn off power and inspect the pump cavity for the presence of water by removing the priming plug. If the pump is a submersible unit in the well, loss of prime is not normally an issue. A bad check valve or failed foot valve can lead to loss of well prime.	Re-prime the pump - see WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE If the problem is recurrent see   WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES   WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES   WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS   WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Water piping problem: undersized or clogged water pipes	Water pressure is weak in all building areas or only in some building areas, but at some or all fixtures in that area. If water supply piping is too small in diameter, or if there are many, perhaps unnecessary elbows and fittings, especially if there are long piping runs in the building, water flow will be impeded. If water pressure is consistently poor regardless of pump settings, or if when you turn on water the pressure is strong for a moment or two, then falls off quickly you may have clogged piping or under-sized piping.	Install larger diameter water supply piping in part or all of the supply system. Installing larger piping in even part of the system will help. Check for & clean or repair clogged water filter, blocked or clogged water treatment equipment. See WATER FILTERS Bad water pressure Clogged Pipes Water pipe clog repair guide
Blocked water piping, clogged water filter or other water treatment equipment	A blocked or clogged water filter or pipe or other water treatment equipment close to the water pressure tank can cause very rapid on-off cycling of the water pump, particularly if the filter, valve, or equipment is located between the water pump and the water pressure tank.	Check the order of installation of equipment. Be sure at least one clear water piping pathway is open between the water pump outlet side and the water pressure tank inlet side. Replace a dirty, clogged, or suspect water filter cartridge. See WATER FILTERS and CLOGGED SUPPLY PIPING. Watch out: turn off the pump right away to avoid damage.
Plumbing Fixture Problem: poor flow at individual fixtures	If water pressure is good at some fixtures and bad at others, remove the faucet strainer or shower head at the bad-flow fixture. If water pressure is good without the strainer, the strainer was clogged. Check that the control valves for the fixture are fully open. Check for a clogged pipe, elbow or valve serving the poor-flowing fixture.	Clean or replace clogged fixture strainers. Open or replace stuck, partly shut fixture water supply control valves. See Water Pressure Bad at Some Fixtures Water pipe clog diagnosis Water pipe clog repair guide
Poor hot water flow or quantity Hot water flow weaker than cold water flow	If cold water pressure is more than hot water pressure and flow then the hot water piping, tankless coil, or water heater may be clogged with minerals.	Clean blocked piping or coil with acid (dangerous and not permanent) or replace clogged piping and equipment. Check the hardness level of the water supply and if necessary install a water softener. See HOT WATER IMPROVEMENTS
Well piping problem: Air lock in well piping suction line	If the horizontal well piping between well and building does not slope continually upwards or if it has a high spot, an air lock can form in the piping.	Piping may have to be re-run with proper and uniform slope. Also see WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
Piping or fitting leak on the suction side or well side of the system	A leak in the well supply piping anywhere between the water pick-up point in the well bottom and the entry to the water pressure tank can cause loss of water pressure and water pump short cycling. (It can also cause air entry into the piping system). For shallow wells install a pressure gauge on the suction side of the system. If your well is a deep well (2-line jet pump) install a pressure gauge on the pump if an attachment point is available. Let the pump run until it reaches its cut-off pressure. Note the pressure on the gauge. Turn off power to the pump. Turn off water leaving the pressure tank and feeding the building - the valve on the "discharge" side of the system. Alternatively, after closing the water valve on the output or discharge side of the system (stop feeding water to the building), use a bicycle pump to pump air into the system at the air inlet valve (if your system has one). Pump to 30 psi. Watch for a pressure drop. If the system won't hold pressure then there is ale a leak on the "suction side" of the water system. Leaks may be a bad check valve, foot valve, or piping connection anywhere between the pressure tank and well bottom.	First check and tighten all above-ground well piping connections to be sure nothing is leaking. Remember to check or replace any above-ground check valves that may be leaking. Repeat the test. If the system still won't hold pressure you will need to pull the well piping and check for a defective or leaky piping connection, check valve, or foot valve. See WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS and AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE CHECK VALVES, WATER SUPPLY WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE
Bad water pump control switch tubing, clogged or leaky	Clogged or leaky tubing connecting a water pump pressure control switch to the water system results in failure to properly sense and respond to water pressure. Debris clogging can also occur in the bottom of the pressure control switch where it mounts or connects to the tubing.	Check and clear tubing blockage (blow air through tubing). Or install new tubing. Be sure tubing is proper diameter and type to seal properly with other fittings. Tighten tubing fittings to be sure there are no water or air leaks. Soap solution may help find air leaks in tubing fittings. Clear or replace clogged pressure control switch if the bottom sensor opening is clogged and cannot be cleared. See    WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR  PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE
Pressure regulating wire or valve stuck or incorrectly set (deep wells only)	Check the valve setting, inspect the valve for defects	Reset, clean, or replace the pressure regulating valve on the deep well pump or piping
Well pump parts worn or defective	Worn or broken pump impeller parts or bearings, or debris clogging inside the impeller assembly will reduce pump output even though the motor appears to run normally. Complete clogging or badly damaged impeller parts or bearings will stop water output completely.	Disassemble the well water pump impeller assembly, inspect for damage, clean or replace suspect or damaged parts. If necessary, for example if parts are badly rusted and cannot be disassembled and cleaned, replace the entire pump.
Wrong well pump ejector assembly installed in the well Plugged ejector assembly, tailpiece	If the wrong ejector has been installed in the well, not properly matched to the pump, water flow may be inadequate. If the ejector is clogged, damaged, or leaky, water flow to the building will be reduced.	To diagnose and correct this problem it is necessary to pull the well piping and inspect the ejector, tailpiece, foot valve or well screen for clogging Clean or replace the clogged ejector See   WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Clogged foot valve or well screen in the well	If a well screen or foot valve screen has become clogged with debris water flow to the building will be reduced.	Clean or replace the clogged foot valve screen, or well screen. See   WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES   WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES   WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS   WELL PIPING TAIL PIECE
Well Pump Will Not Start or Will Not Run - see the diagnostic table at ELECTRIC MOTOR OVERLOAD RESET SWITCH and see WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR - pump relay turns on pump or turns on a separate water pump relay WATER PUMP RELAY SWITCH - heavy duty relay turns on submersible pump WATER PUMP ELECTRICAL SWITCHES - electrical power switches
Well Pump Keeps Running, Pump Will Not Shut Off - see WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING
Well Pump Turns On and Off to Often - water pump short cycling - see SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP
Well Pump Runs Intermittently for No Apparent Reason - no water running - see INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS

Notes: Some of the well pump troubleshooting suggestions in this list can be found at the Betta-Flo Jet Pump Installation Manual from the National Pump Co.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about the causes and cures of water pressure, well, and pump problems

Comment: working on well and piping systems can cause water filter clogging & loss of water pressure

Just wanted to share a problem that occurred with us the last time we put air in the water pump tank. After putting air in the tank, we turned the pump on and the pump worked fine. Pressure to the first water filter was excellent but there was little to no water coming out in the outlets in the house. Turns out it was the primary filter.

Apparently when you run the water down in the tank to zero, there is a lot of sediment in the line when you turn it back on. This clogged up the primary filter causing little to no water to go to the house outlets.

We discovered this was the cause by removing the filters and just putting the casing back on and then checking the water pressure in the house. Without the filter we had great pressure. So we changed the filters and everything was fine (even though we had just changed the filter two months before). Lesson to learn is when you zero out the pump, make sure you change ALL the filters after the water has built back up (want to wait until it builds back up or you will just get the sediment in the new filters). - Douglas Erb

Reply:

Thanks for this helpful tip, Douglas - indeed we need to remember that doing any plumbing work can stir up debris in the system that then clogs a water filter. Sometimes where there is no main water filter installed, we can see a similar problem showing up as reduced flow at individual faucets after some work on the plumbing system - unscrew the faucet strainers and flush out the piping and clean the strainers if you see that additional problem.

Question: After replacing a hot water tank we've got lost water pressure. Is it electrical, a clogged filter, bad tank bladder or what?

I have an outside well with an above ground pump. Until a year ago, when I replaced the gas hot water tank located in the attic, I had no well water pressure or water flow problems . The most I could complain about was the occasional specks of fine dirt in the garden tub. Its one year later, and I have started to experience good pressure on hot and cold water for about a minute and half before the water slows and then stops. I simply shut the faucets off and wait for about a 2 minute period and then turn them both back on and the water flows without interruption or loss of pressure. In two recent times the outside sub panel breaker box which houses the A/C and the Well pump breakers, the Well pump breaker was tripped. Do I have an electrical issue (electric pump intermittent failure), a filter or bladder clog, or some other age or sediment related issue. The well is 12 plus years old and delivers throughout the worse droughts here in NC. What should and could I do to fix this? - Vince NB, Charlotte NC

Reply: a clogged water filter stays clogged until it's replaced - it won't get better on its own. A stick tank bladder or control can, however give intermittent water pressure behavior

I'm not sure, Vince, but I don't think that a clogged filter will recover when water is shut off; a flapping bit of debris at a hot water tank or cold water pressure tank can behave that way. The tripping pump breaker is a clue that the pump motor may be failing or overheating. I'd check there.

Question: Water pressure tank is empty after replacing our hot water heater. I think there is a sediment clog somewhere

I recently replaced my water heater without any problems and filled it according to standard practice. While refilling, I noticed a lot of sediment from the faucets, which is pretty common in this area every time water is cut off. I replaced my sediment filter but noticed the pressure tank is empty. Water pressure of the house meets any single appliance demand, but it we try to run two fixtures at once, the water will cut off, about thirty seconds, then turn on again. My current well level is relatively high. My guess is that I have a sediment clog preventing the tank from filling. Would you please offer your insight and perhaps supply a link if this specific issue has already been addressed? Thank you. - Kevin

Reply:

Kevin:

I agree that your diagnosis sounds reasonable - if water is not entering your water pressure tank a symptom will be short cycling on and off of the water pump. The sediment you report could have clogged the water entry port at the tank.

Provided your water tank is not waterlogged (lacking any air charge) you could try forcing water into the pressure tank by temporarily holding the pressure control relay closed to pump water to say 70 psi to see if you can force through a blockage at the tank entry.

WATCH OUT not to over pressurize your tank and blow it up (you can be hurt or killed) and Watch out not to get shocked - there are live wires in the pressure control switch.

See SHORT CYCLING WATER PUMP, and if you confirm that the water tank is not taking in water, you'll probably need to drain the tank, then
make sure it's air charge is correct (WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD)

Question: Bad well pump control box, relay switch, or pressure switch can give water pressure problems

I found your articles extremely helpful for trying to diagnose my poor water pressure/quantity problem. They helped me to understand how my system works and to figure out that our problem wasn't with the pressure tank or pressure switch. I did, however, figure out on my own that the problem was with the control box/relay switch (your articles did help me figure out what the heck that box was and what it did, though). It was an easy fix once I diagnosed the problem. Maybe there should be more mention of the control box and that being a potential cause of poor water pressure. I'm glad I didn't believe the well technician who thought our well was running dry! - Dawn T.

Reply: tracking down a bad well pump relay switch

Dawn thanks for the nice note, and I'm so glad our information was helpful.

If you would take a moment to let me know what you did to track down the problem to the "control box relay" (I am guessing you mean the pump control relay switch) I'll be glad to write up and add that information as it would certainly help other readers. Some photos of the equipment you are discussing would be very valuable too. Use the CONTACT link found on our pages to send me photos or more suggestions.

Thanks so much

Question: Sudden loss of water pressure, adding air to the pressure tank didn't help

I have a 7yr old submersible that feeds our whole house. Turned a faucet on and it has low pressure. Worked fine hours prior. Never had low pressure so never checked air pressure in bladder tank. I looked at the PSI gauge and it reads 10psi. The tank seems empty or close to it. When turning the breaker on and off I hear a gurgling in the pipes tool. The contacts look perfect, I put some air in the tank with a hand pump but nothing changed. I have low low pressure but don't want the pump running so i turned it off for the night. its of course 2am now.

I have read the website and still cannot figure out where to start diagnosing this mess. It happened suddenly so that scares me but do have some although very low pressure. It just seems like the pump is on low speed and just pumps to the house an not the tank.

Does the piping have a valve in it or just the pipe that goes up to the switch box and the spigot for the PSI gauge? Other than that don't see why the tank wouldn't get filled. any help on this would be awesome. Thanks

my email is 3010ict @ Gmail - King Ray

Reply: track down why the well pump is not turning on

KingRay it sounds as if your pump is not coming on, or if it is running, that it is not reaching pressure, either because of a control problem or perhaps low water level in the well. Try going to the table above and scan through the steps from the top of the table (making sure there is electrical power, figuring out if the pump is turning on) to see what helps.

Question: lost water pressure after changing over our pressure tank

I just replaced my "non-pressurized" cold water tank with a "pressure tank". Now, when the pump reaches the low, on pressure, my water slows way down and my pressure drops. What could be causing this? It did not do this prior to the tank change. - Anon

Reply: check for sediment clogging of the pressure control switch; check for wiring errors if you touched wiring connections.

Particularly if your new pressure tank installation did not include a new pressure control switch, the tank change out may have stirred debris that has clogged the sensor port on your pressure switch. Clogging occurs in the small diameter mounting tube (typically 1/8" NPT) that connects the pressure control switch to the water supply piping at the tank bottom, or at the still smaller orifice at the bottom of the pressure control switch. A quick fix is to simply replace these parts.

Question: sudden water pressure spikes of 200 psi

I have an outside deep well that runs all outside irrigation. My pressure tanks are located in my barn about 50 yards from the well head. The well produces 40 gal per minute. Irrigation lines run from my barn to around my house which is 150 to 200 yards away. The where the well and barn are located is a slightly higer elevation than the house. Since installing the system 4 years ago, we have had periodic breaks in the lines between the well and barn. Guys were out this week to test pressure at various points. What we have discovered is that the pressure spikes for about 1 second, at just one spicket to 200 psi. any thoughts? - Rick Gilbert 11/5/11

Reply: dangerous condition, check pressure switch

Rick,

Watch out: A sudden pressure spike of 200 psi is very dangerous, likely to cause a burst pipe or burst water pressure tank - that can injure anyone nearby. It sounds as if your pressure control switch is not properly sensing the water pressure and not turning off the pump; also check for a double error of both a debris clogged pressure switch and a waterlogged pressure tank.

Question: inadequate water pressure when two things run at once - installer says it's normal

Recently replaced the well water pressure tank since we loose pressure when a toilet is flushed and faucet is turned on immediately after - we called the well people who did the installation, they came out and checked the equipment and told us everything is normal. We never experienced this problem until they replaced the tank - any help will be greatly appreciated. thank you. - George 11/18/11

Reply: nonsense

I don't agree that it's normal to have inadequate water pressure when a toilet tank is filling and you turn on a nearby faucet. If the cutoff pressure at the building is normal (40-50 psi) then you may have a clogged pipe problem.

Question: water pressure just gets worse and worse

We have progressively less water pressure as time goes by. We also have a water softener system. Our water pressure tank read 20psi. Any ideas want is wrong? - Jim Jones 2/18/12

Reply:

I suspect that your pipes are clogging with mineral deposits - check the water pressure tank at the point when the pump has just shut off; you should see 30-50 psi. If not then the problem is pump or control switch; If yes the problem is not system pressure but rather poor flow.

Question: can an air leak in my submersible pump cause loss of water pressure in my irrigation system - should I dump cream of wheat cereal into the well

I was told by someone that my loss of pressure when i run my lawn irrigation system is caused from air leak in my deep well submersable pump. I was told to take the cap off and put a box of cream of wheats and 5 gallon bucket of water down the pipe. he said it would plug up the air leak and fix the problem. - Anon 2/5/12

Reply: absurd - don't do that

Anon:

The advice you received is in my opinion idiotic.

First of all a submersible pump is normally under water, so it's not going to suffer an air leak at the pump; if the pump is NOT under-water and thus is picking up air, that means that the well flow rate itself is inadequate - that's a well problem not a pump problem. If that were the case you'd see air coming out of faucets or sprinklers.

Second, dumping goop into a well is not going to fix the well. The best you can hope for is that your cream of wheat clogs up and ruins your pump itself.

Do not dump cream of wheat, nor oatmeal, nor any other gobbeldygoop into your well.

If there are leaks in the well piping anywhere from the well pump to the final sprinkler heads, yes, when the system is running the pressure will be worse than previously.

Question: nearby fruit trees dropped the local water table, now we run out of water

1 hp shallow well jet pump for home shallow well 70-140'. pump was giving 60-70psi easy at first but nearby orange groves keep drain the local wells. Have to shut off pump when they water for frost or during dry season then reprime a day later to stop over heating. we have one bladder tank but no resivor tank. hot water tank is in house also shut off when well shut off. now pump can only barely reach 50, so we lowered the shut off by turning the big spring. the bladder tank doesn't seem to have much water in it but it does seem to have air, but don't know how much is suppose to be in that tank of air or water. has the running dry for a hour or 3 before we noticed the well went dry damaged the impeller or is the problem with the pump they are only about a year old or could it be a problem with the well.


what has been done so far:
adjusted shut off, reprimed pump, redid any screw on pipe seal with plumbers tape that seemed to have an air leak pipe seal have to be redone if the well goes dry and the pump gets hot until no water drips and no air leak can be heard

the pump is a goulds pump itt jplus jet pump
model c48a95a06-j10 b0865194
rpm 3450
amps13.016.5
the guys that installed it decided that it the well didn't need the jet adapter and did the nonjet install. - Arachia 3/21/12

Reply:

In general, the choices are to improve well yield, drill a new well, or add large capacity water storage at the property and fill those tanks slowly without exceeding your well's flow rate.

Question: after replacing a submersible pump we can't get water pressure, do we need a new tank?

We just replaced a submersible pump (well is about 350 ft deep). When we turned it back on the pressure on the gauge goes up to 50 and turns off and drops down to about 30 but doesnt build back up. Do we need a new pressure tank? - Roger 5/1/12

Reply:

Roger, if the pressure does not return after falling in your water system then either the pump is not turning on when it should or there is a well piping leak or a control problem.

The water pressure tank smooths the flow of delivery of water as the pump cycles on and off and avoids rapid pump on-off cycling, but it does not determine system pressure.

Try checking for dirt or debris clogging at both the gauge and the pressure control switch, or just replace them.

Question: Dug Well in the Philippines is not giving enough water - what can we do ?

we just built a well for my family back home in the Philippines but until now is not done yet. they already dig 85 ft. it works but the water running for 30 t0 45 mins then it stop. they thought that there is no enough water. they dig more until they reach 110 ft but still do the same. please help us what's the problem? the Pipes, pump or the water level? thank you! -Jean 5/21/12

Reply:

Jean, by looking into the well you will see where in the course of the depth of the well shaft water is entering. Digging deeper, if it does NOT get lucky enough to disclose new water entry points, is not going to increase the well flow rate. It can, however, increase the volume of water stored in the well and thus give a reserve of water for daily use. Beyond those general remarks, you need someone on scene to determine if you have a well pipe or pump problem.

Question: sudden water pressure & flow problems -

I all of a sudden started having pressure/flow problems. If I am running one fixture and turn on another I lose pressure to the other. For example if I run the shower and the washer starts to fill, the shower will lose all flow. Garden hose being turned on will do the same thing, or just any other faucet in the house.

Often my pressure in a single faucet/shower will be o.k., but not great, other times I will have excellent pressure like before. I seldom have enough water pressure at my outdoor spigots for my hoses to run a sprinkler. I have an approx. 15 year old submersible that seems to be working fine, if I open the ball valve where the water comes into the house from the pump I can fill a 6 gallon water can in a very short time with high pressure and it doesn't seem to slow at all before I have to close the valve.

I have replaced the water pressure switch with the next higher switch, with no real improvement. I do have an approx. 4' tall bladder tank that I increased the air pressure to so it would match the new pressure switch. I'm at a loss, but it would be nice to be able to run a sprinkler again, or not have to run downstairs to shut off the washer before getting in the shower. None of this was a problem until recently, any suggestions would be helpful. - Dan 7/10/12

Reply:

Dan, if water pressure reaches a normal level at pump shut-off when you are not running any water in the building, say 40 or 50 psi, then the pump is capable of delivering adequate pressure and the problem is elsewhere.

Examples of possible problems in this case include

• low well flow recovery rate - the well itself can't keep up with the building demand regardless of pump capacity
• clogged building water supply piping, faucet strainers, shower heads

Question: trouble getting water pumped out of a cistern

Help! I have a cistern with 1 1/2 inch plastic piping and a 1HP (non-self priming) pump. Water is drawn up 6ft vertically, approx. 30 ft horizontaly and down 6 ft to the pump & pressure tank. It is an additional 20 ft to my house. The system was new 3 yrs ago. When it works, it works fine.

The problem is it will work perfectly for a few weeks/months then the pump will not shut off causing a loss/or no pressure to the house. It is increadibly difficult to prime the pump. Once it is running it usually works fine for a few days, weeks ect. I have replaced the pressure switch twice and the pressure tank.

The recent pressure switch change was a couple of weeks ago and it features an automatic shut off component so the pump won't burn out.Lately when the pump won't shut off I have been wacking the switch and everything starts working again (generally for a few days). I have had several plumbers make adjustments.

Comments range from.....air leak somewhere in the line, adjust pressure switch, to insufficent power to overcome check valve. I am unable to make a logical decision what to do. Also if there is an air leak at a joint would silicon be sufficent to fix the problem or should it be replaced? I am considering buying a 1.5 HP self-priming pump? - Mike 11/9/12

Reply:

Mike,
A 1hp pump ought to be able to lift 6ft, but a bad foot valve or check valve could be losing prime. Sometimes a bad check valve will stick open, but just on occasion, making the problem intermittent, but more likely after a longer period of disuse.

Keep us posted.

Question: sudden, complete, brief loss of all water pressure for 3-5 seconds

It has recently developed that ocassionally all flow at all users will be lost for about 3-5 seconds. It occurs when one user is active (shower) and another turns on (toilet, sink). It may occur sometimes when only one user is active (shower or sink) but I have not been able to verify this.

The pressure switch seems to work OK, but the pressure gauge doesn't work well (must be tapped for the needle to move - I need to change it).

Is this likely to be an air tank problem or a pump problem or something else? I have reviewed the articles and have not found clear direction. - Gary 12/3/12

Reply:

Gary,

For a pump problem to explain what you describe I'd expect the water tank to have no water in it at all, or to be almost completely waterlogged, having no air charge at all. Otherwise the water tank would keep pressure flowing across pump turning on and off. So I don't suspect a water pressure tank problem.

If the water pressure tank is completely waterlogged, then it is not going to keep ANY water flowing on its own. In that case, as soon as you turn water on the pump comes on as well and runs almost constantly (depending on water usage rate); it may be that your pressure tank is almost completely waterlogged, so when the pump stops (though just briefly as the tank has so little air charge), water flow also stops.

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