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Water Pump Repairs: How to Diagnose & Fix Lost Well Water Pressure + Water Pump & Tank Repair Cost Estimates InspectAPedia®  -     How to diagnose loss of water pressure or loss of water in a building How to decide if water pump replacement is needed How to decide if water tank replacement is necessary Typical cost of various well, pump, and water tank repairs. How to diagnose a well pump that stops working, lost prime, noises, lost pressure, intermittent pump running, pump won't start, pump won't stop, pump turns on and off too rapidly, and all other well water pump problems Questions & answers about diagnosing & fixing poor or totally lost well water pressure, including pump and tank repair repair costs

This article series describes how to diagnose and repair all types of well water pump problems and includes questions and answers from and to homeowners who lost well water pressure. If you don't see information you want, ask us for it using the comments box on this page.

For a jumpstart on diagnosing water pressure problems see our WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE. Also see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR and WATER PUMPS, TANKS, TESTS, WELLS, REPAIRS for in depth guides to diagnosing and fixing bad water pressure or total loss of water pressure.

Procedure for Diagnosing and Fixing Bad Water Pressure, Includes Costs

The basics process of diagnosis and the costs of the repair are explained. Consumer advice on saving money on well repair costs includes a review of the parts and labor costs of a typical well pump and pressure tank replacement case. If your water supply is from a city or municipal water system, see MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS.

• Bad or No well water pressure? See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR for a step by step detailed guide to diagnosing and correcting bad water pressure or total loss of water pressure. Before changing a water pump or control, we need to know why the water pressure or water flow is poor. Also see our separate WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE in summary table form.
• Intermittent well water pump cycling is discussed at Intermittent Water Pump Cycling When No Water is Running - this means that the water pump comes on for no apparent reason.
• Short cycling of a well water pump means that the water pump turns on and off too rapidly or too frequently when water is being run in the building. See What Causes 'Water Pump Short Cycling' and Water Tank Repairs: Diagnose 'Water Pump Short Cycling'.
• Loss of well water pressure means that the pressure with which water enters a plumbing fixture has become too slow, or is sometimes too slow or weak in water flow rate, or water flow may stop entirely. See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR where we describe Water Pump Problems? How to Diagnose & Repair Poor or No Water Pressure. Also see SHORT CYCLING CAUSE: WELL PIPE LEAKS.
• Details on how to repair the well water pump pressure control switch are discussed at How to Repair the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch The illustration at page top is courtesy of Carson Dunlop, Inc. in Toronto.
• How to boost well water pressure in a building by installing a pressure booster pump and pressure tank is discussed in detail at WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP

If the building water supply stops and takes minutes to hours to recover, you may have problem with the well flow rate. But the problem of lost water supply and pressure could be more mechanical: a bad well pump.

The well pump, in turn, could have been damaged or hastened to the end of its life by a bad water pressure tank which has caused well pump short-cycling. Short cycling of the pump motor can burn up the pump relay control.

Readers should also see Water pipe clog diagnosis and Water pipe clog repair guide. Also see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR in a building and see MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS or WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS where we describe the effects of clogged piping on water flow and offer remedies for this problem. If only hot water pressure and flow are poor, also see CLOGGED SUPPLY PIPES, HOT WATER.

Readers of this document should also see Water pressure tanks - how to diagnose the need for air, how to add air, stop water pump short cycling to avoid damage - water storage water pressure tank safety. The illustration at left is courtesy of Carson Dunlop, Inc. in Toronto.

© Copyright 2012 InspectAPedia.com, All Rights Reserved. Information Accuracy & Bias Pledge is at below-left. Use page top links to major topics or use links at the left of each page to navigate within topics and documents at this website. Green links show where you are in a document series or at this website.

Loss of Well Water Pressure or Poor Water Supply - Diagnosis & Repair Guide

Questions about well repairs from a homeowner who lost water pressure and supply

The following is an actual case of a correspondent who lost water pressure and called a well and plumbing contractor who made several repairs. At the end of the repair water pressure and supply were restored but the owner had a bit of "sticker shock" when he saw the bill. He wrote to ask our opinion. Our reply, which follows the owner's note below, reviews the diagnosis, repair, and repair costs for this well pump and water tank replacement project.

We have a private well with the same components shown on your diagram (well pump, pressure tank, pressure switch etc..) We recently experienced loss of water pressure and actually a lack of any water flow at all from our faucets in our house. As we waited 30 min to 1 hr, the water would return and run normal for several hours, only to return to no water again. This went on for about 24 hours.

We contacted the well contractor shown on our well cap. He quickly determine the bladder in the pressure tank was ruptured by just shaking the water tank.

After installing a new $600 dollar tank, the well contractor waited for the water pump to come on. It didn't. Then the contractor sold us a new well pump.

The total bill: $2000 and some change.

1. Is this a fair price for repair of a water pressure tank or pump or both? Did the contractor make the right repair? Was we overcharged?

2. Can we check his prognosis by inspecting the replaced tank and pump?

-- This question is answered in detail at Right Repair to Pump & Tank?

A Guide to Building Water Pressure by Adjusting or Repairing the Water Pump Pressure Control Switch or the Water Pressure Tank

How to Adjust Water Pump Pressure: The detailed, step by step procedure for inspecting and adjusting the water pressure control switch is discussed in detail at WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT.

Two good starting points for diagnoising all building water pressure problems are

WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

• Diagnosing Water Pump Short Cycling on and off: If your water pump is clicking on and off too often or quite rapidly see SHORT CYCLING.
• Diagnosing Water Pressure Drops without explanation when the pump stops, see Water Pressure Falls Slowly, Erratic Pumping: bad pressure control switch, building water running or leak, bad pressure gauge, bad check valve, bad foot valve.
• Diagnosing & Repairing Poor or Lost Water Pressure and Flow: we still have water flowing but pressure and flow quantity are reduced. See WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
• Diagnosing & Repairing Lost Air in the Water Tank: The problem of lost air in the water pressure tank along with how to correct that condition are discussed beginning at SIGNS OF AIR LOSS. Also see WATER TANK AIR, HOW TO ADD followed by WATER TANK BLADDERS & CAPTIVE AIR and WATER TANK BLADDER PRESSURE ADJUSTMENT
• Diagnosing & Repairing a Water Pressure Control or Water Pump Control Switch: We discuss diagnosing and repairing a water pressure control switch that sticks "on" or "off" or simply won't operate, at water pump Pressure Switch Repairs.
• How to boost water pressure in a building by installing a pressure booster pump and pressure tank is discussed in detail at WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP

How might a bad water pressure tank be related to water pressure or water supply loss symptoms

• A bad or defective water pressure tank or water tank bladder can cause well pump short cycling which in turn is hard on the pump (damages the pump) and, especially with an older pump, might push it over the edge of failure. When the water pump fails the building will lose water supply completely (unless it is served by an artesian well).
• A water pump might be at end of its life and about to burn up but still work after a cool-down cycle (some pumps have a thermal overload that shuts them off and an automatic reset - especially one that is inaccessible such as a submersible). In this case water pressure and supply will return after the cool-down problem but the failure is likely to be recurrent.
• To review loss of air charge, water pump short cycling, water pump pressure control settings, and other water tank repairs be sure to see WATER PUMP & WATER TANK REPAIRS
• Also see
    WATER TANK AIR VOLUME CONTROLS
    WATER TANK AIR INLET VALVE
    WATER TANK AIR VALVE REPAIRS
    WATER TANK PRESSURE GAUGE
    WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY
    WATER TANK DRAIN VALVE
    WATER TANK RELIEF VALVE

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about Well Water Pump and Tank Diagnosis, Repair or Replacement

Question: How to preserve or mothball a submersible well pump for later use

What needs to be done to save a used submersible well pump for later use?

Reply: tips for preserving and storing submersible well pumps:

Jim assuming the pump was previously running and there's no question about the condition of its motor, the minimum is to be sure that the pump is drained of water and stored in a cool dry place.

A more extensive job could include disassembly and inspection/cleaning of the pump impeller assembly to remove any mineral deposits, debris, crud, and to be sure that it is not damaged.

Low water pressure problem advice

Question: My water pressure is really low but we don't know where to start in figuring out what's wrong

My water pressure is low and I barely get any flow when I try to fill the tub. The hot water is still hot through out the house but when you flush the toliet the water almost stops if your using the sink or the shower. Any ideas on what the problem might be or where I can start. - Rachel

Reply: check these water pressure diagnosis articles first

Rachel, we have two articles that give step by step diagnosis of water pressure problems. Please see WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR or for a water pressure troubleshooting guide in table form see our WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE

And don't hesitate to ask if that material leaves you with more specific questions - I'll do my best to help further.

Lost all water pressure problem advice

Question: Lost Water Pressure following an Electrical Power Loss

After a power loss that lasted half a day [my neighbor] ran out of water. When power I was restored the water pressure was only about that of pouring water and would the volume of water rapidly dropped.

I reached down to her water tank and could easily tell it was empty. I connected a water hose to her outdoor spigot, unplugged the pump and allowed the water to fill her tank. The tank only filled about a quarter full. I opened a faucet to try to allow air to leave the system the tank did not fill any further.

The water pressure was at normal flow after I disconnected the hose. The pressure gauge showed a drop from 60 to 40,
with about a minute for recovery to 60. Even though the tank was only a quarter full I thought the problem was resolved only to get a call a few hours later that there was no pressure again. The tank was empty, with no signs of leaking. Water is filling the tank, it is slow and I am not sure what pressure the system might build as before it only filled to a quarter full.

She has what appears to be a submersible well a hundred feet from the well house. A pipe about 8-10 inches in diameter with a cap bolted on, there is wiring on one side of the pipe. In the well house (below grade) she has a blue tank about 18-24 inches
in diameter and a little over four feet tall. A pipe comes through the side of the concrete that tees with the pipe that comes up from the side of the bottom of the tank. Just above the tee is the pressure gauge and then the pressure control switch. On the top of the tank is a plug( and I do have teflon tape if I need to remove it).

I have a few ideas from looking at your website but don't want to screw anything up so I decided I should email and see what you think.

Reply:

We were puzzled too. Sometimes a power loss leads to total pressure loss that leads to disclosing a pre-existing defect like crud inside of a pump impeller, a failing foot valve (loses prime in the well), or a failing pressure control. Also some power outages include an
electrical surge or even a lightning strike that can damage or destroy a pump. But we recommend that you first look for the simplest solution that does not require multiple odd failures to have by chance occurred at once.

Remember that a water pressure tank is never "full" - as it needs to contain an air charge.

First be sure you have an accurate picture of what was happening before the power outage. Then start by reviewing the normal pump sequence operation and comparing it with what's happening at this home.

Follow up from the reader explained that only 120V was being delivered to a 240V submersible pump because one fuse of a pair had blown. -- This question is answered and explained more fully at WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR

Thanks to reader EK Woodard for these details.

Question: Water pressure loss after electrical power outage

Hi,after a power outage that lasted the entire day, I now have no water at all. I'm new to all of this, so please bear with me. Although, thanks to your very informative site I'm learning. I have a single line jet pump and am not sure what the depth of the well is. I tried to reprime with no success, so had a well person check it out. He spent over an hour adding water, turning the pump on and off, gradually bringing the water and pressure back up to the top. Right as he was ready to give up it worked, and water was flowing strong out of the faucet. It didn't last long though, and he said there must be a crack or hole in the piping of the well, which is letting air in.

What I don't understand is I had water before the pwr outage with a supposed cracked or damaged pipe. So since he got the water back up to the top and flowing, why wouldn't it continue and keep the prime since it was before?

He advised that since the well is older (25 years) and the cost to find out what is wrong with it would be $1500 plus the cost of repair, that I would be better off having a new well dug, which is $3800.

I looked into claiming it on my insurance, but was told it had to be caused from a lightning strike, not just a pwr outage. Is it a possibility that whatever is wrong could have been caused by lightning, and if so, how could it be confirmed? - Valora

Reply: check for bad foot valve and replace it; refer to details of well pump priming procedure, check valves, foot valves

Indeed, Valora, a lightning hit can burn up electrical wiring, controls, pumps, and can even damage plumbing pipes. But your description sounds as if there was a loss of prime and difficulty re-priming the pump. If the water system has a bad foot valve (located on the bottom of well piping) and power stays off for some time, you are more likely to lose well prime. The proper repair is to pull the well piping and replace the foot valve.

The reason this problem shows up after a power loss is that even though the foot valve may have been leaking for some time, as long as you had electrical power, when the foot valve leaked the dropping pressure at the water tank caused the pump to turn on by itself, restoring water, pressure in the water tank, and prime before so much water was lost that the pump couldn't recover by itself. But when power was lost for hours, so much water drained back into the well that the well could not re-prime itself when it started again. See WELL PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE and also   WELL PIPING CHECK VALVES and  WELL PIPING FOOT VALVES

Question: water pressure lost and pump turned off, won't come on after we left pump turned off for a few days

Gone from home for a few days turned pump on at fuse box ran 2 minutes then shut off will not come on - Dave

Reply: Sequence of steps to check if the well pump is not turning on.

Dave: re "gone from home for a few days turned pump on at fuse box ran 2 minutes then shut off will not come on"

See WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE for a comprehensive list of things to check when you've lost water pressure, including well pump troubles. By your message alone, and just guessing, as so little information is provided, I'd check things in this order:

1. Make sure that electrical power is being delivered to the pump. Check for live voltage at the control switch and if a separate pump relay is used, check for voltage there too.
2. If there is voltage at the pump controls, look for a pressure switch or relay that has become burned or damaged. If there is a separate pump relay control switch, make sure that its cover, removable "on-off" control that some switches use, or fuses are secure and in place and not burned out.
3. If all of the electrical components have power, but the pump is not turning on, the pump itself could be damaged or the pressure control switch may be clogged and not calling for the pump to turn on. Manually closing the pump pressure control switch should turn the pump on. If not there's an electrical problem to find and fix in wiring or at the pump.

Watch out: for electrocution hazards when checking electrical wiring and devices. If you lack training and equipment have those checkes made by a professional.

Watch out: often when a pump is turned OFF for a few days we discover a pre-existing problem that had been covered-up, namely a bad foot valve or check valve that allows water to slowly leak out of the pressure tank and back into the well.

As long as the pump power is turned on, when the leak causes pressure to drop below the cut-in point the pump cycles on and repressurizes the water system and so the pump never loses prime.

But when power to the well pump is left off long enough, a slow leak can lose all of the water above ground (back into the well) and you lose prime.

So that's where I'd start looking.

Question: We lost all water pressure in the middle of a shower. We turned up the pressure switch. Do we need a new well pump?

I have a well, and this morning was taking a shower when we lost all water pressure in the middle of the shower. There was no water running in the rest of the house, so no pressure was being taken from the shower.. this had never happened. In the past, when you ran water, flushed the toilet or took a shower at the same time the water pressure went down.

We turned up the pressure coming into the house on the water tank to try to "fix" the situation. I'm worried we may need a new pump. Any suggestions in which way to turn? - Amy

Reply: when water pressure is lost do not just turn up the pump pressure switch. First diagnose the problem.

Amy, with no other information but that in your message it sounds as if there may be trouble with the well itself (running out of water), the well pump, or the pump controls.

Watch out: Don't just turn up the pump pressure control switch settings if your system has lost water pressure. Turning up pressure at the pressure control switch will not fix having run out of water and it can make the problem worse. For example, if you set the cut-off pressure higher than the pump can achieve then the pump motor may just keep running on until it burns up.

It is more important to first figure out why you lost water pressure. When the cause is diagnosed we'll know the proper repair needed.

Take a look at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE as a starting point for figuring out what's wrong by looking a bit further into more clues. Let me know what you find or what specific questions arise and we'll be glad to research and comment further.

Question: Water pressure switch set to 50/70 cut-in/cut-out for house and irrigation system. Now water pressure drops down to 10 psi. What's wrong?

I have an issue with my well. I have my pressure switch set to cut in at 50psi and cut out at 70psi. Its been this way for years. I run my house and an irrigation system and in the past never had a problem. The last I knew my well recovery was more than 16gpm. I have a lot of iron an have two filtration systems, one for the domestic water in the house and one for the irrigation system.

This year I'm having a problem maintaining pressure when the irrigation system is running. In the past the well maintained a constant 50 to 60 psi flow. Now it drops to as little as 10psi. I thought I had a pump and or yield problem. I bypassed all my filters and ran a facet wide open, approx 7gal/min for an hour and a half. Everything performed normally.

The pump kicked in at 50 psi and off at 70 psi. It pumped faster than the depletion rate. Now the puzzeling part. I turned on my irrigation system and about 20 minutes in the pressure dropped below 30psi and would not build back up unless I turned the system off. At the time that I checked the water was metering under .5gal/minute. I'm perplexed. I would assume if the issue was pump or yield related I would have had a problem when I bybassed all the filters. Does anyone have a logical explanation for this. Thank you. - Tony

Reply: Check the water pressure switch mounting pipe nipple or switch pressure sensor port for debris clogging, or replace those parts

Tony from what you've said I wonder if your pressure sensor switch or its mounting tube are clogged with iron deposits? If the pressure control switch cannot accurately and quickly sense changes in pressure at its mounting point the pump behaviour may become erratic or even stop entirely. Try replacing the switch and cleaning or replacing its mounting tubing, and while you're at it look into those openings for evidence of clogging and let me know what you see (or send along a photo).

Question: Leaks found in well piping, now the pump is not working properly. What may be wrong?

My pump is 20+ years old, however it's been working fine. I recently replaced the pressure switch and it began working again. Tis past Saturday I discovered a hole in one pipe and I replaced the galvinised pipe and PVC. Again it worked fine. The next day the pump will not start and the zone selinode was warm for the zone that was to be on. I'm at a loss. - Bernie

Reply: Leaks in well piping lose pressure & can let air and dirt into the system, clogging the controls or damaging the pump

Bernie: hole in the pipe ... was this a buried pipe? I wonder if dirt can have entered the system and plugged the pressure control switch. Try changing the switch and also checking its mounting tube for blockage.

Question:

water does not work how do i test pressure switch - Doug

Reply:

Doug: under the article series titled WATER PUMP REPAIR GUIDE see these articles on installing, diagnosing, and repairing the pump pressure control switch:

  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL SWITCH
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL ADJUSTMENT
  WATER PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPAIR
  PUMP PRESSURE CONTROL REPLACE

Problems with well pumps that won't stop running

Question: The water pump keeps running and won't shut off, what do I do now?

I lose pressure seconds after turning the well water pump off. When the water pump is running it only gets to 25 to 30 psi and stay srunning all the time. The pump never satisfies pressure switch so I turn the pump off to avoid damaging it. Any idea of what I can do? - Arthur

Reply:

Arthur: When a well pump keeps on running - just won't stop on its own, you will want to follow the well pump diagnostic steps at WATER PUMP WONT STOP RUNNING.

The cause of a well pump that keeps on running could be any of a number of problems that we list in the reference I gave above, but because you are also losing water pressure, it sounds as if there may be a loss of water supply in the well itself or a serious leak in the well piping.

Question: The water pump keeps running and I hear water running, I may have damaged the pressure gauge

I have a 285ft well. Sometimes the pump goes on when no water is being used in the house. Tonight, after running the outside sprinklers, the pump kept going on. When I went to check the guage, I could hear water running. All water was off in the house and outside. I turned off the valve which is between the pipe to the well and the bladder tank and the noise stopped.

What could be leaking? I opened the valve up and the running water noise slowly subsided. I also made the mistake of shutting off that valve before I turned of the pump and the pressure gauge went crazy. After turning everything back on the gauge shows the pump shutting off at 80psi and on at just below 60psi. Always went between 40-60. Did I blow the gauge? - Doug

Reply:

Doug: Indeed the sequence of closing the valve between a water pump and the tank and pressure control switch that control that pump turning on and off will make the pump "go crazy" rapidly turning itself on and off - risking pump damage. If you caught it quickly and turned off the pump you're probably OK. But wild gauge pressure oscillations might have damaged the gauge. If the gauge is not behaving normally just replace it. See WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY for details.

See INTERMITTENT CYCLING WATER PUMPS for a procedure to figure out why the well pump goes on when no water is being used in the house.

Question: Problem with loss of pump prime, water pressure drops, supply to house shut off

800 gal reservoir is full to ground level and impeller style pump is on basement floor. I installed a new foot valve in the well. Pump is three yrs. old. Pressure set between 40/50 psi
Tank bladder at 38 psi.
When pressure gauge shows 50 psi and I isolate the house with a gate valve, the pressure gauge drops below 40 psi and the pump starts but 40% of the time it doesn't deliver any water and at this point I need to open a tap near the pump before the water flows again. When I open this tap I hear air for a few seconds before water starts to run from the tap and at this point the pump will start delivering water.
Whats my trouble and your response................. thanks, Shep

Reply: check for a bad foot valve, check valve, well piping leak

Shep:

regarding "the pressure gauge drops below 40 psi and the pump starts but 40% of the time it doesn't deliver any water and at this point I need to open a tap near the pump before the water flows again. When I open this tap I hear air for a few seconds before water starts to run from the tap and at this point the pump will start delivering water. "

and your title, indeed it sounds as if the pump is losing prime. If you're sure the foot valve is good, I'd look for an air or water leak in the piping between the pump and the foot valve bottom.

If I understand correctly, "and I isolate the house with a gate valve" means you are closing the valve feeding the house from the pressure tank - thus making sure no water is being run in the house that might drop down the pressure you see at the pump and tank = correct procedure for this diagnosis.

See the more complete diagnostic checklist for water pressure or flow loss at WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE.

Problems With Water Pressure After Replacing Well Piping

Question: Water pressure problems after replacing the well lines, pump doesn't seem to deliver water

I have a plumbing problem that I cannot seem to solve. I have a shallow well (41 ft. to the water line) with a 1 hp. jet pump with 1 1/4" and 1" black plastic supply lines leading to a jet assembly and a 1 1/4" foot valve but I cannot get the system to draw water from the well continuously. The system was working fine until last winter when the PVC supply lines leading from the pump head to the water pressure tank froze and busted.

So, I replaced the PVC and primed the pump but when I turned it on, it would not draw water from the well. So, thinking that the freeze might have damaged the impellers, I replaced the pump. However, after priming the new pump, it would not draw water from the well either. So, I then pulled the supply lines out of the well and replaced the jet assembly (which was badly corroded) and the foot valve as well.

Now, when I prime the system, close the pressure regulator valve, turn the pump on, wait for the pressure to come up, and then open the pressure regulator valve a bit, water will exit from the side of the pressure regulator valve and out of the supply line but the volume of the flow fluctuates back and forth from a trickle to a jet for a little while and then suddenly ceases to flow altogether.

In addition, my spotter tells me that he can hear water rising up the pipes until just before it reaches the elbows where the supply lines make the turn from vertical to horizontal and then it suddenly falls back down the pipes. So, could you please tell me what you think the problem is?
Thanks, Bill Bernhardt

Reply: Check for well piping leaks first

Bill,

I don't fully understand the details in your message but I'm wondering from your description of fluctuating pressure if the pump is not picking up water at the foot valve. It sounds as if you're looking for water flow BEFORE the water reaches the pressure tank, right? If not, I'd look for a water logged pressure tank or a tank with a stuck bladder.

From your description I wonder if there is a bad connection made during your well line replacement, possibly leaking water back into the well.

Question: New plastic water line from pump to tank, but now water flow is stopped and water pressure lost

I have a 60' water well which I am sure has water due to the rain. I installed a new 1" x 20' plastic water line from the pump to the bladder tank. When I started it back up the water flows out of the spigots for approximately 1 minute and then stops flowing. The pump is still trying to build but takes a while. If I shut the spigots off and let the pump build it eventually builds back up. How do I trouble shoot this?

By the way I have a submersible pump. When checking water I have an outlet prior to the bladder tank and the same thing happens. - Gary

Reply:

Gary if you are sure the pump itself is OK I'd start looking for a well piping leak.
Turn off water into the building at the end of a pump cycle and watch the pressure gauge. If pressure drops there is probably a piping leak or a bad foot valve or check valve. Also be sure that the water pump itself is undamaged and working properly.

Follow-Up: improper pump electrical wiring connections can cause well water pump to lose power

Everything is fixed now but I wanted to share my experience which caused me to replace a steel 1" water line with a plastic 1" line. That's only the beginning. I replaced that plastic line as I thought I had a kink in it. After each of these changes disappointment set in as nothing changed the results of 30 secs of water and then nothing for 5 minutes or so. Next was the pressure switch and all new piping from the pressure tank.

Next was pulling the 65' deep pump and changing it out. Pump went back down in and I was certain things would be looking up. Disappointment...disappointment....frustration on and on. I'll prep you here a little. Early on like a couple of weeks ago when I replaced the line the first time I disconnected the pump connections and since this is a lake house fromt he mid 60's the wiring is not up to my type of wiring although it is sound.

Anyway the 3 wire connection was marked with colored tape so I could get back to the correct hook up. I made an assumption that one of the wires was the ground since later it was untaped the first time that it was a ground wire. When I replace the line the first time and re-connected it I must have gotten the wiring backwards by using the ground as one of the voltage legs. Yes......I have done all of this work taking 2 weekends because I had the wiring wrong. On a good note I have learned and I have shared this experience.......Look at the wiring if the pump turns on and shuts off. Thanks Dan for your attempt to help. It is much appreciated.
Gary

Comment:

Gary, thanks so much for the follow-up on your loss of water pressure diagnosis and repair process. We learn an important diagnostic clue from your description: a well pump might be improperly wired electrically but still "run" only it may not run normally and its power may be cut and thus water pressure may be low to nil.

Ruling out piping leaks and pressure switch problems helps focus in on another item to check out: the pump wiring connections. A similar problem can occur in older fused wiring systems - the fuse on one leg of the 240V circuit can blow, leaving the other side hot or live. A too-quick check for electrical power can miss that problem.

Problems With Water Pressure Following Water Pressure Tank Replacement or Relocation

Question: We relocated our water pressure tank and now can't get any water - what's wrong?

We moved our fresh water tank at the cabin from our driveway above the cabin to under the cabin. The pump has always been located under the cabin. Now the tank sits a few feet below pump level and we cannot get water to the cabin. The tank water level is slightly below the pump. - Pat

Reply: Provided the water pressure tank is not too high above your jet pump the problem is not moving the tank it's more likely a plumbing mistake or pump/pump control problem.

Pat: even a one line jet pump can lift water about 25 feet. So I suspect your pump needs replacement. If that's not the problem then it's lost prime or there is another issue.

Question: Water pressure at shower drops and water temperature varies just after we replaced our bladderless steel water tank with an internal-bladder model

I just replaced my old style steel cold water tank with a pressurized tank. I have a 40-60 jet pump that worked fine with the old tank. Now, when the I turn on the water at the shower, when the pump gets to 40 psi, the pressure drops way off and the water temperature oscillates between hot and cold. The system did not do this before I put in the pressurized tank. - Mike Barber

Reply: Things to check when water pressure behavior is odd following water tank replacement

Mike, This is an tough water pressure diagnosis question for which I have to guess at some things that are worth investigating further, as I'm not sure exactly what's wrong.

Check the operating pressure cycle of the pump and tank system by running water while watching the pump, tank, and pressure gauge.

Note the gauge pressure at which the pump cuts in and out. Typically the range is 20/40 or 30/50 cut in and cut out.

Assuming your pump pressure control switch is set (factory) to 20/40, if the the pressure gauge reads 40 just when the pump cuts OFF then the pressure, switch, and system look normal - so far. (If you run water too fast at a nearby fixture the pump may never reach its cut-off pressure, in which case once the pump is running then turn off the water running in the house so we can see the cutoff pressure).

Watch out: debris or other problems can lead a water pressure gauge to give inaccurate water pressure readings. Try tapping gently on the gauge if it is not responding to the pump turning on and off, and see WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY for details.

If the pump cuts off at 40 as above and the gauge reads 40, you should have a fully pressurized water pressure tank with a normal dose of water in the tank. You can confirm this in part by gently rocking the water tank - it should be heavy and not move easily. Don't push around so much as to move pipes and start a leak.

Now turn ono water at the shower. If you do NOT have good water pressure and flow, then I suspect that there is a blockage somewhere in the system. Check pressure and flow at other fixtures. If ALL plumbing fixtures have poor flow, then the blockage is at or close to the water pressure tank.

Some pressure tank bladders can sometimes stick or collapse or tear, interfering with water pressure leaving the tank. Under the conditions above, if the pressure in the house is poor at pump cut off I suspect that may be the problem and some tank diagnosis, a tank installation problem, or a tank bladder defect are worth pursuing. A Minnesota plumber told me they sometimes free up a stuck tank bladder by briefly holding the pressure switch down to force tank pressure 10-20 psi above normal

Watch out: excessive water tank pressure beyond its deign pressure can burst the tank and injure someone. This is particularly true if no one installed the necessary pressure relief valve at the water pressure tank. See WATER TANK RELIEF VALVE

If the water pressure drop is just at the shower I suspect debris blocking at the shower head or piping.

The fluctuating "hot and cold" temperature is another important clue to consider.To me that suggests that cold water flow in the whole system has at that point become intermittent but not through the entire system.

By that I mean if pressure leavinvg the water tank were itnermittent then because cold water is flowing BOTH to the hot water tank (where it pushes hot water out to the plumbing fixture) AND to the cold water deliver lines in the home, THEN both hot and cold pressure would fluctuate together (I'd think), so the water pressure would vary at the shower but the temp would vary less as hot and cold are both flowing through the whole system at same rate.

The implication of the case you describe (temperature varies significantly at the shower) implies to me that cold water is being blocked somewhere else than right at the water tank - because you're seeing more cold flow blockage than hot flow blockage.

Another reader found a solution to this problem at a debris block in a piping elbow in a cold water line.

Finally, if your pump pressure control switch is not behaving properly, say not turning on the pump at the CUT IN when it should, I suspect that there may be debris blocking at the pressure control switch. Sometimes changing out a water pressure tank can stir up debris in the whole water supply system, exacerbating a problem with the pump pressure control switch or piping.

This problem is more likely if the water supply suffers from clay or silt or other debris or if the building piping includes rusty iron pipes. A solution is to check and perhaps replace both the pressure control switch and the small diameter pipe nipple that mounts the switch body to the building water piping or pressure tank.

Please look into these possibilities and let me know what you're finding - what you learn will help other readers. And I'll think about and research this question further and add what else I can come up with.

Reader Follow-up from Michael Barber

I finally have gotten the time to get back to my water pressure problem. I replaced the old style steel tank with a "bladder" tank.

My pump is a 40/60. I opened the drain line (I added this to the main cold water line going into the house so I could run the water from under the house where the pump and water tank are) and have set the pump pressure switch so that it shuts off at precisely 60 psi and starts at 40 psi.

With the water line open the pump turns on right at 40 psi, then the pressure drops rapidly to about 20 psi and then slowly drops to between 8 and 12 psi where it stays until I close the water line. I set the tank pressure at 38 psi with the pump off after having drained the line.

When I use the shower, or any other faucet for that mater, the pressure is great for the first 3 to 3.5 mins but then drops off significantly and only partially returns to full pressure (consistent with what I see on the gauge under the house).

The problem I am having is that the water pressure did not act like this prior to replacing the tank.

Is this normal for these types of tanks? If so, should I just have my old tank welded up a reinstall it? I posted this on the site a few days ago but haven't had a response. At least that I could find. Thanks, - mike barber

Reply:

Thank you for the added details. Below I offer some diagnostic suggestions and comments:

Steady state water pressure at maximum flow rate:

It is normal for the water system pressure to remain at a much lower number (8-12 psi in your case) than the pump pressure control switch cut-off number (60 psi) when you are running a faucet and pipe wide open; The pressure you are seeing is the steady-state water pressure that the pump is capable of delivering continuously - a function of the pump horsepower, total lift, pipe lengths, diameter, bends, and other obstructions.

Steady state water pressure at single fixture flow rate:

When you do not have any other plumbing faucet wide open but are running a single fixture such as a shower or sink, and when you report good pressure for the first three minutes, most likely that pressure is being delivered by the water pressure tank that is starting at 60 psi and falls to 40 psi when the pump then turns on.

After that point we have exhausted the stored energy/pressure in the water pressure tank. Thence the water pressure we see in the system is strictly the pressure capability of the pump and piping properties I outlined just above.

Improving steady state water flow rate & pressure:

When the single fixture (or for that matter even multiple fixture) water flow rate is inadequate there are some things to check to fix the trouble. If the poor water system steady state flow rate/pressure has been present since installation or for a long time or developed slowly over months or years, we suspect limitations due to

• a weak well pump or an electrical problem not delivering full voltage to the pump
• poor water flow rate into the well (the pump doesn't have more water to deliver and is also protected from running dry by a low water flow rate device in the well)
• clogged piping or excessive bends, length of piping, or small diameter piping
• a clogged water filter
• other problems such as an increasing leak rate in well piping between well and building

see WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE linked-to in the article above for a more complete list of diagnostic suggestions

When a poor water flow rate and pressure problem has developed suddenly we suspect:

• a damaged well pump or electrical wiring not delivering full voltage
• a control valve partly closed in the main supply piping system
• a solder blob or other similar blockage in newly installed piping
• stirred debris that has clogged a water filter or a stop valve in the piping system
• some other problem listed in the table given by the link above

Keep in touch - what you find will help other readers. - Daniel

Questions & Answers regarding this article

Questions & answers about diagnosing & fixing poor or totally lost well water pressure, including pump and tank repair repair costs.

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WATER PRESSURE REPAIR GUIDE - WELLS
  Questions about lost water pressure
  Advice to a homeowner
  Adjusting Water Pump Pressure Control
  Right Repair to Pump & Tank?
  Well Pump & Tank Replacement Costs
  Reliability of Pump & Tank Repairs
  WATER PUMP PRIMING PROCEDURE

WATER PRESSURE & FLOW MEASUREMENT
  WATER PRESSURE VARIATION CAUSES
  WATER PRESSURE TOO HIGH: DANGERS
  Definition of Static Water Pressure
  Definition of Dynamic Water Pressure
  Measure Municipal Water Pressure
  Measure Pump & Well Water Pressure
  WATER FLOW RATE MEASUREMENT
  HOT WATER PRESSURE EXPANSION RATE

WATER PRESSURE GAUGE ACCURACY
WATER PRESSURE LOSS DIAGNOSIS & REPAIR
WATER PRESSURE PROBLEM DIAGNOSIS TABLE
  AIR DISCHARGE at FAUCETS, FIXTURES
  MUNICIPAL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
  WELL WATER PRESSURE DIAGNOSIS
  WATER FILTERS
  Water Pressure Intermittent
  No Water Pressure
  Well Tank relation to Water Pressure
  Shaking the Water Tank?
  Water Pressure Bad at Some Fixtures
  Water Pressure Falls Slowly, Erratic Pumping
  Water Pressure Intermittent
  Water Pressure Tank Problems
  Water Pressure Tank Diagnosis
  Water pressure Later Returns "on its own"
  Water pipe clog diagnosis
  Water pipe clog repair guide
  WELL PIPING LEAK DIAGNOSIS
  Making the "right" repair
  WATER PRESSURE BOOSTER PUMP
  Typical Water Tank & Pump Prices

• Thanks to reader EK Woodard, Boise State University, Boise ID, for assistance in diagnosing poor water pressure following an electrical power loss.
• Pumptrol® Pressure Switch Adjustment, Square D, Schneider Electric Corporation, 8001 Knightdale Blvd., Knightdale< NC 27545 1-888-778-2733 - Square D Technical Library, web search 07/24/2010 original source: http://ecatalog.squared.com/techlib/docdetail.cfm?oid=09008926800a93be
• 9013 Pumptrol® Commercial Pressure Switches Type F and 9013 Commercial Pressure Switches Type G, Catalog, SquareD, Schneider Electric Industries SAS, Schneider Electric Industries SAS, web search 02/23/2011, original source: http://ecatalog.squared.com/pubs/Machine Control/
  Pressure-Float-Vacuum Switches/Pressure Switches-Water and Air/9013CT9701.pdf
  Square D is a brand of Schneider Electric.
• Class 9013 Square D Commercial Pressure Switches: Water Pump Pressure Control Switch Class 9013, Type F, G, Manual, Square D Company, 8001 Highway 64 East, Knightdale, NC 27545-9023, USA, (919) 266-3671, www.squared.com, web search 02/24/2011, original source: stevenengineering.com/tech_support/PDFs/45COM.pdf. Quoting:
  
  The Type FSG, FYG, FRG - PUMPTROL® Water Pump Pressure Switches are used to control Water Pump Pressure Switches are used to control
  electrically driven water pumps and have the following features:
  • The Type FSG is the standard water pump switch, suitable for all types of pumps: jets, submersible,
    reciprocating, etc.
  • The Type FYG is designed to meet higher horsepower and pressure requirements.
  • The Type FRG is reverse acting: the contacts open on falling pressure.
    All are diaphragm actuated.
    
  
  The Type G - PUMPTROL® Commercial/Light Industrial Pressure Switch is used to control electrically driven water pumps and air compressors. It has higher electrical ratings for direct control of motors in pump and compressor applications. The Type G switch is diaphragm actuated and has contacts that open on rising pressure.
  

Water Supply & Drain Piping, Wells, Pumps, Water Supply Equipment

• Access Water Energy, PO Box 2061, Moorabbin, VIC 3189, Australia, Tel: 1300 797 758, email: sales@accesswater.com.au Moorabbin Office: Kingston Trade Centre, 100 Cochranes Rd, Moorabbin, VIC 3189
  Australian supplier of: Greywater systems, Solar power to grid packages, Edwards solar systems, Vulcan compact solar systems, water & solar system pumps & controls, and a wide rage of above ground & under ground water storage tanks: concrete, steel, plastic, modular, and bladder storage tanks.
• Cheating on water tests: Testing Water for Real Estate Transactions - make sure your water test is valid
• Diagnosing Clogged Drains: Is it a blocked drain or the septic system? - A First Step for Homeowners
• Drinking Water Contaminant Levels - Maximum Allowed
• Drinking Water Supply, Contamination Levels, Water Testing Procedures
• Drinking Water Testing Advice for home buyers home owners home inspectors
• Interpreting Drinking Water Test Results and Correcting Unsatisfactory Water
• Lead Contamination in Drinking Water: Testing & Correction - Advice (This Article)
• Lead Testing & Correcting Contamination from Lead Water Supply Lines/Entry Mains - Lead Pipe Problems/Advice
• Life Expectancy of Water Pumps - Well Pumps: how long should a water pump last? What affects pump life?
• Life Expectancy of Wells & Water Tanks how long should a water well and its components last?
• Plumbing Diagnosis & Repair: Water supply, drainage, septic systems, water testing, water contamination, defective plumbing materials & products.
• Shock or Chlorinate a Well, How to - Procedure for Shocking a Well to (temporarily or maybe longer) "Correct" Bacterial Contamination
• Smart Tank, Installation Instructions [ copy on file as /water/Smart_Tank_Flexcon.pdf ] - , Flexcon Industries, 300 Pond St., Randolph MA 02368, www.flexconind.com, Tel: 800-527-0030 - web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://www.flexconind.com/pdf/st_install.pdf
• Typical Shallow Well One Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect_Jet_Pumps_1.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
• Typical Deep Well Two Line Jet Pump Installation [ copy on file as /water/Jet_Pump_Grove_Elect.pdf ] - , Grove Electric, G&G Electric & Plumbing, 1900 NE 78th St., Suite 101, Vancouver WA 98665 www.grovelectric.com - web search -7/15/2010 original source: http://www.groverelectric.com/howto/38_Typical%20Jet%20Pump%20Installation.pdf
• Water Fact Sheet #3, Using Low-Yielding Wells [ copy on file as /water/Low_Yield_Wells_Penn_State.pdf ] - , Penn State College of Agricultural Sciences, Cooperative Extension, School of Forest Resources, web search 07/24/2010, original source: http://pubs.cas.psu.edu/FreePubs/pdfs/XH0002.pdf
• Water pressure tanks - how to diagnose the need for air, how to add air, stop water pump short cycling to avoid damage - water storage water pressure tank safety.
• Water pump and pressure tank repair diagnosis & cost an specific case offers an example of diagnosis of loss of water pressure, loss of water, and analyzes the actual repair cost
• Water pressure tank failures & water pump short cycling diagnosis and repair
• Water Supply & Drain Piping, water and drain pipe types, inspection, diagnosis, repairs, problem materials, clogging, etc.
• Water Tests & Fees this water test fee schedule applies when testing is combined with other onsite building inspection services
• Water Testing: background comments on classes of water contaminants, & links to home buyer advice about water testing, drinking water, water supply
• Water Requirements, Home & Outdoor Living

Books & Articles on Building & Environmental Inspection, Testing, Diagnosis, & Repair

• Our recommended books about building & mechanical systems design, inspection, problem diagnosis, and repair, and about indoor environment and IAQ testing, diagnosis, and cleanup are at the InspectAPedia Bookstore. Also see our Book Reviews - InspectAPedia.

The Home Reference Book - the Encyclopedia of Homes, Carson Dunlop & Associates, Toronto, Ontario, 2010, $69.00 U.S., is available from Carson Dunlop, and from the InspectAPedia bookstore. The 2010 edition of the Home Reference Book is a bound volume of more than 450 illustrated pages that assist home inspectors and home owners in the inspection and detection of problems on buildings. The text is intended as a reference guide to help building owners operate and maintain their home effectively. InspectAPedia.com ® author/editor Daniel Friedman is a contributing author. Field inspection worksheets are included at the back of the volume.

• Crystal Clear Supply provides portable ceramic water filter purifiers and portable reverse osmosis water treatment equipment - see http://www.crystalclearsupply.com/category_s/7.htm
• Handbook of Disinfectants and Antiseptics, Joseph M. Ascenzi (Editor), CRC, 1995, ISBN-10: 0824795245 ISBN-13: 978-0824795245 "The evaluation of chemical germicides predates the golden age of microbiology..." -
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• Principles and Practice of Disinfection, Preservation and Sterilization (Hardcover)
  by A. D. Russell (Editor), W. B. Hugo (Editor), G. A. J. Ayliffe (Editor), Blackwell Science, 2004. ISBN-10: 1405101997, ISBN-13: 978-1405101998.
  "This superb book is the best of its kind available and one that will undoubtedly be useful, if not essential, to workers in a variety of industries. Thirty-one distinguished specialists deal comprehensively with the subject matter indicated by the title ... The book is produced with care, is very readable with useful selected references at the end of each chapter and an excellent index. It is an essential source book for everyone interested in this field. For pharmacy undergraduates, it will complement the excellent text on pharmaceutical microbiology by two of the present editors."
  The Pharmaceutical Journal: "This is an excellent book. It deals comprehensively and authoritatively with its subject with contributions from 31 distinguished specialists. There is a great deal to interest all those involved in hospital infection ... This book is exceptionally well laid out. There are well chosen references for each chapter and an excellent index. It is highly recommended." The Journal of Hospital Infection.: "The editors and authors must be congratulated for this excellent treatise on nonantibiotic antimicrobial measures in hospitals and industry ... The publication is highly recommended to hospital and research personnel, especially to clinical microbiologists, infection-control and environmental-safety specialists, pharmacists, and dieticians."
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• U.S. Army Field Manual 21-10, Field Hygiene and Sanitation, 1988, web search 07/02/2010, original source: http://www.enlisted.info/field-manuals/fm-21-10-field-hygiene-and-sanitation.shtml
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• When Technology Fails, Matthew Stein, Chelsea Green Publisher, 2008,493 pages. ISBN-10: 1933392452 ISBN-13: 978-1933392455, "... how to find and sterilize water in the face of utility failure, as well as practical information for dealing with water-quality issues even when the public tap water is still flowing". Mr. Stein's website is www.whentechfails.com/
• ...